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But if there is no side play in the pump shaft, and no sign of leakage from the weep hole; then the leakage you noticed may well have come from seepage at the water pump gasket; which is a cosmetic issue only, and which seems to be common on this motor. Toyota dealerships love to tell people that their water pump needs replacement; and "prove" that by showing them the pink stain alongside the water pump, which came from minor gasket seepage; and which usually does not even result in loss of measurable quantities of coolant.
The simplest way to inspect the pump is from above, using a bright flashlight and an inspection mirror. The cosmetic stains which come from the gasket can be easily seen alongside the pump when looking from above, and don't require using any tools or mirrors.
1- 120 K miles seems a bit too long , anyone changed earlier ? anybody waited till 120K and tranny is still functioning fine ?
2- My manual warns about using any other oil but genuine Toyota ATF WS . At this point I am very hesitant to introduce a different ATF since there will be remaining old oil left in torque converter and/or cooling lines . What is the best "DIY procedure" to drain most of the ATF ? can I start the engine few seconds " in Parking" to drain further ?
3-Did anyone use an off-the -shelf (non-Toyota) ATF and tranny is running just fine ?
Thanks for your help in advance .
I'm thinking there's so little actual friction between opposing parts that there are very few impurities being introduced to the fluid, so it's probably not critical to put new stuff in.
Personally, I'd wait. (That's what I'm doing with ours; it has 150,000 kliks ......about 90k miles on it.....and still running fine.......that is, no worse than ever. :-)) Ooops, did I say that out loud?
I'd be curious to see (by a show of hands) what percentage of you have done the engine control module swap out for crappy shifting (you know....TSB # whatever/whatever.....) vs the percentage who haven't.
Anyone! Anyone?
How'd you beat it?
Thanks,
Mike
I started hearing squeaking noise around the Serp Belt Tensioner a week ago. I hear it during idling and louder when A/C is on. I took it to my local mechanic. This guy is very good and he is a certified Lexus mechanic.
He told me that the Serp Belt is the problem. He changed it, but squeaking noise still continued. The mechanic then told me that we need to change the Serp tensioner itself. I changed that too. Still the noise didnt go. He told me to change the Tensioner Pulley. I changed too, but the noise is still there.
I have already spent around $600 and I have the same issue as it was there before. Mechanic at some point said he is not able to figure out what the issue is.
I browsed online and could see some complain that it could be water pump or alternator. I dont want spend any more money on getting a new spare part until I know that is the problem. Please advise what should I do next? Do you recommend me to take it to a Toyota dealership? I know that would be costly again for me. But if there is nothing else I can do, I can do it. It is very annoying that even after spending so much, the issue is still not fixed.
regards
Harry
Thanks
Craig
Try the pennzoil ultra. I think of all the oils that I tried it is the best in terms of the noise produced by the valves.
Tony
I took my car back to FutureShop and they had another run at installing my speakers properly.
This time, although I wasn't there to see, based on what I saw in the trunk when I got the car back, I'd say they must have removed the trunk-lid torsion bar and bent it in a vise; it had a distinct "kink" in it which allowed it to take a "detour" around the speaker magnets.
The bend they put in made it possible for them to drop the speakers all the way down......flush with the rear deck......where they HAVE to be to produce proper base response.
Let me know if you need pics and I'll arrange to send you a couple.
Mike
I got exactly the same problem to my Camry LE 2007 4 cylinder with 106K miles now, and can't figure out what's up with it. I think is better to keep it like this:)
I would check to see if and where there is such a tube or outlet. The dealer, unless he is very strange, will try to rip u blind on something like this.
In addition, there may be an internal memo on this situation which you can get online. Good luck.
Talk to most dealers about a possible TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) relating to a problem you have and they look at you like you're a spy who just broke their secret code for keeping you in the dark about ACTUAL, documented (by the manufacturer) technical defects on your car.
Keep asking questions (everywhere, including here) before letting your dealer do ANYTHING that'll cost you money.......eventually you'll find the truth........and it'll be cheaper that what the dealer suggests!! Guaranteed!
Another website that u may find helpful is:http://www.alldatadiy.com/TSB/59/075908aH.html. Let me know if you find a solution. My 2007 " road hazard " has not completely fallen apart and I may need some info on this. Good Holiday.
This TSB tells me Toyota was aware of a flaw in these sensors.
What I'm afraid of is they are going to try to hit me with a huge bill after they tell me I need to replace sensors and intake manifold.
I have paper work stating that my MPG is not right but they always told me it was normal and driving habits.
Do you think Toyota will consider the complaints I had in 2007 and 2008 While the car was still under warranty?
Thanks for your insight, chuck
If they're on the ball, they'll know about this TSB (it's been around for several years now). If they're morons.....come back here and someone will provide the exact number of the document for you. (Sorry I don't have it onhand....but the dealer SHOULD!)
Good luck.
Michael
That being said I decided to unplug my battery again to reset the codes. I did this a few day ago and the check engine light would come back on after 20 mins. Tonight I drove it for 45 mins and still no light.
I notice on first start after connecting battery again is was a rough start and had to turn the key twice. Did I clear some bad Gas or something? Is it possible the sensor was stuck in lean position fixed itself? My mechanic not from Toyota told me that when he checked the car he got the 2195 code but said the sensors on Bank 1 were reading good. He didn't reset the codes because he wanted Toyota to be ablle to read them. I'm nervous about taking the car to Toyota and land up with a huge bill$$$.
Well, thanks for taking the time to read this and I always appreciate your advice.
Thank you for any insight you might have.
Thanks chuck
if you have other info please share. The . This info came from Toyota Hot line
Still looking for the best affordable way to replace this sensor. If you have any thought it's always appreciated. chuck
The sensor is probably in or near the exhaust manifold for that bank. It is as easy to change as a spark plug. You'll probably need to buy an oxygen sensor socket; which is a deep socket made with a slot down the side; in order for the sensor cable to fit through the slot; so the socket can be used without cutting the cable for the sensor.
Here's a link to a photo of this sensor: (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1606680)
www.rockauto.com sells a Denso air fuel ratio sensor for this model for $109.99 plus shipping. That is about $100 less than all the other brands of air/fuel ratio sensors they sell for this car; and Denso is the original equipment part manufacturer.
There is some confusion in my mind about the terminology they use: They make 2 different air/fuel ratio sensors for this motor, which both sell for the same price. Denso part #2349050 is listed as "upstream right," while Denso part # 2349041 is listed as "upstream left." Unless you are absolutely certain about the interpretation of these terms; I would phone Rock Auto Customer service at the number listed on the bottom of their website, and make sure to clarify which of those descriptions means Bank 1, on the radiator side.
These parts are listed in their online catalog, in the "emissions" category, under "oxygen sensor." They list oxygen sensors and air/fuel ratio sensors in the same group.
Looking back through the other responses you've received about this issue; it is apparent that some of the people who responded do not understand the difference between an oxygen sensor and an air/fuel ratio sensor. These parts are very different in both construction and price; and one cannot be substituted for the other. So you cannot use a generic oxygen sensor in place of your air/fuel ratio sensor.
I also wanted to add that I have a Rock Auto discount code; which they are happy for me to share with other people. This code will reduce the price of the parts you buy by 5%. To apply it; just enter the number 73659436106501 at checkout, in the box that says "how did you hear about us" Just enter the number; no words or symbols.
I also need to inform you that codes on 1996 and newer vehicles CANNOT be cleared by disconnecting the battery. This only works on pre-1996 vehicles. If you disconnect the battery on a 1996 or newer vehicle; the light will initially go off; but it will come back on in a few miles. The only way to clear codes from your computer is by using a code scanner which has code clearing capabilities. If you clear the code with a scanner (such scanners can be bought for about $50) you might find that the code does not come back, or maybe not.
Toyota has changed there part# per TSB 0114-08 which also includes a modified Exhaust manifold. This can be costly and I'm waiting for a call back from Toyota on Monday to see if they will consider doing this under warrany seeing that it 's a design flaw per TSB and the consumer should'nt have to flip the bill for a manifold because a sensor goes bad.
Another post mentioned about pulling a ECU fuse to reset the codes. Can that work? I hoping not to have to spend the $50 on a scanner though it might come in handy in the future.
Thanks a gain for your help, chuck