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i just want to know if it should be covered by the waranty........thanks tableclocks@hotmail.com
your coments please.....thank you
That being the case, you may want to take it in and get their take on it. If not satisfied you could take it to another dealer under a warranty claim. Note however, that the record of denial of warranty may follow you as most will input it into the GM database.
If the brake didn't release properly and remained in contact with the rotor with enough pressure to cause premature wear of the pads and rotor you will have a repairable warranty claim. You will need to be persistent, but not obnoxius, in showing the evidence by comparing the opposite side rotor as evidence of premature wear.
Good luck!
Thanks in advance.
http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/02/gm_regional_recall.html
February 14, 2006
Owners of General Motors trucks and SUVs in 30 states not covered by the GM regional recall continue to struggle with malfunctioning anti-lock brakes. Owners in the 20 states and the District of Columbia covered by the recall are struggling with GM dealers reluctant to fix the brakes as part of the recall.
Read more: http://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/02/gm_regional_recall.html#ixzz0N8UzD- 3Z6
OTHER good sources..
http://www.absfixer.com/All_about_abs.php
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/august97/service.htm
and
http://www.allpar.com/fix/ABS.html
http://www.popularmechanics.com/how_to_central/automotive/2265091.html
So the mechanic replaced the premium parts with more premium parts?
One wonders what exactly qualifies as premium parts. Also who performed the break in procedure for the brakes?
I have replaced the rear & front rotors, brake pads, and most importantly my rear calipers with aftermarket SSBC three piston. I have also replaced the brake hoses with Russell braided hose kit.
My one question is how long before the brakes started pulsing, and was it within a day of the new brakes being put on the truck or that moment you drove out of the garage?
If the rotors are warped it will pulsate, if the rotors are warping a few miles into the drive, that could indicate that the back brakes are not assisting the stopping..
thus the front calipers and brakes are the only mechanics stopping the vehicle, and over a few stops the brakes are warping/by overheating, and in the summer months the ambient air will not cool the rotors very much increasing the heat retained in the metal.
You could have a damaged ABS controller, or master cylinder, these are less common and not very typical. The GM issues with brakes have been the brake lines rusting out and the rear calipers being just junk, please see my other posts for those items. Search for “ttaupier”
#46 of 162Re: 2001 Silverado 1500 Brake Pulsation [1offroader] by sweetlb
Dealer replaced master cylinder, still had the problem.
Two days after the master cylinder replacement, the truck told me what the problem was, it began to growl in the front end. Wheel bearing was shot....way shot. Prior to that day there was no noise whatsoever, but when I picked the front end off the ground, the left front wheel tipped a couple degrees, at least.
So, all along the wheel bearing was progressively worsening, as a result the wheel speed sensor was being lied to. It is simply a prox. switch, and sometimes it couldn't see what it was looking for, due to play in the bearings.
I changed the bearing assembly myself, mainly because it was a Sunday morning, and on Monday forced the dealer to refund my money for the previous uneeded repairs.
That was three months ago, and brakes have been fine since.
By the way, the wheel bearing assembly, $150.00 or so, comes with a new wheel speed sensor.
Hope all this makes sense, and helps.
Good Luck!
I mean, this is only one site of many and there are 18 pages of the same or similar problems with brakes on chevy trucks.
I live in Tennessee, but my used truck came from NY. I could not tell the rust to just stop even though it is not in a northern state any longer.
I have had three brake line failures in less than a year on my '99 silverado. I have an '88 truck with no brake problems at all and the lines are not rusted.
And one more thing.
I think all Chevy truck/suv/whatever owners should go out right now and crawl under their vehicle and take a look at the brake lines. You may be unpleasantly surprised.
The bad thing about this problem is that the brakes may work fine until need in an emergency situation where hard braking is required. Then the weak rusted lines will not hold the added pressure and the line will fail leaving you with minimal braking or none at all.
I have not heard of this issue, we have 4 GMC pickups in the family and not had this issue, we have had our brakes, and brake line rusting, but not the metric/american issue. You may review some of these threads... #125 of 178Re: Rusted Brake lines, 2003 GMC 50K miles [barnowl3] by ttaupier1, ..........in the : Forums/Pickups/Chevrolet Silverado & GMC Sierra/Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Brake Problems
There are several links and different guys that needed to find the solutions to similar problems (rusty lines). To tell you the truth, I am very surprised this is the first time, we have seen or heard of this, knowing the vehicles are mostly manufactured in a Metric based countrys, and serviced in the USA, ...almost sounds like there was a daily supply issue and someone at the factory came-up with a short time fix... Yikes...
keep us posted..
Important: Use denatured alcohol to clean the outside surface of caliper boot before installing new brake pads.
1.If you are installing new brake pads, use a C-clamp in order to compress the piston to the bottom of the caliper bore. Use the old brake pad, a metal plate or a wooden block across the face of the piston in order to protect the piston and the caliper boot. Important: Use a small flat-bladed tool and lift the inner edge caliper boot next to the piston to release any trapped air.
2.Ensure that the piston boot is below the level of the piston face.
3.Install the brake pad retainers to the caliper bracket. Important: Ensure that the wear sensor is positioned at the leading edge (upward) of the inner pad during forward wheel rotation.
4.Install the brake pads over the brake pad retainers and onto the caliper bracket.
5.Install the tire and wheel assembly.
6.Lower the vehicle.
7.With the engine OFF, gradually apply the brake pedal to approximately 2/3 of it's travel distance.
8.Slowly release the brake pedal.
9.Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps 7-8 until a firm pedal is obtained. This will properly seat the brake caliper pistons and brake pads.
10.Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level with clean brake fluid.
11.Burnish the pads and the rotors.
was unaware that nearly all modern vehicles w/rear disc brakes NEED turned in, like a screw. so i ruined a clamp and the calliper trying to figure it out the special tool purchase is not required in most cases because most auto parts stores offer free tool rentals to promote the sales of auto parts, and the tool they offer is usually better than the one most people are willing purchase due to expense probably in the upwards of $50. there is a cheap tool option 3 to 4 bucks kinda looks like a cube w/ a 3/8 ratchet drive hole on each side for a extention to fit to your ratchet. and it has different sized/shaped pegs at the corners of each side to make it more compatible with other vehicles, efficient but difficult to use and i really dont suggest it either but ive used one and it did get the job done.
also check this ..post out.. >> #134 of 182Re: Brake Pad replacement with ABS [Bloozester] by ttaupier1
good luck
New to this blog, but looking for information on replacement of rear brake shoes on my silverado. Apparently GM had gone back to drum brakes, and upon inspection noticed that there is a big sort of u-clamp or u-shape pin going across both brake shoes to hold in place. Any ideas on how to reinstall easily or special tool suggestion. I changed one side and wow what a hard time it was getting the rod back in place.
Thanks
Report your brake line problem to the NHTSA. They just sent me an email to get more info on the problem, so they must be investigating.
i have a 1994 GMC K1500 Z71, 5.7l. Disks on the front, rotors on the back.
First, the brakes have never been great but they should be better then what they are now. I replaced the master cylinder, front brake lines, calipers, pads and rotors. I used slotted rotors & posi-quite pads. I flushed the brake fluid and put back valvoline synthetic dot 3-4. I bleed the brakes per GM's policy, 3 times, and still have soft brakes. I had soft brakes before and thought redoing everything should solve the problem. What am i missing ?