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This is my first time here. My handle, DaSOB comes from my initials, SOB. Yep, fer real! My real name is Sam.
I have a 1998 Ram 1500, and I've begun having a problem with intermittent delivery of warm air. The blend door is working properly. I can pull a vacuum on the control valve and it opens right up. I've checked the system and flushed the core, but the problem persists. I've isolated the apparent problem - no vacuum to the heater control valve. This condition exists whether the temperature selector is in the hot or cold position.
The vacuum system, as far as I can tell, is performing correctly, as is the valve. It appears that the problem is possibly with the control head or the vacuum connection to it. I'm going to go into the dash and pull the control head to check it, probably this weekend.
As I have said, this is an intermittent problem, leading me to think that instead of being a vacuum problem it is a switch problem. Can anyone give me details on what occurs, or should occur, relative to pulling a vacuum on the control valve? Is there a contact or relay somewhere in the line that may be bad?
Thanks, folks!!
Sam
Can you tell me where the valve is located at this point, or shoot a picture of it and email to me. (consultants@phxconsultants.com) I've got a Dodge Ram 1500 Sport (2000) with a problem similar in that the climate control doesn't work at all at this point.
Dennis
The valve is located in the passenger side heater hose. Looks basically like this:
although mine is black plastic. No one, and I mean NO ONE, not even the parts guy at Dodge or some guys I know at a local radiator shop, knows why it is there. I just took it out of the hose and put in a 5/8" splice, and the heater works fine.
HTH!
Sam
I have a 02 2500 with the same problem
Please let me know if you have solved your problem
Thank you~~ fritz
Thanks,
Danny B
I'm sure this is a vacuum problem, but I'm not well acquainted enough with the operation of the system to know what component to look at. Anyone help me on this?
Thanks!!
since replacing core, the heat is very cool, especially if the truck is only idling.
will not even defrost windshield
does better if engine is revved
leads me to think that i have a vacuum problem, but i have checked the lines and they seem to be in good condition
does anyone have experience with these things. help please
thanks
doug
I have 99 ram 1500 5.9L 4x4
be sure you get someone who knows what they are doing so you don't get in the trap i did
i considered doing it myself, and would have done so except for time constraints, and a lack of suitable workspace.
you do have to take out the dash so i'm sure it would be pretty tricky
sorry i can not be of more help
doug
kcram - Pickups Host
Is this under the dash or in the engine compartment?
James
thanks
Regards,
Dusty
thanks
kcram - Pickups Host
Thanks :sick:
Regards,
Dusty
Regards,
Dusty
The blower also started making a fluttering noise - especially on high speeds. That turned out to be a small piece of refuse lodged inside the blower rotor. The blower motor on the 03 model drops out easily. It's on the passenger side under the dash right in front door hinges. Remove 3 straight slot screws on the bottom of the housing and it drops straight down. I imagine the piece of refuse got picked up when the A/C was on recirculate - I should keep the floor picked up better!
Vehicle: 2004 Ram 1500, 4 Door, 5.7L Hemi, manual control A/C
History: in the 2.5 years since purchase, the A/C coming from the vents has been freezing and high volume, cooling the 4 door cabin quickly, even with temps in the high 90s...
Last Wednesday, June 13, wife is driving with 2 passengers, temp is in the mid 80s...suddenly, A/C is blowing cool, but not cold air, and, even on high fan, the air volume seems decreased, like the fan is blowing hard but less air is coming out...
I leave it at the Dodge dealer next day for repair (as an aside, I was given a loaner PT Cruiser that had the COLDEST A/C I have ever experienced in my life...so cold, that I had to turn the knob almost 25% toward heat, as I have never experienced air so cold from an auto A/C that I could not tolerate it...MAKE MY RAM LIKE THIS!!!)
Dealer checks out, says A/C at vent is 43 degrees, checks blend door and says working normal...in other words, there is nothing wrong with the truck...BUT I KNOW SOMETHING AIN'T RIGHT!!!
The following day, I take it to Goodyear, and they tell me that it is possible that the R134a may be just a LITTLE low, but not low enough to trigger a warranty repair from Dodge...since this could be a major variable, it made sense to me, so they evacuated the system and replaced with the exact amount of R134 it calls for...
Now the problem is improved, but it has changed, so maybe you folks have a thought on what to check next...
The air became very cold, but it took almost 20 minutes of running before it became as cold as it used to be...so, the coldness is there, but there was a 20 minute delay, whereas before last week, it would blow cold air within 2-3 minutes...
Is there any other component that would delay the unit from making the air cold, since I am assuming that the R134 level is now correct???
Thanks...if your advice fixes this, I will have one happy wife again...as you know, when she isn't happy, Bob isn't happy...:):):)
I have to thank the board for pointing me in the right direction to stumble across a temporary fix for my problem. I live in Arizona so good AC is important to me. Recently the air flow out of my vents had dropped to nearly none. What was coming out was still cold, the fan was running as normal but there was no real air movement even on full power. I have manual AC controls without dual zones.
The ac control will still change the air flow from floor to vent to defrost as normal but hardly any air was coming out.
From the forum I found this page:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/24-004-03.htm
This page shows a good picture of the Ram AC housing that is located behind the glove box, so I decided to take a look.
I took my glove box out and remove th 8 or so screws hidden by the glove box that appeared to hold the surrounding trim. Once the screws were removed I work from the passenger door side of the trim (I had to pry off the small piece of half oval shaped trim on the side of the dash that covers the join between the lower and upper half of the dashboard)I was able to pry the trim out from the door side enough to reveal the AV housing (you have to disconnect the glove box light), I did not fully remove the trim I just pushed it aside.
Once the AC housing was exposed I put my fingers into the recirculation door (number 6 on the drawing) I could feel what turned out to be my recirculation door, it had broken off and dropped down covering the duct to the air fan restricting the air flow. It was loose in the housing I could move it around. Also I could see where it had broken off from the recirculation door activator.
I had found my problem so I considered my options. The first option was go to the dealer and pay him to remove the entire AC assembly and replace the broken part. The down side here was both the cost, the wait for parts and truck down time. Its already over 110 degrees here so I wasn't keen on waiting. The second option was to fix it myself however I do not have the time or skill to remove the AC housing. So I went with option three, "jury rig" it.
I found that I could move the door around by putting my fingers through the recirculation door, after a wile I managed to turn it sideways and push it up through the inlet baffle (#4 on the drawing) I then let it drop down into the vent that leads to the fan assembly. The fan is located directly under the recirculation door.
The fan assembly is held in by three screws, I manager to remove these screws with a Phillips head screw driver (it turned out that they are torx screws #25). It helps if you remove the closest screw last. Once I had removed the screws the fan assembly dropped out & I could reach into the duct and remove my recirculation door.
I reassembled my truck (a simple reverse of the process of disassembly) without the broken recirculation door (now on a shelf in my garage). I then fired up the truck, I now have lots of cold air. I just lack the ability to switch between outside air and recirculated air but it is a huge improvement. Time taken less than 30 minutes, cost nothing.
Next time I pass a dairy farm, run into a dust storm or find myself behind a diesel belching semi truck I may regret my "repair" but right now I am good with it.
I hope that this helps someone else
Richard
I just found this site and hope someone can help me. I've got a 1999 dodge ram 2500 4x4. It's powered by a 360 CID with auto tranny and a .410 or .411 rear end. The problem I have with it that no one seems to be able to solve is as follows.
The air conditioning works fine except when I'm pulling a trailer or under load. When I depress the accelerator ie to climb a hill, the cold air flow stops blowing from the dash vents. It still blows from the defrost vents and I assume the floor vents. When I back off on the accelerator the cold air flow returns to the dash vents. Not usually a big deal but a while ago I was in southern WA in 114 F heat. Anyone heard of this problem and better yet have a solution.
Thanks for any help
Yote
I'm curious about the oil pan replacement. This is the only report I've ever heard of a 4.7 having a defective oil pan. Highly unusual is a serious understatement.
How good is your relationship with the dealer? Most dealers will try to work with someone if there's completely no sign of negligence or abuse on the part of the vehicle owner. You should've received a seven year, 70,000 mile warranty that would've covered the oil pan. Brakes!? Well, that varies considerably by driver. The A/C compressor is not completely unusual and I've seen Dodge go 50-50 on some of them, depending on the situation.
Maintaining a good relationship with the dealer is usually rewarding in cases like these, unless the dealer's business philosophy is poor.
Good luck,
Dusty
This should be noted in your owner's manual if your truck is so designed.
kcram - Pickups Host
Anyway, glad it cooled down some...just in time for August!
Bests,
Dusty
At this moment in time Chrysler is actually not in as bad a shape financially as GM and especially Ford. But I find it doubtful that they'd short the gas charge to save because it would likely trigger a customer to visit the dealership for service where it would cost the company more for warranty service.
I'm pretty sure that there was an issue with the heater housings on the Mega Cab models and that Dodge had issued a TSB for poor A/C performance. I don't remember exactly what the defect was, but I seem to recall a full housing replacement was required. Have you experienced this?
Best regards,
Dusty
Thanks,
Lewis
Thanks,
Noel