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Hyundai Azera Maintenance and Repair
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Comments
Just do what is mentioned in the manual. (Which, I believe, at 15k is just an oil change). As someone said, whom would you rather trust as far as service goes; the guys who designed the car & wrote the manual or the scummy dealer?
Just follow the manual & you'll be all good. Don't let the dealer make a fool out of you.
Most of the stuff they want to charge you for, is stuff you can really do yourself. If you still feel a need to have the dealer do the major parts of it, then they can scale the price back to reflect the services they don't do within the package.
In the end, it matters most what you feel comfortable with. Good luck.
Coming home last night from a town 30 minutes away, it comes on again for about 2 minutes and then goes off. Can anyone tell me what is going on and if I need to take the car to the dealer? Thanks!
If you're sure the tire pressure in each tire is good, it could just be your TPMS is malfunctioning, which should be covered under your warranty with no problems.
Good luck!
Also, make sure that your tires are at or around 20% of the recommended pressure. Azera's TPMS is programmed to illuminate when the pressure falls below 20% of the recommended 30psi (20% of which would be 24psi).
Of course, we can't discount the TPMS being defective. It should be covered under warranty if that's the case.
Good luck!
I told them I personally replace the cabin air every 10k miles and the engine air filter was done at 30k miles, leaving the various inspections, tires, oil/filter. In the end they didn't even rotate the tires, finding that the fronts had a little more rubber on them than do the rear, $37.56 out the door... :shades:
Went to Hyundai who wanted $52 to reprogram my alarm FOB (What does FOB stand for?). I would have paid it if I had the hour they said they needed but should I? I've never had one of these stop working with any other car that I have owned.
Does anyone know if this is a warranty item or if this sounds strange? Does that mean this will happen to my other one?
Thanks
rpm
In the automotive context fob is a word, not an acronym. There are FOB acronyms like Free On Board, but the device used for remotely unlocking a car is a fob, not a FOB.
Some fobs are passive and only wake up when a button is pressed. Others are active and are always transmitting a low-power signal so the car can "see" the fob when it's in range. My Outlander's FAST system is like that; it needs the transmission for the car to see it in proximity & unlock the door without requiring a button press. My dealer advised me that the fob batteries will generally only go a year or so, which is a far cry from my prior car's passive fobs which would go 5+ years on a battery.
When I've had the battery replaced before reprogramming wasn't necessary so I'd chalk that up to a design issue on the Hyundai fob; it seems to not use non-volatile RAM to store programming. That's a bad place to cheap out IMO. Along similar lines, the battery in my garage door opener's keypad died the other day & it too lost programming. Had to find the manual to figure out how to reprogram it.
The word fob may be linked to the low German dialect for the word Fuppe, meaning "pocket", however, the real origin of the word is unknown.
Volitile memory sucks, as it continually uses battery power, 24/7. If you want to avoid paying $50 every few years, you could try to open the fob while it still works, find the circuit board voltage terminals, parallel with a (likely) 1.5v external source, replace the battery, pull the external source, close it all up, rinse/repeat before the new battery goes bad... aw, here's th' darn $50, bloodsucking dealer!
:confuse:
Let me know how it works out.
Propblem: Began with slight surging of idle after first start in am, engine going from approx 1300 to 1600 rpm by itself--no accelator applied, and it stopped after driving a short distance.
Several weeks later, shortly after starting, car exhaust was popping as if it needed a valve job, and it would not accelerate to a speed greater than 3 mph or so. Of course, we were 250 miles from home, or a Hyuundai Dealer. Turned engine off, restarted it after a couple of minutes, and ran normally. So we were cruising along the Interstate and the problem reappeared. Slowly went down to about 3 mph, pulled over on the shoulder, and was able to limp off an exit--afdter a couple of miinutes, restarted and was able to make it home. Had we had to go home in the limp home mode, it would have taken 48 hours or so.
Diagnosis: Errant throttle position sensor--apparently there is a TSB on this.
Moral: If your Azera is surging at idle after a cold start, get it looked at rather than having it strand you in the boonies.
This little epiisode was als marred by my hitting a pothole at low speed--10 mph--which blew out an allmost new tire so we came home at 50 mph on the donut spare. The good news is that you get really good gas mileage at 50 mph---32-33 mpg.
I am curious to know if anyone else has had an issue with moisture or water getting into their fog lights. I had one light replaced under warranty at about 55K miles and now I'm at 83K miles and it's doing it again. It will be covered under the warranty, but my driver's side fog light started doing the same thing. Since it's after the original Hyundai warranty, the extended warranty wouldn't cover it...so I ordered one from PartsGeek.com ($47). I plan on running a bead of silicone around the seam to better seal it and hope for the best.
Anyway, if you're experiencing a vibration when applying the brakes, it would more than likely mean you have a warped rotor. If you feel the vibration in the brake pedal, it would most likely be one of your front rotors if you feel it in the seat, it would more than likely be in the rear.
Just my 2 cents on it. Let me know what you find out.
Good luck!
I did have an issue with my fog lights taking on moisture. In one of them the water made the bulb shatter and the hot bits melted the inside of the housing a bit and made a mess. I ordered a replacement (under $50) and when I got it, I put a bead of silicone around the seam where the lens meets the housing and installed it. Pulled the other one out and sealed it as well and now...no issues at all with moisture.
Not sure what you mean by "business conduct". It's not like other car makers don't have more serious issues that don't get taken care of. You're pointing to a trip computer that resets from time to time or maybe even changes what setting it's on. Is that truly something major? It's not like an accelerator pedal sticking, or brakes failing or anything like that. If you let that one minor thing make you wonder about a company's overall technical competence...seems like you're just looking for something to be unhappy about.
What car manufacturer plans to produce a car where not everything works as designed? By not fixing the small , known problems that's exactly what they're doing. That problem hasn't reached their tolerance threshold. Doesn't it make you wonder about what other problems or potential problems which they may be tolerating? And, I think the Toyota acceleration problem was found in the electronics of their throttle-by-wire system which they knew about but 'tolerated' for some time.
That's what I mean by business conduct. A company can take aim at and kill product defects or they can do the cost analysis and decide that the cost of fixing them is greater than paying for whatever damages might arise. So the problems remain below their tolerance threshold by design of how they decided to do business. Of course I don't know if that is what Hyundai does with things like this, but it does cause me to wonder.
"seems like you're just looking for something to be unhappy about."
Not at all. All in all, I'm very pleased with my Azera and I pay a lot of attention to the trip computer because I'm very surprised at the high mpg I get and I like to brag to friends about it.
Well...I'm sure with Toyota on the hot seat as they are, auto makers will be much more responsive to issues.
I have a better situation, how bout an air bag light that keeps coming on...even after they supposedly fix the issue. That is a safety matter that really had me concerned because they never seemed to get it right over the course of 3 years. However, out comes a recall concerning a wiring harness for the air bag system. Lo and behold, after I take my Azera in for the recall, no issue with the air bag light any more. In some cases, it may take them a while to find the problem. In this case they did and I'm happy.
Glad to hear you're happy with your Azera as I am with mine as well (can't you tell with almost 85k miles?). :shades: I think also around the 100k mile mark, I'll be upgrading the OEM shocks/struts with the aftermarket Monroes that are available. If all your trip computer is doing is resetting from time to time...that's not a big deal as it will still calculate again when you're driving. Now if it started kicking out unrealistic numbers....then I would worry.
Hyundai Service checked and found the alternator was doing its job OK but that there was a voltage drop across the ground cables and that all connections were corroded. All bolts were replaced, surfaces cleaned, star washers and anti-corrosive grease applied, battery charged and now all is perfect again.
I provided my own synthetic oil (5w 20), and had him do an oil change, oil filter, air filter, cabin filter change. I also had a front driving light bulb replaced. My Hyundai required the more special/expensive bulb from Hyundai, and I had both front and rear pads replaced, rotors were turned (no damage). Total with tax was $445.
I am taking the car to a my Hyundai dealer to fix the oil leak on Tuesday, it is supposed to be a warranty item, plus they will check the front seat belt recall item
Next big item is plugs next time in.
Had brakes checked last week----fronts ok----99% wear on left rear, 20% wear on right rear and am wondering why rear brakes would wear so unevenly? No other issues. Any thoughts. Thanks
My keyfob has been dead for 4-5 months, and, thanks to gamleged and rminor I purchased (5) Sony CR2032 from dealextreme for $2.07 dlvd, installed one with ease, and my keyfob now works again.
BTW, every time I go to the dealer for an oil change, the service manager parades a filthy cabin filter out to me with a recommendation to change it.
I replaced my original filter with a cut up/doctored home air conditioning filter a while back. Lo and behold, the filter I was shown by the service manager last month was a heavily used stock Hyundai filter - go figure.
There's no need to 'reprogram' your keyfob if the battery dies. Just replace the battery & you're good to go. Reprogramming is ONLY required if you have lost your key & they have to make a new one from a blank.
And replace the cabin filter only at 10k & you can do it yourself.
Take your business elsewhere. Your dealer is an A grade cheat. Do you really want them to work on your car?
I was going through all these old posts for info on a problem I now have ( not related to oil/engine ), and thought I'd give my $.02 on this post. I have read that synthetic oils do not "oxidize" over time like regular oils, and hence the time recommendation for oil change does not apply to synthetics.
I put about 2500 miles per year on my 1999 Mustang Cobra, and get the oil changed once per year - in the fall before it is stored for the winter. I always use Mobil 1, and have had no problems.
I could also surmise that since Hyundai has no idea how long a new car will sit on the lot before being sold ( plus the transit time from Korea ), as the explanation of synthetic oil installation at the factory.
I've done the brakes oil changes on my Azera over the 95k miles I've had it, but the plugs...I'm going to defer to a mechanic. I just have to decide if I'm going with double platinum plugs or if I'm going with the iridium plugs. :confuse:
I like this dealer and he has been fair in the past, although now their recommended service prices on the board do not list all these extra things they want to do.I imagine most dealers are trying to pad the service items since these cars really don't need much done, right?
Anyway it seemed to me when they realized they couldn't get more money out of me they decided to drum up some warranty business, although I have noticed some oil leaking slightly in my driveway.
When I had an Audi I just paid what they asked and never compared with what was actually required. Maybe they were doing the same thing. This is a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to have to bargain to get only what is necessary done. I almost feel like going to a gas station next time. Probably less money and less hassle.