Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Really appreciate your time with this, been trying to figure this out for months and hoping we did not need to replace the transmission!
and i DID NOT have to reset any computers after i finished the job.
Start with taking off the lower pan, the governor is the round solenoid on the passenger side of the valve body. It has a metal retainer around it with 3 bolts with 7/16 heads and two screws with torx heads. Remove the bolts and screws, remove the retainer and remove the governor solenoid. Remove the last 7/16 headed bolt in the governor plate and remove the governor plate. After you remove that you can then remove the 3- 4 shift solenoid and the TCC solenoid. Check the screens on all three solenoids. If they have metal shavings or clutch dirt on them you can either try cleaning them or replacing them. I'm not sure about the 3-4 shift and TCC solenoids(they are built together) but the governor solenoid is about 100 dollars. So it is worth (if you have the time) to try cleaning them and reinstalling them to see if they work. Tighten the 7/16 headed bolts to 120 inch pounds and the screws to 35 inch pounds. Install a new filter and clean out the pan. Refill the trans with ATF +4. If you have any more questions, just ask.
had to floor it to get it to move at all.
Changed the tcc solenoid and press switch still lose overdrive and temp light came on .
Help please.
Attempting to adjust bands too what a pain.
when i stop i can pull it down shift it out to second then for it to go in to drive have to put in nuteral some time have to do the same thing from first to second need help whats wrong
i have adjusted the tv/kickdown cable every way it can be adjusted can any one help
I'm just noticing the same fluctuation in rpm at constant speed/pressure on accelerator pedal. Tach bounces up & down 400-500 rpm and you can hear engine speed change as well. Has anyone with this issue found a repair solution? Hopefully not a tranny rebuild, just bought it with 75500 miles on it and the trans problem just started. Doesn't do it continuously, but erratic mini-slip.
Your 4.7 uses the 545RFE transmission, which has an extremely good reputation for reliability. I've never heard of a complete rebuild on one of these trannys unless damaged by misuse.
It sounds like the torque converter is coming out of lock, or you're dropping back from 5th to 4th gear. The first suspect, and the one most common, is the Throttle Position Sensor at the throttlebody. For some reason the older ones seem to become irratic after a while.
Check to see if the Overdrive circuit is functioning by press the O/D button. The O/D lamp should illuminate when the button is depressed. If not, this circuit is not functioning correctly.
Because of the age of the vehicle, check for electrical connections to the transmission and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). I've seen a couple that had corrosion on the connector terminals.
Has your speedometer been acting a little strangely? Irratic shifting could be caused by a defective Rear Wheel Speed Sensor, located in the rear axle housing.
If this problem started recently with climate change, the problem could be caused by a defective/intermittent temperature sensor in the transmission. A 545RFE Shift Schedule Description is as follows:
545RFE Transmission Operation
The Transmission Control Module (TCM) is programmed to allow a select variety of shift schedules that are dependent on the following physical conditions:
*Selected gear range
*Throttle position
*Engine load
*Transmission fluid temperature
*TCM software level
The TCM will adjust the shift schedule of the transmission as environmental and driving conditions change.
-16F and below and with the transmission in the Drive position, the shift sequence will be 1st to 3rd until the ATF temperature reaches -12F. When placing the gear selector in either 1st or 2nd gear the transmission will be in 2nd gear only. There will be no torque converter lock up and switching off Overdrive will have no effect.
-12F and -10F the transmission shift sequences are as follows:
*No torque converter lock up
*No shift in to 5th gear
*Delayed 2-3 upshifts
*Delayed 3-4 upshifts
*High speed 4-2, 3-2, or 2-1 kickdown shifts are prevented
*High throttle opening shifts will be early
*Switching off Overdrive will prevent shifts into 4th gear
-10F and 36F the transmission shift sequences are the same as above, except that 2-3 upshifts are not delayed. Switching off Overdrive will prevent shifts into 4th gear.
40F and 80F All shift sequences are normal except there will be no torque converter lockup. Switching off Overdrive will prevent shifts into 5th gear.
80F and 240F This is normal operating fluid temperature. The 545RFE will be in the normal shift sequence, including allowing torque converter lockup.
240F ATF or the engine coolant 244F, the transmission shift sequences will be as follows:
*delayed 2-3 upshift
*delayed 3-4 upshift
*3rd gear FEMCC from 30-40 MPH
*3rd gear PEMCC above 35 MPH
*Above 25 MPH the torque converter will not unlock unless the throttle is closed or if a wide open throttle, 2nd gear PEMCC to 1 kickdown is made.
EMCC = Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
NO EMCC = No Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
PEMCC = Partially Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
FEMCC = Full Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
Gradual to No EMCC = Gradual to No Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch
NOTE: Do not use anything other than ATF+4 transmission fluid.
Best regards,
Dusty
WOW, that's a load of info on my problem! Thanks for taking the time and effort to explain all that. The OD circuit seems to be working fine. I'm hoping that it's the Throttle Position Sensor as you suggest.
I've got a couple of facts to add which might help narrow down the culprit...
* seems to happen between 40-70 MPH
* seems to be definitely climate-related, as it shifts fine until air temp gets below 40F-45F or so. It ran great when the weather was warmer.
* Also, the latest development, today as a matter of fact, is the check engine light just came on for the first time since I bought the truck at the end of August (I know this may not even be related to the erratic shifting issue in cold temps)
I just noticed where you state in your response: "If this problem started recently with climate change, the problem could be caused by a defective/intermittent temperature sensor in the transmission." Do you think , based on my temp related description, that this is more likely the problem rather than the Throttle position Sensor.
I'm going to start calling some Dodge dealerships in my area to see if they have seen my problem. Hopefully they won't rip me off with unnecessary repairs.
Best Regards,
Tom
My pleasure to be of assistance.
On the 4.7 polyhead motors of your vintage, the Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) were a commonly replaced item. Here's a symptom list for the TPS:
The following list of symptoms associated with defective Throttle Position Sensors on Dodge trucks are a compilation of actual field experiences, both observed and reported:
off-idle hesitation
hesitation at speed
rough engine idle
intermittent rough engine idle
rough idle then stalls
engine RPM fluctuates at idle
engine RPM flairs after start, then stalls
engine stalls when placed into any gear
engine stalls after start unless throttle pedal used
engine stalls when throttle opened
engine surges at speed
engine performance poor: engine misfires under load/acelleration
irratic shifts
irratic torque converter unlocking
irratic or over sensitive 6-5 downshifts at speed (68RFE)
irratic or over sensitive 5-4 downshifts at speed (545RFE)
irratic or over sensitive 4-3 downshifts at speed (RE, RLE)
3-4 driveline clunk
delayed 1-2 shift
delayed 3-4 upshift
3-4 upshifts occurs abrubtly after 2-3 shift
no 3-4 upshift
no 4-3 downshift
no kickdown at speed
no or irratic torque converter lock up
no or irratic overdrive shift
There are of course other possibilities, such as a stuck or worn shift solenoid, bad Torque Converter Clutch or Torque Converter Solenoid, a bad electrical connection, or clutch indexes out of range (worn clutches or depleted transmission fluid). The Transmission Temperature Sensor on a 545RFE is built in to the Transmission Range Sensor, which could also be defective. You could also have a shift cable sticking or out of adjustment. These components could all be affected by temperature change. On Dakotas, the shift cable problems usually crop up in cold weather. Can't say I've heard of this problem on a Ram, but the system and components are similar.
Go down to Advance Auto across from Panorama Plaza and ask for my son, Ken, and have him pull the codes from the engine computer module. That will help identify the problem.
So how are you doing nowadays?
Bests,
Dusty
I just realized who I've been talking to about my RAM!!! DUH!!!
I'm OK, hope you're doing well. Sounds like you're still very sharp technically. I'll have Ken pull the codes as you suggested. Wish I could have afforded a new one like yours 8-(
SMALL WORLD,
Tom
While driving, the truck would kick out of gear and wouldn't go back. I could pull off to the side of the road and restart the truck and be able to drive again. This went on all the way home. The truck began to stall out if I didn't quickly put it in gear and move on. Once I got to the bottom of my driveway, I could only go a few feet before restarting and the truck would not idle at all. After coming to a rest in my yard, I have not been able to start it without pumping the pedal to keep it running and I have no gears at all.
I was led to believe the tranny was toast, but why wont the engine run? Keeps me thinking that there is a different problem. After searching these forums I thought it might be the TPS. I checked for resistance using an OHM meter accross the signal and power leads. There is a steady resistance that decreases as I move the throttle then steadily returns. Which sounds normal to me.
Anyone have any ideas?
I thought I would charge the battery and check the electrical system. Fuses,cables, battery. Cable from PCM ,etc...
If anyone can help,thanks in advance...
I have a 1998 1500 ram 5.2L w/45RE 4x4.
While driving, the truck would kick out of gear and wouldn't go back. I could pull off to the side of the road and restart the truck and be able to drive again. This went on all the way home. The truck began to stall out if I didn't quickly put it in gear and move on. Once I got to the bottom of my driveway, I could only go a few feet before restarting and the truck would not idle at all. After coming to a rest in my yard, I have not been able to start it without pumping the pedal to keep it running and I have no gears at all.
I was led to believe the tranny was toast, but why wont the engine run? Keeps me thinking that there is a different problem. After searching these forums I thought it might be the TPS. I checked for resistance using an OHM meter accross the signal and power leads. There is a steady resistance that decreases as I move the throttle then steadily returns. Which sounds normal to me.
Anyone have any ideas?
I thought I would charge the battery and check the electrical system. Fuses,cables, battery. Cable from PCM ,etc...
I have since started the truck and after sitting 8 months it started easily with a quick jump. Still, it will not idle. It whines when put in gear and will move somewhat slipping the whole time.
I have done a resistance check on the TPS and it seems OK. Today I checked the power going to the TPS and the voltage when moviong the throttle. Everything checks out.
I find it hard to beleive that it not idling is a coincidence.
Can anyone shine some light on this,or do I need a new tranny and engine work?
Are there any other solenoids or sensors that would create this problem?
If anyone can help,thanks in advance...
David
The idle problem turned out to be the IAC. Replaced it and it now runs great!
As for no gears, once I could get the engine warmed up i tried putting it in gear. At first nothing. Then as I revved the motor, it started slipping into gear. Enough so I could move it. Doesn't seem to favor one gear over another. At times it seemed strong.
Could something be clogged? I have replaced the fluid and the screen. Didn't see any metal. Is there hope?
i came across ur post from 09 i am have same prolbem just wonderning
what was the prolbem thank you for any help
thank you jack925