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-Getting hot going in and out of the heater core so I don't think it is plugged
-Got enough coolant in the system
-Tried a new blend door actuator but that did not appear to help. While turning the temp knob, the actuator was moving but then it stopped moving. Put the new actuator on and it didn't move either.
-Went to the junkyard and got a heater control from another 2001 and put it in and still no movement with the actuator.
What the heck could be the problem? This is my wife's car and she doesn't really want a cold car in the morning. And let's be honest, if she ain't happy, ain't no one happy.
I found the information online about pulling about the 10amp fuze for the ECM and let it stay off for 10 minutes and then plug it in and let the computer reset itself. I did that, and it WORKED!
Also had a problem where my rear-air wouldn't blow hot air, so I thought I would try the steps again. Now, my display on the Digital Climate control won't work at all. THe little lights for the defrosters won't come on....doesn't work at all. I checked a few of the fuses to see if they were blown, but they look good.
Any suggestions?
I have a 1999 lifted 'Burban which has developed a clicking/grinding noise when moving. It sounds like it's coming from the middle of the vehicle. I notice it only when moving, and the noise occurs concurrently with the speed of the vehicle. When idling it is absent, same when revving the engine in park. It sounds like metal/metal clicking or grinding.
I recently had the rear-end replaced due to a previously incorrectly installed differential. At the time of repair I had no issues, but this came about and is worsening. I feel that it is something with the driveshaft (but I know barely anything about cars), as it only occurs when the wheels are moving. I hate to bring it to a shop without an idea of what is wrong. Any suggestions?
I have been told the bearings could be the issue but its coming from the middle of the SUV.
Did you get yours fixed?
My upper panel for the rear, as well as the rear control panel, they have either off, or full cold, and never get hot air.
The PCM doesn't show any codes, aside from the front airbag sensor. I've got a couple months before the heater will be necessary, so where do I begin?
Thanks
I see that you've been into your dealership to have this looked into already; if you would like for us to follow up on this with the, please send us the following information via email at socialmedia@gm.com so we can update our system and get a Service Request going: your name and Edmunds username, phone and address, the last 8 of your VIN and current mileage, and the name of your dealership.
Sarah, GM Customer Service
We understand if you're looking for some do-it-yourself advice as the vehicle is outside of any applicable warranties by time, if not also by mileage. If you did decide to work with a dealership on this and wanted for us to work with you through that process, please email us at socialmedia@gm.com (include your name and contact information, a summary of the situation, and the last 8 digits of your VIN).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
I had the same exact problem and I fixed mine myself and saved me $100's of dollars!!!! Here's what I did......I went to YouTube and searched for the exact issue and I found this AWESOME video and website called Sparky.com he shows you how to troubleshoot the blower motor resistor. I followed exact instructions, went to the part store puchased the blower motor resistor and replaced it with NO problems. This happens when your blower motor resistor gets wet from A/C or rain via a clogged drain tube.
Here's the video to watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0mDPW9P5VU
Good Luck!!
Here's the info for a 2008 Suburban 2500 - that's the latest I have. I don't know if yours works the same way but I would expect it's at least similar. It explains how the A/C system works - hope this helps:
The A/C system used on this vehicle is a non cycling system. Non cycling A/C systems use a high pressure switch to protect the A/C system from excessive pressure. The high pressure switch will OPEN the electrical signal, to the compressor clutch, in the event that the refrigerant pressure becomes excessive. After the high and low side of the A/C system pressure equalize, the high pressure switch will CLOSE. Closing the high pressure switch will complete the electrical circuit to the compressor clutch. The A/C system is also mechanically protected with the use of a high pressure relief valve. If the high pressure switch were to fail or if the refrigerant system becomes restricted and refrigerant pressure continued to rise, the high pressure relief will pop open and release refrigerant from the system.
Let us know what you find out.
Spriteman
AC has been refilled twice, interior temp.sensors checked [and one replaced].
GM dealer in the Netherlands is out of any good ideas what might cause the problem.
Anyone who has a clue....
Thanks!
1 - you need to check to see if you are generating cold refrigerant in the auxiliary expansion valve in the rear unit - take the right hand cover off of the rear/auxiliary unit and feel that when the unit is running that a cold line is coming from the expansion valve. If it is that's good because otherwise you have a more involved fix.
2 - when you turn on the rear unit and the blower is running do you feel any kind of air coming out of the rear air vents?
These two checks will at least give you a starting point of what's wrong.
SM
Thanks, much appreciated.
rt