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The door opens fine, but neither the roof button or b pillar button will close the door as the hold open latch will not release. The manual handle has a cable the goes directly to the latch so this works still.
Anybody had any luck with this yet?
I have this problem and they want $1700 for the repair!!
Thanks
mary
http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/
and scroll to the Sept 4 entry.
Or cut and paste the link below without the quotes to your address bar for a direct link.
"http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-fixed-power-door.html"
Try this:
http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/
and scroll down to the Sep. 4 entry.
Or cut and paste the link below to your address bar without the quotes.
"http://polifrogblog.blogspot.com/2009/09/i-fixed-power-door.html"
I suspect the problem is that sometimes the sliding doors don't go all the way back and lock / engage. When I disable the automatic doors and manually slide the doors back, they sometimes "click" into place. Other times they seem to just hit some barrier and stop (and can slide forward without engaging the handle).
With the automatic doors enabled, it seems the motor is still trying to completely slide the door back even though it stopped prior to clicking into place.
Anyone else have similar issues?
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
Any solution? Would definitely like to try a "shadetree" mechanic approach if it is just swapping out a couple of actuators. Part #'s and any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Andy
A year ago our auto lock stopped working on the driver's side sliding door. The dealer wanted $600 to fix it so it has stayed a manuel lock.
I was shocked to see so many folks are having these problems I will be calling NHTSA. Does anyone know if a recall is in the works?
Hoping it does not rain......... :mad:
Comparing my working door to my non-working door, it was easy to see that there was a small motor that was not activating. Normally, it activates when any button is pushed and even when the interior and exterior handles are pulled. (When the handles are pulled it's actually redundant, because the handles also manually release the latches.)
I found an interior door diagram over at tundrasolutions.com and identified the part by name as the "Door Lock Release Motor Assembly". Toyota sold me the part for $103.09, which seemed better than scouring the junkyards for me. The Toyota part number is 85620-08061. It's basically just below the window motor, and it's pretty obvious from the cables that it actuates the door latches.
Before ordering the part, I unplugged the motor and stuck my multimeter into the feed to make sure it was getting power. Sure enough it was getting juice, but was dead as a doornail.
Got the part plugged it (just while holding it) to test if the new motor would solve the problem, and was pleased to see that it was a clean fix. The last step, obviously was getting it installed. It's a bit of a pain to replace because the motor screws into the sliding door atachment control panel from the back side. The only way to remove that panel is to disconnect the window. This made me slightly nervous, but it really wasn't that bad. Working slowly and carefully to pay attention to how all the trim goes back it probably took a little under 2 hours to replace the motor.
All is working great now.
Does anybody have a solution or know what it going on with this issue?
First, similar to above it takes about three seconds of turning the key for the car to turn on. Is this a problem or just something i have to live with?
Second. I live in Virginia, and it has been on and off cold here the last few days. Today it snowed. Tonight and in the past cold days when i have gone out to the car to open the doors (rear sliding) they have been unable to open. Whether the electric is on or off, the door will what seems like unhitch, and then it will not open or close. The problem is that i can not lock the car because the car thinks the door is open - or if it thinks it closed, lets me lock the car and eventually the alarm goes off when it thinks the door is open. I would think this is a problem caused by the cold, but i have taken the car to vermont on many occasions during the winter (in colder conditions) and never had this problem, even when the car has sat for longer.
I am looking for a suggestion on how to go about handling this. I believe the car is under extended warranty until 70k miles.
The manual door is locked from inside. I can open it from outside but not from inside (tho sometimes the lock switch mysteriously falls down on its own and it takes several tries over a period of hours to get it to unlock from outside also). The dealers tell me they need to take the door off at a cost of $100 to diagnose the problem, and then who knows what they'll come up with once they have me there. Has anyone had experience with this problem -- how was it fixed?
I know there are 3 other doors (no inside release from the rear lift door) but I'm giving this one to my daughter and want it to be extra safe.
I also have problems with the automatic door -- occasionally it will balk at closing, whether I use any button or pull on it; if I disable the auto button, it won't close manually either. I've been reading suggestions here and am kind of overwhelmed by the options.
We're looking for a new car and it's not going to be a Toyota!
Anyone have any luck with Toyota or magic potion !
Bought Toyota for a reason reliability not to impressed with them so far
Cheers
Contacted Dealer and approximate cost to fix is about $600.00
After reviewing this website i feel like it could be a manufactures defect.
Saw your blog but not much there. Sold my 04 Sienna to my daughter and now they have this problem with the doors freezing in Winter. They refuse to drive the van in winter as it is a safety problem. Have you had any further success or failure and what is your status with the dealer??
ps I live in Tillsonburg too.
pulled on a stuck frozen door. it was minus 15C. the cable snapped. the dealer said 1700 dollars plus and no help from toyota. THIS IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE DOOR DESIGN AND TOYOTA CHOOSES TO HIDE>
Make my next minivan a CHRYSLER> I had far fewer problems with my Caravan ES.
It seems like a sensor switch is engaging and disengaging.
Have you found a solution?
It turns out that there are 3 mounting screws at the back of the door that hold the latching mechanism in place. All 3 screws were loose. Once I tightened them the problem was solved. It requires a star head screwdriver which luckily I had.
Hope this helps. Better than $800+ repair.
I live in Alaska and have a 2005 Sienna XLE. The first two years I had the vehicle there were no problems but starting last year, my sliding doors also froze shut. I took it to my Toyota dealer and was told "it's just a design flaw in the vehicle". I was told to wipe the doors down with a towel after it snowed or I was at the car wash and then spray everything with WD40 or Silicone. I've tried both and neither work. Luckily I don't have kids and just have resigned myself to not using the doors a good portion of the winter, which is ridiculous. Now, my gas latch is also freezing up and this morning I had to take my car to the car wash to unfreeze the side gas latch so I could get gas. Toyota should be ashamed since these vehicles aren't cheap!
It's only 2 1/2 years old so I would think it wouldn't be an issue
I've logged the complaint with the NTSB. There are definitely safety issues, not the least of which are the doors not closing or latching open completely and the "door open" indicator not recognizing when the broken power door is open.
Toyota national consumer help line opened a case and promised to call back, but never did - it's been more than six months.
We have so much problems with this van, I consider it is a lemon....
List of problem
1) Gas lick (flooded) after replacing the fuel tank.. took them 2 weeks to fix.
2) Driver side front door has popping sound - welding problem- initially they refuse to fix until the recall got in.
3) Driver side sit belt not easily release - wants $300 to fix .. Safty issue? Not fix yet.
4) Steering wheel arm cushion broke - bad for driving and aligment- cost $700.00
5) Passenger automatic door broke - require 800+ to fix claiming motor problem. took it to a independent auto shop , fix it for $200.00. The cushion of the arm that hold the door worn off and therefore the door is scratching the side of the car.
6) the most current one... I do not know whether it is related to rain or not.
it happen 2 times last week, It is very hard to turn my steering wheel when I am in drive mode, have to restart the car to solve this problem.
Do any of you have the last problem.. I am very afraid what will happen if I am driving on freeway.
Ms. Kathleen C. DeMeter, Director
Office of Defects Investigation
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Room W45-302
1200 New Jersey Avenue, S.E.
Washington, D.C. 20590
Make sure you detail the crap you are putting up with ... in a NICE way.
Good Luck and Be Well,
Phil
When writing make sure you tell her why it is a safty issue. Refer to the above link and make sure not to use arguments that have already been dismissed.
Ms. Kathleen C. DeMeter, Director
Office of Defects Investigation
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Room W45-302
1200 New Jersey Avenue, S.E.
Washington, D.C. 20590
Be Well,
Phil
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/index.cfm
The Prius will be added next, followed by the Sienna.
By the time all is said and done I bet they reprogram every ECU for models with throttle-by-wire to cut off the throttle completely when the brake is applied.
Just remember the Neutral trick until we hear more.
Has anyone heard of redoing something to the doors when the battery dies? My battery did die so I was told to re? to restore computer to the sliding door? I called toyota and they told me to take it in to the dealership... what a joke..