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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2007+)

11718202223

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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The dealer should do this for free, even if you didn't purchase the car from them.
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    omar6575omar6575 Member Posts: 24
    You need to have the vehicle check by the dealer, is the check engine light on? . have you have your TPS SENSOR TSB, google this tsb ( 09-FL-003-2) done to this vehicle? it can also be your coolant temperaturte sensor or even the map sensor.To be honest at this point you have really one alternative, if the check engine light is not on, you can just wait until it gets worse. However your are probably still under warranty. The dealer has a way to check the engine parameters even with out a check engine light being on. Using their GDS diagnostic tool, they are able to read what they call engine freeze data. Every time you cycle the igntion is records all the sensors input and outpurt voltages and it also gives real time diagnostics for intermitent problems such the one your experiencing. hope this helps a bit :)
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    srz948srz948 Member Posts: 75
    My check engine light went off the next day and the car ran fine. Today, 11 days later driving home from NYC to LI the car quit on me 5 times. Same symptoms. Thought I was going to need roadside assist, but eventually made it home. The check engine light is on and I will attempt to drive it to the dealer tomorrow morning.
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    srz948srz948 Member Posts: 75
    I really need the car this weekend so I decided to disconnect the battery cable for a couple of hours and "reboot" the cars computer systems. I'll let you know how I make out.
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    frick55frick55 Member Posts: 1
    I was just told that I have a small leak in the head gasket of my Santa Fe and it will cost about $2,500 to repair. I am about 10,000K (6,000 miles) over the warranty and will be arguing wit Hyundai for some help with this. The service guys say it is not something they have seen in this model. Anyone else have this problem?

    Thanks

    Frank
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    dbz36dbz36 Member Posts: 5
    My 2007 Santa Fe did it again this morning. Rough idle at start up, no power, dash indicator lights on or flashing. Cool damp weather. After turning off engine and re-starting, everything ran OK. I talked with Hyundai Service today. He thinks that the problem might be with the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). I am taking it in for service on 3/31.
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    sfdreaminsfdreamin Member Posts: 7
    Thanks friend. The engine light is not on nor has it been on for a long time. It has come on in the winter when it gets real cold but that has nothing to do with my current problem. You are quite right that it could be any number of things and I might have to wait for something to out right fail before it can be figured out.
    One thing I saw mentioned on another site suggested that the handshake the car makes with the key is sometimes slow and if you try starting the car before the little icon shows up on the dash, you can start the car but it will immediately quit. Which is just what is happening to me. So I have been making sure lately that the icon is lit up before I turn the key and so far I have not had a start and stall.
    So, maybe that is all it is. A slow connection between the car and the key.
    If it turns out to be more than this I will post again but for now all seems to be ok.
    Thanks again for your insightful answer. All help is good help.
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    yar2188yar2188 Member Posts: 1
    edited March 2010
    I have had the exact same problem with my 2007 Santa Fe over the last month. My Hyundai dealer has made two other attempts to fix the problem and today (3/31) they are installing a new Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) - does this all sound familiar? I will be interested to know how this works out for you because my dealer is not 100% confident that this is the problem. Keep fingers crossed.
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    somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    which engine do you have?
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    dbz36dbz36 Member Posts: 5
    My Hyundai dealer worked on my 07 Santa Fe this morning. According to the paperwork, they "performed diagnostics and found P2106, P12195, and P2135 fault codes. Found short in the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). Replaced TPS and reprogrammed Engine Control Module (ECM)" This was done under warranty and the dealer is very confident that the problem is fixed. Also, I think that this problem had been hurting my fuel economy slightly for a month or so. I'll be keeping an eye on that for a few weeks.
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    srz948srz948 Member Posts: 75
    Same with me. Dealer performed the exact same procedure and everything seems ok so far.
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    macdodd1macdodd1 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 05 santa fe,,,the compressor will run for about 10min, then shut off. I'll wait about 3/5 mins and hit the on switch, and it comes back on. Any suggestions why. Had the feon and fuses checked, all ok. When its working,,its blowing cool air.
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    ymmot11ymmot11 Member Posts: 8
    For the past couple of years, about 40K miles, my Santa Fe has been making a clunking or rattling sound when on bumpy roads at lower speeds 0-45 MPH. It is obviously coming from the front end. I had it looked at by one mechanic who said nothing was wrong and that I should look at some online forums! I have searched this forum for the last year and some people have reported similar sounds and suggested tightening their Stabilizing links. A differenet mechanic looked at it yesterday and suggested we replace the Front Sway Bar links. About $200.00.

    Has anyone had similar issues? Thanks :confuse:
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    dz302dz302 Member Posts: 26
    Had the stab. links replaced twice on our '07 Santee. This is covered under warranty. The dealer should cover this. Same noise: knocking and rattling.
    Santa Fe's seem to be hard on these links.....This repair will stop the noise.
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    ymmot11ymmot11 Member Posts: 8
    edited May 2010
    The dealership is telling me that it is only covered under warranty before 60,000 miles. How many miles did you have when they covered the repair. They are quoting me $159 for the replacement of both front bars including labor for others following this thread. Not too expensive but if I can get it covered I would rather have the $159!

    Thanks :surprise:
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The new-car warranty is powertrain 100k miles, bumper to bumper 60k miles. The suspension isn't part of the powertrain, so they're telling you the truth there.
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    dz302dz302 Member Posts: 26
    Our Santa Fe has 63K Kms. (Canada) Around 40K miles. I don't know what the limit is on suspension parts, but this was repaired during the winter with our last oil change. Not sure of the K's. I'd have to check the work order. If you are somewhat mechanically inclined, the repair is not difficult. Could save you a few $$$.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Bumper-to-Bumper, 60,000 miles should cover anything suspension-related, assuming they don't decide it is related to abuse or excessive wear.
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    ricko54ricko54 Member Posts: 1
    Looking at a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS V6 2.7 (76000 miles) from a dealer who claims changing the fuel filter is not necessary, and something they never do as it is a wire mesh filter and never clogs! He would only do it at my insistence. Hmmm...why would the manufacturer put a filter in if it never needed changing?Your thoughts?
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    omar6575omar6575 Member Posts: 24
    first. most new cars have plastic composite fuel tanks, chances of debri from the actual tank is greatly reduce, most fuel stations have filtration for the pumps. so that also reduces the amount of foreigh material entering the fuel system.

    2nd most new vehicles has a returnless fuel system. wich means fuel only flows one direction, that its toward the engine and its distributed by the fuel rails to each injector. fuel does not circulate back to the gas tank. the job of the pump with assistance of the fuel presure regulator ( which is attached to the fuel pump and fuel filter in the gas tank) is to maintain presure. since this system just pushes fuel one direction the amount of fuel that the filter sees is may be les than a one galon per hour.

    On older vehicles with a return system, the fuel filter can see at least 7-8 galons of fuel per hour doe to the cycle of excess fuel traveling back and fort from the tank to the engine. what that means is that the fuel filter works more since there is more constant fuel traveling true the filter media which eventually will clog up, usually in less than 8,000 miles. many of those filters are easily accesible do to that reason.

    3rd. yes, on newer cars the fuel filter does not have an actual scheduled replacement. However if that filter does get clog, ussally the fuel pump will draw addtional current to maintain presure. the moment the voltage values and ohms (electrical resistance) fall out of proper operating range, that will triger the onboard computer to produce a check engine light trouble shooting code. to prevent any addtional damage the fuel presure regulator will bypass the extra fuel with in the tank to prevent presure build up, remember there is an evap system thats part of this equation that recycles the excess fuel vapors that build up in the tank....

    hope this help to understand the way new modern fuel injection systems that are now in place in todays cars .. just think the new age of direct injection systems use higher presures and a more complex fuel delivery system.....
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    sfgijoe08sfgijoe08 Member Posts: 2
    Hello

    2008 Hyundai Santa fe experience the same issue while wife was driving lost power and contacted Dealer and was able to get it in that day and the check the Code and found P2106-lime Home Force Limited Power, P1295-Limp home Mode Power management and P2135 throttle Position Sensor 1&2 signal Voltage correlation. Per TSB. Replace the Throttle Position Sensor and updated the ECM. Got the vehicle back and very happy.
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    ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    Got a 2010 6 cylinder -- 6000 miles,

    Oil pressure light comes on when car comes to stop. Light is not on when car is moving. Have plenty of oil in engine. Getting it checked, any suggestions tho?
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    ral2167ral2167 Member Posts: 791
    Found out what problem was. Took it to a non hyundai place for an oil change-- they've been fine for all my other cars I've had over years-- they put in wrong oil filter. Fixed problem.
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    iv6teciv6tec Member Posts: 14
    The rear brakes on my 2007 Santa Fe GLS 3.3 V6 AWD with 45,600 km (28,300 mi) on board suddenly started making grinding noises two days ago. I took the car to the Hyundai Service where I've been getting my scheduled maintenance done since I bought the car new. They found that the pad backing plates and "sliders" had become covered with so much corrosion (a gray, rock hard layer of oxide) that they had fused together. Therefore the rear brakes were dragging and the right side outboard pad had worn down to the steel backing plate and the rotor was scored beyond repair. The Service Manager claimed that this was my fault as I had not accepted to do the yearly brake caliper service for $150 +tax. This is correct. I have owned many different makes and models of cars and SUV's in the past. I never, ever cleaned and lubricated disc brake caliper components except when replacing worn out pads. In the past this usually had to be done every 60,000km regardless of the duration. I still own a 2002 Chevy Venture with 58,000 km on board with all original brakes. 80% of my driving is on the highway. I always rustproof my cars yearly at Krown. I always wash my vehicles weekly at a drive through auto wash. When the Hyundai Service mechanic removed the rear wheels it was clear that the underbody, suspension and brake parts were super clean with no trace of corrosion except the gray oxide that had built up between the pads and "sliders". I pointed this out to the Hyundai Service Manager but he wouldn't budge from his position that it was 1100% my fault. I told him I feel this is a design flaw or bad choice of materials for the caliper components. There has to be galvanic corrosion taking place between the components. I have searched and there have been many similar complaints of premature brake corrosion of various Hyundai vehicles. If Hyundai Motor Company does not come clean and perform the repairs under warranty there will be a consumer backlash sooner or later that will reflect in a gradual market share loss.
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    iv6teciv6tec Member Posts: 14
    I had the exact same problem twice on my 2007 3.3 V6 AWD with 45,600 km on board. The second time it was quite scary as the car sowed down to 15 km/h (10 m.p.h.) on highway 401 in Toronto, where the speed limit is 100 km/h (63 m.p.h.). I almost got rear ended by an eighteen wheeler before I could pull off on the left shoulder. The Hyundai dealer replaced the throttle position sensor both times. First time it happened after six months/10,000 km of ownership second time after two years/40,000 km. Now I get a little nervous when I feel the car slowing down a little too suddenly while driving on the highway.
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    gene76gene76 Member Posts: 1
    I'm brand new to this forum. I just bought a 2005 Santa Fe AWD, 38K miles. When I push the accelerator from a dead stop it always surges rapidly for maybe 5+ seconds and then it settles down. That five+ seconds can be a nightmare when I'm having to make a sharp corner. It almost seems like the car is going out of control. The car is out of warranty or else I'd be knocking on the Hyundai door. Next week I'll probably take it to a mechanic. Is there anything particular I should tell him/her? Thanks, Gene
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    brutus13brutus13 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2007 Santa FE base model with a 3.3L V6. Noticed that the rear a/c will not turn on while the front and max a/c work fine. Green LED on rear a/c switch does not come on when you push the button. Thought it might be fuse A/CON 2 which appears to be the fuse for the rear A/C switch but other functions for this fuse are working
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    6991shaun6991shaun Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 sante fe and it's doing the same thing. did you ever find out what the problem was?
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    tokarntokarn Member Posts: 1
    We are now going through the exact same thing- what did you end up doing??? any advice. our car has been at dealership a week and they have told us the exact same thing- could change master cylinder but will not cover it because they can not get it to do the same for them.
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    toycam11toycam11 Member Posts: 4
    I own a 2007 sante fe,and all of a sudden with 60,000 miles both sunvisors fell into my hands.the first about 1 week ago and the other just yesterday,havent had a chance to take it to the dealer,just wondering if anyone else with this model year have the same problem and if so what should i expect?
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    lynricholynricho Member Posts: 3
    We have a 2006 Santa and the exact same thing happened to both our sunvisors a couple of years ago, one not long after the other. We were told it was a failing with that model vehicle but sounds like it is a failing for all Santas. Both were replaced under warranty.
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    marek07marek07 Member Posts: 3
    I currently own a 2002 Santa Fe GLS with about 112,000 miles on it. I'm the original owner since day one, and always had it serviced at the place I purchased it. My wife took the SUV in for a oil change, and was then told she needed the following:

    Power Steering Return Line Replaced $273.73
    Power Steering FLush $109.95
    Crankshaft Position $230.97

    I checked the SUV over and never had any issues with the power steering fluid leaking or issues with the steering in general. The big head scratcher is the Crankshaft Position ? Never heard of such a thing, and even consulted a neighbor who has 29 years as a GM mechanic. I've always had good service from this dealership, and was wondering with the economy if they were trying to get the most out of their customers now.

    I know at 120,000 I will have the timing belt replaced ( every 60,000 ) as recommended. Is this possibly what the service manager was refering to ?

    Any input would be appreciated
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    vlad36vlad36 Member Posts: 8
    My 2007 Santa Fe Limited is up to 37,000 miles and it's times to change the tires. I've done research on tires, but I'm still confused as to what's the best model for a safe driving experience with Winter on the horizon and small children as passengers. Also, I'm not sure if I should get a model offered by Costco or a more traditional outlet such as Goodyear -- if the latter, is it reasonable to try to negotiate the inclusion of a wheel alignment and balance with the purchase. The size of the tires needed is P235/60R-18. Any recommendations are most appreciated!
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Check out the Tire Rack; tirerack.com. They have a handy tool for tire comparisons with lots of consumer ratings.
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    dlfisher1dlfisher1 Member Posts: 10
    I had a difficult time finding tires that would even fit my Santa Fe that weren't $200/tire and up. I finally settled on the Yokohama YK520 at Discount Tire. I have had mine for several months and have performed great. I have a lead foot and push my tires to the extreme but the wear has been fine. The ride greatly improved over the OEM tires despite what some reviewers say about the tire. That said, I paid around $160 per tire but with all costs involved, the entire set came to right under $800.
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    jerome6jerome6 Member Posts: 1
    anyone know how to remove the shift knob on an 2007 hyundai santa fe
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    howzelhowzel Member Posts: 2
    My 2007 Santa Fe SE AWD started to show this problem at about 64k miles. "Clunking" noise coming from the right side of the front end at slow speeds, usually on rough pavement and parking lots. Just beyond the bumper to bumper warranty coverage, thank you very much. Cost wasn't too bad though. I bought the links online. OEM Hyundai was $50.74 for the pair, plus $10 shipping. A local shop put them in for $51 (0.6 hours.) Could have been a lot worse.
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    mpalacolmpalacol Member Posts: 14
    I had all 4 tires replaced today with Michelin Pilot HX MXM4. The mechanic showed me the rear lower sub-control arm on both the driver and passenger sides. The rear right control arm is rubbing against the frame. He said to call the Hyundai dealer as soon as possible because the control arm is an easy fix but if the frame gets damaged as a result, it is a major repair. :cry: He said normal wear and tear will cause this condition and it may be covered by the 60,000 mile warranty.

    Question: at 58,100 miles, is this control arm, also known as the camber, covered under the bumper to bumper 60 months/60,000 mile warranty? BIG Thanks for any replies . . . .
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    mpalacolmpalacol Member Posts: 14
    In Sept 2010, I started my 2007 Santa Fe SE car (at 53,700 miles) and there was a horrible "engine just collapsed" sound, my cousin ran towards me while watering the plants to ask what was that horrible noise. When I restarted, there was no acceleration when I pumped the gas and the "Check Engine" light was on however the car was still drivable. I made it to the dealer in one piece and the Diagnostics testing found same codes P2106, P1295, and P161B.

    The 'correction' on the warranty invoice says "Checked and tested and completed TSB 10FL007 completed reprogramming and reset light and . . . . working to factory specs". Everything's been fine since but I'm at 58,100 miles now and wondering what will be the out-of-pocket costs to 'reset' if this ever happens again. This is a very scary and strange computer glitch that I don't think I should have to pay for. Is this condition covered under the 100,000 powertrain warranty? :confuse: I guess the only comfort is knowing I'm not the only one.
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    mpalacolmpalacol Member Posts: 14
    In Aug 2010 at 51,400 miles, the rear pads of my 2007 SF SE were replaced by the CA dealer for $260 parts and labor. I had my tires replaced today and was advised that my front brake pads are barely there and now need replacement. The tire company is charging $160 but I like to go to authorized Hyundai dealers. I guess $625 is a little bit high for both front/back but not by much.
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    btj1btj1 Member Posts: 6
    My clock in my 2004 Santa Fe keeps changing the time to 1:02. It will do it driving down the high way or when I start it sometimes I notice it has changed. Anyone ever had this problem??
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    somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    i think this is a recall... but it would be covered in the warranty anyway as part of the suspension...
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    np01np01 Member Posts: 17
    The paint is peeling off one of the body-colored trim pieces in front of the roof rack because it was not primered. I have an '07 Silver Santa Fe with only 17,000 miles that has always been garaged. It's six months out of the 3 year paint warranty, and even though it's obviously peeling from all sides of the piece, the dealer, Phil Long in Colorado Springs, says that I scratched it off! :mad:
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    tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    I am looking to replace the Bridgestone tires on my 08 Limited AWD. So far research and phone calls have narrowed down my possibilities to Yokohama Avid Envigors, Dunlop Signature CS, and Goodyear Fortera HL in the needed 235/60/18 size. Anyone have any experience with these brands or any other suggestions? The ratings on TireRack.com for the Yokohama and Goodyear tires are similar but the Dunlops don't have sufficient ratings yet to detect a trend. Price-wise they are all reasonably priced so that is not a big issue. Chime in folks. What do you think or what have you done already to replace those crap Bridgestones that came on our Santa Fes? Inquiring minds want to know. ;)
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    omar6575omar6575 Member Posts: 24
    well, about a month ago, i put a set of yokohama envigor on my 08 santa fe awd. there is a few things you should know first. when buying 18" tires even though price for you is not an issued, its very expensive and in the event of replacing one tire w/mounting and balance the prices can reach over $190 per tire from any tire shop, its a very good idea to have an alignment done . the rear suspension on this santa fe its very sensitive to potholes and settings can easily change (camber). also i m running 35 psi on each tire, hyundai recomends 30 psi but at that level i find the ride very soft. with this vehicles its good to have a firm ride. the envigor works excelent with the awd system on this santa fe suvs.
    i m in nyc, we have seem alot of snow this month. i drove and comutted on snow every day like if it was not even there, when buried at 16"s of snow on the ground, this tires can pretty much dig themselfs out easily with the awd lock button on. on dry pavement the give excelent feed back and handling is greatly improved. you ll find your self cornering with more confidence and higher speeds. the steering response is great . the road noise is very low, this tires have a 560 tread rating, its good to say under normal driving they should last about 60,000 miles. i was looking at the michelin lattitude tours, but the tread wear was about half and the price was over $245 per tire (including balance and mounting from a tire shop). hopefully someone here can give you a review from another tire makers. just remember, make sure they are using the same santa fe w/ awd, my cooworker went with the fwd version with traction control and i driven the fwd version on dry roads and is pretty much the same but on wet surfaces rain, snow and ice without the awd its a very different story. good luck with your seach hope this helps. :)
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    tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    Thanks for the feedback. My Sf is an 08 Limited AWD and the local Monro Muffler and Brake will sell the Yokohamas to me for $180 each, mounted, balanced, the whole works. The same tire can be had on Tirerack.com for $132 each but until I add in the shipping and mounting costs, the difference for four mounted and balanced is only $62. And if I purchase from Monro, I get free tire rotations every 5000 miles and a free alignment check so I am leaning towards them right now. And your snow experience is the info I was looking for. I live in Johnstown, PA and if there is one thing we get in the winter, it is SNOW! ;)
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    wdjoewdjoe Member Posts: 1
    I too had this problem at 66,500 miles. Same stabilizer links. Looks like this is a major issue with these vehicles after I have doing quite a few Google searches on this issue.
    Hyundai should have a recall for this item.
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    myhyun2010myhyun2010 Member Posts: 7
    My 2010 Santa Fe driver side door dosen't open or close properly. The door will hinge up when it's closing and hinge down when I'm opening it. I have to close it harder than normal to close the door. Does anyone have or heard of this problem before in other Santa Fe or cars? I told the dealership of the problem and they said that's how it is. It's the manufacture that sets the latcher on door and the striker on the frame.
    If anyone have a solution on this issue, please let me know. Thanks.
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    loraolorao Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 SantaFe too and have had the sane problem for 2 years and nowthat my warrante is about to expire they have finally said it is the sway bar and have ordered the parts
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    howzelhowzel Member Posts: 2
    Originally, my mechanic said he couldn't find anything wrong. I had him replace the stabilizer links anyway, and the clunking/noise problem was solved. It seems like they generally don't spend much time diagnosing this problem, considering how common it is on this and other Hyundai forums.
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