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Hyundai Santa Fe Maintenance and Repair (2007+)

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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oh that sounds like fuel injector cleaner---waste of money.

    A coolant change is both age and miles related so after a couple of years it's not really a bad idea.
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    omar6575omar6575 Member Posts: 24
    well, remember this guys are there to run a business, if they can get you to do anything on top of any warranty claims its surely money in their pocket,.

    at 25k miles the coolant change might be a bit early. However the induction service might be relevant. I have a 2008 santa fe ltd with the 3.3L engine.
    Around 32k during cold stars the truck would stumble for a few seconds after starting, and no check engine light. i did some checking on my own and found it. the problem was an unusual amount of carbon and soot in the throttle body plate. it turns out this modern cars have an exhaust re circulating system that re routes exhaust gas back into the intake manifold and that's how the soot and build up gets there. The solution was simple, went to autozone and purchase a throttle body cleaner (4.99+tax) also went to hyundai to purchase a throttle body gasket ($3.00 + tax) then remove intake plastic tubes then 3 10mm bolts for the throttle body, you don't need to remove the harness its long enough for you to spray and clean all the build up on the plate. i currently have about 41k and issues with the engine so far... if your not mechanically incline i suggest you invest on the induction cleaning service.around 35K just to prevent any issues. hope this helps...
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    chucko6chucko6 Member Posts: 81
    Thanks for the info--- I did ask if Induction Service meant cleaning the Injectors. Was told that was part of the procedure but also
    included other steps ??
    What bothered me was that I could not find the word " Induction" on the Maintainence checklist.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2012
    If your car is running nicely, you don't need injector service, is my opinion. Unlike say the oil filter or the radiator, the injectors usually never need service on a modern car.

    Besides, all quality gasolines have additives for this sort of thing.
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    mons00nmons00n Member Posts: 1
    I have had the same problem.
    I have a 2007 santa fe and had it replaced under warranty
    the day we got it back it started doing the same thing as before (with the fuel guage) we didnt have time to return it that day and the next time we were abe to return the car for it to be replaced they said it wasnt under warranty anymore so I had a fit right on the showroom floor and guess what... I got it repaired for free :-) with a phone call later saying how sorry they were lol
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    connectionconnection Member Posts: 1
    Hi there..I read your post re: issue with Santa Fe surging when in idling. I own a 2004 Santa Fe and am having similar issues.. When stoped at intersection on idle it lurches forward and I put in neutral. when backing up it stalls. My dealer in Scottsdale kept the car for 6 days and charged me $800 for repairs, but since their are no indicator lights and the computer isn't showing anything..they don't know what to do..I'm at a complete loss..

    What was the outcome of your problems?
    Thanks,
    Betsy
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    sea2seasea2sea Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2011 Hyundai Santa Fe. The first time I lost power -- going from 50 to 20 in a matter of seconds, and the engine light went on, I read the manual which said the gas cap was loose. No mention of bringing it to the dealer. So, I tightened the cap and the car started and drove for almost a month just like before. Two days ago I was driving 70 on a dual lane and the same thing -- 70 to 30 in a matter of seconds. Push on accelerator and couldn't go above 30. Got to side of road and checked gas cap. Sat a few minutes rereading the manual. The car started just fine and I drove on to town. The next day I was driving up a hill and went over a traffic bump and it did it again. I kept going this time and could drive no faster than 25 through the city to the dealership and up hills I was going about 10mph.

    At the dealership they could not look at it right away and when I went back out to check it was fine. Has anyone had this problem of losing power on the 2011 or new Santa Fe's? I read several postings of the previous model but only one -- a 2008 -- of the current model.
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    stevewfdstevewfd Member Posts: 1
    Same thing yesterday with my 2008 V6
    Quote from Repair slip
    "Verify Concern, GDS Test Code P2106, P1295, P2135.
    Perform Bulletin 10.FL.010, Replace TPS Sensor and
    UPDATED ECM

    1 35107-3C100-NFFF TH'SENSOR ASSY (TPS)

    I guess time will tell if it was fixed

    Hope this helps you
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    tenpin288tenpin288 Member Posts: 804
    For you owners of the 2nd gen SF, I have an 08 SF Limited AWD and was wondering what type of mileage you are seeing from your front and rear struts/shocks before replacing them. I am at just a little under 40k miles and the ride, while OK, is getting a little "sloppy" and was thinking about changing them out (or I may just wait a little while and drop some coin on the new 13 SF Sport AWD!). If you have changed yours, at what mileage did you do it, what brand did you use, and did you see any change in ride/handling? TIA. :)
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    greenpowergreenpower Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have the almost same problem. I have 2011 Santa Fe AWD V6. The first time it lost power on late of the June while I drove it downhill. I took it to dealership and they couldn't find any problem, no code nothing. The second time happened on Sep. 17th. Same thing happened and no code. They replaced a sensor and told me this sensor could be the problem. Now I am afraid to drive this car. I just called a lawyer to see if they can sue Hyundai or not. What did you do about your car?
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    pickyppickyp Member Posts: 1
    edited October 2012
    We have a 2008 Santa Fe, bought new. Approximately once/twice a year, we have this same issue .... driving at moderate speed, suddenly lose power, pull to the side of the road, engine off, wait a minute, engine restarts fine. On 3 occasions we took it to the dealer and had them check it. No error codes, and they said 'your fuel cap must have been loose'. I have no idea what is going on with it and thought it must be isolated to our car. But if others are experiencing it, I would have thought it was potentially a VERY dangerous and serious defect. How many others are experiencing this I wonder?
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    obktobkt Member Posts: 35
    Does your gas cap click when tightening? Book says it should click at least twice when tightening. My 2010 cap doesn't click anymore, and although I haven't had the problem you mention, maybe I could if the cap loosens. Meant to tell them about it when I had my last service but forgot.
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    somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    any changes made or is everything still stock? had any maintenance recently done or around the time it occurs?
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    srz948srz948 Member Posts: 76
    I have a 2008 Santa Fe Ltd. with dual auto climate control. The passenger side blows the correct temperature setting(warm) but the drivers side only blows cold no matter what the temp setting or mode. Still under warranty but can't get to a dealer soon. Does anyone have any idea what the problem may be. On Long Island, NY hit by Hurricane Sandy last week and a snowstorm last night.
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    Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Sounds like a stuck "blend door" (diverter door) or a defective actuator that works that door. So, basically, a flap that is not working and thus not directing the warm air where it should go.
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    jeepincjjeepincj Member Posts: 4
    just reflectors... We bought ours new in 2003 and they never lit
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    08santa_fe08santa_fe Member Posts: 1
    Our Santa Fe had a similar problem, took it to the dealer twice, couldn't find prob. Third time the charm, back cylinder head needs to be pulled, all valves and lifters replaced. All under warranty!
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    chucko6chucko6 Member Posts: 81
    How long ago did you have your problem ?

    Most 08's have been out of warranty for a couple of years.
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    frustwcarprob2frustwcarprob2 Member Posts: 1
    Same problems with PASSENGER AIRBAG, GAS GUAGE SENSORS AND REAR DOOR LOCK. Things that still work on my dads 1969 volvo!! Love the car, hate the simple yet expensive to fix issues!
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    tonyfashtonyfash Member Posts: 2
    I just bought santa fe recently after driving home from the dealer, i parked the car in my drive way, on second day wont start. I also noticed a lost of power when driving, the engine is running but there is no response from the accelerator.The car was towed to hyundai but there was no error code on the system. They did so many cold start and the car started fine. I got the car back after a week with them on my way home lost of power to set off. I noticed that I have to put the gear in Neutral and rev the engine before the car will accelerate. I took the car to another garage same thing no code and they confirm it is not the gear box. Please, can anyone tell what the problem might be, because I love this car and I really want to enjoy driving it.
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    travel143travel143 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2011 hyundai santa fe 4cy and am having an increasing amount of this problem the longer i have this car. it has done this since i purchased the car new from the dealer. if i pull out in traffic from a dead stop, the car will hesitate and then i have to gun the acceralator to get the car to move forward to get out of incoming traffic. the dealership cannot duplicate the problem..any suggestions as to what could be the problem>>> thanks!
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    dz302dz302 Member Posts: 26
    It's that STUPID fly-by-wire accelerator pedal. Step on the pedal, wait 1/2 second, then the car goes. Bring back the MECHANICAL connection from pedal to throttle body.
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    omar6575omar6575 Member Posts: 24
    Do you have an awd model? How.many miles does it have?
    The other member is correct about the drive by wire system. Especially on 4 cyl modes, dbw is very pronounce delay between throttle and the pedal sensor. Its not.much u.can .really,, besides get a v6 where more low torque is available. Another.issue u have against u is.the transmision, their units are very reluctant to downshifts, they are gear for economy.
    The curb weight of the santa fe is somewhere over 4700 lbs. For.a four.banger its a tall order to accomplish good of the line acceleration.
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    agouletagoulet Member Posts: 2
    For my car I had all the same issues and it took my dealer a year to figure out the problem, and I ended up calling Hyundai Canada to get satisfaction. They replaced the Throttle Positioning Sensor. I would start there and see if you get a fix that way. It should be covered under warranty.
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    steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    If you were recently denied auto warranty coverage for a surprising reason, please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, January 9, 2013 to tell your story to a reporter.
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    tonyfashtonyfash Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the reply but I am still unable to find solution to the problem. I have decided to record the problem on video and place it on youtube. I will be happy if someone can have a look and advise on what to do regarding the problem.
    Starting problem
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIlqUniswlU
    After starting the car starts to smoke. This is the smoking video..
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bf3T2YGkFGI
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    dz302dz302 Member Posts: 26
    You've got a blown head gasket or a blown intake gasket. I'd lean more toward the head gasket, however. Get it fixed right away!
    You'll destroy your engine if you don't repair it ASAP!
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    dnm712dnm712 Member Posts: 1
    I'm having the same trouble with my 6 month old 2012 Sante Fe, only 12,500 miles. It has been to the dealership 2x in 10 days and the only thing they've done is to reset the ECM, which has not resolved the issue. The first time I was driving about 45MPH the check engine light went on and within 2 minutes the car suddenly lost power, the accelerator would not work and I had to roll to the side of the road. The second time this happened I was driving around 60MPH and again suddenly dropped power and had to pull off the road. In both instances turning the car on and off about 2-3 times cleared the issue (though the check engine light stayed on for about a day following the incident). However, I was able to drive normally again.

    As you can imagine losing acceleration without warning is extremely dangerous and I'm concerned the next time it happens I could have a tractor trailer truck plow right over me...! The dealership cannot recreate the incident and doesn't know what the issue is. It seems like a lot of people are experiencing this issue, I don't understand how the dealership cannot know what the cause may be.

    PickyP, sea2sea, or anyone else with this problem: did you ever figure out what caused the issue, and how was it resolved?
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    omar6575omar6575 Member Posts: 24
    the situation you are experiencing is called (lymp mode) this condition occurs whenever the is a lost of connection between any of the systems that control engine rpm ( pedal sensor, throttle position sensor, map Sensor, if you have an AWD model, the all wheel drive coupler in the rear of the truck, ) this cars are equipped with a CAN Protocol ( control area network ) all systems in the car communicate with one another in other to provide safety ( ESC and ABS systems) engine management (fuel trim and timing) transmission logic (adaptive learning program) you need to have the dealer do a FREEZE FRAME CHECK on your onboard computer, to me personally I think its your Throttle position sensor that's defective, remember this car has a drive by wire system, hope this helps.
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    ronkennedy61ronkennedy61 Member Posts: 23
    Dealer says "both rear marker lights are out". I checked and they are out when headlight are on. Brake and turn signaI lights work. I am concerned that both "markers" are out for reasons other that worn out bulb. Owner's Manual tells how to replace bulb, and I want to do that myself, but no info on which bulb(s) to buy. Only non-Hyundai electrical on Santa Fe is trailer wiring harness , which is working fine, or so I observe. Dealer wants $56 to replace both bulbs. Any advice on this will be much appreciated.
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    etguyetguy Member Posts: 3
    Yes,same car,been there, done that. It was a royal pain.The floats move a wiper that is several little spring wires ,like a little brush that ride over contacts on a printed circuit board. They wear out and break off and you get flakey gas gauge readings. There is one on the left mounted on the fuel pump and one on the right called the remote sender. they're wired in series so you end up pulling both to see which one is bad. The brush is part of the float arm pivot and snaps right off but not available separately;they make you buy the whole float and sensor assembly for almost $100. Left and right are different part numbers. To get the senders out you need a ring removal tool made by OTC that goes for $60 and even more from 2 other brands that OTC's parent company,SPX owns. This tool also fits various GM, Mopar and others. You have to pull the back seat that is screwed to the floor with self tapping screws. When the screws come out metal from the floor is often in the threads. Clean the bolts and run a thread cleaning tap ,not a cutting tap through the holes before reinstalling the seat or it can get nasty. Guess how I know. You also need a fuel line disconnect tool when you're playing in gas to get the senders out. After you flip back the rug access flaps there is a plate over hole in the floor stuck down with putty. Pry off and they will stick back down when finished-no problem. The job is not brain surgery but it is time consuming,expensive and messy. I think I'd want $500 to do it.
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    gunga64gunga64 Member Posts: 271
    Do not get Nexen tires, they wear out fast, for a little more money I would look at a BF Goodrich, Yokohama, or Michelin.

    I have the Nexen, as well as had an alignment done twice for the two and half years I have had the tires and they wear out fast and uneven. Now one set is out of round.

    I think you will be happy with any of these three brands above.
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    thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    My fiance has Nexen Tires on her 2007 GLS (16" alloys, not the bigger wheels on SE/Limited models) and after 43,000 miles she has plenty of treadlife left, with no real stress showing on the sidewalls. They are rotated every 5,000 miles (at O/C intervals) and driven both in town and on highway trips. I would recommend Nexen tires based on this performance.
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    alman08alman08 Member Posts: 282
    edited July 2013
    Hi all, just want to share an experience that I have had with an 07 Santa Fe (3.3L V6) that might be able to help many others on here. If your 2nd gen Santa Fe have experience the following, this may apply to you:

    *flashing seat belt and batt dashboard warning light for no apparent reason
    *replacement battery does not exactly install properly

    For the flashing light, that indicates that there is a problem with the charging system with the on board computer, whether there is a dying battery or alternator problem (and let's hope it's the battery).

    When you go look for a replacement battery, many auto part stores and even the dealers will tell you, according to the manufacture, that the replacement battery is part number 124R. DO NOT buy/use it. 124R is approximately 1/4" shorter in height than the OEM (Korean made) battery. You will run into a problem connecting the positive terminal cable not being able to secure onto the positive post on the battery properly. It will give a bad fitting and led to a bad connection, and can and will create that flashing warning lights problems. Since basically no one in here will carry the Korean made battery, your likely alternative should be part number 24F with the battery height that is exactly 232mm. Or if you can find a 124R that hasa battery height of 232mm, that would be excellent, but according to all the stores that I have looked, all 124R are 225mm in height.

    After installing the battery, start the car, run on P for 2 mins, run on D (with your foot on the brake) for 2 mins, run on P with max AC for 2 mins, then run on D (with your foot on the brake) with max AC for 2 mins. Turn off engine. Turn on engine, and don't care how you accomplish this, but with the car in D, press and release the brake for approximately 25 to 30 times (drive around town?). The flashing warning light will be magically gone.

    I am not a certified mechanic, so do this at your own risk. Hopefully this will help some of you frustrated Santa Fe owners.
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    somedai1somedai1 Member Posts: 416
    uneven wear would not be the tires--- possibly problem with alignment and/or suspension/linkage. inside tread seems to wear out too soon on this vehicle... you would have to request for a specific camber to adjust for this in an alignment... most shops just get the camber within spec regardless of how different each tire's adjustment is. a tech who Is diligent and takes pride in their work will try to get them as close to identical as is called for for the vehicle. otherwise - the car is set up to wear the insides sooner than later. Sumitomo sport truck tires if you don't mind road noise have thicker tread and may last longer. Right now I have Firestone Destination LE2 - very quiet - have yet to see how long they last... a tech suggested to get the camber zeroed out all around - but clearly this will make the vehicle handle differently even if the tires last longer-- can't have everything...
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    gas57gas57 Member Posts: 2
    slk70 said:

    I also had a similar problem, and as trebl points out, it is a wiring issue trhough the fuse box and not a sensor issue. Dealership worked with the techs and rerouted the wiring directly to the dash/display solving the problem.

    [EDIT] - Looking at the work order, the language is as follows:

    "Tech confirmed fault with engine compartment fuse box. Tech performed following repair per Hyundai Tech Line. Jumped connecter B-39 to D-12 and D-6 to B-45. Outside temperature reading normally at this time."

    Whether this is the best fix is unclear. My guess is there will be a TSB or even a recall notice in the near future. Limiteds are the only SF's with the problem since only they have the outside temp display.

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    gas57gas57 Member Posts: 2
    slk70 I'm having the same issue with the stuck outside temp would you happen to know the location of the B-39 in the front fuse box? Much Appreciated
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    KemKem Member Posts: 1
    Just have a question I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS and it have the manual temperature control, can I put in a automatic one?also it does not come with the radio control buttons on the steering wheel, can that also be installed?
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