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Subaru Forester (up to 2005)
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Comments
Tom
Can anyone who has seen the 06's comment on this?
Bob
I read a lot of good reviews about it, and was curious.
I sensed the engine was strong, but I felt I could not connect with it due to an extremely mushy pedal feel. Road feel was nil.
What a pleasure to get back home into my "tight" 2001 Forester.
..dealers clueless here on arr date....
..thought I saw "June" somewhere..
..nice to know interior (from avail storage feet[3] standpoint) looks the same!
...I can just feel that Naval Reserve pay squirming in my rear pocket.........ez
The Subaru dealer hitch is a class I hitch rated to 2,000 lbs. BUT it is rated only to a 1 7/8 ball. It will probably take a 2 inch ball. I am having a custom Class II hitch put on with a brake controller cheaper than the dealer hitch.
There are calculators that can help you figure these things out. Quite nice web page on towing actually. Check this out. http://www.rvtowingtips.com/what-can-i-tow.htm It has the Excell based calculators as links. It shows that even I will have no problem with my 1,500 lb trailer as long as I am careful and used the breaks that are being installed on the trailer. All the spec information for the calculators is on line. Just do simple searches (e.g. Forester curb weight) to find it all.
Subaru does say that you are "required" to use breaks on the towed vehicle on anything over 1,000 lbs. But I am sure motorcycle trailers won't even come close... :shades:
The Xterra is ok(slight lightness in the steering) when using this setup.....but I figured the Forester would be a bit to small for this setup. And after an unsuccessful search for 2" receivers for the Forester, I think the single rail trailer will be the way to go..... But I've looked at the sight you recommended, and there's a lot of good info on hitch sizes and tongue weights there.
Thanks for your input!!!! I have no problem with towing a trailer, but I'll keep looking into the specs from the site you suggested..
In your experience, how are the insurance rates on Foresters? I realize there are a lot of factors involved.... I'm in the process of getting the coverage for my Xterra from my agent...
Thanks in advance! :confuse:
Jim
'98 L
Why would the cargo capacity numbers be so much lower for the 2006 forester? Isn't reducing the cargo space a step in the wrong direction? I'm wonding if I should pick up a 2005 Forester for the extra cargo space.
thanks
Today"s question is related to extended warranty. The in-service date will be 36 months tomorrow - that will be the last chance to get an extended SOA warranty. Of course the drivetrain warranty is in effect for 2 more years & 37K (I only drive about 12K / year). I was able to determine that it has had 4 oil changes so that should qualify it for the balance of original factory warranty.
I was able to find on-line prices at Curry Subaru (in Maine?) that appear to be discounted. 6yrs / 60K - original miles w $100 deductable for $530 for the classic warranty (covers all major components, but not as extensive as original 3 year bumper to bumper).
I can afford $1000 out of pocket expenses, but not $2,000. However, it seems highly unlikely, given the Forester's ratings & my mild driving habits) that something not covered under the drivetrain that will cost more than $500 - $1000 will go wrong in the next 3 years. Thus I am inclined to pass on the SOA Advantage warranty.
BUT, I thought I should get the opinions of the experts. I enter the buying zone tomorrow afternoon
for example, what should i pay for the following:
1. a 6yr/80K, Gold Plus, $0 deductible plan?
2. a 3yr/36K, 7.5K interval maintenance plan?
also, this may sound like a stupid question, but if the orginal and extended warranties only require that maintenance be done at 7.5K intervals, why get the more expensive 3.75K interval maintenance plan?
thanks-
-neil
ps the warranty and maitenance plan is for a 2005 Forester XS that i'm getting for $200 below invoice (plus i'm getting the $1500 rebate).
-Dennis
I took your advice and contacted Subaru customer service this morning to ask about the 2006 Forester's cargo space being reduced by 10%. The answer they gave was that the cargo space specs on in the press release are correct, and that the reduced cargo space on the 2006 Forester is due to the "restyling" of the car.
I guess that form trumped function in this Forester redesign...
-subspicious
Thank you, John
John
Check out this post:
eps105, "Subaru Forester (SUVs Board)" #15940, 20 Jan 2005 10:35 pm
I also strongly suggest you get a 4-wheel alignment from a reputable shop when you get new tires.
Hope this helps,
Elliot
John
Just Checked at Sears-$75 per tire for the Falkens. Anybody else with a good word for this tire?
I have never noticed this with any of the other 3 cars I've owned nor any of several dozen I've rented. Are Foresters configured such that the top of the door near the window hangs inward moreso than most cars???
cf :confuse:
Tire rack will give you a list of 3-4 tires that are most popular for a particular model. When I checked the Kuhmo HP4 716 was amoung the most popular for Foresters.
Here is the bottom line: These Kuhmos are in the top 5 H rated times for tire rack & are only $53 each. They have a great balance of handling, wet & dry traction, are quiet & smooth riding. I know cuz I have them on my '92 Civic Si & '04 A4 1.8T. I cannot see the rational of buying well know branded tires that cost twice as much.(BF Goodrich Traction T/A-H, Goodyear TripleTred, Michelin HydroEdge) for minimal or no improvement in performance.
I don't know about the availability of Kuhmos on the E Coast, but in the Pacific NW you can order them from many stores & even Sears carries them.
The visors were expensive due to the shipping cost from England to New York. The dealer wrapped both visor sets into one package to save a little on shipping costs. The total cost for both sets came to about $400. Each set cost a little less than $100 and the shipping was a little over $100. I have zero regrets about spending $200 for my set and will get them again when I get my next Forester.
The visor is one piece of translucent dark-gray smoked plastic that extends from the side view mirror to the back edge of the rear door window. It attaches to the black plastic trim piece that runs just above the side windows using 2-way tape and 5 metal clips. It is a very secure attachment. The installation instructions are excellent and the visors are overall pretty easy to install.
The visors are so unobtrusive that you really have to look closely to even know they are there. And, they do a great job of keeping the rain out with the windows cracked open. There is no vision obstruction and I have not noticed any wind noise problems over the past 10 months. This is a Subaru part and the word Subaru is embossed in the visor over the rear window. I am thoroughly impressed with these visors would definitely get them again even considering the $200 price tag.
for example, what should i pay for the following:
1. a 6yr/80K, Gold Plus, $0 deductible plan?
2. a 3yr/36K, 7.5K interval maintenance plan?
also, this may sound like a stupid question, but if the orginal and extended warranties only require that maintenance be done at 7.5K intervals, why get the more expensive 3.75K interval maintenance plan? i guess the 7.5K plan covers the "major" maintenance, but you'd still have to pay out of pocket for the oil changes that don't fall on 7.5K intervals.
thanks-
-neil
ps the warranty and maitenance plan i'm look for is for a 2005 Forester XS that i'm getting for $200 below invoice (plus i'm getting the $1500 rebate).
- After first 3.75K miles/3 Months change oil & filter with dino oil -- from what i've read, i think this allows the engine to break in and the dino oil to fill in gaps etc.
- At 7.5K miles/6 Months change oil & filter with synth oil, and at every 7.5K miles/6 Months thereafter change oil & filter with synth oil.
FYI, the car will get 2/3 of its miles as highway miles; we don't plan on doing any rough driving, only 4 months of weekend winter driving -- from san francisco bay area up to mountains near lake tahoe for skiing; and, we're hoping to keep the car for AT LEAST 6 years/90K miles.
thanks-
-neil
http://partner.subaru.ch/public/bild2.asp?bild=E3610SA000
John
That said, if you want prices, google Subaru Advantage & check out on line deals. Curry Subaru had the best prices I could find & listed all the coverages and option on their site (I cannot recall the site name, but it was not an offical Subaru site. I believe it had the word "products" in it -- was 2nd or 3rd site that came up on Google search).
any others?
Has anyone tried this fix: ttp://www.geocities.com/samiam_68/SubaruCCS/SSC_Fix.htm
If so, did it do the trick?
In the winter, I find myself turning it up to 78-80. but then I no longer touch it. And I do travel alot between 5 states. When it's Cold outside and the vehicle has reached it's preset temp, I find the upper dash outlets blow cooler air than from the floor vents
In the Summer I leave it about 68. A/C seems to work better at regulating the temp, .
YES I Installed a small fan on the venturi inlet (similar to the fix described). What this does is allows faster response to changes in temp by keeping the airflow constant over the thermalcouple (interior temp sensor). The factory setup uses the blower to create a venturi effect sucking air in slowly at lower speeds thereby slowing the temperature change response. It's not an endall fix, but it does do away with some slow, wide temperature swings especially in the winter.
My $.02
neil: sounds like a plan. Synthetic should easily last that long given you're not under the extreme driving category.
Those vents look good, by the way. I just open my door, and slam it once, then open it again. That shakes the water off.
You can thank aerodynamics and fuel economy for the disappearance of rain gutters. Forester actually has them near the roof rails, but there are a couple of inches on the sides where rain accumulates, that'll drip down.
HAL (Mr. Climate Control) can be tamed if you get a 2003, and 2004 and later models are tamer to begin with.
-juice
URL with a Picture......I Must add, I am impressed.
http://partner.subaru.ch/public/bild2.asp?bild=E3610SA000
Yeah they look good, but $200 is a bundle. Most of these in the US cost about $50-70 for all 4 windows. I would sure like to find some for less than $100.
Do we have an entraprenuer in this crowd who wants to try and swing some sort of group buy to save on shipping?
AFTER the purchase :surprise: , I discovered that the Subie had been rigged for towing behind some sort of RV (had an electrical connection in the lower grill fascia). So now I wonder if the 23K miles are miles that it was actually driven or if that number includes the miles it was towed. Anyone know if towed miles would show on odometer? I cant think of any negatives to it being towed -- am I missing anything :confuse: I hope not cause it is a done deal now
If interested in purchase details Forester buying experience forum
Thanks, Kathy
In my XT, I switched to a blend at 3,750 and Mobil1 5W30 at 7,500 miles. The M1 sheared down to a low 30 weight in under 6,000 miles (it's actually low to begin with). Since you have an XS, it's probably not quite as hard on the oil as a turbo.
Run your synthetic for 6,000 miles and have it analyzed by
www.blackstone-labs.com . When I had the oil on my XT analyzed at 22,000 miles and the metals were just starting to come down to normal levels.
-Dennis
Still, they often age gracefully, we saw one that sold on E-bay with 278k miles, so yours is still young compared to that one.
I would get the timing belt done because I believe your DOHC EJ25 is an interference engine, i.e. if the belt breaks the valves could hit the top of the pistons and that would likely be a total loss. (can others confirm that?)
Did you get an estimate for the work?
-juice
When we pulled back into the parking lot he noticed that his auto glass guy was there so we brought him into the discussion. He found a piece of the windshield trim that was loose. The frame around the windshield has studs that this trim clips onto but one of them was obstructed by an excess of glazing material.
The trim looked perfect when the car was parked but lifted as the car accelerated causing the wind to flow under the strip and whistle. By lowering the driver window--only a couple inches away from this defect, I was able to change the air current around this area so as to stop the whistling.
Since Forester windshields are rock magnets, this could have been sloppy glazing of a replacement windshield (I purchased the car "pre-driven").
The glass guy didn't recommend trying to clean up the glazing compound because it might damage the glass. Instead, he told me to slide that bracket down to where it wasn't touching the clogged stud and glue the trim down with some (silicone) bathroom caulk.
Whistling a happier tune now,
David
Regards,
Kyle
-juice
A 215/60-15 should be shorter, not taller, than a 205/70-15 so I would expect the speedometer to show faster than actual speed. The equivalent 60 series tire would be 225/60-15.
does anyone know of an online calculator to determine how much it will throw off my speedo?
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
DaveM
1. dino oil & filter change at 3.75K/3M, 7.5K/6M, and 12.25K/9M.
2. synth oil & filter change at 15K/12M, and thereafter every 7.5K/6M
thanks again-
-neil
Regards,
Kyle
I see the Falkens are 75$?? I don't know about the Forester but like the TA's. I also hear I get to hydroplane at about 15 to 20,000 miles on the Yokohama's. I can't wait. But... I had BF Goodrich TA's on my 99 Outback Sport as original equipment and got 75,000 on em. I put another set on and when I traded in the 99 for my Forester I had 147K miles on two sets of tires and still had another 10K left. They only changed out two of em when they resold it...
Now that is a good tire...