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Thanks to advise.
If it has the ZF transmission then there aren't any more worries than buying a 2003
Mercedes or BMW. That being said, anything that is 6 years old is capable of
having problems. If you have a powertrain warranty that covers engine, transmission, and rear end, then that is not a factor anyway. What you would then have to worry about is every thing else. I would always recommend a more complete warranty on
an older luxury car if you can get it. However, this is a transmission forum and you
answered your own question when you said it has a p/t warranty. The car itself is AWESOME!! Just get a good warranty, do all your maintenance as prescribed when due, and enjoy it. The car is a real stud. Very hard to find a car you will love as much.
Watch out for coolant leaks, They should be taken care of instantly. Any overheating problems warrant immediate attention. Don't drive it if it starts running warm. Tow it.
full hide upholstery you can take most dogs anywhere and just wipe the interior wh
ith a damp rag to clean it up. Sharp toenails are a danger, but not nearly somuch as in a
car with cheap upholstery. I don't take my dogs in my cars with cloth upholstery, but
I have had no real problems in my Jag.s. No Puppies should be left alone in any car.
Dont forget to moisturize your leather twice per year. Good hand lotion with "lanolin" is usually as good as fancy leather creams. Best of luck, Soberguy
Soberguy
I find that for cleaning leather - real leather - of everyday normal dirt- Murphy's Oil
soap does a bang up job followed by a good rubdown with beeswax leather-fit oil. Neither of these products leave any transfer residue on the leather to ruin clothing and the beeswax keeps the leather supple and somewhat waterproof - good if there are grandkids around making spills, etc. and it also protects the leather from the sun's ultra-voilet rays - and that should help to keep the leather from drying up and cracking. Oh boy, is this cat going to be a lot of work - it's already been washed every day since we got it, vacuumed twice, dusted, and next the leather. Soon the mechanic, I suppose. We are having fun - can't believe how FAST this cat takes off - and square corners - man, my old Dodge Shadow would, ah well, no point in going there. Thanks again.
like going to heaven. Enjoy your car. Take yours dogs with you. Be happy. Save
your pennies. And, when the extended warranty runs out, go get a used XJ-R.
Preferably a Vanden Plas. Of course, when your ready to trade, the new XF may
be within your range by then. Or, you might just want a newer S-type. The XFs have
destroyed their resale value, and we should be able to get just as good a bargain
in 2 or three years as now. However, there are very few cars as good as the one just bought. Regardless of price, that is just about as good as automotive excellence gets. The purist who doesn't want a large car will stand a good chance of liking it better than every other sport sedan. I know that I definitely prefer a V-8
S-Type to my '05 BMW 545i sport package. The E class Merc.s are numb, The Audi.s aren't powerful enough. Unless you count the Maserati Quatroporte, then
you just might have the worlds best sport sedan. Life is Good!!
soberguyjaguar
Regards:
OldCEM
There's usually a bunch of the Jaguar Service CDs for sale on EBay - fairly cheap. I 've got one that covers the models through the 2003 model year - think I paid $20 for it a couple of years ago. Some of the internet Jag forums also list sites that'll let you download the info off the CDs free as well. I've been checking EBay periodically - looking for a CD that covers the 06 model year.
Regards:
OldCEM
expectations versus reality in this case. All cars break. The only questions are what and when. If you purchased a new trans. and then it went out again in only 20,000mi.
then that is a bad thing. Definately. The trans is one of the weak points of this particular model. Every car has something. In this car it's the trans. I wish I knew more about your driving style and the circumstances because even this trans lasts longer than 20,k mi.
It does however have a weakness when parked on a slope. This trans developes problems when placed in park on a slope which will leave the weight of the car resting on the transmission. There are others with this problem and it can be cured by setting the parking brake before placing the trans in park. Not doing so is commonly known as hanging the car on it's transmission. We see this a lot in Oklahoma because of all the sloped driveways (it rains Hard here). If that is not your problem then I would look at the other things that can cause transmission problems which dont have anything to do with the actual transmission. I did a car recently for a customer who had constant transmission failure lights and default to limp mode. He had a bad transmission relay ($15.00) and then we found a defective speed sensor. After that he came back furious
2 months later that his transmission was defaulting to limp mode again. He could fix it by
pulling over and switching the engine off and waiting for 30 seconds then switching the engine back on again. He would then have full performance for about 2 days then his trans light would come back on and the car would go back in to limp mode.(3rd gear only) We pulled codes from his ECU and found that the engine was missfiring. We had reminded him repeatedly that it was past due for his new spark plugs but he had always declined because of the costs of fixing his transmission. He was always good about keeping his car clean and we found out that he had been washing his engine as well.
The spark plug boots were 9 years old and the last time he washed his car he apparrently filled 2 of his spark plug shafts with water. When the engine computer sensed the missfires it put the car into the default/limp home mode.(3rd gear only). We
refused to fix the car unless he caught up on his spark plug and boot and coil maintenance. That cost him almost $1000.00 dollars but it was overdue by 21,000 miles. This car has been into my shop 4 times for transmission complaints. Once,
when it was 8 years old for a new transmission. 3 times after that for just plain age and wear that were triggering transmission defaults. He has been in twice since then for oil changes with no more complaints. The ZF transmission starting in 2003 will not go into default no matter what the engine is doing. It also lasts about twice as long as the one
you have. However, it is not rebuildable. When it wears out, you just replace it with a new one. The parking pall in the ZF is as strong as American cars and the Parking brake now sets automatically. That doesnt, however, help you. The weaknesses endemic to your model are yours and you can learn to understand and live with them or sue. I wish i could get my hands on your car so that I could see if you really have another transmission problem. If you do, and if its not your fault, then I can certainly understand your angst. It is just so unlikely that you could put in a new transmission and then have that one go out so soon due to a factory defect that I wish I could check it more thoroughly. Its possible, definately possible, but unlikely.
Soberguy
represents the year. 2=2002 model, 3=2003 model in american standardized vin number codes. soberguy.
Canadian cars are the same as American. If you have the 4.2 engine then you have the 6 speed ZF transmision. This is a Very, Very, high performance car. Forget the vaseline, (you're just turning me on) and have a good tech maintain it for you. Amatuers
can ruin an ownership experience. The most common problem with high output cars is fluid leaks. If you dont have a lift to allow you to see the undercarriage when you change the oil then you could miss things that you would like to know about before they become a problem. Just a suggestion, but that's a really high tech car. Working on it your self is like deciding to give birth at home. It might very well turn out OK, but, if it doesn't, well,
the results could be heartbreaking. Wishing you the best, Soberguy.
We're using Christo's JITS download for a manual and that seems to be working out just fine. This cat has a lot going for it but just a few bugs still to be ironed out - headlights are all out of whack, the bonnet flew up on me the other day at l00 km's per hour scaring me half to death and putting a few dents in the bonnet. Seems the safety catch took it upon itself to malfunction and the front brakes have suddenly developed a very nice shutter - perhaps a warped disc, who knows. One thing at a time. So far, these are the only "repairs" we'll be taking on ourselves.
Replacing the headlight/ballast was a big eye-opener as to just how complicated this Cat is.
Brits get the good stuff? I have to question that - remember a Brit designed this Cat - I just wonder where he got his engineering degree? He surely did not have "simplicity" in mind. Thanks. gr8cat
New bonnets are expensive. Thanks for the tip about Christo's JITS and if you have the discs turned before the pads are ruined you might save a little. We have had terrible rains this month and are seeing a lot of warped discs. Soberguy.
P.S. The design engineer got his degree from the University of low and sexy hoodlines.
Good advice on the discs - sooner the better. Do we really believe that brake discs warp in wet/rainy weather? I've had Ford Contour discs go wonky because of over-torqued wheels but I don't think we've had enough rain here in Ontario to warp the Cat's discs. We will have them checked out.
ULSH sounds like the appropriate university. gr8cat
Jaguar S-type 4.2 V-8s while I was there. Niether one of the Jaguars made it home with-out throwing transmission faults and riding home in the "limp mode". It was a very long drive from Dallas to Oklahoma City in 3rd gear. I had to drive 75mph or less on both cars. When we got them home, we found that an overzealous detailer had washed the engine on the one with 39,000mi and filled 2 of the spark plug tubes with water. This has shorted out the coils on those 2 cylinders and caused a missfire which has thrown
the transmission into "failsafe" mode. We used a compressed air blower to clean the
water out of the spark plug holes and now the car drives with normal power. However, It
is unusual to get away without having to replace the shorted coils. I charge $190.00 plus labor to replace these coils for a customer and I don't expect them to last more than a week. If they do then I will offer the car for sale. Otherwise, I will have to replace the coils.
The other car has 79,000mi on it and appears to be in perfect condition except for
its transmission problems. It is throwing codes for 3rd gear ratio, 4th gear ratio and Illogical ratios. This looks Bad!!!! It could be bad sensors or solenoids but these are
classic codes for a slipping transmission. If this transmission needs a rebuild then I dont even know how to do it. The 6 speed ZF is supposed to be bullit proof. None of the Mercedes, BMW, or Jaguars I have ever worked on with this transmission have ever needed work untill the transmission was completely worn out. (aprox. 250,000mi.).
I hope I haven't caught a bad one in this case. Many of my friends have bought cars
that went through the hurricane and got screwed. The auction is supposed to screen these cars against the insurance list to make sure that we dont buy cars that have been under water. However, lots of cars drove through water and took their owners out of danger. If this car has gotten water in the transmission then I may become one of the few
mechanics in the southern U.S. who can rebuild a ZF 6 speed. I'm certainly not going to knuckle under and buy a new one at my own expense without at least looking inside to see what the big deal is.
This is probably no help to people who have legitimately worn out transmissions. I'm
just keeping you up to date on what I'm up to. Soberguy.
live in Oklahoma, USA. We are seeing so much trouble with Corvette brakes this year that you wouldn't believe it. The biggest and best brakes in the world are warping like HELL!! At least you have brake discs that can be turned. These other cars only have 12
1000ths between new and discard. We have to replace them. Dont even ask me about the cars with Ceramic brakes. Those owners just cry alot. Soberguy.
shop with the correct scanning equipment then that is best. Otherwise you're bound for the dealership. Disconnecting the battery to clear codes will erase info that a tech needs for diagnosis. I had a problem with a 79,000 mile S-type recently that had a leak at the transmission cooler line and was running low on fluid. The
line was replaced and the trans was properly filled with fluid. At this time it is performing normally. Best of luck with yours, Soberguy.
Bought from a family member 16 months ago with 60k miles. I have driven it 30k miles during this time (mostly highway). Maintained by dealer under warranty and since. Car is beautiful and romanced its whole life.
During routine maintenance dealer found leaking transmission cooling lines and I paid the $1000 to have them replaced. I saw no signs of leaking on my garage floor nor did I experience driving symptoms but good professional mechanics proactively looked and found that issue.
Bizarre problem with rearview mirrors. Both arms corroded under visible shell and need to be replaced. ($831 each from dealer and $200 to install both). I'll buy used and refer to the service CD I have to install myself.
While I was waiting for Jag corporate to respond to my request for help replacing the mirrors (the decline eventually came). I got the dreaded amber gearbox fault error. When I restarted the car the message reset and reappeared the next day, this time with the amber engine light. The car drove normally around town and I brought it to the dealer for diagnosis.
The dealer diagnosed a sticky/faulty torque converter ($2500 to pull transmission and replace). They reset the error codes and suggested waiting to see when and if it returned. My driving is mostly highway and I discovered that high speed (50mph +) inclines caused the error when the transmission went back and forth into overdrive on its own. Forcing the shift with acceleration generally prevents the error. I took the car to a very good transmission specialty garage. They confirmed the torque converter is acting a little funny but there were not any signs of a failed torque converter when the transmission plate was removed. However, they believe my problem is caused by a faulty speed sensor. Unfortunately the ZF transmission can not be worked on. The sensor ($10 part) is integral to the throttle plate containing all the solenoids ($2000+ part). The concern is that if I replace the torque converter the speed sensor will pretty quickly damage the new one. Also if the transmission gets pulled to replace the torque converter with 90,000 miles it might make sense to complete a rebuild or replace at that time.
$2500 for Torque converter or $6500 for complete rebuild.....tough call. Any idea or suggestions?
faulty lining in the torque converter on your model. They have come out with a revised torque converter for the Jag and BMWs that have that transmission. The local Jag dealership has only sold 5 of them in the last 5 years and I have never seen the problem myself but apparently it does exist. Transmission code P0741 is the code for this problem. If your check engine light is coming on, you could go to AutoZone and get your codes read or ask the Jag dealer what the codes were that he got to recommend a new converter. A brief look on the internet returned no one offering that converter for sale but I didn't look very long. You're probably looking for a 6 speed ZF
6HP26 Torque converter and the dealership price is $1600.00 retail. My price to install would be 7.7 hrs = $692.00 plus fluid. I can't find any cases where the embedded speed sensor was the problem. Just torque converters. If you were my customer I would probably take torque converter out and have it rebuilt. Usual cost $100-$300 dollars. That is of course based on the assumption that the torque converter is actually the problem. I would have to diagnose it myself to be sure. However, If you're getting that P0741 code then you are probably just looking at the converter problem,not a speed sensor. Clutches and solenoids inside transmission should still be good. Check ebay and the internet for one of the revised converters and then have someone put it in. When you find out what your codes are,I'ld be interested to hear what they were. Soberguy.
Dealer quoted $2408 parts and labor so it sounds pretty close. They also talked about a tsb advising an additive to eliminate an occasional "chirp" when accelerating and shifting from 2-3 or 3-4. Told me there was no performance or damage impact but while they were working on the transmission they should do at the same time.
Where are you located, I'm in upstate NY.
Couple of other questions.
If I avoid the highway and manually keep the car in 5 instead of D is there any chance of further damage over a few weeks while I schedule work?
I know it is a crap shoot but any idea of expected life of this ZF transmission when mostly driven on highway. I'd rather not spend this money now and then have to pull the transmission again in 20-30k miles.
Do you have thought and recommended sources of OEM front shocks with atc? One of the separators is worn on one of mine and I get a rattle once in a while but the dealer wants about $750 for parts alone.
Finally, any good sources for used body parts. I need both door mirrors.
Thanks
Both ecm and tcm codes were P0741.
for used front shocks or body parts. Also try certifit.com for mirrors(maybe). Are there any driveline shops in your area who can rebuild and install your torque converter?
The engine light is on, but the code for that was P1571 Brake Switch. I haven't done anything about that. I plan too, but the breaks are fine. This car has 103k on it. I had the oil changed...then driving it away, I smell some burnt oil. I checked everything and saw no engine oil, saw no drips for months. I only smell it inside the car. I figured, well, the oil guy touched a manifold with oily rubber gloves and I smell it through the heater. But today, the "Transmission Fault" light came on. I could REALLY smell that smell now! The tranny was slipping on the freeway, made a rear end clunk as it reved to 4 to 5k rpm, then would kick in and go back down to 3k. The Tranny Fault light would come off when the car cooled down. But it slips at high speeds on the free way (when trying to pass or something).
I live in WA state. I sure wish I lived in Oklahoma to see you!!!!
I have an extended warranty, it appears to cover up to 2,000 on a tranny (there are so many clauses though). I'm wondering if it's a good warranty. Tomorrow, I'm heading to auto zone. Then I'm will take it to the used dealer I bought it from (and the warranty) hoping they will be great advocates. Can I come back to you and get your take on the codes? I'm thinking that If I need a new tranny, I may be able to get by on paying about 1000 out of pocket for the labor. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you for posting here. Thank you thank you thank you!!! You are an amazing nice guy for lending your expertise here!
Autozone tells me 1572 and 0795. Brake Switch and Faulty shift Celenoid. Here's my fear: My after market warranty I bought (First Automotive) states that it doesn't cover electronic parts. I believe a celenoid is an electronic part. I believe the transmission is a sealed transmission, hence, if it needs a new celenoid, it needs a new transmission. But because it's the celenoid, and not the lubricating parts, it won't be covered under my warranty. I might be completely talking out my own rear end as well! I don't know. It sure sounds reasonable that because it's seal, if a part inside goes but the whole needs replacing, it should be covered. I guess it's up to them? I would love Soberguyjaguar's take on my problems. I would love anyone here who would love to comment. Please also read #172 post where I replied. Pleaded, and cried! I also accept any sympathy and empathy. I need it. I know I sound joking, but I'm kinda down about my car problems and not much cash to back it up. It's a beautiful car and it drives very nice when all is in order.
Here's another issue. I checked the history and it was recalled for ball joints. But they went out about 3 months ago so I had them replaced. (I feel the dealer should honor a recall if it still continues with the same problem, but they tell me it's a one shot deal. I now again, have the same squeek rusty iron sound when I go over speed bumps. These are brand new ball joints, 3 months old! No sound for three months. Back to the same problem. Do shocks or struts make this sound? I had the car checked out before I bought it and they said it needed ball joints.
No mention off shocks or stuts. It "appears" to just be ball joint arthritis with this machine. Give it a steroid shot and it's ok for few months, but when it wears off, you still have arthritis?
I know this rig has 100,000 miles on it. But i have record of many things replaced and it looks extremely clean, like a car only 4 years old. OK, I've completely spilled my automotive guts and gears in two posts (172). My fish hooks are out. Bite anyone? Soberguyjaguar?
Thank you so much for reading my posts!!! All the best to you folks!
$600 warranty repair plus $100 brake switch into a $3200.00 trans. rebuild. You also need to find out where it is leaking to get that burning smell. An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.
Soberguy.
Soberguy