I have an '04 CRV-EX MT. It hadn't been driven for a week and when I pulled it out of the garage this afternoon there was a small puddle of a "thin" brownish-colored oil on the floor near the left rear tire. I poked around underneath the car and couldn't find any obvious signs of the source. The only place that looked suspicious was the shock absorber inside of the coil spring - I assume that these are MacPherson struts? Anyhow, are struts oil filled? Could this stuff even have come from there? I checked the master cylinder of the brake system and it's full. Same goes for the clutch fluid. No engine oil leaks either. Any ideas?
I suppose a trip to the dealer is in order. Drat. Fortunately the car only has 11000 miles so it'll all be covered...
Then it's *definitely* not gear oil. That stuff stinks to the high heavens. At least you can rule that out.
You said brakes feel tight, no sponginess in the pedal, right? If brake fluid was leaking the pedal would feel soft and the level in the brake master cylinder would drop slightly.
Could it be grease from the axle?
The shocks are probably gas filled, I doubt there's oil there.
Who knows, maybe it was just oil on the road that splashed up on the undercarriage, could be nothing from your car.
The rear suspension is double wishbone. The front is Mac strut.
It's possible that the RT4WD unit could be leaking fluid. The differential has a pressure relief valve, which allows it to "blow of some steam" if the system is threatened with more torque than it should reasonably expect. I would only suspect this if the CR-V has been raced, stuck in the mud, or driven off-road over rough terrain.
I read that they made the Special Edition last in 2001 then not again until 2005. What about 2006? I may want to wait to buy a CR-V until the next model year...but I like the Special Edition and would buy a 2005 if I know that they won't make it in 2006. I can't believe they would NOT make it, but apparently that's what they did after 2001.
I think it will depend on the SE sales. If they are up which I think they will be, not making it will cost them. In fact if I was Honda I would put another color or two into production for the SE.
Question off topic:
How many keys(remote and regular) did you guys get with your CR-V??? Does anyone know how much a remote key costs from the dealership? Thanks!
I read that they made the Special Edition last in 2001 then not again until 2005. What about 2006?
Honda sold 1st Gen CR-V SE models in both 2000 and 2001 (the 4th and 5th year of 1st Gen production). In 2002 they redesigned the CR-V (2nd Generation). Now in the 4th year of the 2nd Gen they introduced the SE again. I suspect they'll sell one in 2006, and then discontinue the SE model with the expected redesign for the 2007 model year (3rd Gen).
Brakes are fine - master cylinder is full and pedal isn't mushy. It's definitely not grease. Car has NEVER been raced, stuck in the mud, or driven off-road - we pretty much "baby" it.
I still can't find any clear signs of a fluid leak. Brake line to that wheel is dry. "Boots" on differential and wheel sides of axle are dry. Axle is dry with the exception of a couple of "drip" spots. The rear shock inside the coil spring looks and feels "wet".
I talked to the dealer today and the service rep claims that the rear shocks/struts are oil filled. I have an appointment on Wednesday and will let you know what they find.
Ditto that. I think they've done the same thing with the Accord in past years. Honda would offer a 4 cyl version loaded up with extra goodies when sales start to slow down in the 4th and 5th years.
It seems like Accord SE's are decontented EX's, while the Civic and CR-V SE's are loaded up EX's. It used to be that Accord SE's had leather on top of the EX features, but not with the last generation of Accords.
2002 models IIRC, that's when we shopped one. Back then the LX didn't have ABS, but the EX did for a bunch more money. I think the special model split the difference in price but had ABS.
Back then it was automatic only so that killed the deal for us anyway.
The CR-V LX did not have ABS (until 2005). The EX added that along with a bunch of other stuff. The SE added some additional content on top of the EX. Now, all CR-Vs come with ABS, VSA, and traction control.
If Blueiedgod is correct, the Accord used to work the same way. The SE trim was a notch above the EX. Now it appears that the SE is a notch above the LX, but not quite an EX.
I know Honda just introduced a few new packages for the Civic and Accord (Value Packages), but I can't recall the details.
As far back as I can remember, on the Accord, the SE was an LX with some EX options, and sometimes with some SE only options like special alloys..
I'm positve this was the case with the '94-'97 generation, and the one before that... I had two of the '98-'02 generation, and while both of mine were EX, I'm pretty sure the SE was between the LX and EX on that generation, as well..
In a month, I'll be driving from Alabama to Utah, a trip I made two years ago in an Accord. I'll have two kids with me in the CR-V instead of one, this time.
A couple questions:
Do I need to take any precautions about tire heat and wear on 12-hour days of interstate travel?
Can I use both 12-volt outlets, simultaneously, in the CR-V, one for an Xbox and the other for a small TV set?
And can somebody configure the front passenger and rear seat in the "lounge chair" arrangement and sit in it safely while the vehicle is moving? (Does the rear seatbelt hold them securely in that kind of seat arrangement?)
Do I need to take any precautions about tire heat and wear on 12-hour days of interstate travel?
I would set the tires to 35 PSI for best mileage
Can I use both 12-volt outlets, simultaneously, in the CR-V, one for an Xbox and the other for a small TV set?
Should be no problem
And can somebody configure the front passenger and rear seat in the "lounge chair" arrangement and sit in it safely while the vehicle is moving? (Does the rear seatbelt hold them securely in that kind of seat arrangement?)
Nope. The seatbelt system would not work, and the airbags would be dangerous. If you are speaking of tilting the front seat backwards as a leg rest, that would be OK. The rear seat needs to be almost vertical (within reason) so the rear seatbelts will work.
Thanks for the details. And I did mean to have the front passenger seat configured as a foot/leg rest while my son sat in the backseat, strumming his guitar.
Tire pressure: the 35 psi sounds pretty high to me, compared with the recommended 26 (or 28?). Is that safe? Or is the problem going to be unusual wear? My real concern has been the heat build-up from a day of interstate driving--which also would increase psi (but probably not all way from 26 to 35).
I don't think it would be unsafe. The ride might be a bit stiff, though. But on a long highway jaunt, if the roads are decent at all, it should be fine.
Anyone have a recommendation for a viewing screen or small TV that could be placed on the tray between the CR-V's front seats, for use for Xbox and DVDs? Can something be secured there? And are LCDs practical for viewing in a vehicle that has a lot of ambient and direct light coming through its generous glass areas?
I've adjusted the front seat into a "lounge" for my sister when she had her leg in a cast. Of course, mine is a 1999 model, so the rear seat is a little different. As long as the boy stays belted, it should be fine.
You might have better luck with the center console if you temporarily remove it. Then you can fashion your own TV stand to whatever height and width will fit in there. If it's anything like the gen 1 CR-Vs, it'll come out with two or three screws. Very easy.
"Discussion about the 35 PSI for highway travel makes me wonder about a better PSI for around-town driving that would boost mileage. Any suggestions?
Disadvantages to higher-than-recommended PSIs?"
I take it you mean "higher-than-Honda-recommended". The Duelers are rated up to 44 PSI cold pressure.
Inflating them to 26 is just asking for excess heat. It does make the CR-V ride very nicely, but at a cost in heat buildup and MPG. Honda apparently didn't learn much from the Ford Explorer debacle; the tires failed partially because of bad manufacturing, but the problem was made much worse by Ford inflating the tires to Mid 20's instead of early 30's PSI.
I find a 1 -2 MPG increase around town with 35 vice with 26 PSI.
Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone has any of the small metal center caps with the Honda "H" on it that fit on the first generation CRV steel wheels. I require 2 of them and Honda wants $45.00Cnd apiece for them here in Calgary, Canada. I thought if anyone had a wreck or upgraded their wheels from the steel ones and no longer required the centre caps I could buy them off you. Thanks
No buying or selling on the forums please. Try eBay or craigslist.org (there's one in Calgary) or your local auto salvage yard or hubcap store. Thanks,
Ford's problems with the Explorer have nothing to do with the CR-V. Ford recommended that owners set the tire pressure too low (which contributed to excessive wear). That doesn't mean everyone should over inflate the tires to compensate for the possibility of a mistake like Ford's. Besides, if you over inflate tires, you run the risk of wearing only the center of the tire, rather than the full width of the tread. Which effectively reduces your contact patch, which means poor braking and grip.
I ran my first set of tires between 26 and 28 psi until about 55K miles with no unusual signs of wear. I replaced them because I wanted something less noisey. My second set have another 53K and they look better than the last set at pretty much the same mileage.
Discussion about the 35 PSI for highway travel makes me wonder about a better PSI for around-town driving that would boost mileage.
My '99 CR-V EX 5 speed manual came with BFG Touring T/As (not the Duelers). I found that running them at 30 PSI was a nice balance between fuel mileage and ride quality. I have Yokohama Avid Tourings on my CR-V now, and just automatically went with 30 PSI.
Today I had the oil changed at the dealer. When it was done they let me know they'd done their normal safety checks (brakes, CV boots, exhaust, and tire pressure) and also washed my CR-V (I love my dealer!). They said everything looked fine, but a couple of tires were a few PSI low, and that they had inflated them all to 32 PSI. I didn't notice much difference in ride on the way home, so I'm going to run with 32 for a couple tanks of fuel and see what happens.
btw: I've been getting 24-25 MPG around town, 28+ on the highway at 65-70 MPH.
Just inflated the tires from 26 to 30 psi. I don't sense any degradation to the ride. I wouldn't mind raising my gas mileage from the 21.5 city mpg I'm getting.
But that savings in gas would be offset if the tires wear prematurely. Then again, I'm interested in replacing the Duelers with a quieter tire (maybe the Michelin Harmony).
I don't know if recommended pressures vary with model year, but it would probably help to note model year when discussing it. The 05 (at least FWD) recommends 29/29.
I'm set there now and could probably live with 30/30 in pothole-filled Boston, and maybe even 31/31 on the highway.
The leak was from the left rear shock/strut (whatever it's called). The dealer replaced it under warranty. Heck, they should...the CRV only has 11000 miles on it.
This is a case where the mystery is more than the slight annoyance that's behind it. Every school day I take a route where there's a right turn with a slight, short dip in the road. I hear a thud from the right rear of the vehicle. My first guess was the picnic table bouncing.
But I've removed the picnic table, a small airpump in the the rear door pocket, and the jack and tools. Still the sound. It takes more of a horizontal bump than a vertical one to cause it.
My curiosity is raging. Is there a Sherlock Holmes in the forum?
W/ the move of CRV US production fm Swindon, UK to East Liberty, Ohio for 2006 version, will there be a body style change? I'd love to see a CRV-version of the new Civic hood.... Bob
W/ the move of CRV US production fm Swindon, UK to East Liberty, Ohio for 2006 version, will there be a body style change? I'd love to see a CRV-version of the new Civic hood....
Actually, Honda has announced they will begin producing the CR-V in East Liberty, Ohio in 2006, not that they will be producting the 2006 model year in Ohio. A slight, but signicant difference. The 2006 model year will be available in late 2005.
The CR-V will probably be redesigned for the 2007 model year, which suggests that they will be the first CR-Vs coming out of the Ohio plant in late 2006.
That doesn't mean that they aren't overinflated for that vehicle.. Just because the tires won't explode, doesn't mean the vehicle is safe to drive with that inflation..
I'm thinking of a CR-V hitting a big dip in the road at 70 MPH with the tires inflated to 44 psi... WOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!
If you live in a state that doesn't require a front license plate, should you leave the plate area free of a plate (like a dealer or sports team plate) to get more air into the engine? Will the CR-V engine run cooler because the radiator isn't partially blocked by a front license plate?
"That doesn't mean that they aren't overinflated for that vehicle.. Just because the tires won't explode, doesn't mean the vehicle is safe to drive with that inflation.."
Well, let me state here that the CR-V is perfectly under control at 35 PSI... including snow and high speed.
A vehicle weighing 4,500 lbs is going to do different things to a tire at 44 psi than a vehicle weighing 3,000 lbs.
The goal behind inflating your tires properly is to maintain as consistent and as large a contact patch as possible. You don't want the edges of the tires pressing harder on the road than the center (cupping). That could happen with an under-inflated tire. The reverse is true of an over-inflated tire. The center of the tread is doing all the work, rather than the full width.
What happens when only part of your tire is doing 100% of its job? You have less rolling resistance, which means better gas mileage. But sometimes friction is a good thing. Like when you try to stop, or when you enter a turn too fast.
Will you notice this during normal driving? Nope. I doubt it. You won't know until you take the car to the extremes... like when you need to perform an emergency lane change. Honda performs tests with the car to gauge what is the best all-around option for the tires. They take the car to those extremes. I have significant doubts that anyone here tested their CR-V on a skidpad before and after changing the psi in their tires.
Is 35 psi too high? Is that high enough to be considered over-inflated? I have no idea. That's an increase of about 35% above stock. Sounds pretty significant to me.
Honda is looking for a balance of ride comfort, though. I think that's the main thing you sacrifice when you go over 30psi.
I don't think you give up lateral grip because folks that autocross pump up the pressures and get around a course a bit quicker. That would seem to indicate that you're not losing traction (braking, turning, accelerating), but I sure bet the ride would be stiffer.
So if you use 40psi you're gonna wake up that kid that is napping in the back seat at the first pot hole you hit. Then the baby will
"Is 35 psi too high? Is that high enough to be considered over-inflated? I have no idea. That's an increase of about 35% above stock. Sounds pretty significant to me."
Actually, it sounds like Honda recommended 26 PSI so they could get a softer ride to me...
What makes you say that? Other than the fact that the ride is stiffer with higher psi. Why not assume they did it to provide better braking or handling over broken pavement?
Comments
I suppose a trip to the dealer is in order. Drat. Fortunately the car only has 11000 miles so it'll all be covered...
Any symptoms when you drive, like noise?
-juice
This stuff was pretty thin and I didn't see anything coming out of the rear differential. It didn't really have any odor either.
Thanks.
You said brakes feel tight, no sponginess in the pedal, right? If brake fluid was leaking the pedal would feel soft and the level in the brake master cylinder would drop slightly.
Could it be grease from the axle?
The shocks are probably gas filled, I doubt there's oil there.
Who knows, maybe it was just oil on the road that splashed up on the undercarriage, could be nothing from your car.
-juice
It's possible that the RT4WD unit could be leaking fluid. The differential has a pressure relief valve, which allows it to "blow of some steam" if the system is threatened with more torque than it should reasonably expect. I would only suspect this if the CR-V has been raced, stuck in the mud, or driven off-road over rough terrain.
Question off topic:
How many keys(remote and regular) did you guys get with your CR-V??? Does anyone know how much a remote key costs from the dealership? Thanks!
Honda sold 1st Gen CR-V SE models in both 2000 and 2001 (the 4th and 5th year of 1st Gen production). In 2002 they redesigned the CR-V (2nd Generation). Now in the 4th year of the 2nd Gen they introduced the SE again. I suspect they'll sell one in 2006, and then discontinue the SE model with the expected redesign for the 2007 model year (3rd Gen).
JM2C
I still can't find any clear signs of a fluid leak. Brake line to that wheel is dry. "Boots" on differential and wheel sides of axle are dry. Axle is dry with the exception of a couple of "drip" spots. The rear shock inside the coil spring looks and feels "wet".
I talked to the dealer today and the service rep claims that the rear shocks/struts are oil filled. I have an appointment on Wednesday and will let you know what they find.
Thanks for the suggestions.
-juice
-juice
Uh, context? If you're talking about the SE, the 1st Gen EX had ABS.
Back then it was automatic only so that killed the deal for us anyway.
-juice
The CR-V LX did not have ABS (until 2005). The EX added that along with a bunch of other stuff. The SE added some additional content on top of the EX. Now, all CR-Vs come with ABS, VSA, and traction control.
If Blueiedgod is correct, the Accord used to work the same way. The SE trim was a notch above the EX. Now it appears that the SE is a notch above the LX, but not quite an EX.
I know Honda just introduced a few new packages for the Civic and Accord (Value Packages), but I can't recall the details.
I'm positve this was the case with the '94-'97 generation, and the one before that... I had two of the '98-'02 generation, and while both of mine were EX, I'm pretty sure the SE was between the LX and EX on that generation, as well..
So..
Accord.. SE was between LX and EX..
CR-V.. SE is above EX..
regards,
kyfdx
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A couple questions:
Do I need to take any precautions about tire heat and wear on 12-hour days of interstate travel?
Can I use both 12-volt outlets, simultaneously, in the CR-V, one for an Xbox and the other for a small TV set?
And can somebody configure the front passenger and rear seat in the "lounge chair" arrangement and sit in it safely while the vehicle is moving? (Does the rear seatbelt hold them securely in that kind of seat arrangement?)
Thanks!
A long while ago, maybe '92 or so, the Accord SE was really loaded up, more so than the EX.
Steve: XBox and TV? Sounds like a party in the back seat for the kids.
-juice
Do I need to take any precautions about tire heat and wear on 12-hour days of interstate travel?
I would set the tires to 35 PSI for best mileage
Can I use both 12-volt outlets, simultaneously, in the CR-V, one for an Xbox and the other for a small TV set?
Should be no problem
And can somebody configure the front passenger and rear seat in the "lounge chair" arrangement and sit in it safely while the vehicle is moving? (Does the rear seatbelt hold them securely in that kind of seat arrangement?)
Nope. The seatbelt system would not work, and the airbags would be dangerous. If you are speaking of tilting the front seat backwards as a leg rest, that would be OK. The rear seat needs to be almost vertical (within reason) so the rear seatbelts will work.
Can I come?
Tire pressure: the 35 psi sounds pretty high to me, compared with the recommended 26 (or 28?). Is that safe? Or is the problem going to be unusual wear? My real concern has been the heat build-up from a day of interstate driving--which also would increase psi (but probably not all way from 26 to 35).
-juice
Disadvantages to higher-than-recommended PSIs?
You might have better luck with the center console if you temporarily remove it. Then you can fashion your own TV stand to whatever height and width will fit in there. If it's anything like the gen 1 CR-Vs, it'll come out with two or three screws. Very easy.
Disadvantages to higher-than-recommended PSIs?"
I take it you mean "higher-than-Honda-recommended". The Duelers are rated up to 44 PSI cold pressure.
Inflating them to 26 is just asking for excess heat. It does make the CR-V ride very nicely, but at a cost in heat buildup and MPG. Honda apparently didn't learn much from the Ford Explorer debacle; the tires failed partially because of bad manufacturing, but the problem was made much worse by Ford inflating the tires to Mid 20's instead of early 30's PSI.
I find a 1 -2 MPG increase around town with 35 vice with 26 PSI.
I really recommend 35 PSI. The tires support the added weight of a family better at the higher PSI.
Steve, Host
I ran my first set of tires between 26 and 28 psi until about 55K miles with no unusual signs of wear. I replaced them because I wanted something less noisey. My second set have another 53K and they look better than the last set at pretty much the same mileage.
My '99 CR-V EX 5 speed manual came with BFG Touring T/As (not the Duelers). I found that running them at 30 PSI was a nice balance between fuel mileage and ride quality. I have Yokohama Avid Tourings on my CR-V now, and just automatically went with 30 PSI.
Today I had the oil changed at the dealer. When it was done they let me know they'd done their normal safety checks (brakes, CV boots, exhaust, and tire pressure) and also washed my CR-V (I love my dealer!). They said everything looked fine, but a couple of tires were a few PSI low, and that they had inflated them all to 32 PSI. I didn't notice much difference in ride on the way home, so I'm going to run with 32 for a couple tanks of fuel and see what happens.
btw: I've been getting 24-25 MPG around town, 28+ on the highway at 65-70 MPH.
But that savings in gas would be offset if the tires wear prematurely. Then again, I'm interested in replacing the Duelers with a quieter tire (maybe the Michelin Harmony).
Thanks for everyone's input.
I'm set there now and could probably live with 30/30 in pothole-filled Boston, and maybe even 31/31 on the highway.
The leak was from the left rear shock/strut (whatever it's called). The dealer replaced it under warranty. Heck, they should...the CRV only has 11000 miles on it.
Thanks for all the input.
Steve, Host
But I've removed the picnic table, a small airpump in the the rear door pocket, and the jack and tools. Still the sound. It takes more of a horizontal bump than a vertical one to cause it.
My curiosity is raging. Is there a Sherlock Holmes in the forum?
Bob
Actually, Honda has announced they will begin producing the CR-V in East Liberty, Ohio in 2006, not that they will be producting the 2006 model year in Ohio. A slight, but signicant difference. The 2006 model year will be available in late 2005.
The CR-V will probably be redesigned for the 2007 model year, which suggests that they will be the first CR-Vs coming out of the Ohio plant in late 2006.
-juice
Overinflate? The tires are rated to 44 PSI, so they are not over-inflated...
I'm thinking of a CR-V hitting a big dip in the road at 70 MPH with the tires inflated to 44 psi... WOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!
Could be a new ride at the amusement park..
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Thanks,
Anup Patel
Well, let me state here that the CR-V is perfectly under control at 35 PSI... including snow and high speed.
The goal behind inflating your tires properly is to maintain as consistent and as large a contact patch as possible. You don't want the edges of the tires pressing harder on the road than the center (cupping). That could happen with an under-inflated tire. The reverse is true of an over-inflated tire. The center of the tread is doing all the work, rather than the full width.
What happens when only part of your tire is doing 100% of its job? You have less rolling resistance, which means better gas mileage. But sometimes friction is a good thing. Like when you try to stop, or when you enter a turn too fast.
Will you notice this during normal driving? Nope. I doubt it. You won't know until you take the car to the extremes... like when you need to perform an emergency lane change. Honda performs tests with the car to gauge what is the best all-around option for the tires. They take the car to those extremes. I have significant doubts that anyone here tested their CR-V on a skidpad before and after changing the psi in their tires.
Is 35 psi too high? Is that high enough to be considered over-inflated? I have no idea. That's an increase of about 35% above stock. Sounds pretty significant to me.
JM2C
I don't think you give up lateral grip because folks that autocross pump up the pressures and get around a course a bit quicker. That would seem to indicate that you're not losing traction (braking, turning, accelerating), but I sure bet the ride would be stiffer.
So if you use 40psi you're gonna wake up that kid that is napping in the back seat at the first pot hole you hit. Then the baby will
-juice
Actually, it sounds like Honda recommended 26 PSI so they could get a softer ride to me...
Also, the 2005 CR-V is now listed at 29 PSI... while it now has 16 inch wheels, I suspect that Honda realized that they should recommend a higher PSI.