Very true, the KBB value of a '98 CR-V was higher than for a Jeep Grand Cherokee when I looked, never mind the regular Cherokee which was priced closer to the CR-V when new.
I had a hard time when I put them back on after wheel lock installation on spare. Saw some SE in the street and most of them is not aligned. The easy way for me is just put them on and close the zipper only half way(or open only half way if closed). Then twist it to left or right. It works for me
Whenever I see V with NEKKID,I just have a strong feeling the poor guy's cover was stolen again
How come mine is only holding with three nuts and Mr.theracoon's holding with four nuts?? I think I am gonna buy another set of wheel lock to replace other two nuts.
The Bridgestone Duellers on my wife's '04 CRV have to go. Now with 15k mi. on them and half the tread, they are horrible in wet, light snow and ice. We live in NY and the winters can be brutal here. The Duellers were average last winter when new, so we put up with them, but they have deteriorated severely, even with 2 rotations at 6k and 12k mi.
I have spent the last 2 days on tirerack.com reading hundreds of reviews. Was going to order the Michelin Harmony (Standard Touring - All Season) because it got very high scores and good reviews, but last minute decided to look at less expensive tires.
The Kumho A/S 795 also got excellent reviews and scores very close to the Michelin. The main difference is, it's almost 1/2 the price! Does anyone here use the Kumhos on their CRV? I only found 3-4 reviews from CRV owners and they gave it 7.3 - 8 scores, not 8-9 as most other reviewers with different vehicles so I wanted to see if people here have used them on their CRV and what they think. I only have experience with the Kumho DOT race tires (Victoracer and V710) as well as their Ultra performance MX tire which are all excellent so I would assume that their All Season tires are just as good. But we all know how you spell "assume"
Also has anyone gone to wider tires like 215-65-15? This size most closely matches the circumference of the 205-70-15 and speedometer error is minimal (0.7mph or 1% too fast). The main reason I 'm asking is because most people said the Kumho A/S 795 is narrower than normal and recommend plus sizing. The 65 profile vs. 70 profile results only in a 0.14" smaller sidewall or a little over 3mm which is negiligent and hopefully won't affect ride quality.
What non-OEM tires do you guys use (besides winter tires) for driving all year round in different kinds of weather?
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I have seen black and tan. Anyone know of any other interior colors for the CR-V? The fabric seemed outstanding so I don't think I would even bother with the leather. Also, can you get heated seats w/o leather? Thanks in advance and Happy New Year!
If you're like me, when you get a new car, you want to get that first oil change after the first 1 or 2 thousand miles -- get all that "break-in gunk" out of that new engine.
Well, was I surprised to find out that the owner's manual for the CR-V actually recommends NOT doing the early oil change during engine break-in.
Apparently the current Japanese automotive engineering theory is that having those metal particles suspended in modern oil aids in break-in and seating the rings.
Dealership has 0% interest this week but only has one CR-V LX left. It has ivory/beige interior color. I'm concerned it will stain, show dirt, and hurt resale value. I get in and out of my car alot for work and track in winter street sludge. Can anyone comment on how difficult the ivory/beige interior is to maintain? I considered getting an LX AWD but not sure whether central Ohio gets enough snow to warrant the cost. Salesman says FWD along with the CR-V height off the ground should handle the snow. There are lots of EX's on the lot but I want the most safety features for the least money and the EX cost $3400 more. Dealership is trying to find an LX with dark interior. The LX FWD sticker price ($20945) is higher than some I read here but the 0% interest will keep costs lower. I welcome any comments and Happy New Year!
Ohio? AWD is a no brainer. I am not too far away in Pittsburgh and I can tell you that 2WD SUVS (even small car-based SUVs like CR-V) have terrible resale value. No one wants them. It sounds like the dealer is trying to talk you into something that is not even close to what you want. Zero interest? Big deal. Next week they'll be some other deal. And a truck load of CR-Vs will be on the lot before you know it.
Hold out for what you want. And don't make the mistake of getting an AWD vehicle without the AWD in OHIO!
Thanks - I hadn't thought about it that way. I think you're right about the resale of the FWD SUV here. About all of them on the road say AWD. If I decide to pass on AWD I should probably just stay with a sedan. I don't get the snow that Cleveland does but sometimes we get a good one. I am disappointed in the price offered - nothing off the sticker - $20945 LX and $24300 EX. Maybe I will post on the price forum since it looks like I better negotiate better.
You should email Wilde Honda in Waukesha, WI for a quote on the exact CR-V you are looking for. Their prices are the best I have found and they aren't that far away from you. You could use their quote to induce your local dealer to deal a little more, or drive up there and buy from Wilde. Bianchi Honda in Erie, PA also has very good pricing through their internet department and they might be closer to you. I agree 100% with the other poster about not buying whatever the guy has on the lot if its not what you really want. I would certainly go with the AWD in Ohio also. I would give Wilde and Bianchi a chance at your business.
Apparently the current Japanese automotive engineering theory is that having those metal particles suspended in modern oil aids in break-in and seating the rings.
Maybe, but I'm finding this really, really hard to believe. My CR-V owner's manual seemed to say that 10,000 miles for the first oil change would be just fine. My schedule for other cars has been oil changes every 3,500 miles. So I had a Honda dealer change my O&F at 4,000 miles. Funny thing, the little sticker they put on the windshield advised that the next oil change should be at 7,000 miles. Sure, they have a conflict of interest here. But, as far as I can tell, quarterly oil changes (which for me = 3,500 miles) are the surest way to prolong the life of your engine.
I once owned an '88 Toyota pickup which got new oil every 3,500 miles. That truck was in perfect shape, but I decided that I wanted something a little more comfy for commuting. So in a knuckle headed moment I sold it to my neighbor who had seen it receive TLC for 10 years. He promised that I could borrow it anytime I needed to make a Home Depot run or bring home a Christmas tree. Then he promptly totalled it during some mildly inclement weather. If I'd kept it, that truck would still be running. #XYZ&!!!
I am planning to buy a CRV-LX AWD. I have a couple of questions. Can I get window tinting done (rear privacy glass) similar to EX at some place ? How difficult it is to add auto dimming mirror with compass to a CRV-LX. I don't care about steering wheel mounted audio controls.
You can look at the installation instructions for the mirror at Handa-accessories.com. (the ad link at the top of this page)
I don't think window tinting is too much, but I would make sure I had it done by a vey reputable shop with a decent guarantee. A lot of aftermarket tint jobs look pretty bad after a couple of years, so I would try to find somebody who can recommend a good shop to you.
Can someone tell me if there is any kind of warning if you turn the engine off without turning off your headlights? Honda salesman told me he thought maybe the headlights turn off automatically 15 seconds after the CRV is turned off?? I'm accustomed to driving a car with auto on off headlights and since I like to have them on in the daytime as an added safety feature, I fear I will forget to turn them off.
Then he promptly totalled it during some mildly inclement weather. If I'd kept it, that truck would still be running. #XYZ&!!!
I'm on a 7,500 mile interval on my 7 year old minivan; I figure if I gave it TLC I would surely pull a stunt like your neighbor. (It's at 107k currently btw, and I was 4,000 miles late for the last oil change).
I plan to follow the severe conditions (whatever it's called) maintenance schedule for my CR-V, which calls for oil changes every 6 months or 5000 miles. I actually only drive about 3500 miles in 6 months, so that works out OK either way.
Can someone tell me if there is any kind of warning if you turn the engine off without turning off your headlights? Honda salesman told me he thought maybe the headlights turn off automatically 15 seconds after the CRV is turned off?? I'm accustomed to driving a car with auto on off headlights and since I like to have them on in the daytime as an added safety feature, I fear I will forget to turn them off.
I am not aware of the 2006 getting auto off headlights, my 2005 does not have them. It does have a little buzzer that sounds an alarm when the headlights are on, no key in ignition and the driver's door is open. (have to have all three to sound)
If auto headlights are important, you can wire the headlights to come on when engine is on, and off when engine is off. Simpler than auto headlights, but serves the same purpose (making sure you change the bulbs often :-) )
My CR-V owner's manual seemed to say that 10,000 miles for the first oil change would be just fine.
Read it again. It is only if you fall under the "NORMAL" driving conditions. Do you? almost 90% of the drivers out there never fall in under "NORMAL" but rather "SEVERE" driving schedule, the interval for that is 5000 miles.
It pays to read the OWNER'S MANUAL, not skim though it.
Apparently the current Japanese automotive engineering theory is that having those metal particles suspended in modern oil aids in break-in and seating the rings.
The metal shavings should be filtered by the oil filter, if it is functioning properly, so there are no metal shavings floating in the oil.
The reason Honda recommends prolonging the first oil change is because of the high Moly content "break in" oil that every Honda engine is filled at the factory.
Is anyone driving around with 3 car seats in their CRV? We've got 2 toddlers (5 and 3 yrs) and a 3rd one on the way. We love the CR-V, but wonder if it holds up with 3 car seats. Right now, our family ride is an '02 Accord and 3 car seats (2 toddler and one infant) seems a stretch. Any thoughts, CRV-owners? Thanks.
90% of the drivers out there never fall in under "NORMAL" but rather "SEVERE" driving schedule, the interval for that is 5000 miles.
90% of the time this would be excellent advice, but my CR-V is primarily used for highway cruising and suburban use. No commuting, no city stop and go, few short trips. The family fleet includes two 8-year-old Saabs, and mine is the one that's usually used for those purposes. So my reading of the Honda owner's manual didn't seem to insist that I was in the "severe" category, which, I agree, should include any car used for commuting.
It seems to me that fresh oil and filters is such a miniscule part of car ownership costs that choosing more frequent changes over less doesn't threaten the beer budget.
But as John the Host points out, there are drivers who get satisfactory results with more casual tactics.
It's Steve and I think it's often a waste of good oil, time and money (even more so if you aren't following the manual). Unless you think your Honda motor is prone to gelling like some Toyotas were? :-)
I think it's often a waste of good oil, time and money
Sorry, Host Steve,for renaming you. My bad.
Your's is the argument of my missus. My retort is that changing oil quarterly as opposed to twice annually requires such a modest additional expenditure of oil, time and money that it's hard to put up a persuasive argument against it.
My neighbors, friends and relatives sometimes kid me for "over maintaining" my vehicles. However, when I'm in the mood to sell they show up checkbook in hand.
Since my vehicle ownership strategy is buy and hold, I'll follow the money.
Maybe someone will give us $20 apiece and we can compare oil analyses, LOL. Check out Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 for lots more on the oil wars.
I usually drive mine into the ground and take $1,000 on dealer trade so I don't have to face my neighbors.
Next time you're in Boise, yell, and I'll buy your wife a cup of coffee.
Just don't forget, that severe schedule applies if you experience weather under 32°F or above 90°F, so, while you may only have highway miles, if it snows, or gets really hot in the summer where you live, you still have to abide by the severe schedule.
The oil should be changed every 3-4 mos regardless of mileage. The longer it stays in your engine the more harm it does. It gets water build up, acidity increases (acids start forming), etc. You should not go past 3.5-4mos with the same oil.
I garage my '99 Integra GSR every winter because I mainly use it for racing and wknd driving. It cannot be driven in bad weather. The first winter I did it (the car had about 15k mi. on it), I didn't change the oil before storage because I figured the oil was only about 8 weeks old and it had about 1200 mi. since the last oil change. Well 4mos later in the Spring before I took it out on the road I checked the dipstick and the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was almost black! It was a brown (almost light brown) color when I stored it. So basically the oil went about 6mos without being changed and its properties still changed and seemed to have broken it down more even though it wasn't driven. I then did a lot of research and found out there 's different types of chemical reactions that take place over time and I never stay with the same oil more than 3 mos. even if it's synthetic.
So SEVERE schedule all the way and for all my cars. You have nothing but to gain from this. Smoother running engine and maintain good gas mileage.
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I have no idea whether that oil was good or bad, but I do know that the color is not a good indicator of viscosity.
If you really want to know how long it takes to break down the oil in our car, have it tested. Assuming the same driving habits are maintained year round (not likely for most people), have the oil tested after a 3 mo. change. Then again after a 4 mo. period. And once more after a 5 mo. period. Then you'll have a good baseline for deciding whether or not you'll require frequent changes.
**edit** oops, Steve beat me to the point on color.
You can send a sample to bobistheoilguy.com and have it analyzed for less than you'd expect. We Subaru Crew folks do that often and it's nice to have him tell you how clean your engine is running.
Try it out next time. Plan it in advance, you get a container to collect a sample, mail it in, then it's analyzed for you down to the last chemical element.
"Apparently the current Japanese automotive engineering theory is that having those metal particles suspended in modern oil aids in break-in and seating the rings."
The honda owner's website used to have a note about the factory oil (I haven't looked at the site in a while). It said that the initial oil should stay in as long as possible, because it had additives that helped break in the engine. I left my factory oil in until 7500 miles. Thereafter 5000 mile oil changes, sometimes 6000 if I had a lot of highway miles. Now I'm at 40k miles and back on even 5K schedules.
Hi, I have a 2004 CR-V bought it brand new & recently I noticed the front grill has a little play, like drop I drop the hood the grill bounced a little. Anyone know how it attached because I can't figure it out or should I bring it to my dealer. Would that be cover by Honda warranty? Thanks, Andy
Bought a new 2006 CRV SE over the weekend, and have experienced a noticeable amount of road noise at moderate speed - similar to the noise of driving with one of the doors not fully shut. Even accused my wife of her not fully closing her passenger door. Needless to say, that comment to her did not go over too well!
Anyway, I test drove extensively a different SE prior to purchasing and do not recall any similar noise in that particular SE. The only difference besides the color was that final assembly of the test drive SE was in England, and the vehicle was equipped with BF Goodrich tires. My vehicle's final assembly was in Japan, and it is equipped with Bridgestone tires.
I noted in some earlier posts other complaints about Bridgestone tires. Is this the same type of noise you other Bridgestone tire owners have experienced? Anyone successful in getting the dealer to swap out the tires?
The only other comments and questions I have is concerning the factory stereo --
I've noticed the bass response on the factory stereo is on the weak side. Has anyone had the Honda subwoofer kit installed in their CRV? If so, did you notice a big improvement?
Also, is anyone aware of an aftermarket auxiliary iPod jack for the CRV in order to avoid having to play your iPod through an FM modulator or cassette adaptor?
Otherwise, in the four days I've owned the vehicle, everything else has been has been perfect.
similar to the noise of driving with one of the doors not fully shut. Even accused my wife of her not fully closing her passenger door. Needless to say, that comment to her did not go over too well!
There is a light in the dashboard telling you if one of the doors is not fully shut. You could have avoided the argument with the Mrs. :-) (OWNER's MANUAL is your FRIEND, not enemy, READ it a few times!)
You should always test drive the same car you are purchasing before delivery and signing the final papers.
I drive all my Hondas twice. When I first pick one out and put a deposit on it, and then at delivery/inspection time, before I sign the loan papers and all that.
You should also always write down the VIN # of the vehicle you test drove and made the deal on. Sometimes they 'll sell your car to someone else and try and sell you another one just like it. They 've done it to me but I caught it. They tried to sell me a Civic with a deep scratch on the hood that they had covered (badly) with touch-up paint. I first noticed the VIN# was different (it wasn't my first new car) and refused to buy that car after I got suspicious and started looking at it very carefully and found the scratch. That was in '93. I have not trusted any dealerships since, even Acura ones.
In your case it's most likely the Bridgestone Duellers. They can get pretty noisy but not like the door is open. You should take it back just in case and also ask them to test drive another CRV that has the same tires to compare the two.
'99 Integra GSR '06 Civic LX coupe '11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive '13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Road noise is an issue with the CR-V. The tires you've got contribute to the noise, but they not the sole cause. Switching tires may help, but will not completely eliminate the sound.
Best I can figure is that you drove on smoother roads or simply didn't notice during the test drive. :confuse:
I test drove a CR-V with Duellers but had the Goodrich tires installed as OE. The Goodrich reviews on Tire Rack were much better, and they're quieter than the Duellers.
But a 1,000 mile round trip on Interstates taught me that CR-Vs are only as quiet as the road permits. A nice fresh stretch of blacktop and they fairly hum along. But there was a stretch through NY State on 17/286 that was definitely trucky. It had something to do with the road surface, because the noisiness had a very clearly defined beginning and end point to the ear even though the demarcation line was invisible to the eye. My manly inquisitive nature prompted me to want to stop and check out the road surface, but my co-pilot, who seems untouched by any interest in impromptu scientific research, vetoed the idea.
Actually, it worked out well for me, because the road noise enabled me to get my copilot to stop playing her extensive CD collection of Overproduced Songs with Sappy Lyrics.
I'm considering buying a Honda CRV 06, 4WD EX. I've never had an SUV; still driving an '89 Toyota Sedan. It's time to move on.
I noticed in some of the forums that many people complained about the 05 CRV's having a hard pull to the right. Also, if you go to http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm site, there are numerous complaints about this issue and severe torque steer (whatever that is) for the 05 CRV.
Your best bet is to test drive the actual vehicle they want to sell you. Go to the dealer, take a drive in whatever vehicle they have handy, and agree on a price. When you are ready to pick up your vehicle, take THAT car for a test drive. If it pulls, tell them they must fix it before you will sign papers.
Sorry... I guess the point is: CR-Vs are relatively noisy vehicles.. You may be able to improve the situation slightly, but if that kind of thing bothers you, you are never going to be happy with a CR-V.
Comments
-juice
Saw some SE in the street and most of them is not aligned.
The easy way for me is just put them on and close the zipper only half way(or open only half way if closed). Then twist it to left or right. It works for me
How come mine is only holding with three nuts and Mr.theracoon's holding with four nuts?? I think I am gonna buy another set of wheel lock to replace other two nuts.
-juice
I have spent the last 2 days on tirerack.com reading hundreds of reviews. Was going to order the Michelin Harmony (Standard Touring - All Season) because it got very high scores and good reviews, but last minute decided to look at less expensive tires.
The Kumho A/S 795 also got excellent reviews and scores very close to the Michelin. The main difference is, it's almost 1/2 the price! Does anyone here use the Kumhos on their CRV? I only found 3-4 reviews from CRV owners and they gave it 7.3 - 8 scores, not 8-9 as most other reviewers with different vehicles so I wanted to see if people here have used them on their CRV and what they think. I only have experience with the Kumho DOT race tires (Victoracer and V710) as well as their Ultra performance MX tire which are all excellent so I would assume that their All Season tires are just as good. But we all know how you spell "assume"
Also has anyone gone to wider tires like 215-65-15? This size most closely matches the circumference of the 205-70-15 and speedometer error is minimal (0.7mph or 1% too fast). The main reason I 'm asking is because most people said the Kumho A/S 795 is narrower than normal and recommend plus sizing.
The 65 profile vs. 70 profile results only in a 0.14" smaller sidewall or a little over 3mm which is negiligent and hopefully won't affect ride quality.
What non-OEM tires do you guys use (besides winter tires) for driving all year round in different kinds of weather?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Well, was I surprised to find out that the owner's manual for the CR-V actually recommends NOT doing the early oil change during engine break-in.
Apparently the current Japanese automotive engineering theory is that having those metal particles suspended in modern oil aids in break-in and seating the rings.
Who-da thunk it ??? :confuse:
Hold out for what you want. And don't make the mistake of getting an AWD vehicle without the AWD in OHIO!
Good luck.
Maybe, but I'm finding this really, really hard to believe. My CR-V owner's manual seemed to say that 10,000 miles for the first oil change would be just fine. My schedule for other cars has been oil changes every 3,500 miles. So I had a Honda dealer change my O&F at 4,000 miles. Funny thing, the little sticker they put on the windshield advised that the next oil change should be at 7,000 miles. Sure, they have a conflict of interest here. But, as far as I can tell, quarterly oil changes (which for me = 3,500 miles) are the surest way to prolong the life of your engine.
I once owned an '88 Toyota pickup which got new oil every 3,500 miles. That truck was in perfect shape, but I decided that I wanted something a little more comfy for commuting. So in a knuckle headed moment I sold it to my neighbor who had seen it receive TLC for 10 years. He promised that I could borrow it anytime I needed to make a Home Depot run or bring home a Christmas tree. Then he promptly totalled it during some mildly inclement weather. If I'd kept it, that truck would still be running. #XYZ&!!!
This will help me to choose between LX and EX.
Thanks.
Yes. Many glass places also do tinting, as do custom shops. Should be $200 or less.
How difficult it is to add auto dimming mirror with compass to a CRV-LX.
It might require some extra wiring, but it is possible.
Good luck.
I don't think window tinting is too much, but I would make sure I had it done by a vey reputable shop with a decent guarantee. A lot of aftermarket tint jobs look pretty bad after a couple of years, so I would try to find somebody who can recommend a good shop to you.
Good luck.
I'm on a 7,500 mile interval on my 7 year old minivan; I figure if I gave it TLC I would surely pull a stunt like your neighbor. (It's at 107k currently btw, and I was 4,000 miles late for the last oil change).
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
I am not aware of the 2006 getting auto off headlights, my 2005 does not have them. It does have a little buzzer that sounds an alarm when the headlights are on, no key in ignition and the driver's door is open. (have to have all three to sound)
If auto headlights are important, you can wire the headlights to come on when engine is on, and off when engine is off. Simpler than auto headlights, but serves the same purpose (making sure you change the bulbs often :-) )
Read it again. It is only if you fall under the "NORMAL" driving conditions. Do you? almost 90% of the drivers out there never fall in under "NORMAL" but rather "SEVERE" driving schedule, the interval for that is 5000 miles.
It pays to read the OWNER'S MANUAL, not skim though it.
The metal shavings should be filtered by the oil filter, if it is functioning properly, so there are no metal shavings floating in the oil.
The reason Honda recommends prolonging the first oil change is because of the high Moly content "break in" oil that every Honda engine is filled at the factory.
CR-V. With your 3rd child on the way it sounds like you'd be ready for an Odyssey or a Pilot.
90% of the time this would be excellent advice, but my CR-V is primarily used for highway cruising and suburban use. No commuting, no city stop and go, few short trips. The family fleet includes two 8-year-old Saabs, and mine is the one that's usually used for those purposes. So my reading of the Honda owner's manual didn't seem to insist that I was in the "severe" category, which, I agree, should include any car used for commuting.
It seems to me that fresh oil and filters is such a miniscule part of car ownership costs that choosing more frequent changes over less doesn't threaten the beer budget.
But as John the Host points out, there are drivers who get satisfactory results with more casual tactics.
Steve, Host
Sorry, Host Steve,for renaming you. My bad.
Your's is the argument of my missus. My retort is that changing oil quarterly as opposed to twice annually requires such a modest additional expenditure of oil, time and money that it's hard to put up a persuasive argument against it.
My neighbors, friends and relatives sometimes kid me for "over maintaining" my vehicles. However, when I'm in the mood to sell they show up checkbook in hand.
Since my vehicle ownership strategy is buy and hold, I'll follow the money.
I usually drive mine into the ground and take $1,000 on dealer trade so I don't have to face my neighbors.
Next time you're in Boise, yell, and I'll buy your wife a cup of coffee.
Steve, Host
Just don't forget, that severe schedule applies if you experience weather under 32°F or above 90°F, so, while you may only have highway miles, if it snows, or gets really hot in the summer where you live, you still have to abide by the severe schedule.
I garage my '99 Integra GSR every winter because I mainly use it for racing and wknd driving. It cannot be driven in bad weather. The first winter I did it (the car had about 15k mi. on it), I didn't change the oil before storage because I figured the oil was only about 8 weeks old and it had about 1200 mi. since the last oil change. Well 4mos later in the Spring before I took it out on the road I checked the dipstick and the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was almost black! It was a brown (almost light brown) color when I stored it. So basically the oil went about 6mos without being changed and its properties still changed and seemed to have broken it down more even though it wasn't driven. I then did a lot of research and found out there 's different types of chemical reactions that take place over time and I never stay with the same oil more than 3 mos. even if it's synthetic.
So SEVERE schedule all the way and for all my cars. You have nothing but to gain from this. Smoother running engine and maintain good gas mileage.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
mrdetailer, "Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2" #1079, 31 Dec 2001 1:13 pm
Feel free to continue over there and get back to the CR-V in here.
Steve, Host
If you really want to know how long it takes to break down the oil in our car, have it tested. Assuming the same driving habits are maintained year round (not likely for most people), have the oil tested after a 3 mo. change. Then again after a 4 mo. period. And once more after a 5 mo. period. Then you'll have a good baseline for deciding whether or not you'll require frequent changes.
**edit** oops, Steve beat me to the point on color.
Try it out next time. Plan it in advance, you get a container to collect a sample, mail it in, then it's analyzed for you down to the last chemical element.
-juice
The honda owner's website used to have a note about the factory oil (I haven't looked at the site in a while). It said that the initial oil should stay in as long as possible, because it had additives that helped break in the engine. I left my factory oil in until 7500 miles. Thereafter 5000 mile oil changes, sometimes 6000 if I had a lot of highway miles. Now I'm at 40k miles and back on even 5K schedules.
Anyway, I test drove extensively a different SE prior to purchasing and do not recall any similar noise in that particular SE. The only difference besides the color was that final assembly of the test drive SE was in England, and the vehicle was equipped with BF Goodrich tires. My vehicle's final assembly was in Japan, and it is equipped with Bridgestone tires.
I noted in some earlier posts other complaints about Bridgestone tires. Is this the same type of noise you other Bridgestone tire owners have experienced? Anyone successful in getting the dealer to swap out the tires?
The only other comments and questions I have is concerning the factory stereo --
I've noticed the bass response on the factory stereo is on the weak side. Has anyone had the Honda subwoofer kit installed in their CRV? If so, did you notice a big improvement?
Also, is anyone aware of an aftermarket auxiliary iPod jack for the CRV in order to avoid having to play your iPod through an FM modulator or cassette adaptor?
Otherwise, in the four days I've owned the vehicle, everything else has been has been perfect.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Regards,
Coltsfan18
There is a light in the dashboard telling you if one of the doors is not fully shut. You could have avoided the argument with the Mrs. :-) (OWNER's MANUAL is your FRIEND, not enemy, READ it a few times!)
I drive all my Hondas twice. When I first pick one out and put a deposit on it, and then at delivery/inspection time, before I sign the loan papers and all that.
You should also always write down the VIN # of the vehicle you test drove and made the deal on. Sometimes they 'll sell your car to someone else and try and sell you another one just like it. They 've done it to me but I caught it. They tried to sell me a Civic with a deep scratch on the hood that they had covered (badly) with touch-up paint. I first noticed the VIN# was different (it wasn't my first new car) and refused to buy that car after I got suspicious and started looking at it very carefully and found the scratch. That was in '93. I have not trusted any dealerships since, even Acura ones.
In your case it's most likely the Bridgestone Duellers. They can get pretty noisy but not like the door is open. You should take it back just in case and also ask them to test drive another CRV that has the same tires to compare the two.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Best I can figure is that you drove on smoother roads or simply didn't notice during the test drive. :confuse:
-juice
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But a 1,000 mile round trip on Interstates taught me that CR-Vs are only as quiet as the road permits. A nice fresh stretch of blacktop and they fairly hum along. But there was a stretch through NY State on 17/286 that was definitely trucky. It had something to do with the road surface, because the noisiness had a very clearly defined beginning and end point to the ear even though the demarcation line was invisible to the eye. My manly inquisitive nature prompted me to want to stop and check out the road surface, but my co-pilot, who seems untouched by any interest in impromptu scientific research, vetoed the idea.
Actually, it worked out well for me, because the road noise enabled me to get my copilot to stop playing her extensive CD collection of Overproduced Songs with Sappy Lyrics.
check your tire pressures. lube the door seals.
post back if it makes a difference, or not.
I've never had an SUV; still driving an '89 Toyota Sedan.
It's time to move on.
I noticed in some of the forums that many people complained about the 05 CRV's having a hard pull to the right. Also, if you go to http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complain/complaintsearch.cfm site, there are numerous complaints about this issue
and severe torque steer (whatever that is) for the 05 CRV.
Has anyone had this problem with the new CRV 06?
Thanks for any info?
Susan
Yes, I believe some 2006 models have reported PTTR (not the same thing as torque steer). Here's a condensed, but complete summary of the PTTR issue.
varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #17, 15 Apr 2005 11:20 am
Your best bet is to test drive the actual vehicle they want to sell you. Go to the dealer, take a drive in whatever vehicle they have handy, and agree on a price. When you are ready to pick up your vehicle, take THAT car for a test drive. If it pulls, tell them they must fix it before you will sign papers.
regards,
kyfdx
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