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Comments
Have accesss to fuel gage and preasure was good
Also, do you recall the valve I told yo'u about ? if so, have you located it ?
It is not recomenned to clean this valve BUT, I have cleaned many valves and got them to work. 1. remove valve, you will see 2 holes about 1/2 " diam. fill these holes with a good carb cleaner, let sit move plunger w/a small screwdriver, fill again,let sit 10 - 15 min. rince out with VERY HOT water, blow dry and reinstall,
It may or may not work properly, if not, replace with new valve.
replaced injectors
replaced fuel regulator
replaced fuel pump
fills the cylinders full when cranking it over. Should I put in a new computer?
? are you still running your fuel pump wired from batt power or w/the key.?
I don't think 28 lbs is enough. as I remember it should be 36-40 lbs.
I THINK your fuel pump relay and your injecter pulse whith are controlled by the PCM.
Having said all that, let me check w/my Ford buddys that still work on these.
Cliff
Send an e-mail to me with your Cell or Home phone #
I checked w/my Ford buddies and I have some info for you,
clifford20@comcast.net
Are you sure the pump is defective ?
You have a 20 amp fuse, fuel pump diode,and a fuel pump relay located in the fuse box under the hood.
I think the relay is towards the front of the box, you can switch it with another relay.
The diode is at the front of fuse box, there are 2 of them, small & black, 1 is for the A/C and 1 is for the fuel pump. you can switch these too.
Also check the crash cutout for the fuel pump, located inside the R.F. inside kick panel. You should be able to see the red plunger on top of this cutout,without removing anything, just make sure the the red plunger is pushed down.
If all this checks out, and you can't hear the pump run for 2-3 sec when you turn the key on.
Keep me posted
Cliff
Run these tests and let me know.
Cliff
Has power to the contactor and if jumperd fuel pump will run.
Question: does the computer control the ground to the fuel pump relay?
Is it ok to add ground? Is the fuel pump supposed to run all the time when power is on? it does when I jumper it.
Thanks in advance,
ST
If I remember correctly, look in the fuse box under the hood, you should find 2 small black diodes, i think they are towards the front a box. 1 of these diodes is for the fuel pump, the other is for ??? Try switching these 2 diodes and see if this fixes your fuel pump relay ground problem, if it does, buy a new diode and WALA.
Also, check the crash cut out to the fuel pump, I think it's located in the R. inner
kick panel. Make sure the button plunger is pushed all the way down, it will be a red button.
Keep me posted
Cliff
After a hundred or so attempts this morning and tonight with no success, the logical conclusion (well, logical for me anyway) is that the extra juice from the charger made the difference. Isn't 12 volts, 12 volts? If there were enough amps to keep turning the engine over I've got to believe there were enough amps to make the fuel pump kick in, right? I'm looking for some hints/suggestions. Even at auto zone the fuel pump assembly is $270. I'm broke and can't really afford spend that kind of money unless I'm really sure that will fix the problem. Is there a sure fire way to know the fuel pump is bad or going bad? Any assistance, thoughts, prayers, etc. is greatly appreciated.
radio off, Turn the key to the RUN pos. You should hear a low hum noise for 2-3 sec.
then it stops. If you hear this, then the relay and the pump are working. Do this then let me know what you find.
Cliff
clifford20@comcast.net
Cliff
Cliff
Let me know.
Cliff
Thanks
Also forget about the diodes up front, if your car starts and goes down the road, the diodes are OK.
It sounds like your problem is throttle position sensor. It is mounted on your air intake tube, has two mounting screws, is small & black plastic, with a # of wires going to it.
A new pump may fix your gas gauge, but it will not fix your running problem.
Cliff
See the thing is I have been questioning my fuel pump because of the fact I can hear it working strong, to me it seems like something is blocking the gas flow. Every sence my roomate ran her (meaning my car) out of gas and kept cranking it trying to start it is when I started having this problem. Tonight I was driving it over to my friends place so we can drop the tank and when I felt her hesitate getting ready to die I let my foot off the gas and coasted down the street with my flashers on and it was like she started zooming down the road again, so i lightly pushed on the gas pedal and away we went, then she like chug chug and the engine light came on I let off the gas and the engine light went off and we drove to my friends house with out her cutting off.
thank you again....
and listen for a humming noise that last for 1-3 sec. and stops. If it does this, look on your fuel rail for a port that looks like a tire valve, the fuel rail is on top of your eng and is stainless steel, looks like chrome. Remove the valve cap and depress the valve stem with small screw driver, ball point pen or anything you can find. DO NOT have y.our face over this port. It should shoot a stream of gas out of the port. If it dose, your pump is building up ample pressure. If it just dribbles out then let me know, and I'll point you to another area
Cliff.
cup and it has a vac. hose on the top. Do the same test as before, only this time pull off the vac. hose and see if there is any gas in this hose. if so replace this valve. if ithis valve is DRY,
them your pump may be the problem.
1 other thought, get a feul pressure gage from Auto-Zone ( rent at no charge ) and hook it up the the test port on the fuel rail. The fuelpump should build up about 40-45 lbs. pressure. If it does your pump is ok, but you could have a fuel injector not holding pressure and leaking into the cyl.
Do these checks and let me know.
Cliff
Any ways do you think this could be a faulty Fuel Pump, my other one I had no problem hearing it this one i have to strain to hear it, and it did not correct my fuel gage problem, I have a full tank and it just started reading 1/2 a tank, it just verys some times it reads a quarter of a tank.
So far this project has cost me a total of $500.00 parts and labor and I am at my witts end a couple guys that work with me at the Auto Auction we are going to start from the rear and work our way to the front cleaning and inspecting every inch of this vehicle to figure out what the hell could be causing this. It is rediculous that Ford has not come up with a solution to this matter, Seeing that it is a on going problem with this make and model, you would think they would do everything in their power to fix or at least pin point why we are all having the same problem, with the way the economy is today we do not and can not afford being with out our vehicle let alone paying cost after cost to keep doing the same job over and over due to faulty parts and not knowing why this keeps happening to this vehicle. If you come up with any other ideas what may be causeing this problem, please I am all ears.
If we run into anything I will keep you all posted, we are going to clean, test, make notes of everything that is being done to my 1990 Ford Taurus L 3.0 6cly 4 door sedan....
Please any suggestions would be greatly appreciated..
Thank You... S
Turn ign key from off to the run pos. listen for a humming noise that lasts 1-2 sec. then stops..
Does the car run at all ?
Cliff