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I have new one, transmission-related on my 2004. After fully warming up (in traffic or on the highway), and pulling up to a stop (usually a stop sign or traffic congestion where you pull up really slowly) the auto-tranny will shift down into first or disconnect the torque converter, whatever it's doing, with a really violent thump. Engine RPM dips and then comes back to idle (600). It feels similar to driving a stick and not releasing the clutch when stopping until the very last moment. Fluid level seems ok, only 25k miles on it. Not a huge problem, but am I about to lose the transmission?
Funnily enough, I just did mine two days ago for the first time (it's a '99). Don't forget to use dielectric grease on each of the socket's pin location holes.
"TSB NUMBER: 08-15-99
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: May 21, 1999
THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN NUMBER 08-20-98 REV. A, DATED OCTOBER 2, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES AND NOTED IN THE BOUND TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN BOOK, PUBLICATION NUMBER 81-699-99003. THIS IS A COMPLETE REVISION TO THE PROCEDURE.
SUBJECT:
Erratic, Intermittent Cluster Operation/Intermittent Air Bag Warning light.
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a repair harness containing a revised instrument cluster connector.
MODELS:
1998 - 1999 (TJ) Wrangler
1998 - 1999 (XJ) Cherokee
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Some vehicles may exhibit an intermittent illumination of the air bag warning light or an intermittent tachometer or speedometer drop out. An Airbag Electronic Control Module (AECM) fault code - "No Cluster CCD BUS" message will be present.
DIAGNOSIS:
Using the DRB III(R), read and record all active and stored fault codes in the AECM. This condition is caused by minor oxidation of the BUS circuit terminals at the instrument cluster connector. Electrical terminals will show signs of oxidation, which will appear as darkened lines or marks on the cluster male terminals. These often appear as gray or black marks rather than the appearance of oxidation or corrosion usually associated with higher current carrying circuits. This condition will set a "NO CLUSTER CCD BUS" message. The fault code will usually be stored and not active. THIS TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN WILL NOT ADDRESS FUEL OR OIL PRESSURE GAUGE ISSUES. If this fault code is present, either active or stored perform the Repair Procedure.
PARTS REQUIRED:
1 05016261AA Cluster Connector Patch Harness
1 04856975 Electric Contact Cleaner
2 04778570 Heat Shrink Tubing
POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.
TIME ALLOWANCE:
Labor Operation No: 08-90-90-91 0.6 Hrs. "
I doubt you're about to lose the transmission, but it really only needs to keep going until you can drop it off at the dealer to get it taken care of under warranty.
It rather sounds as though it could be connected with the torque converter locking up when it's not supposed to. Whether it a fault with the t/c itself, or whether it's being commanded to lock at the wrong time I don't know. You probably can't fix it yourself, so off to the dealers with you
I was wondering is anyone had encountered this problem before.My 97 Tj will not hit over 85 mph. Thats it!I have asked other Tj owners and they say theirs hit 100mph.I am wondering if it could be the catalytic converter or the tires.I have a 2.5L with 31 size tires.Also,when i am cruising a certain speed(like 65 and im in 5th gear)I have to down shift to maintain in a small hill.the pedal to the metal and i see no advancement.Your expertise will be appreciated.
You can will help me achieve the ultimate off roading machine.Thanx
If you really need to make a Wrangler go 100mph, then buy a 4.0 or install a supercharger.
Well maybe you don't believe it but I'd say he has a good chance of being correct. I'm sure you have stripped bolts and rattling parts, but they're most likely caused by the vibration and aren't the cause of it!
A six inch lift is difficult and/or expensive to set up for satisfactory use at highway speeds, and I've never heard anyone who says it's perfect under all conditions. A six inch lift with 35" tires is usually done to enable better offroad performance and it's not realistic to expect it to perform well on the highway too
There are things that can be done to place less strain on the propeller shafts but you'd have to explain what lift components you have on your Jeep first. Do remember that a six inch lift is an 'extreme' lift.
Pro Comp Explorer make a TJ lift, but the highest is a 4" and it doesn't require anything to welded to the axles. From what I can see, neither kit makes provision for either raising the motor mounts or lowering the transfer case. Neither do they include, though they do recommend, a transfer case tailshaft conversion kit (commonly called a Slip Yoke Eliminator or SYE kit) which will allow the use of a rear propshaft with a double cardan joint (often incorrectly called a CV joint) like that fitted to the front.
It's also possible that either axle may need to be rotated upward, though this is not ideal. Without knowing exactly has or hasn't been done to your particular Jeep it's hard to take it much further. Also remember that every Jeep seem to respond a little differently to suspension modifications.
Probably the first thing to establish is whether you really have a '99 TJ, or some kind of converted YJ.
You can't really compare a Wrangler to a Ford pickup. The Ford has a totally different suspension and a much longer wheelbase.
The best advice I can give you is to find a specialist 4x4 shop rather than a Jeep dealer, explain the vibration problem you're having, then have them put your Wrangler on a lift and explain to you what you have and don't have under there. Once you know the details of your lift you're then in a position to decide what alterations you may need to make.
i have not been able to find out if i have a spark any where as of yet.
do you this that my coil could caused these problems.
the fuel in tank is fresh since i just replaced the fuel pump and filter on friday.
i had a reddish spark at the plug it died and stop at the same time.
thanks for the help but i still have that problem
i have good blue sparks now but when it dies i have gas present at carb.
Check that the fuel tank is vented ok (leave the cap off while you test run the engine), and that any cold start enrichment device (choke) is disengaging after the engine starts to run.
If you have the correct fuel/air mix, plus compression, plus a spark at the right time, it will run.
Thanks!
tidester, host
The calipers move on guides and bushings and they might have worn. You might also want to check for play in the wheel bearings. You really need to be 'hands on' to properly check this one out.
I have a 2000 Wrangler (Sahara) that I purchased brand new. I love this car & I never had any problems w/ it. A couple of days ago the check gauges light came on then it went out (immediately). It was due for some minor things so I bring it to where I usually do, they check it out fine.
The next day the same check gauge light comes on w/ a drop in oil pressure. I just changed the oil but I check it again & I have plenty of oil. I bring it back & they find it only has 8-9 lbs of oil pressure. In addition they find metal shavings & pcs in the oil pan. I'm told I need a complete engine rebuild or a new engine.
This engine only has 70,000 miles on it, has been maintained & not abused. Has anyone else had this or heard of this problem b :confuse: :confuse: before? Any thoughts suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Three options are open to you. One, replace the engine, either new, rebuilt or secondhand. Two, rebuild your engine. Three, drop the oilpan and repair as necessary.
If it was me, and I'd be doing the labor myself, I'd pick option three. It would involve dropping the pan, replacing the shell bearings on the rods and mains, replacing the oil pump, then reassembly. Obviously the crankshaft journals would be checked before going ahead, and there would be a small risk that there might be some debris remaining in the oil system.
However, if I was paying for labor I may well end up choosing a new or reconditioned engine with a warranty (but that's just me).
Good luck!
If it's a connection it could be anything from the battery itself, to maybe the PDC (Power Distribution Center). Unless it's something very obvious you'll need to get to work with a good multimeter and the electrical diagrams in the FSM (Factory Service Manual).
They told me not to drive it for 24 hours because the back windows needed to dry first. The rear window is about an inch out at the bottom. I can put my little finger between the window and the rubber. Is there an ajustment I could make. I hate taking it back to the dealer but I might have to...its been very wet lately in Ct.
This is a Jeep, not a Mustang. The ultimate off-roading machine was not designed to go that fast. With a short wheelbase, stiff springs, and the aerodynamics of a gas station, all it will take is one little rise in the road that you may not even see, and that TJ will become total carnage.
Our Jeeps were designed to do amazing things at 5mph, and highways are just the long boring stretches between trails.
i finally got my jeep to run
it was the engine control unit ( computer )
i replaced it and it runs great.
but had replaced just about the entire electrical
system.
thanks for the info
john & trisha
-THANKS
Did you ever get your's fixed?
If you have a hard top it must be removed and the soft top must be disconnected from top of the windshield frame. I don't have a soft top so I am being assumptive as to how you remove it.
Remove the bolts holding the roll bar to the windshield frame. Remove the bolts holding the bracket at each side of the dashboard where the windshield assembly hinges (on the inside of the Jeep). The windshield should now rotate toward the hood. Disconnect the old motor and replace with new. It may also be a good idea to replace the cowl seal while you are in there.
Good luck!
Have you exceeded the mileage limit of your warranty?
What would be the next place/part to look into to fix this problem? Any help would be great.
Thanks
Steve, Host