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Chevy Silverado Problems

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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Did you enter your VIN?

    You can do a search at www.alldata.com or www.nhtsa.com for TSB headings.
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    reb12reb12 Member Posts: 41
    The latest problem with this 99 Silverlemo
    I am having is the tailgate won't latch. But I guess this is minor compared to all the serious problems with the tranny, breaks, windows, blaw....blaw...blaw. This is the biggest piece of sh.. vehicle GM has ever produced. Then they won't back it up! I will never buy GM agian!
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    chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
    On the throttle body. Are they required to replace on the early 99's for sticking?
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    check under the silverado topic.
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    quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    >The latest problem with this 99 Silverlemo
    I am having is the tailgate won't latch. But I guess this is minor compared to all the serious problems with the tranny, breaks, windows, blaw....blaw...blaw. This is the biggest piece of sh.. vehicle GM has ever produced. Then they won't back it up! I will never buy GM agian!<

    Whaahhhhh!!!
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    chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
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    chevy4mechevy4me Member Posts: 203
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    come on guy, you can do better than this.LOL
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    michgndrmichgndr Member Posts: 160
    Bummer about the tailgate. To latch it, you have to lift it up first. Works every time.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    the tailgate is not correctly aligned. My Nissan started to do that after I backed into a wall.
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    michgndrmichgndr Member Posts: 160
    Lift the tailgate, so it's vertical.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    lift the tailgate so that it's in a vertical position to latch....hey we talking to Tundra owners or what?
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    quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    ...to adjust the latch on tail gate. Just use a torx wrench on the post, loosen it, move it a bit, tighten it down....Whallah!
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    do you have to say presto before you fully tighten it?
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    ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Spoke with a relative last weekend, someone he knows test drove a new 2wd reg. cab and it had the highway speed vibes, took it back to the dealer, no GM for him.
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    kimmers71kimmers71 Member Posts: 55
    In response to the piston slap, we weren't given anything but were told that once the redesigned pistons were out, they would replace our existing ones. The service department just did a "piston soak" and the ticking is gone. My husband took it in so I don't know everything they told him.

    Would it be possible to get a copy of that "Technical Assistance Request" that they gave you? E-mail me at kimbrass@yahoo.com.
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    punjabpunjab Member Posts: 102
    I had the rado in the shop for a power steering squeal (where they replaced the hose and nothing changed) so I asked again to take a look at the engine ping/knock. Here is what the ticket says...(sorry about the poor grammer, but this is verbatim)

    "Check for engine clatter on accceleration found normal amount of spark knock. Check for codes found none check fuel pressure found pressure at 62 psi. Injector balance good at 13 psi drop. Fuel to air ration at 14.7 to 1. Spark advance good low being 6 degrees high being 28 degrees. It is normal for engine to have small amount of spark knock this is how PCM controls timing by advancing timing until spark knock is heard and then retarding. This gives optimium performance. Also not different gas standards will affect this also."

    There it is, straight from the man who didn't fix my truck...
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    ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    Got a question-seen on the Pacific Audio GM truck site some talk about an EVO module, dealing with the speed sensitive steering on '97 and newer trucks. Some have said they experienced shaking in the steering wheel and have had this module replaced and it has cured it, could this be something in regards to the shaking in alot of the Silverados?
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    xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    Replacing a module to cure steering wheel vibration? Sounds to good to be true. After changing tires, wheels, driveshafts and reprograming the PCM, maybe the dealer will give it a try.
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    csfcu2csfcu2 Member Posts: 4
    I don't have a scanner, otherwise I would gladly email you a copy of the "Tech Assistance Request" I was given re: Piston Slap. I will be meeting with the sales mgr next week to get a clarification on the Piston Slap, will let you know what comes about.
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    ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    sure sounds like a too good to be true thing. From what was said, there is a fuse for the speed sens. steering, a person should be able to pull the fuse, and drive the truck, should operate like any other vehicle w/power steering?
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    The EVO sensor replacement was for the old style '97-'99 C/K trucks. It did not include the new style 'rados.
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    xbbusterxbbuster Member Posts: 145
    I knew it, I just knew it! Too good to be true.
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    ricschricsch Member Posts: 540
    how does the speed -sensitive steering work on the newer trucks, Did GM find a better/different way?
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    just haven't had time to look up the answer. Got a meeting with the shop foreman today to discuss the installation of the anchor for the child seat. Will ask him the same question about the EVO. Doubt he'll know the answer but no harm in asking.
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    sfisher1sfisher1 Member Posts: 3
    Bought 2001 Silverado 4-door x-cab in oct. 2000. LS, 5.3, leather, step bars, dual exhaust, pewter-I absolutely love it-especially the motor. About 2 months ago, i started to get a loud thump or clunk out of the right front (you can "feel" it on the floorboard if you sit on the passenger side) either from the suspension or brakes (i'm surmising). It only happens under braking. if i hit a series of small bumps in the road, or one decent bump, and i have the brakes on fairly hard-it happens, you can literally "feel" it. My wife will no longer ride in the vehicle because she thinks it is going to flip over or something (I tried to tell her that it wasn't a Ford). here is where it gets good: First trip to dealer:They found a "Loose body on frame mounting bolt-basically blamed it on my step bar installation (bolts torqued to specs with a torque wrench). and it was fine for about a month, and then the clunk came back. Second trip to dealer: Tech says that the bolts and everything is tight in the front end/suspension/brakes and that the noise is the ABS dump sensor johnsonrod or something like that and is NORMAL for this make and model vehicle. (it usually happens when i am turning right and braking). He took me for a drive in a brand new 1500 and when he cranked over the wheel all the way to the right-he could get a slight clunk (out of the driver side front end??) while braking HARD. I said thanks for nothing and asked how they could fix it once but now that is normal? Also, my father has an IDENTICAL vehicle that has never done that-we can't even get a thump when cranking the wheel over all the way like the tech did with me. (after this time I had called GM customer service (useless) and they told me Sorry, but the tech says its normal, so it must be )Third trip, different dealer: As soon as i drove with a tech, he acknowledged a problem and told me of a Service Bulletin on the coil spring isolaters in the front end and guessed that the problem was there. (I had to rent a car on my own to get back to work from this dealer as they are 35 miles from me-I got lucky and they had to keep the truck overnight and GM comped the rental car). Picked it up the next day, and the tech told me that they replaced all front isolaters (left and right, top and bottom) and that "Someone (Main Street Chevy in Gainesville, FL)" had A.rubbed grease all over an obviously damaged isolater(rubber mount) to try and quiet it and that, B. "someone" had removed the coil spring on the right side at least once (he said he could tell by the bolt), and C. any tech worth a lick would have told me about the Service Bulletin on that truck. While driving home that day-it did it again (not as bad or as loud, but it still does it intermittently). Needless to say i called the first dealer and lit them up and then called GM customer service and lit them up (to no avail of course). The second dealer I went to (who I actually somewhat trust now-at least they tried) said to bring it back and they will take another look at it (4th trip for the same problem). I am a GM retiree's son who wants to buy GM, or at least American, but this is ridiculous. Now what? Do I call the BBB and go to arbitration or do i claim Lemon Law? I bought the truck with GMS pricing and got a great price, and I love the truck, BUT....I feel that under the bumper-to-bumper warranty like they should start replacing right front end brake/suspension parts until they fix the problem. All this happened while my wife's friggin' 2002 TrailBlazer was in the shop on recall. General Motors is batting 1.000 with me right now. Anybody else have this problem, or any suggestions would be helpful!!
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    csfcu2csfcu2 Member Posts: 4
    I met with the svc mgr at the dealership. This so called piston slap is a widespread problem. He said that a "piston soak" would only cure the problem for a short period of time. I think I will wait for a few months and hold off for new pistons or new engine. It is imperative that you get something in writing or have GM commit to an extended warantee for this problem if you are nearing your standard 3yr/36,000mi warantee. I live in a rural town and another rado owner I was told about was nearing his 3yr/36,000mi warantee (they extended it to 5yr/60,000mi) to get him through to the end of the year. For what it is worth. Good Luck!
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    wight1wight1 Member Posts: 218
    I spent half the day on Saturday removing and reinstalling the Westin step bars on my 2500 LD extended cab, trying to get rid of the popping and clunking noise they make whenever I'm turning or in a frame flex condition. I retorqued all the bolts, greased all cab mount bushings and step bar brackets and made sure the braces were not rubbing anywhere on the cab mount brackets. Noise is still there. Anybody have any suggestions for fixing this? The noise is making me crazy!
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    kimmers71kimmers71 Member Posts: 55
    Thanks for the info! It has only been a few weeks and my husband is already hearing the noise again. I will have him go and get something in or try and get them them to extend the warranty.
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    blair223blair223 Member Posts: 20
    I installed the Westin step bars on my 2000 2500 and have not heard any noises. When I bolted the braces to the supplied brackets I noticed that the angles were not exact so the surfaces did not lie flush to each other. I cranked on the wrench until the surfaces were flush and the bolts very tight. The cab bolts I torqued to spec.
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    wight1wight1 Member Posts: 218
    I can't seem to get rid of the noise. I noticed the same problem with the brace angle, so I tightened them real good. And I also used a torque wrench on the cab bolts. The Westin instructions said 65ft-lb. on all the bolts, and the GM factory service manual says 63, so that's close enough. The noise is a lot less after I worked on it this weekend, but the left front bracket or brace still pops over every bump at low speed.

    Usual deal too - the dealer says its the bars, the place where I got the bars says its the cab mounts, so guess who gets hosed?
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    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    On my 2001HD CC LB 5speed 6.0L 4x4 stripper. Still perfect, zero defects.

    My '99 had problems with steering shaft, rear diff pinion seal leaking, and ping under load with reg gas cured with premium. All eventually fixed.

    I'm really happy with the 2001HD. Bugs on the '99 1/2 ton were a bit of a bother, but not giant problems.

    BTW, My transfer case lever rattles on both vehicles. If you have a rattle at speed, reach down and remove the free play in the lever and see if that eliminates the noise. The ball and socket joints on the transfer case shifter connecting link have too much play....
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    my '00 is going in the shop on monday for this same problem. when i first went in, they started to just do the normal write up and i was just suppose to leave the truck there. no way, i asked that someone go for a ride, instead of waiting to pick it up with the infamous "noise can't be duplicated" routine. first speed bump had the shop foreman scratchin his head. after a few more tweaks and creaks, he asked if i could leave the truck for 1-2 days, as this is something totally new to him. truck has 34,000 on it and the service manager knows i use it for long distance and not to worry if it gets past the 36K mark as he is aware of my other complaint, engine has the low end rattle that sounds like a diesel. soon as i find out what they do to remedy the cab sound, i'll let you know.
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    maybe it's time to trade for a 2500HD. Them Tundra owners will tell ya not to keep the truck past it's warranty period. Hehe.
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    but we gotta be real nice to each other over there, if ya know what i mean. LOL
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    obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I consider myself a VFW. Veteran of Foreign War....BWAHAHAHAHA!!
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    dmnsmith2dmnsmith2 Member Posts: 21
    I am going to buy a new Silverado 4X4 soon and need to know from you that own this model if there are a lot of problems with the truck. I really don't want to buy a $30K truck and have to take it to the dealer every other week. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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    mledtjemledtje Member Posts: 1,123
    Mine had the same rattle on my 1500 4x4. First time, the dealer greased the joint and it stopped. About 3K later it started again. I took it apart and added a shim washer to reduce the play to zero and the noise was permanantly gone.

    It hasn't happened on my 2500 - yet. When it does I will make the same fix.

    Mike L
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    markbuckmarkbuck Member Posts: 1,021
    My fix involved popping off the ball joint, and installing a "rejected ePTFE madical grade vascular graft" that's about .040" thick over the ball, and reinstalling. Nice having good stuff to scrounge at work....

    Gonna do the 2500HD this weekend...
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I've got a loaded 2001 Silverado 1500 LS, ext-cab, 5.3L, Z-71 etc.
    Built on Dec 6th 2000 at Ft. Wayne Indiana. Picked it up from the dealer on Dec 19th, 2000.
    I've got 4035 miles on it now and it has been absolutely flawless.
    No recalls and not a single problem what-so-ever.
    No rattles, squeaks, clunks, vibrations, engine knocking, wind noise, etc.
    Great acceleration, braking, and just a pure joy to own and drive.
    I'd buy it again in a minute....well, actually after 3 hours. That's how long it took me to go through every little thing on it at the dealer. I wanted to be very sure that everything lined up, everything was installed and done properly, it drove smoothly, and there would be no initial problems. To my relief there wasn't anything wrong with it, and I've never been back there since.
    It has perfect initial quality.

    -David
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    6 months and only 4K miles?

    you better get out and drive that thing haha

    Ryan
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I know I know. I only need to drive 3 miles to work so the miles aren't adding up very fast.

    We've got a family vacation trip planned this July.
    Going to take "the truck" to Montana to visit my parents.
    About a 600 mile trip one-way.
    I'll finally be able to see what this truck will get for gas mileage on the highway!!
    The speed limit in Washington is 70 mph and I think it is the same in Idaho too. The posted speed limit in Montana is 75 mph now instead of like it used to be "Reasonable and Prudent". But with the wife, a 4 year old son, and a 1 year old daughter onboard, I'll have to keep it under 80 mph.

    It is definitely not flat country. I've got 4 passes to go over and they range from 3,000 feet to 6,450 feet. So that will impact gas mileage a little.

    We usually take the 1997 Saturn SW2 wagon. It is a little under powered when it comes to going over the passes with the AC on. Shouldn't have that problem this year!

    -David
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    Under 80?

    Ive had mine at 80+ a few times doesnt even feel like your going fast (especially when i was getting passed)

    Ryan
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    I agree, these trucks don't feel like they are going as fast are the speedometer shows.

    Gotta think about the family thought my friend.
    I'm not worried about my driving abilities, I'm worried about those other vacation drivers and all the deer and elk that tend to wonder onto the highway. The more the speed the longer the slowing down distance or stopping distance.
    I've made this trip probably 20 times, lots of carcasses along the road.
    Ever seen what a vehicle doing 80+ mph looks like after hitting an elk?
    Not a pretty sight. Not even sure the guard that you have on the front of your truck will help much. Some of those things stand 6' at the shoulder.
    And besides....it's a vacation.

    -David
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    jaguar0027jaguar0027 Member Posts: 387
    Still no problems with your Rado eh? That is great to hear. You should post that on some of the Tundra topics... LOL

    My only real complaint so far is the annoying squeak I have inside the cab behind the drivers seat. Can seem to figure it out! Obviously my deaf local dealership can't as well! LOL Looks like I gotta figure this one out myself!

    Jim
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    blair223blair223 Member Posts: 20
    Check the upper latch on the rear door. Put white grease on the U shaped metal loop on the cab body. I had rub marks on the stationary part of the latch and greasing it and the loop, stoped the squeak (for now).
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    just dropped off the truck for the snap crackle pop sound that i think we both share. this time was a first. the shop foreman went about 30', and snickered, said it is from the cab mount insulator that has shrunk, and the cab bolts have known to cause this problem by either rubbing into the cab housing, or just not hold their torque setting. i'll get the truck back tomorrow, and i'll update what i find out.

    -
    squeaks were non existant in both of my trucks until the '00 hit around 9,000 miles and was 6 months old. after lubing the weather stripping with silicone grease, all was quiet. tried grease on the latches, but it made no difference. the '01 is just starting to shows signs of needing lube, but as it states in the owners manual, lubing the weather strip is part of normal maintenance.
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    dch0300dch0300 Member Posts: 472
    Well, my '01 has just a little over 4,000 miles on it and turns 6 months old in a few day. So I hope I'm not just lucky, but that the truck is actually built well. The only rattle that I had was caused by the extra coins that I keep in the ash tray. Fixed that by lining the ash tray with adhesive backed felt. Otherwise it's been rattle & squeak free since day 1.
    BTW, I have great hearing too.
    Lube the weather stripping? I'd better go read my owners manual.

    -David
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    ryanbabryanbab Member Posts: 7,240
    truck is 1 yr and 2 months old makes it 14 months old never lubed the weatherstripping

    No squeeks either
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    redsilveradoredsilverado Member Posts: 1,000
    that i live in as well. plus the fact that i washed the truck to death at first. all i know is that after lubing, mine was quiet again. i do see added parts on my '01 though that are not present on the '00.
    -
    david, in the owners manual you'll find it on the page that lists what to use for maintenance, and hopefully you don't experience any squeaks and rattles. that's the way it should be though. i like the ashtray trick, thanks for the idea.
This discussion has been closed.