Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Thanks again - I just recently found this bulletin board and have enjoyed reading up.
Your locking system should have enough vacuum to operate reliably 6 - 7 times after shutting off the system, as long as the components are not leaking. On a 1980 there's a real possibility of leaks. The vacuum storage tank is in the trunk on this model I believe.
A real easy way to see if the system is sound is to run the car, then shut it off and lock the doors. Check the fuel door to see if is locked. If it is, then let the car sit for awhile, perhaps overnight, and check it again. The locking pin on the fuel door is spring loaded (it's the only element that is), so if the vacuum is leaking out, it will unlock by itself.
Let me know if I can help you, I have quite a bit of experience with the locking system, climate control, and electronics on these models.
A new question for the group. My car (1980 450SL) has the Becker Mexico AM/FM cassette, with the 2 dash mounted speakers. Anyone have any experience upgrading to a AM/FM/CD unit, and adding addition speakers? Successfully? Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Is this a simple fix through disassembling the seat and lubricating some parts? Does the back of the seat come off easily?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
We had a custom auto-audio shop build subwoofer enclosure in the ledge area behind the seats. Started out by ripping out the existing pressboard and plywood and old speakers that were there and designing an accoustically correct sound box. It raised the height of the ledge about 2" from stock, bit gave enough room for a nice subwoofer and about a 1" tall slit opening facing forward. We then covered it with matching carpet. Can't even tell it's there, except when the stereo is on.
Those are pretty nice, not all that different from the stock wheel really.
It's funny, I'm always so impressed at how much difference new tires makes in the ride, and by 30 kmiles or so I've forgotten and am so suprised all over again. Probably some sort of pre-alzheimer's.
What I personally don't like on an SL is chrome wires. They are just wrong for the car, especially 14" wires. Wire wheels really need to be "big and airy" (so you can see through them) and also work best on cars that are somewhat old-fashioned in design (e.g., older British or American cars).
So I'd check all maintenance records and also play with every dial and knob numerous times to make sure everything works. Also, of course, a complete mechanical inspection would reveal any oil leaks, which can occur over time as seals dry up.
I would just plan on having the AC rebuilt and converted to the new coolant if not already done. Also, I've ended up replacing struts and shocks on all 3 of our past MBs by 80Kmiles, and new rotor discs every 60-80kmiles (the SLs are not light cars). One of the more expensive electrical issues can be the ignition system's electronic "brain". Unfortunately, there isn't much warning before it goes bad. Luckly there are rebuilt units for a couple hundred (as opposed to $2K new!!). Another thing to check is the fit of the hard-top. Many will sit around a garage for the life of the car and can be "sprung" by a bad drop by getting tipped off their storage cart.
If it's leaking ANY oil or fluid, find out from where. Some of those seals and gaskets can be expensive to replace and some are not very expensive at all.
My wife's 380SL seems to be fairly reliable. We are the second owners having been given it by my wife's boss about 2.5 years ago with 85kmiles. The car was basicly in good shape but needed some maintanence attention and cosmetics. But as Shifty points out, these do add up. We had our mechanic to a total top to bottom inspection and R&R on it for roughly $6k. We've been doing little more than oil changes and lubes since then. We also had about $6k in cosmetic fixes done, some of which I listed in my earlier message, and have added new wheels and a few other little stuff. I guess we probably have $14-15k into it, over and above getting the car we started with for free. Given the actual value (if we went to sell it) is probably a hair over $10K, this is not a money making proposition. However, people are always commenting on the car. My wife just loves it. And any kind of new car with the same kind of presence will be at least $45K. The first couple years depreciation will more than make up for what we've spent. Oh, and did I mention, my wife is happy (go figure the monetary value of that) :-)
If you do consider a 380SL in particular keep in mind that the 81-83 models had a single chain timing chain that was somewhat problematic. The 84-85 models had double chains. Many of the 81-83 models have been retrofitted.
Modern small 4-cylinder sedans generally do about twice as well on mileage.
$600 for a new top on an SL is a hell of a price. I can't comment on the quality, not seeing the $600 item. The factory top is a high quality German canvas and has a very intricate padded lining. Of course, as the old SLs are not high dollar cars, it makes sense to find a good quality economical replacement, even if it doesn't quite duplicate factory standards. $1,200-1,500 is a bit much for a top! Also I think where you live will vary the price, as labor is a big part of the price tag on these tops.
The extra $$ might be worth it if it dampened the road noise. One thing about a convertable top is that things get noisy at freeway speed.
The price seems low to me because I'm used to California labor rates, and the labor alone would be near $600....well, maybe not quite that but out this way even a lowly Miata top costs a bundle. My Alfa Spyder top was $800 but it was a beautiful top and a beautiful job.
Nothing looks worse than an SL with a slack top. The vinyl tops don't look very good on a Benz in my opinion. They are more suitable for American cars.
Shop rates here seem to still be in the $65-75/hr range, at least near my office in Mira Mesa. As you say though, you gotta shop around. Still, I wouldn't shop price alone.
Small example: My Mercedes diesel needs glow plugs. Well, you say, just like putting in spark plugs, any competent shop can do that.
Well now, not so fast. First of all there are two types available for my car, so you need to know that to get the right ones. Then there is a special "thread chaser" designed just for this purpose, that you must use to clean the carbon out of the threads. Why? Because the carbon can ground the glow plugs, even new ones (you put them in but they don't work correctly). THEN you have to know to spin the engine over to expel the crud you dug up in the threads. Then you need physical dexterity and patience and the ability to disconnect the then bleed diesel injection lines.
How'd I learn all this. I read the factory manuals carefully. How many "Hanses" who only work on Porsches will do this?
You might comb through Hemmings Motor News in the Mercedes parts section. It's possibly you could be lucky enough to score a good used one--but it would have to come from a very reliable source, or better yet, from a running car. Also there are rebuilders in Hemmings.
The Mercedes Club might be of help as well, and there are all kinds of SL specialists listed on the Internet.
Getting a trans rebuilt isn't hard but getting it done reasonably and done well is what takes the effort and research.
Anybody aware of a decent, mid-range ($400 or less) car stereo tuner/CD that still has knobs, a few buttons, and no flashing lights?
Good luck finding auto sound equipment that can be interfaced by real human fingers and eyes. The designers have all gone mad. If you're real lucky, you might find an actual round knob that adjusts the volume, but you'll never find a manual tuner knob anymore or any type of analog tuning. Too bad, too.
Who thought of remote controls for dash mounted stereos, anyway? I can still reach the stereo, thank you, and seeing as how I lose remote controls in my own home, I don't think one in my car is going to fare much better!
Anyway, my mom replaced the Becker in her 300E with a Sony in-dash single CD a few years back. You may want to do a search on the web, check Crutchfield (though I personally think they're a bit overpriced), or call your local Mercedes dealer or repair shop and ask advice.
Ah, the joys of an older car. What would I do with all that money of we didn't drive cars. :-)
www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Ig4NNrAnBbb/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=3&g=300&I=023SANDIEG&o=m&a=0
The Santa Fe CD32 is similar with a few more bells and whistles. If you want something a little nicer, check out the Nakamichis at http://www.nakamichiusa.com - these are VERY nice, clean looking, and probably have much better sound than my cheap Blau, but I decided I didn't need to spend that much.
-Jason (who hates "bling bling" stereos)
In the end I chose the Blau strictly on convenience and price - a local shop had the San Diego in stock for $100 ($60 less than Crutchfield!), while even the cheapest Nakamichis were $200+++ and I couldn't find a convenient source. If I were installing it in a Benz I probably would have cared more about sound quality but in a noisy, snarly Alfa about the best you can hope for is to hear it above the engine / wind noise. Good luck, and let us know how it turns out!
-Jason
Our second choice is made by Eclipse. It is kind of similar to the Blau in overall design, although the LED screens are a little more pronounced. But does have all the modern technology we are looking for including a separate sub-woofer channel and comes highly recommended by our install guy. At least it doesn't flash lights and silly designs ;-)
My wife decided not to wait (and pay more) for the Nak, so I'm going in Saturday for the Eclipse.
Has anyone else encountered this problem, and/or know of a fix?
Thanks!