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Thanks!
My brother's family has two Intrigues (01GLS and 99GLS) and we have two as well (01GLS, 01GX). We tall folks appreciate the extensive front legroom and the peppy 3.5L shortstar engine.
Sorry but do you think chevy will make a difference.
Same idiot management
same moronic cost cutting accountants
same stupid designers
same idiot engineers
same ignorant service mangers
same rude customer service
same incompetent mechanics
same crappy parts
same blinker plug assemblies
same hazard switches
same wheel bearings
same blower resistors
same window regulators
and same abs modules.
etc. etc. etc.
Did I also mentioned they're the same.
Cheat me once shame on you, cheat me twice shame on me.
My girlfriend recently inherited a 2002 Intrigue. It's a terrific car, but as of late it's begun to exhibit some odd symptoms. When trying to start the car, there's a brief click, and then nothing. The headlights and everything else work ok at this point. I've checked the cables to make sure they're secure, and tried switching out the starter relay, just to make sure that's not the problem. Now for the odd part: her stepfather (who had the car previously) told her that it occasionally had this problem, and that it could be addressed by moving the gear selector through the entire range (park all the way down, and back up again) several times, with a fair amount of force. This seems to do the trick, though sometimes it takes several tries to get it to work.
The last time she had the car serviced, it had thrown no error codes (other than for a misfiring cylinder that was then addressed). Anyone have any ideas? It seems to me to be a problem with whatever the modern equivalent of the neutral safety switch is, though I wouldn't even begin to know how to troubleshoot it on something as complex as an OBD II vehicle.
Thanks!
gaz
There are many places that sell ignition switches for these cars. It will cost you about $100 for the part. I went with Standard.
does it take a lot it looks like
i have done them before
on the olds it looks like i need to take the cooling system hose off and take out the plastic peice that holds the cooling fans in place
any ideas
thank you :mad:
Thanks!
That takes you to all the intrigue discussions.
Scroll down to the discussion with a lot of posts, the one called Oldsmobile intrigue and click on it.
Once in that thread, there is a box near the top and at the bottom of each message page that says go to mgs #.
Enter the number listed 10967 or 10968, click go and ta da!!
cheers
You can click here but you won't learn anything about the forum.
Thanks again!
As I'm typing I am remembrering the same problem and I did the battery thing. It worked but it was a while ago.
Good luck
Are there any other issues with the car?
Since you checked the fuses, i would check the headlight switch. Also check the connectors that hold the bulbs.
You can alos replace the speedometer cluster with a used unit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1998-Oldsmobile-Intrigue-Speedometer_W0QQitemZ150- - - 384262106QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item230399bb- - - da
Directions to remove the speedometer cluster are here: http://www.carspace.com/guides/Cleaning-the-Ignition-Switch-on-a-2000-Intrigue
these directions are for a 2000 Intrigue. Follow to Phase 2; number 3. Hopefully it's the same for a 1998.
You can always remove th speedometer cluster and check the bulbs. If that doesn't work, get the cluster from EBay.
Hope this helps.
00 Intrigue Ignition Switch Replacement
1. It will not start using the key, I have to jump the bottom two pins on the Crank relay. I have changed the crank relay, had the starter tested, checked all the fuses. Now it will only start for 2 or 3 seconds and then die....
2. The instrument cluster will not work at all now. the gauges would die and then come back. Not all at one time. Now all will not work.
I really like my car and want to fix it, I just don't want to spend allot of money on it.
Any help would great. Thanks in advance.
2. This could be related to issue 1.
Based on your post, you already eliminated the crankshaft sensor. It seems like it is not getting a signal from the ignition which leads me to suspect the ignition switch. (Surprise, surprise). It also could be the fuel pressure regulator. On another Intrigue forum, the FPR is another common problem as well. If the ignition isn't working, then I can see the instrument cluster also not working.
it seems like you are handy under the hood. I would check the pressure on the FPR. I think it is suppose to be in the 40+ psi range. If that checks out fine, I would look at the ignition switch. I posted directions; another forum regular posted pictures which are great. You can try cleaning the contacts or simply replace it. I bought mine at Fisher Auto parts (local) or you can order it from www.gmpartsdirect.com or www.rockauto.com. folks have had good luck with these two websites.
I have thought of the ignition switch before. A couple years and 100,000 miles ago I had the problem with making a left turn and it dies. I took all the keys off my ring except the car key and it stopped. I will check the FPR tonight.
I had the same thing happen to me with my Intrigue. The CEL are Check Engine Lights (Check Engine Soon; Service Engine Soon).
If the FPR checks fine, the igntion switch is likely the culprit.
Lights flickering, dash lights flickering, head lights do not work, if you push the cruise control the radio will not work. The high beams work only if you hold the turn signal back towards steering wheel. I replaced the headlight switch and it worked for about a year. I have checked the ground and I have also added extra ground wires in the engine compartment. I have checked the fuses, cleaned all the connections and used di electric grease. Still have the same problem. I guess my wife and I are spoiled because we also have a 1994 Olds Cutlass Supreme, the car has 300,000 miles on it and other then basic maintance items this car has been trouble free. Not insult intended but my wife does not take care of the car the way she should, she has changed the oil three times ( I have changed it or the shop has done the serviceing) This car gets almost 30 miles per gallon still, I wish they would have left great enough alone. I am at witts end with the electrical problem and I am not going to send to GM they will bleed you dry for a problem they created. Dont like foreign cars but at least they get a warrantee. :confuse:
Thank you
Good Luck
The mechanic that I took my car to, thinks the ignition switch is the problem. I'm currently looking for a reconditioned switch. Ordering a switch from the GM/Chevrolet dealer will cost about $200. Since my car is so old, I hesitate to spend that kind of money on it, although the engine and transmission are still functioning well. The wires that the turn signal plugs into have already been replaced. The mechanic didn't find a significant drain on the battery (ie a short). It's possible that when the ignition key is turned it shorts out for a moment.
If anyone has an insight into my problem please let me know.
Fully loaded in Bloomington, IN, we took off on a trip first to Cincinnati, then New Orleans, then Florida, then home. 20 miles from home we stopped for coffee at McDonald's. I went inside, and my wife stayed in the car. She came in about 5 minutes after I left her. The car had been idling, then idled rough (new gas?), then quit. She tried to re-start it, and it started, with rough idling and a "horrible smell". It stopped again.
Never to re-start.
The tow truck picked it up and took it to an agreeable mechanic who, after his lunch, put it on the rack. He found a starter with a broken nose. Replaced it. Bill for towing, charging, the rack, and broken starter replacement was $396. (I think he saw a traveller in need.)
However, when he put it back on the ground, it wouldn't start. The mechanic turned it over with a torque bar, and it would only turn 1/4 clockwise or 1/2 counter-clockwise. His diagnosis: Engine is frozen. His solution: junk the engine and put in a used one.
Estimate from another shop (that I trust to do the work is $2895. I don't think it is worth it.
QUESTIONS:
1. Would I get my money back if I put the $2900 work into it?
2. Would I have a car to still drive if I put the work into it?
3. Is it worth having the work done...or should I abandon this good looking vehicle to the salvage yard?
4. Finally...are there any ideas about WHY THE ENGINE DID THIS...and WHAT IS WRONG WITH IT?
Thanks for listening...
-Kurt-
REgarding the ignition switch, you can use an aftermarket switch. I replaced my switch using one I bought at a local auto part store. I think I paid around $100 for the switch and replaced it myself.
Good luck.