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Quite a while back, the cable for popping the hood came disconnected from the plastic lever. That was fine; I just kept a pair of needlenose pliers in the car and used that to pull the cable. However, the last time I tried to pop the hood, my hand slipped and I pushed the cable in a little too far. Now I can see the wire, but can't get to it. Help!
Is the battery voltage when off 12.6V if not you lose 2.1 per cell so if 10.5 approx you lost a cell so replace. When running the alternator on your gauge should show about 13.5-14V. If the screw in posts are all corroded clean with baking soda and water. Cables can get internally corroded and broken plus check all connectors are tight. Starter will show up on an amp draw test at the store too.
It has 109,000 on the vehicle. its the 4.3 vortec engine.
What I ended up doing is I took a sewing needle and used that to slowly ease the cable out until there was enough to grab with some needlenose pliers.
At random it will begin to slowly loose power as you drive it. This usually happens when you vary how hard you press on the gas pedal, for reasons such as when you go up a hill, or ease off the gas when you come up to a slower vehical. This problem gets to the point where you loose all power and pushing on the gas pedal does nothing. While driving, putting the pedal to the foor, it will only gear down and rev really high. Putting it in neutral, and putting the pedal to the floor will only rev it up to about 2000rpm and stay there. From a start it will go from 0-30kph (0-18mph) in about 5min! then when it at random, it will get all power back, and floor it as if everything was normal. It usually does this when you have to go somewhere, like school in the morning, or going home tired. it will do this off and on without warning. time/season does not matter. it doesn't do this in regular intervuls, so, its not every day. some times it will go for days, some its every day.
This engine was just rebuilt, and i've put 5 different carbeurators on in (used). The fuel pump, distributer, spark plugs/wires, fuel filter, exhaust and a few extras were either replaced, checked, redone. There is not catalytic converter on the tuck aswell. i've checked, and there is no pick up screen in the tank, so that can't be clogged, plus how full the tank is, doesn't matter.
If anyone has any idea what could be wrong with this vehical and causing it to do this, please tell me. i've been working on this truck for months, and 3 different experienced mechanics could not figure it out and i am fed up. I would Highly Appreciate all feedback.
Then, I noticed the oil pressure gauge was bouncing up and down as if it had a loose wire... i found none. The interesting part was that when it was showing good pressure, the truck ran fine. When the gauge dropped to almost zero, the truck started to run horribly. I knew that the oil pressure itself was not really low because of the way the gauge bounced back and forth like it wasn't connected well... but why would the truck think it was supposed to run bad just cuz the gauge said so? Even more bizarre... if the gas tank is running close to empty, and the oil pressure gauge drops low again, the truck will start to stall at idle and the "check gauges" light will come on. Anyone know what might cause this?
I now have an even greater problem,unfortunately, because now the truck just won't even turn over. Started with it not reacting to turning the key in the ignition and had the starter tested. Was told it was bad and put in a new one. I worked for all of about a minute! Took it back to Autozone and they said I had gotten a faulty one. Got yet another one which worked for about 2 days! The other problem with the check gauges light and the oil pressure gauge continued. Two days later the original problem with the key turning and having nothing happen had returned intermittently. Usually it only took 3 or 4 tries and it worked again... as if the battery had been re connected! a few days later and the truck stalled again from the low oil pressure right in the middle of the street and has not started again since. I'm stuck! I was told the computer needed to be replaced but I don't know if that is really it... Does the computer have something to do with ALL of the weirdness going on with my truck? Please... somebody tell me they've seen this before and know what i need to do! Thanks!
No, the MAF is not the same as the IAT but in the intake next to it. It is right next to the air filter housing and is the round metal 2-3" thick piece with an electrical connector plugged in - remove the hose clamp from the intake box and you will see the MAF mounting in the middle of the metal in a honeycomb structure. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner or brake cleaner to fix poor performance - it feeds air flow data to the computer and if dirty can lean out the fuel.
I got it fixed, it was the fuel pump. Does anyone know if there is a forum here to sell parts on? I had just put a sending unit into my 2000 Jimmy about 4 months ago, and figured id take it off the old pump and see if anyone needs one for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
Lots of info out there on it.
by the way,i'm chatting from St.John's. newfoundland and labrador,Canada.
regards
No, we are not set up for buying and selling in the forums.
tidester, host
Drive on over to my place!
Thanks!
hey.. a little off topic.. how good are those 4.3L engines? and i heard that a 5.7L can bolt right in place of one, and meet up with the tranny too, cuz its the same block minus 2 cylinders.
Is everyone using a block heater most days there right now?
Steve, Host
2. 5.7 will have space and weight problems so much work needed to change - many articles on that out there.
FROM SUMSBRAT OF GARDENA,CA.
Automatic could be many things - hope you have been changing the fluid and filter (Chevy says 20K miles) but at least every 50k and you are in CA with hot stop and go. Check the dipstick in the rear of the engine compartment that says trans on it - fluid should be to the correct line and red, not brown and should not spell burnt. Most transmission shops give a free checkout. Oh, see if you have reverse, if this is gone too you probably broke the sun shell in the trans (no rev, 2nd, 4th).
I do recommend that you turn off your CAPS LOCK. People tend to ignore postings typed in ALL CAPS because they are hard to read.
tidester, host
Drive on over to my place!
Kill the caps.
For Steve,if you visited St.John's you would have had to travel the trans canada highway and take the ferry at North Sydney NS to Port aux Basque,NL and drive to St.John's which would be a little over 500 miles,but a beautiful trip through 500 miles of Moose country.
Being retired I am not so much in a hurry anymore so I normally plug my Jimmy in for about 2 hours before I go anywhere when its -5*C (23*F).but I will assume that our neighbors in Labrador do daily plug in. They average around -10*C (14*F) to-30*C (-22*F),but it is beautiful this time of year for sking and snowmobiling.It's worth the trip.
regards
Steve, Host
Any of the gear train (4wd) locked on and causing the drag? You might want to get it to a dealer (heated shop) and let them take a look and on an analyzer to save yourself alot of searching.
Tom
Never been to Florida,maybe some day (I hope)
Tom
Even better, you could set up your own album and post some pics of your Jimmy in the wind and snow. :shades:
Steve, Host
As for the 4wd many problems can cause the locked on condition as your searches have found. My 01 locked and I released it by disconnecting the vac when running to the switch on the firewall (hear the release) - check all vac lines from the intake manifold to the left fender mounted reservior can, that switch on the firewall, then down the right side to the front axle actuator located under the battery tray. There is a sensor on the right axle that verifies the axle is coupled that sticks too. Then some have a cut wire to the xfer case motor or encoder. Then there is the computer/TCCM that gets all the signals. It can freeze like a windows PC so disconnect power from battery to clear (30 min I read) and many had this replaced - expensive. Wish mine had the old floor mounted lever!!
I own a 99 S10 Blazer, 4dr, 4X4 (with the electronic transfer). 4.3L, with 87k miles.
When driving along at 40, 50, or even 60 miles per hour, I have a low 'hum' while driving in 2 wheel drive. If I put the transfer case into 4 HIGH, the hum stops. Back to two wheel drive, and after a few seconds the hum comes back.
I guess i figured that maybe the differential needs fluid or something, but I have no idea about 4X4's. I've changed the diff fluid in my camaro before... but I'll be honest, I'm still in elementary school, or even Junior High when it comes to working on cars.
Any suggestions?
Also, to the folks with erratic fuel gauges... did they get fixed? If so, what fixed them. Thanks.
John
(now how do i open an album and send a few pics.
Tom
There's a help link at the bottom right of the page there too.
I just posted a "Welcome to Newfoundland and Labrador" pic on my Current rides album. :shades:
Steve, Host
I toured Cape Spear and hiked the East Coast trail to Bear Cove. But the Aleutian Islands are the farthest east spot in N. America since they cross the 180° meridian of longitude. :shades:
OK, enough of the weekend travelog; anyone got a problem that needs solving?
Steve, Host
But, that hum could be from many things. Hubs (sealed 1 piece bearings), u-joints, CV axle shafts, or the cases as you said. Good luck.
Fuel pumps and sending units are 1 piece on 98 up I believe so if not a wiring problem another quality GM part.
Thanks