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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • bertbbertb Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Blazer, runs great, recently have experienced the engine shuts off for no apparent reason. I have had it analyzed no valid codes, I have replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel quality from the tank, verified the fuel pump and pressure. It starts, and will run for a short period and then shuts off, thought it might be the oil pressure switch so I used the fuel pump test terminal to power the fuel pump and still shuts off.
    Anyone have any other suggestions?? Already spent enough $$$.
  • I just bought my 2000 gmc jimmy, and before the first payment was due, i paid out over 500.00 in repairs,, now it is stuck in 4wd. lights flash at 2wd button , but stays in 4wd,, any help..
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Find a dealer who can diagnose the lean fuel mixture problem rather than replacing O2 sensors for doing what they're designed to do. How's the fuel pressure? Fuel filter replaced? Any vacuum leaks?
  • fuel pressure 57 psi. normal. new fuel filter. no vacume leaks that i know of.
  • Mine just started doing the same thing. I'm going to do my own research. I will let you know what I find out. I'd appreciate if you would do the same. Good Luck! Chat with you soon. John
  • bank 1 driver side on exaust 2 passenger side on exaust #3 sensor is down line of these two sensor
  • It almost sounds same as my problem. I ended up replacing MAP and MAF sensors.

    For now, the way to get your truck start up, is to do this:
    1) Turn key on and start and hold it there for like 5 seconds
    2) Turn key off
    3) Turn key to On for 1/2 second then start for 1 second
    4) Repeat #3 about 3 or 4 more times and it should fire it up.

    In other words, 1 long start followed by a few quick short starts.

    Give it a try and let me know if it worked.
  • Matt,

    Honestly, I wouldn't buy a Blazer at all. Stay away. We got enough problems already. I read that '92 thru 2000 Blazers are not worth it. I've ready a lot of horror stories.

    I do even own the Blazer and wish I never bought it.

    I'm gonna trade it off this coming year for a foreign SUV, either a Pathfinder or a Forerunner cuz I read that they don't as many problems.

    My advice is, before buying a SUV, please read the forums for a particular vehicle that you're interested in and see if there's a lot of complaints or not.

    I wish I done that first before buying my Blazer.

    Oh yeah, and be sure to not to buy a Ford Bronco II at all. Also junk too cuz I owned it and they built bad tranny, 82 thru 92.

  • Had a similar problem today. Tried a few things like swapping out some relays which seemed to work in the past. No luck. Tried the "1 long followed by a few quick short starts" After a few tries it worked. What is the root of this problem, and why does this starting remedy seem to work? Thanks.
  • I have a 94 jimmy 4.3 liter. im trying to get the motor out but the oil pan hits the front diff. and the tranny is pulled back to the firewall. in need more clearnce. just wondering if i have to drop the transfer case and tranny frist then pull the motor or what? thanks for the help.
  • After I start up the engine a high pitched whine begins coming from the rear-end of the vehicle. ANy ideas?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Fuel pump.
  • Did you ever get the problem fixed? I am working on a 1995 GMC Jimmy with 118,000 mile and the same problem?
  • i have been trying to get the starter out it is unhooked ,but i cannot get it out is there a trick?
  • Debby,
    It is a vacuum-control system. I would check the vacuum connections first. Open the hood, and look at the upper-middle area of the firewall (above the distributor cap). there is a part there with two small nipples connecting vacuum hoses. I had one of the nipples break off. I super-glued it back on and the system worked fine. It could be that or those hoses.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Engine? 2WD, 4x4?
  • thanks anyway i had to take off all the hoses that were in the way
  • bill81bill81 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with a '97 blazer and I am stumped...I do not see the solution to this problem?
  • bill81bill81 Posts: 2
    Lowrider, did you find a solution?
  • Those of you who have 99 and up GMC Jimmys or Blazers know that the rear defrost is in part powered by two wires that hang from the top of the rear gate to the rear window. Recently, one of the wires came loose from the rear window. So in effect, I just have one of the wires hanging from the top of the rear gate. It looks like some sort of glue kept it up to the window. When I press the part that seperated from the window there seems to be an electrical spark. Does anyone know if it is OK to simply superglue or apply some sort of adhesive to this end to make it stick back on the window? will it affect the defrost capabilities? or should I take it in to have something like this fixed professionally?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Super glue won't do it, it'll cause a high resistance connection. Permatex and I think Loctite make adhesives specifically for that application. Should be available at any half decent parts outlet. Or drop into any windshield shop, they should have the right adhesive.
  • We've checked the fuel pump pressure it was over 50, there's no sign of any leaks in the gas lines, but it seems like its not getting any gas. When gas is poured directly into the carburetor it starts right off and runs until that gas is gone then dies. Then when we try to start it again it pops right off and runs fine. We just can't figure out what the problem is after the pressure valve since we know the gas is atleast getting that far. I'm afraid to drive it for fear of being stranded, so any suggestions you have would be greatly appreciated.
  • I have a 95 gmc jimmy with the 4.3 vortec and it sounds like the same problem i was having. My gas milage was cut in half, Smell of gas, rough idle,chugging on takeoff, backfires, black stuff out the exhaust, intermittent service engine light that drove me nuts.... I replaced several of the components you had with no fix either. Finally I found out that the fuel injector unit went bad, but only half of it. It fired on 3 cylinders and ran but not very well. I did'nt know that the injector units in the vortecs have a line to each of the cylinders, and that those individul lines can go bad causing a misfire on that particular cylinder. If when you changed your plugs if a few of them were white and looked to be firing while the others were black (not-firing). This may be the cause of your problems, I also changed out the O2 sensor at the same time as the injector unit, because of all the crap that was blown though from the misfireing cylinders. The unit was not cheep around $400 the O2 was around $50 but Runs better now than when i bought it used, i hope to get that money back in made up gas milage. Im not sure but you might look into this on yours it made mine run great after i replaced it.
  • I have a '99 GMC Jimmy 4x4. My 4WD was not working. The light would flash but not engage. I took it to a transmission shop who changed the motor in the transfer case. Now the problem is the 4WD lights on the dash do not light and the Service 4WD light now appears. I went the dealer to have the transfer case re-programmed using the OTC3628 "tech 2." The dealer said they could not because a Diagnostic Trouble Code C0308 could not be cleared. Now the dealer says they need to do more analysis. Sounds like "big bucks" to me. Any idea what the DTC is and what else might be able to be done? Thanks
  • I have a 1999 Chevy Blazer LS 4x4 and when im driving down the road the truck shifts into 4 wheel drive by itself and when i put it back into 2wd it will wait for about a minute and go back into 4wd. this is my first 4wd vehicle and i have no clue why it is doing this.
  • Please, help. I have a 95 Blazer with composite (not sealed beam) headlights. Need to replace the low beam, but can't figure how to get to it. The high beam bulbs are easily accessible, but I have to do the low beam.
    Thanks for any help.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    GM S-Series Pick-ups and SUV's 1994-1999 Repair Guide
    1994-95 MODELS

    1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
    2. If replacing the right side bulb, remove the battery from the vehicle.
    3. If replacing the left side bulb, remove the intake air box.
    4. Remove the grille from the front of the vehicle.
    5. Remove the retaining screw from the engine side of the radiator support, then remove the headlight capsule-to-radiator support screws.
    6. Pull the composite headlight assembly forward slightly, then unplug the headlamp and side marker lamp wiring connectors.
    7. Remove the headlight assembly from the vehicle. Remove the necessary bulb(s) from the assembly.
  • Thanks. I think I'll try it this weekend, when I have a couple of hours, and I'll let you know how it goes. You know, I was looking in my Haynes manual and there are two sections about this. The one I was looking at is called Headlight-replacement, which covers sealed beam-type and composite-type, and never mentions removing the radiator grille. The second section called Composite headlight housing-removal and installation coincides pretty well with what you sent.
    P.S. Could GM have made this much harder?
  • Hi, I'm new to this forum. I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer that is making a low rumbling noise when I approach 30 mph. What do you think? Thanks
  • gregb9gregb9 Posts: 2
    I am a first responder and am trying to get headlight flashers installed in my 2000 GMC Jimmy. They are manufactured by Brooking Industries and are model BR910-EZ.
    I took the car to the GMC dealer to have them installed and there stumped. When the switched is turned on the high beams come on but do not flash. Any suggestions????
  • Sorry I can't be more help, but I went to the website, and those directions are terrible. If I were you, I would call the company. I'm an electrical engineer, and I can't begin to decipher that wiring diagram.
  • I have a 1998 GMC Jimmy SLS and I'm having a difficult time getting back into 2WD from 4WDHI or 4WDLO. I can hear the transfer case trying and the lights blink on the 2WD pushbutton, but it switches right back into 4WD. If I try long enough, it eventually switches into 2WD, at least for now. I have changed the transfer case vac switch with no apparent change. I did this as I had a simular problem a year ago and by changing this switch it fixed the problem. I've tried backing up 10 to 20 feet thinking it might be "transfer case bind", but it doens't help. I read in this forum about grime build up in a pocket inside the encoder motor, but I'm a little hesitant to tackle taking it apart without a service manual handy. Anyone have any suggestions?
  • Since I decided to purchase my first suv (2000 blazer LS 4x4) I have had a myriad of problems. My problems started with the bucked seat recliner lever breaking off in my hand to the front door hinge pin bushing wearing out to the right front wheel bearing going after 75k miles. Now my newest problem is with the fuel level gauge bouncing all over the place...It's no surprise that GM is having sales problems, in all my years i've never had the problems i've experienced with this vehicle..No wonder GM is hurting...they're just putting out crap!!
  • soze1soze1 Posts: 2
    My 95 Blazer had a new fuel pump, fuel screen and fuel filter in May of 2005. Now it won't start, and basically seems fuel is not getting to the engine. I can hear the fuel pump, in fact it seems much LOUDER than usual. What would cause the loudness, could changing the fuel filter again help? Before the comatose state, Blazie would rev very high but not accelerate well. This all seemed to occur right after the radiator fan clutch and belts were replaced. Please help. I've given up on any mechanics around here.
  • I have an 86 gmc jimmy the problem i am having is the 3amp ecm fuse keeps blowing.the fule pump dose not stop priming i have replaced the fule pump and the fule pump relay but still have the problem.while in idel does not blow.u can drive about 30 yards and its gone.i was wondering if anyone else has had or is having this problem or if anyone has any tip i can follow up on to correct this problem.
  • gregb9gregb9 Posts: 2
    I have the same problem with my 2000 Diamond Edt. Jimmy. Tell me has it died out looking for fuel while the front end was pointed down hill? Level I had a 1/4 tank, but exiting into traffic it read empty. The damn thing is the engine believed it ! Rolling down to level ground it started back up. Now I never let it get below that point. Maybe GM has something going with oil company's ? Yes mine bounces as well !
  • jpfjpf Posts: 496
    We had an 02 Sunfire with a similar problem. The problem was corrected by switching the brand of gasoline and by adding a fuel additive for the next few fill ups. I believe the additive may have been STP. Good luck.
  • spanospano Posts: 2
    1. Location of Bank 1 Sensor 1. I was told above the cat converter by a Autozone guy...thought I'd check here.
    2. Changed Oil and started to idle and my A/C compressor kicked on and off several times, dials were set to heat foot/dash setting. Quirk? Disconnected compressor so it wouldn't start. Live in Alaska and don't need A/c much, will it effect system?
  • cmsgopcmsgop Posts: 1
    When I was driving home today,I noticed a big hesitation in my rear end. Like the wheels were not in sync or something,Any Help at all would be great, It has 95,000 on it.
  • I have a 94 Blazer that had the same problem.If yours has the cmfi unit it could be the fuel pressure regulator. or
    the fuel injectors.Also make sure you got the right pump
    I recieved the wrong part from part store.IF it's a cmfi you need to have 58to62pound of fuel pressure.
    (cmfi)central multi-port fuel injectors
    I hope this helps
  • I have a 1995 Jimmy 4.3 L V6 CPI 4x4. Want to perform regular tune-up/maintenance. Need spark plug gap and firing order. Thanks for your help.
  • soze1soze1 Posts: 2
    Thanks malibubob, that helps a lot. Are the CMFI's the same as sensors? Is there anyway I can check the pressure myself? When you had the wrong pump, did you notice a problem right away? I think you have it right with the fuel pressure regulators, because sometimes Blazie briefly sounds like she's resuscitated, and then nothing. But you sound like a mechanic. Is there anything a non-mechanic can do, besides take her in to a professional? Thanks
  • 932dr932dr Posts: 1
    My 93 blazer makes a werid noise on the highway. it makes a sound that almost sounds like grinding it sounds like the noise is coming from the transfer case. it only does it when you let off the gas as soon as you get back on it it goes away. then when you come off the highway and slow down to about 20 mph or so you hear a bang and everything goes back to normal. if anyone has any idea please let me know.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Spark plug gap .035" as per underhood emission sticker.

    Firing order 1-6-5-4-3-2, distributor rotation clockwise.
  • wings7wings7 Posts: 4
    All I can say is thanks God for the trip odometer. I have the same problem.. it's accurate for the first 1/4 tank then it's anything it wants to be. Bottom line.. fuel sending unit in the tank. Yes you can replace it with the facotry orginal but it will fail again in 4 years. There is an upgraded replacement but for the $600 it cost I'd just live with looking at the trip odometer.
  • I have a '97 Blazer and I've noticed a strange noise under my automatic gear shift. It sounds like a clicking noise, sounds like something is turning but hitting something. Any Ideas?

    I also changed my trans fluid and in the process I broke a copper wire from the front of the case " there are two of these copper wrapped things" They plug in, so I assume they have to be important. I plugged it back in anyway and test drove it to see if I could tell. The blazer runs fine, but when I take off 1st gear is VERY slow getting up to speed, so now I have to treat my auto like a standard. Does anyone know what this part is called or how much it might cost to fix? I was thinking about soldering the wire back on and seeing if that would work.

    Thanks in advance for the advice!
  • spanospano Posts: 2
    When pullig up to a light my voltage would drop (New battery) so I replaced the altenator. Now my auto-starter dosn't work and my voltage dropped again this morning on the way to work at a light. Any modules that need to be replaced? No codes pop up except for the last time is was the 02 sensor. Need help, I've only owned the vehicle for three weeks and have replaced over $300 in parts already. :mad:
  • It is an ordinary occurance for the voltage to drop off when the engine settles to an idle. It should recover within a few seconds. If not, your vehicle is idling to slowly. Alternators have a certain RPM setting at which they actually come/stay online. I have an '00 Jimmy and mine does it all the time. In fact, many cars do this at idling speeds and it's not necessarily harming anything. Hope this helps.
  • rcc442rcc442 Posts: 56
    At medium speeds there is a vibration that seems to be originating at the front wheels. It is speed dependent and is maximum at about 50 MPH. ... I started wondering if I have a bad bearing.

    My 2001 Blazer Xtreme is doing something similar. At low speeds (35-40mph) you can feel a vibration, but since I usually drive faster, I wasn't concerned. Then, I looked at the tires, and the left tires are showing signs of "cupping". It's been going on for awhile, because my rear left shows it too (from when it was on the front, I presume).

    When you search for the causes of "cupping", they say it could be balance (I doubt it, since both tires affected), too light a load (doubt it since it appears to happen when tire is on front axle), shocks (still good), bearings (your hunch), "or other suspension parts". Problem is, I don't know a reputable front-end guy... I'll bet each tire place I take it to will suggest something different. But dealer prices will be so high that I might get several parts changed out at tire stores for same price as one solution at dealer!
  • rcc442rcc442 Posts: 56
    Just took it to a tire dealer; he thinks it may just be alignment, or it may be the shocks. When I buy tires, we'll check the alignment. If it is fairly close to spec's, then he suspects the shocks (still have original shocks at 108,000 miles). If the alignment is way off, though, he thinks that would be it.
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