Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair

alcan

Intake manifold gaskets are probably leaking, allowing coolant into the lifter valley then down into the pan. Keep driving it like that and you run the risk of a spun rod bearing, antifreeze doesn't make a good lubricant.

ugarph1982

I agree with alcan .... You probably have a leaking intake manifold gasket. GM makes them out of plastic and they leak after a while. My 2000 JImmy has a mild case of this. Take a flashlight and look at where the seam where the manifold is bolted on. Chances are you'll see a little coolant leaking out the sides. The rest of it is probably mixing with the oil that lubricates the camshaft, push rods, and valves which will just leak down into the pan without ever making it into the heads causing exhaust smoke. It's not exactly cheap to have done, but usually changing out the intake manifold gasket will do the trick. Hope this helps!

arow

I am looking for the bolt but am having a little trouble. There is such a small place to find it with the small space. I might be able to find it with a picture or something. :confuse:

jpf

I have an S10 pickup with the same 4.3 liter V6 engine. The intake manifold gasket was leaking. I had it replaced for just under $300 at the local GM dealer. No problems since it was fixed. Also, check the oil cooler lines. They have a tendency to leak as well. Good luck.

tommc

Yep. Our Blazer started leaking internally at 12K miles, under warranty. Selling and servicing dealer told us to take it somewhere else. Second dealer put some sealer tablets in the radiator and said it was all fixed. Apparently the warranty payment is not so good for this repair? Might try these pills first as they are working and the coolant looks fine still after two years now. No doubt I'll have to have the gaskets replaced at some point on my nickel. I can see why GM is near bankrupt after this deal.

flexy

How did you make out???????

wings7

Just ran into the same problem. Looks like big bucks for a little problem, the fuel sensor sending unit located in the tank needs to be replaced. The new sensor has been redesigned as this problem is quite common. Basically, you drop the tank and have to replace the entire fuel pump which contains the switch. Now the catch... the part cost is around $400. Not worth the investment in my opinion as long as your trip odometer works.

a69charger

my 94 jimmy just stopped running, it has the vortec v6. checked the fuelpump and spark, both are good, but how do i check to see if i'm getting fuel to the injectors? please help the truck in stuck on the side of the road waiting for a tow.

rodriscoll

Yesterday the truck started having a whining noise. When you start driving it the noise seemed to stop, but the transmission would not shift till 4500 rpms. Can anyone help me on this one. I have a 2001 4x4 Blazer with about 75,000 miles. I have had no problems till now.

tibber1

I'M BAACK! But my Blazer is gone, but not before doing a good deed for it's next owner and others with the same problem. There was a crack in the radiator-it was high enough not to leak, but enough to evaporate and suck air into the lines which is why we heard the 'gurgling' noise behind the glove box. The first estimate called for a new radiator, hoses, tank, flush and fill at $600. The next estimate was a flush of the dexcool to be replaced by conventional A/F, a new radiator, cap and tank, but no new hoses at $189. Adding A/F completely and immediately stopped the gurgling noise, but not wanting to pass on a problem, I had the replacement done and traded the old Blazer in on an '05 Escape. So far, I'm pretty happy with the Escape. Good Luck to all with Blazer gurgling noise problems!!!

eazel

I am having the exact same problem. I've heard it can be the ground but can't locate it to see. I've also heard it could possibly be the ignition switch or a short in the wiring harness. In any event, if I turn off the blazer with it in that condition and don't restart for several days, it will drain the battery. I'd really like to resolve the problem. Its been a great SUV up until this happened.

kurtis

stupid question, but I'm and accountant who has a wish to save some money on a front brake change on a 96 Jimmy. '

What size socket do I need for the caliper bolts? I obviously don't have the right one.

Little help?

sasser

Hey does anyone know how to remove the front right cap on driver side seat? I can't get to bolt to remove seat, because plastic black cap is covering the bolt, I think.

posjimmy

I am having problems keeping a fuse in my 91 Jimmy, for the tail and courtesy lights. I put a new fuse in and turned on the lights, and everytime about 30 seconds later the fuse blows. Where should I start to look for the problem? I'm sure I am going to have fun!

rcarazoz

Hi all,

I have found some cars with similar problems on the discussion board but would appreciate some new input,
I have the Service(check) Engine Soon light illumninated.

My jimmy started to lose acceleration as I was driving from Harrisburg to Pittsburgh , at around 60 MPH going up inclines it appeared not to accelerate even when floored. I eventually had to pull over going up a steep incline as the car started to physically jerk (RPMS), i think that this uncoincidentally coincided after my releasing and flooring the gas,,, "experimenting" (I'm not dumb, the jerking came after I releasd and floored the gas). After I pulled over I eventually got going by feathering the gas to slowly accelerate and stay at about 60 all the way to pittsburgh ,, when going up inclines i did not try to keep speed i routinely fell down to 45 mph, not trying to push the engine, I smelled what I thought to be like some sort of burning smell occasionally but then it would quickly dissappear.

I have read on the discussion board that catalytic converter or feul pump might be problem, I just replaced my feul pump around 2.5 months ago so i dont think it would be that.

Any other suggestions ? I would greatly appreciate it...
thanks all

p.s. Also when i was going at very slow speed: 2-5 mph and my wheel was turned extreme right or left the jimmy was reallllly straining , any suggestions for that , or relation to previous problem ?

alcan

Have the stored diagnostic trouble codes retrieved and post them. AutoZone will do it no charge.

my95ramair

where are you located? i have a 97 lt loaded 97xxx miles and blue book is like 8-9xxx! thats crazy.

rcarazoz

Hey ,

Diagnostic Code: P0421 -> Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold

Apparently the Feul Injectors for "Bank 1" are clogged, this is what I was told, I was given some cleaning fluid to put in my tank and it should clear it up , it makes sense when they explained it to me, was not getting gas in those cylinders when trying to accelerate ....

HOWEVER,
I still have the problem with the turn with the wheel turned far to the right or left, Apparently when in two wheel drive it is fine, however in 4 HI it is messed up, i did not try in 4 LO, it appears to be ok in 4 WD AUTO, but I remember the only time I ever used 4 WD AUTO it was good for an hour or so and then I remember a similar type of jerking that I am now getting with the 4 HI , AutoZone was not sure what it might be they only speculated that it might be a vaccuum leak in the actuator controlling the switch to 4wd ,,,,

Summary:
1) Acceleration Fixed, Problem was Clogged Feul Injectors

2) Lurching, even when pushing hard on gas when in 4 HI with wheels turned extreme left or right

Any idea what could be causing the trouble in the 4 HI would be greatly appreciated,

Thanks again for the help

yguelce

I recently purchased an iPod video, and was considering using the AUX connector on my 2001 Chevy S10. It has the original factory radio installed. I haven’t removed the radio yet, but was wondering if anyone aware of what kind of connection is back there to uses with the AUX?

Please help if you have worked with the factory radio, I would rather be prepare before taken the dash apart.

Thanks,

maineboy

I own a 95 blazer and am having the same stalling problems. It stalls sometimes when I have slowed down to turn a corner or to stop. I shift into neutral and it starts right up and run fine a a day or so. This has happened about 5 times in the last month and once about a year ago. I have replaced the fuel pump and had a tune up during the past year. Does anyone have any ideas?

xygla

I had the same problem with my 95 blazer. I solved changing the big cable that is inside the steering wheel, that cable connects the wheel with the dash board, it carries wires for lights, Wipers and ignition. The problem is that the cable and the connectors are weak and broke inside making an intermittent failure

cptcutter

I have a 99 Blazer 4.3L V6 that idles at just about or just under 500 RPMs. Often there seems to be a low annoying noise when idling low. If I, ever so slightly, hold the accelerator to increase the RPMs to 600 RPMs, the noise goes away. Questions: 1) Is my engine idling too low? 2) If so, how do I increase the idle speed?

Thanks!

ugarph1982

I have an '00 Jimmy that has been virtually problem free for the first 6 years, other than having to replace one of those hub assemblies. However, now I've noticed that both of the oil cooler lines (the feed and return) are leaking at the joint just beneath the radiator where the hoses change from metal line to some type of composite material. I was planning to replace these myself. Has anyone replaced these before? Are they expensive? Is it a pain? Thanks for your help!

maineboy

Thanks, On your stalling problem was it happening when you turned the steering wheel or just slowing down? On mine it just when I slow down to turn or come to a stop, so speed has something to do with it.

dom920

I live on a college campus in Appleton, Wisconsin and I am looking for ways to keep my car starting in the winter. Last winter, I parked in a local parking ramp and when temperatures got too cold, my car simply refused to start. When it did, it required me to press down on the accelerator for while, and it sounded really rough. This year, a local couple is renting out their garage to college students. However, it is unheated. I've heard about engine heater blocks, but I also don't know anything about cars. Are these expensive? And which would be the best one to use, considering that the temps get really cold here and my car is really old? I've also heard horror stories of problems that arise with getting these installed. How long can you keep it plugged in? I live about 3 blocks away from the garage and normally only drive my car once a week (although when it gets cold, I try to start my car everyday, if it lets me), and I don't know how I would synchronize turning the heater on and off. I've done a bit of online research, but I'm reading lots of conflicting things, and apparently there are a variety of types of heaters you can choose from. I am totally clueless. Can someone help me out?

tonnyx

I had AutoZone pull this code for me (I am disgruntled at them, btw, because they wouldn't let me clear the code). They didn't really tell me much about what the message meant; all the guy said was, "You gotta take it in to the shop." Great.

Has anybody had to deal with this one before? What does it mean? What I need to do about it? How badly does it need to be fixed?

I love this forum - almost all the other weird problems I've had to deal with on this car have already been addressed here - e.g., the constant turn signal clicking, ridiculous transmission overflow tube, etc.

sockpuppet1969

I don't know what it means but here you go...

P1810 TFP Valve Position Switch Circuit (GM)

chapara

I am having the same problem w/the 4WD not working on my '97 jimmy and need to get it into the shop ASAP as the snow will fly soon. Just wondering, how expensive did it cost to repair? Thanks.

gooch13

I have an 87 chevy s-blazer... continuous low coolant... and it stalled twice yesterday when I was slowing down... it smokes a thick white smoke when I change gears... and I have a major rattle when accelerating... PLEASE tell me it could be something BESIDES a cracked head... preferable something LESS invasive to my wallet.

hstachowski

Just curious if you ever found a solution to this problem. My 98 Blazer is having this issue;
Mine started after I had to chargw the battery up when it went dead, I have heat ever since and I have the same symptoms.

Thanks
Henry

alcan

Usually caused by a worn bore in the valve body. Any competent transmission shop can install this kit to fix it:

http://www.transmissionspecialty.com/parts/parts/77754-Combo.htm

alcan

An engine block is the big cast iron thing with parts bolted onto it under the hood that makes the car go. An engine block heater keeps it warm in the winter. Any decent garage should be able to install one. The type which goes into a core plug hole in the side of the block is best. Buy a timer, set it for 3 hours, and you should be good to go.

alcan

More likely leaking intake manifold gaskets allowing coolant into the combustion chambers. To eliminate a cracked head or blown head gasket, test kits are available at most auto supply houses to check for the presence of hydrocarbons in the radiator.

povertybay

I just happened to see your message. Hopefully you've got it fixed by now, but I'll put in my comments for others and just in case they may help you. My 2000 had an intermittant stalling problem. It was actually a re-starting problem after it had been shut off very briefly. The tell-tale sign that it was going to do it was when the security light stayed on after I'd put the key in the ignition. It turned out to be a secondary problem to excessive engine temp. Apparently after sitting for a couple of minutes, before it had a chance to cool down, a fail safe in the security system prevented it from being started. I was also working the temperature problem and when I got it solved, the stalling problem dissappeared.

povertybay

I wonder if that is the throttle position sensor - for downshifting when you accelerate.

ejday

Anyone have a solution to flasher/blinker sounds that are coming from the glove compartment area of a 1908 Blazer? Sounds are intermittent, do not affect the turn light signals, isn't fuse related....any thoughts?

brazkid

I own a 95 Chevy Blazer and have had numerous problems. I've changed the alternator, fuel pump(twice), starter, and the send unit in the past year and a half. My most recent problem has shut the car down completely and it won't start at all. I've taken it to a mechanic who said it was an electrical problem which is somehow preventing power to the fuel pump, but he can't figure out what or where it is. Has anyone with a blazer encountered this problem, or know of any solutions?

kribby

I am new to this site. I was just getting ready to ask the very same question as my 98 Blazer started doing the same thing about a week ago. I don't have a solution but I do know that when I step on the brake pedal, the noise stops. I checked and it has no affect on the signal parking or brake lights. It just makes an annoying noise. (Right directly in front of my, oh so patient wife, as luck would have it.)

tonnyx

Ha. I have this same issue too, in my '98 Jimmy, but haven't taken the time to deal with it yet. According to a couple other posts (see the thread starting with msg #1322), the problem is the multifunction switch in the turn signal arm. I also read somewhere that the problem has to do with the fact that the turn signal, every time it's used, shaves a little piece off that contact, and so eventually the little shavings start making contact even when you're not using the turn signal. I dunno. Let us know what you find out!

sockpuppet1969

Search this discussion for the term "combination switch" and you will get your answer. This is obviously a VERY common problem. Good luck!

bob0008943

1999 jimmy has 78,000 miles. i have had it for two years. only problem is very little heat from heater. coolent is very clean and i just replaced thermostat. no change. anyone got an idea.

fatharley

hi i have a 99blazer with 93,000 miles my oil lines started leaking at 30.000 dealer said keep checking to see if gm will have a recall the lines are 300.dallars

4hourmechanic

Just a hint on Autozone - go to a parts dealer like Napa to get any parts. I used to work for Autozone years ago, I knew nothing about cars, but sure enough, like most Autozoners, I was giving advice left and right. Lord help those who listened to whatever I said. Heh. To get trouble codes, at least for a 93 blazer, you just put a wire or paperclip between the top right two pins in the code box, and it will tell you the codes. A haynes manual will hook you up with the code decipher.

wings7

If you do some research you will find that the root cause of this problem is the OEM recommended coolant DEX-COOL. It claims to be good for 5 years or 100,000 miles but actually turns to a red/brown sludge which is very acidic and attackes the water pump, heater core and of course the plastic gaskets on the intake manifold. So comon that there is a class action lawsuit against GM for this product. Do some research, go to Google and type in DEX-Cool.. otherwise know as DEATH COOL

markaz4

I had the same problem. Would not start, then suddenly would. Drove me nuts!

It turned out to be the ignition switch. Thank God I got a good mechanic that saw it before, the dealership could not fix it.

Mark

steve96

I have replaced those lines four times on my 96 Blazer. (150,000 kilometres) Apparently the last set has some new type of fitting that does not leak. I believe they were more than $200(Canadian) to replace by the dealer. The first two sets failed under warranty. This problem originally led to loss of coolant and many subsequent DEX COOL problems. Get'em fixed.

rccrazybill

I have a beautiful 1997 Gmc Jimmy which i have had for 7 years .The problem is it does not start at all. For the past few weeks as it was getting colder here it was taking longer and longer to turn over , but now it cranks and cranks until the battery goes dead. I put a new fuel pump in about a year ago and you can hear it pushing fuel while it cranks. I have it right now at a mechanic in town who after 5 hours still cannot get it to start??? he put a new cap / rotor ( they were carbon fouled so i guess it needed them ) and told me it's getting spark but it still will not start. The problem was getting worse with the cold weather but especially if i drove it in the rain. The last time it started i had to drive home in bad rain and even after being in the garage for a few days it will not start. The sad part is even with the hard starting for the past few weeks , once it started up it runs like new. Anyone who has any ideas I would appreciate it more then you could know. I will relay any answers to my Mechanic
RcCrazyBill~ :sick:

alcan

Check fuel pressure.

rccrazybill

Done that , Pressure is good , spark is strong . cranks and cranks and cranks but will not fire :sick:

maineboy

How hard is it to replace the motor? My wiper sometimes works but most of the time you hear just a clicking / grinding noise, like the motor rotors but gears are not meshing.