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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • My 2000 Blazer (Trailblazer trim) 40k miles is experiencing a weak cranking at start up. It has not failed to start the engine yet, but it hesitates before the engine ignites. Also the rear hutch unlocks as the engine starts. I thought the electric current used at the rear hutch was reducing the voltage available to ignite the engine. My dealer has a different opinion and says that "the problems are most likely from the weak battery as the weak battery does all the weird things". I am not sure if the weak battery falsely unlocks the rear hutch, and I still believe that the troubles are related to the faulty wiring or circuit board. Any opinions?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Use a set of jumper cables to connect to a known good battery and try starting it.
  • Alcan,

    Thank you for a quick response. I had to jump start the truck twice a few months ago, and the battery was ok until last week. The voltage is still normal at the middle of the meter (12V). The cranking and hesitation at the turn of the key began last week and the rear hutch unlocks as the engine starts.

    Is the dealer's opinion correct that the weak battery causes other electronic control malfunctionings?

    I still feel from other threads on this board that there might be a short in circuit boards or wiring.
  • Correction:

    The voltage is still normal at the middle of the meter (14V).

    instead of (12V).
  • You are stating 12V, then 14V, You must be referring to your CHARGING VOLTAGE while the engine is running. You need to put a voltmeter across the battery terminal and read what the voltage falls to while you are cranking the engine. It should not go below 9.5V. If it does, it is weak, or not charged enough, or your starter is drawing too heavy of a load. If you don't have a meter, turn on your dome light and watch it as you crank the engine, if it gets real dim, voltage is dropping too low. Charge up the battery, then take the battery to a good auto parts store and have it tested.
    Good Luck,
  • How do you flush the heater core? I am having the same problem.
  • I have a '96 Jimmy, the AC works fine but the heater will not warm up. What could be the problem. Any easy fix? I know that I have to flush out the rad cos it has jelled up. Could this be affecting the heater? What is the best way to flush out the rad and heater core without going to a shop? I will appreciate your advice.
  • Find both hoses that go to the heater core, they go to the fire wall next to the A/C (passenger side). Take the hoses loose and use a water hose with no metal end, to run water through the heater core. Push the hose on one side and then the other, so that you force water to flow both directions through the heater core. If water flows through, it's ok, If water does not flow though, it is clogged and it will need to be replaced.
    Good Luck,
  • Connect the water hose to one of the heater hoses that goes back into the engine, Remove the radiator cap, slowly turn water hose a little bit and water should come out the radiator filler. Start engine, let it idle, turn up the flow on water hose, do that until water runs out clear. If your system was real dirty or rusty, you may have to use a radiator cleaner chemical before you flush the cooling system with water. You can use some cleaner available at auto parts stores, or you can try pouring in a whole bottle of CLR and let the engine idle with the CLR in it. Be SURE to flush the system out with water after you use any chemical.
    Good Luck,
  • Thank you for your advice, I will try and clean the system this weekend. Thanks a lot
  • Thank you for your advice. Finally my battery died last Friday and I had to buy a new ACDelco battery at the local Chevy dealer. Since then there is no hutch malfunctioning, and the engine starts with no hesitation with a turn of key. The new battery comes with a 5-year warranty, and it gives me some peace of mind. (I had to pay $100 plus $45 labor for this repair.)
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Whoa, 45 bucks labor to put a battery in a blazer? Should have gone to Sears, or Autozone. Get a 6 year battery installed for $70 and know it's a fresh battery that hasn't sat in the storeroom for 6 months. Oh well. Really odd that the hatch did this on low voltage. Have to remember this one.
  • My 1997 Jimmy is difficult to shift out of PARK (automatic transmission). Pumping the brake peddle a couple of times and pushing it down hard seems to release the shifter most of the time. It is not parked on a hill and has no problems while driving (shifts normally). It seems to be somewhat worse first thing in the morning. Was wondering if the cold could be a factor and what the problem could be.
  • bam36bam36 Posts: 1
    hello, i have a 97 blazer that is having the same problems, stalling and such. i would love to trade it in but dealers wont give me squat as usual, i am going to sell it myself but will not without ignition problem being fixed. can you tell me how much it cost to get the switch changed out. thanks in advance
  • From the symptoms you describe, the most likely problem is a faulty Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Solenoid. When the brake pedal is depressed, the shift lock solenoid contacts open, allowing the movement of the gear shift selector. Cold weather is not a factor. However, the fact that pumping your brake pedal permits movement from the Park position points to a weak shift lock solenoid.
  • kpannkpann Posts: 13
    Can anyone tell me where the wiper pulse control module is located. I have the part on the way and would like to replace it myself.
  • The Wiper Motor Module is part of the wiper motor unit that is attached to the firewall. To replace it, first, disconnect the wiper motor electrical connector (5-Way F Metri-Pack). Next, remove the three screws holding the cover on the wiper motor. Once the cover is removed, lift up on the terminal connector (the terminal and module are a unit). This will separate the module from the motor. Reverse the process for installation. Be careful tightening the cover screws. The service manual calls for only 23 inch pounds of torque. Excessive torque can easily damage the plastic cover.
  • I was inspired by your post to finally fix my own wipers. I also have a '98 blazer. The mechanic was asking $300 for the repair. I bought the part from the dealer for $55 and did the repair myself in less than 15 minutes! The only thing I did not do was use sealant around the cover when I put it back on. They work perfectly now - thanks!
  • I have a few minor troubles on my 2000 Blazer Trailblazer trim:


    After rain when I move the car I hear a sound of water moving in the ceiling, like a small amount of water gushing in a narrow channel. Apparently moonroof seam let water in and water stays in the ceiling. Dealer blew clean the drainage but does not work.


    Also when I start the car in the rear gear and when the car rolled backward about 5 feet I hear a popping sound from below the body around the right front axle.


    Does anyone have the similar problems? Any cure?
  • I have a problem with my 2000 Jimmy 4 wheel drive. When I try to select anything but 2 wheel drive, the lights flash and the service 4 wheel drive light comes on. Originally thought this was the vacuum valve located on the top of the firewall. Replacing it did not fix. Measured voltage at connector to valve and got 0V when engine off, 7.5V when engine one and in 2 WD drive, 12V when 4WD switch is on. I thought this indicated bad connection to one of the wires. Moved the wires around on the connector block under the dash, this seemed to fix it for about a week. Now the same problem is back.


    Does anyone know how I can permanently fix this? Does this wire terminate into a computer connector? Which wire is it exactly, there are several black wires? How can I take it apart so I can check to see if it is a problem with the connector or perhaps a solder joint problem?
  • My 2001 Blazer 4x4 has developed a noise in the steering. Only when I turn the steering wheel to the right I can hear kind of a grinding noise. It's hard to explain and it's not that loud, but when I turn the wheel to the left, everything is normal. I'm not sure if it has always made this noise and I have just now noticed it or if something might be going wrong with the power steering pump. I've just recently replaced the idler and pitman arms as well as the lower ball joints. Any ideas or common problems out there?
  • I just replaced the battery in my 98 Blazer, and now when I start the truck, the interior lights flash off and on for awhile. I know it has something to do with the security system, but does anyone know how to reset it?
  • njapfnjapf Posts: 1
    In my Jimmy the automatic button for rear glass hatch will work, I can hear it but it doesn't release the catch so it will not open. I need to open it to get to the moving parts (lock parts). Has any one got a solution for me
  • I'm wanting to replace the tail lights on my 2001 Blazer with APC Euro Tails. I have looked the tail lights over and believe I can remove the old ones myself, but knowing how mechanically declined I am, I'm a little hesitant to try this myself. Can anyone give me an idea about what's involved here? It looks simple, but that's where I usually foul up.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 389661

    2001 Chevrolet/Geo Blazer - 2WD


    Tail Lamp Replacement (Utility)


    Removal Procedure


    Open the endgate or liftgate.

    Remove the screws that retain the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.

    Rotate the bulb sockets 1/4 turn counter-clockwise in order to remove the bulb sockets from the tail lamp assembly.


    Installation Procedure


    Install the bulb sockets to the tail lamp assembly by rotating the sockets 1/4 turn clockwise.

    Install the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.

    Install the screws that retain the tail lamp assembly to the vehicle.

    Tighten the screws to 1.9 N·m (17 lb in).
  • cpocpo Posts: 23
    How funny post # 1000 represents my last one for my Jimmy. He's given me a lot of unfortunate reasons to write you all here; but, alas - no more. I traded it for a used Camry last week and just tonight I read over 70 favorable posts in the Camry section of this forum and now am so relieved to be done with it! I lost a lot of cash driving the Jimmy. I could not let the madness continue, most recently having to spend $600 on a new fuel pump. Instead I kept my money and bought the Toyota. I don't understand why this generation of Blazer/Jimmy are clearly so poorly built. Well, whatever. I don't care. I love this Camry so far. I find great comfort, knowing that so many find Camrys a fine, high quality automobile so worthy of all its accolades. Good luck to those of you hanging on to your utes. Oh, and happy New Year!!
  • kpannkpann Posts: 13
    Have a '98 Blazer 2WD and going to give to my son and he wants to put big tires on it, I saw a post that someone put 30/9.5/15 T/A's. Wondering if anyone else has gone with big tires, concerned about front tires hitting the fender wells when turning sharp. He also wants to add a 2" body lift. Any suggestions would be helpful.
  • squ1adsqu1ad Posts: 1
    I have read several posts on 97-2000 blazers with leaking oil lines. Does anyone kow if there is any TSB's or recalls on this product. Or what dealerships are doing for this problem. I have a 2000 blazer and I noticed a leak, several friends of mine have had similar problems and after reading this I see this is not uncommon.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    I picked up one of the prestone backflush kits. You have to cut one of the heater core lines and install the adapter with clamps. Then you hook a hose up to that and run the water through it. I let it go for a half hour. It's been almost 2 years now and I've had no trouble.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    I bought my 98 blazer used two years ago. It had 65k miles on it. It was a lease buyback so it was meticulously maintained. However the first year I had a number of issues I had to deal with. First off the a/c cut out after only 4 months. I had the drier and low pressure switch replaced and it was fine. Then six months later the compressor died. That is getting fixed next month. The left side abs sensor gave out $60 from dealer only. I have the idler arm going bad that's going to be fixed next month also. But I had the intermittent wiper motor problem. I fixed it myself by taking the module out and resoldering the connector solder joints. Also keep an eye out for any burnt circuits. I had a burnt circuit an inch along one edge. I had to use a piece of stripped phone wire to jump the circuit to the next solder joint. Did that 3 months after Igot the truck and it's worked flawlessly since. I keep a hawks eye on my oil coolant lines and thankfully they seem fine. I was getting 23 mpg until a few months back when I replaced the fuel filter. I now get 21 mpg but I have more power. But still from what I hear that is excellent gas milage. Of course mine is regular 2wd not 4x4. But I do see that problem with the driver side front door hinge. I'm thinking of using some vacuum line connectors to make that drain tube reach down past the hinge. I can see I'm going to need to replace those bushings soon. And half the lights in my cd player are dead. It works fine so I leave it but it is annoying at night not seeing 2 and 5 and a couple others. I did think it was going bad but found out my back right speaker died so I just replaced that, no probs now.


    I have also switched my truck over from the dex-crap to green prestone. Don't let anyone fool you into saying you couldn't/can't. I'm going on a year and 7 months with no problems. You just have to make sure you completely flush it. I had a good amount of that "mud" come out when I did mine. I also found that my water pump was bad when I did it but that was an easy fix.easiest water pump I've ever replaced on a vehicle. Granted I feel like I got one of the shining stars but I swear by my Blazer. I just can't wait to trade in my old car for a newer grand am so I can give it to the wife and get my truck back.
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