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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 1995 4wd blazer and it has 216,000 miles. And I love it. It has no power when you accelerate. If you barely push the gas, it will slowly pick up speed but if you press it hard or to the floor it acts like it tries to change gears and accelerate. It just don't. And the service engine light comes on for a while then it will just go off. We had the codes checked and they said it was an O2 sensor. So we put one on it and that did not fix it. I was told it could be the spark plugs. The ones in it is Bosch and they look new. But I was also told they were junk even when they were new. I don't want to go if you are on the slightest incline. Does anyone know what could be wrong with it? I need help.
  • This tranmission was great until 100k mi. Had it rebuilt for friggin 1600 dollars, and still having problems. Right around 45-55 mph it keeps switching between two gears. Also sounds like the heating fan is on when nothing is on. Pisses me off. Anyone heard of any of these problems?
  • you may have only recently noticed this issue, but I believe that your vehicle has an anti-lockout feature which will not allow you to lock your truck with the key in the ignition,. In other words, you can't lock your keys inside. The windows and radio will work after turning the vehicle up so you can roll up the windows if you forget to before turning it off, or to listen to the radio to, lets just say, wait for you to get your things together and ready to get out of the vehicle(just another luxury you didn't know you had)
  • you are absolutly right, there are usually two solder joints that break or form "islands" resoldering is the best fix
  • have your idler arm checked for excess wear, and while there have them check the pittman arm too!
  • I really can't speak for resale value, but in a lot of cases, that engine in your honda/Isuzu was most likely a GM product. I have a 1994 Jimmy 4WD and it has 220,000 miles. Your best bet is find a mechanic you trust, and do you routine maintainace
  • rob58rob58 Posts: 1

    I have a 99 Blazer LT 2 door that has the same gas gauge problem as everyone else seems to be having.

    In addition, recently the signal light relay, which is located somewhere behind the glove box, continues flashing almost all the time. The signal lights work as they should, the four way flashers work as they should, but the signal relay continues to flash even though no lights are operating when it is in the middle (off) position. It stops when you hit the brakes, but starts again when the brakes (and brake lights) come go off. The relay does not run all the time, but it is getting to be almost constant.

    The ticking noise of the relay is starting to drive me nuts. Does anyone have any idea what may be the problem?

  • I had the same problem with an older chevy wagon, and it drove me nuts, until an older mechanic heard my complaints and told me to check the catalytic converter, I had it changed and it drove like new. I still go to this older mechanic for advice, if he gives me an answer "I get it done", and if he doesn't know he will say so, real rare for a mechanic. I've been told that a clogged converter has a smell like rotten eggs, and can be detected by standing next to the side it is on,while it is running, but the smell test didn't work for mine.
  • I would like to know what ever happen to your problem? I've been told the computer will learn itself, I replaced my battery 2 times and was having problems,just wondering if your problem went away on its own,or if you had to reprogram computer with VIN#?
  • yevyyevy Posts: 2
    I have a very similar problem, except that my gauge always shows on the full side. I've learned to monitor my trip odometer and when i get to about 300 miles ater a fill-up sometimes the needle will jump to the empty side and the low fuel light will come on. Then it will jump back to full.

    Let me know if you get any replys about this problem.
  • atlasanatlasan Posts: 3
    You'd swear the battery is rattling. No, battery is secure. What makes that God-awful rattle/clunking noise there on even slightly rough road?
  • Hey Rob58...I know exactly what you mean! That ticking noise makes me want to pull my hair out! I do not know what could be causing it...I took it to a mechanic & he checked the fuses in or behind the glove compartment & they were all good...also I hear a sizzling sound coming from the glove compartment too. If you find anything out, please let me know...thanks.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If it has torsion bar front suspension look for a broken rear torsion bar mount.
  • 97blazer97blazer Posts: 3
    Your brake booster is bad. I am going through the same ordeal now.
  • 97blazer97blazer Posts: 3
    I am attempting to replace the brake booster in my 97 Blazer. The booster is ready to come out, however there is a small clip that holds the booster piston to the brake pedal assembly and I am having the hardest time getting that clip to come off. What do I do....PLEASE HELP!!!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
  • riled_upriled_up Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Jimmy with 126K on it and I had the same problem after getting my CPI module replaced. You need a new catalytic converter. Yours is clogged and its screwing up the computer that controls the gas and the shifting. I got a new one at meineke for about $300 and the car has a new life.
  • jaymoorejaymoore Posts: 1
    Ok. Thanks for any help you can give.
    I have an 89 Jimmy s-15 4x4 (the small one) with the 4.3
    Well, it's been acting up for the past few months. Since we moved it from Colorado to Oregon. Last week it started to make a knocking noise and it stalled as I'd slow down to stop.
    I had just changed the oil and oil filter a couple of weeks before (I had waited to do that for longer then I should have) and when I started it up in the mornings there was a fair amount of white smoke from the exhaust pipe. The milage had been about 15 milespergallon and now has been more like 10 or 11. It has had a slow oil leak for a while but I've always kept it topped off (it leaks from a hose near the oil filter which was moved up near the hood) and I haven't seen any coolent leaked onto the ground but I've had to add coolant a bunch of times in the past two months.
    It also had one of those digital displays and only the speedometer and odometer readings work. So I don't know if it's been over heating. Last year I replaced the muffler and the catalitic converter but now it seems like it's getting hot under the floor in the back. Also the air filters haven't been lasting very long. They've gotten dirty real fast and the last one looked a bit warped. The week before the knocking noise started I needed to use starter fluid to get it going a dozen times.

    I stopped driving it because my wife's uncle says it sounds like a rod. I guess that means something. He say's it needs another engine. But hell, i's only got about 60,000 on the rebuilt engine.

    So I wanted to know if those sounds that are like a messed up rod (the knocking) along with the other things I describe could be something else.

    I love that damn truck. It was the first vehicle I ever bought (5 years ago) and It's Family to me. Hell, if it is the engine that needs replacing then what if I could pull and rebuild it myself.
    I've never done it before but like my first girlfriend told me, everyone has a first time. Are there books on taking your old beat up truck and making it like it was when it was new?

    Thanks again and any help would be greatly welcomed.
    Jay Moore
  • I have a 95 S10 Blazer.Just rebuilt the motor and things were great. then the fuel pump went, replaced that. The spider went, replaced that. Next it was the coil and the ICM. The car will start up when its cold run for about 5min. and stop. Cant get it to start untill cold. Some one said it may be the ECM, but why would it start at all then? This is driving me nuts and broke.
    Anyone got any ideas?
    Mike Edwards
  • atlasanatlasan Posts: 3
    you have screws loose
  • 1989 blazer, 6 cyl, automatic. It sat all winter and had to jump it to get it going. The headlights and everythings worked, just not enough juice to rotate engine. Jumped it and got it started. Let it run for 10 minutes or so and then went to drive it down the road. When i hit the headlights on, engine died. Now I have limited electrical and engine will not start. Put new battery in it and same thing. Wipers, instrument panel, directionals work but little else. No headlights, no radio, nothing. I am lost when it comes to electrical things. I checked the fuse panel and nothing was blown. Where should I start checking? Solenoid blown? Circuit breaker? fuseable link?
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    It is unwise to include your email address in a public posting - the spammers love it.

    tidester, host
  • I just purchased a 95' Chevy Blazer from e-bay in October and it recently started to stall. I had a diagnostic test done and well, let me make a long story short. Thus far I've replaced the catylitic converter, 2 oxygen sensors, fuel pump, sending unit, and relay, and something that has to do with the fuel pressure(?) and low and behold the damn thing still stalls. It'll stall a few times then not want to start back up for a while. I'm such a girl and I'm a little car illiterate and not to mention this car is a money pit, So could someone, anyone, please help me or give me advice. And yes, it has gas it in, lol. Thanks so much.
  • tawnyctawnyc Posts: 1
    Hi! I have a 1997 jimmy and have had it since 1999 so I am very familiar with it. Recently it has started doing something weird with the headlights when they are turned on. They flash on and off, and inside the vehicle there is a clicking noise and the little green headlight icon on the dashboard flashes on and off. Has anyone heard of/had this problem?? I'm so hoping it's not an electrical issue and something much simpler like a fuse! Any suggestions would be much appreciated! Thanks
  • dont know which engine you have. I have 94 blazer with 4.3 W engine. If your not sure which you have check 8th digit on vin code. the W motor has the fuel line entering the intake from the back of the block. at that point it changes to a plastic fuel line to the "spider" inside engine. I had similar problem, mine would basically flood out when it warmed up. let it sit for awhile and it would run good again for awhile. That plastic fuel line has tendency to crack, which dumps raw fuel into intake and "overloads" engine with fuel, thus making it run like CRAP. hope this helps
  • My GMC jimmy is making a similar noise. It seems to be coming from the right front, just under the dash. Been to 3 mechanics, all can hear it but
    no one can find/fix it. One mechanic went so far as to suggest I had some play in my passenger right door, so since he yanked on it it will not stop making a popping sound going over every bump. Any suggestions.
  • I also have a 2001 GMC Jimmy that I bought "GM Certified" in December of 2003. From the beginning the gas mileage has been a disappointment. I was getting about 175 miles out of a full tank if I let it get close to an eighth of a tank before I fill up again. I haven’t put it in the shop yet to have the mileage problem checked. I’ve done some things myself to try and squeeze out more mileage. 1) I put a high performance air filter on it (K&N Air filter) to improve the airflow; it fits the factory air filter box. 2) I switched to using 100% synthetic oil (Mobil 1), to lessen the friction and extend the life of the engine. 3) Make sure the air pressure in the tires is correct. 4) Make sure the alignment is good.
    After all that, I’ve only increased the gas mileage to 215. I’m going to put it in the shop (Goodyear) and see if they can identify the problem. I just hope it wont cost me an arm and a leg. If someone else has replied to your post with a true fix for the problem, please let me know what it is. Thanks.
  • drdddrdd Posts: 2
    check the bolt that attaches the hood to the car ...
  • drdddrdd Posts: 2
    check the bolt that attaches the hood to the body ...
  • If you figure it out please let me know. I have a 2001 s-10 blazer. i bought it new from the dealer with 27 miles on in. it now has 64,00. i have a 2 body lift and 31x 10 tires. in the last few month my gas milegage has gone from good to super bad...i now get about 9.5 miles to the gallon. i have done a complete tune up. added fuel injection cleaner and had an induction cleaning done. nothing helps!! (yes i have checked to make sure i do not have a leak in my fuel tank!) also, i just put in a new water pump and thermostat(195 degree) and ever since, my heat will not get hot unless i am driving, it can sit in my driveway warming up for 20 min and my windsheild is still half frozen when i go to leave!! HELP!!!!!
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