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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks for the info about the steering. We have been informed by our GM Goodwrech dealer that the oil cooler lines ARE in fact, leaking. I always check the oil for her, so I'm not too worried about anything happening to the engine. BTW, how much is it to replace those cooler lines? Was there ever a recall for them? When my grandma purchased her 2001 (which turned out to be a lemon that GM bought back - she ended up buying a 2002 after that) they replaced her oil cooler lines with aluminum lines, instead of rubber.

    Anyway, thanks again for the info and more will be greatly appreciated.

    P.S. Any estimate on the power steering pump if it needs to be replaced.

  • My oil cooler lines were replaced under warranty. Dealer billed part for $31.25 & 1-1/2 hrs labor> total= $138.67 to warrantor. This was for a '97 S-10 Blazer. I wouldn't let this go. If it blows out the engine will blow too in about one block if you can't figure it out & get the ignition turned off fast enuf. No recall that I'm aware of. As for the power steering pump cost I have no idea, but make sure its really the problem b4 you spend the $. It could be someone else.
  • I rented a Brand New Blazer at Avis this week. When I took off the tailgate ajar light was on. Hmmmm. I stopped and shut it. It turns out that ever time I put the car in park AND use the remote key to unlock doors, the tailgate opens!!! What a pain in the _______!

    The car drove like a piece of junk YUGO. What waste. I was thinking of buying a Suburban but noway now!!!!!!!!!!!! If they cannot get a model right after 10+ years of production, how can they get anything right!
  • bigaldsbigalds Posts: 47
    Has anyone had problems with the aluminum rear brake caliper pistons getting stuck? I just bought this Blazer a month ago, and have a multitude of problems already, makes me almost want to go back to my Explorer! I never had a vehicle with Aluminum calipers before. It seems that the heat warped my right rear one, as the piston was severely stuck, finally got it out, was so tight would not go back in until I slammed it in by putting a sledge hammer to it. Needless to say, I'm turning this one in as a core for a rebuilt unit, kinda costly and none of the local jobbers has one in stock, gotta order it and wait 5 days.
  • 95 jimmy, went through the whole egr/cpi thing last year so i know the symptoms and i am having a different problem. twice over the last week my 95 jimmy started idling rough, like a missing plug, not the stalling/surging/stalling i got with the egr problem.

    pulled the egr any way and looked/worked fine. at the same time i checked the plug wires and the throttle butterfly (not sure of the actual term) didn't seem to find anything wrong, started running fine. never got a check engine light either, then today, five days later on my way to work after driving for 25 minutes it started idling rough again, like a miss.

    would an idle air control valve cause this? what about a stuck pcv valve? kind of confused due to the lack of warning light? when i had the cpi problem i also replaced the plugs/wires/ cap/rotor, so those should be o.k. never had luck throwing things into cars, would prefer to be smart about it. if i could get it consistent i could have it put on a test machine, but anything anyone could recommend would be greatly appreciated.
  • If your problem was a stuck EGR Valve, then there definitely would have been an engine malfunction indicator lamp on the cluster.

  • evolkevolk Posts: 9
    Our fuel guage needle on our 2000 Blazer bounces around wildly, and goes almost to empty when I am at a stop and idling, then it bounces / soars back up when I accelerate. Otherwise, it almost never goes below 1/3 full.

    What is the problem and can I fix it or how much will I pay the dealer (ballpark)?
  • evolkevolk Posts: 9
    My wife has a penchant for just setting the 4wd on "Auto 4wd" on our 2000 Blazer and then forgetting it. I took her to task for this and she knows better now.

    However, whenever we've got it on Auto 4wd it soon flashes the "Service 4wd" light comes on. Then, after switching back to 2 wheel hi, and shutting the car off and restarting it, the light doesn't appear again. However, if we switch to 4wd Hi ourselves, then the light does not come on.

    What does this light mean.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Think there is a gadget on the tank that dampens the fuel gauge to stop this, lots of problems with this module. Might be best to talk to a dealer, not an expensive part but not sure of the labor cost, might have to live with it.
  • rzep3rzep3 Posts: 7
    Anyone knows how to program remote for 99 Blazer ?

  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Document ID# 389789
    1999 Chevrolet/Geo Blazer - 2WD

    Transmitter Programming

    Different keyless entry systems are used on General Motors vehicles. The parts are not interchangeable even though the parts may appear to be similar. Observe the back of the transmitter in order to properly identify the system. On 1999 S/T pickups and utilities, use a transmitter identified with GM/UTA preceding the part number.

    With the driver door closed, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel.
    Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
    Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
    Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner in order to indicate that the receiver is in the programming mode:
    Locking the doors
    Unlocking the doors

    All extra transmitters must be programmed at this time. When a new transmitter is programmed, it will deactivate the old transmitters.

    Hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter until the remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner:
    Locking the doors.
    Unlocking the doors.
    Repeat step 7 for each additional transmitter.
    Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.
    In order to reprogram the remote control door lock transmitter with a scan tool, refer to Scan Tool instructions.
    Memory Seat Recall Programming
    Adjust the driver seat to the desired position.
    Press the switch labeled SET. A chime confirmation will be heard.
    Press the desired position switch labeled 1 or 2. Within 5 seconds from pressing the SET switch, a chime confirmation will be heard.
    Press the UNLOCK button on the desired transmitter (key fob) within 5 seconds from pressing the SET switch. A chime confirmation will be heard.
    The transmitter (key fob) is now programmed with the desired position switch. Pressing the transmitter UNLOCK button will cause a recall request to be initiated and the seat will adjust to position 1 or 2.
    The stored memory positions may be changed without having to reprogram the transmitter.
    The transmitter feature is available in all ignition positions.

    Memory Seat Recall Unprogramming
    Press the switch labeled SET. A chime confirmation will be heard.
    Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter (key fob) within 5 seconds from pressing the SET switch.
    Do not press any memory switch or power adjustment for 5 seconds. Pressing a switch will cancel the unprogramming event and the transmitter will remain programmed.
    The transmitter (key fob) is now unprogrammed and pressing the UNLOCK button will not effect memory seat operation.
    No chime confirmation will be heard when the UNLOCK button is pressed if the transmitter is unprogrammed.
  • rzep3rzep3 Posts: 7
    I'll try it this coming weekend.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You're welcome. Should work.
  • rzepa1rzepa1 Posts: 55

    Hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter until the remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner:
    Locking the doors.
    Unlocking the doors.
    Repeat step 7 for each additional transmitter

    Do you think this mean to hold both buttons at the same time ? I tried seperately and it did not work.

    Up to that point all went as expected. I heard the door lock receiver lock and unlock the door but this was it.

    I know that the remote battery is good. Another option is that the remote I bought on Ebay ($10) is crap.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Yep, hold both buttons down.
  • brophbroph Posts: 85
    This happened to me this morning. Tried to start my 99 blazer & it wouldn't start on the first turn of the key, had to give it a little gas for it to start. It idled fine but when I accelerated, it spit & sputtered. I put gas in 2 days ago & it ran fine yesterday. It finally quit 5 blocks from my house & couldn't get it re-started. I put 2 containers of dry gas in & a jump start to get it started to get it to my home, I had to let the idle bring me in. Thank god I didn't have to go up any big hills or I would've been screwed. I live in upstate NY & the temp was 22 degrees, it started without a problem in colder temps. I could hear the fuel pump kick on/off with the key so I'm thinking bad gas, even though this gas station is one of the reputable ones. Does anyone have any ideas as to how long it would take to clear up water in the tank if it were bad gas? Or could there be another problem like a bad fuel pump. This vehicle is in real good shape & has been taken care of. I know I'm pulling straws, but any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • brophbroph Posts: 85
    It turns out that my distributor went bad?? This only has 54K on it. According to the dealer, the catalytic converter was bad also. I'm glad the converter is covered under the GM 8/80 emissions warranty. That's my story & I'm sticking to it.
  • bigrinbigrin Posts: 18
    Great site you guys. Can you give some advice? Am buying a 99' Jimmy from single lady who only changed the oil regularly. Highway miles of 69K. Besides oil change, filter, and air filter, what maintance should I do immediately? How about plugs, fuel filter, transfer case oil, etc.? Thanks for any help. cr
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I'd check the Edmunds Maintenance Guide to get an idea of what may have been skipped.

    Steve, Host
  • I would run as fast as you can from that thing. At about 65K we just started having problems with our '98 Blazer. I would say I was the exception but to many others on this board have had a similar experience. Our major problems include:

    ~65K Transmission fluid leak
    ~70K Engine failure (required rebuilt engine)
    ~75k Lower ball joints and shocks
    ~80K Short in the windshield wiper circuit board (recalled on '97 models but faulty on '98 also)
    ~85K Turn signal noise on all the time

    Plus a whole host of interior trim problems, more and more rattles every day and a high pitched vacuum whistle when engine braking. We get approx 17mpg combined city/highway.
  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    I recently had a Service Engine Soon light with a code of P0440 on a 97 Blazer. Supposedly this is the infamous bad gas cap which I replaced ($6.99!). A few days later the SES light came up again with the same code.
    Question: After driving and removing the gas cap, do you hear a pressure relief sound (hiss)? I don't on mine.

    mrjfleming: I've heard a clogged IAC valve will mess up your idle just as a clogged EGR will.
    Does anyone know where this IAC is located?

  • The IAC (Idle Air Control) valve is mounted to the throttle body. It is adjacent to the throttle position sensor (TPS). It can be identified by its round stepper motor housing. It is wired to the VCM (Vehicle Control Module) by a removable weather pack connector. Once the IAC is removed from its housing in the throttle body, the pintle valve on the end of the shaft can be examined. If it is caked with carbon, it's a good bet it's affecting the quality of idle. The pintle valve can be gently cleaned with solvent. However, avoid allowing any solvent to contaminate the stepper motor. Also, make no manual adjustments of the pintle valve shaft. The stepper motor moves the pintle valve shaft in counts. Correct movement will be compromised if you turn the pintle valve shaft by hand. The o-ring that seals the IAC to the throttle body should also be checked. If it has any damage it should be replaced. If the existing o-ring is returned to service, lightly lubricate it with clean oil.
  • Hi, I'm having an issue where there is no air coming from my lower vents. The Service shop took a look at it and didn't find anything (but they also mentioned that in order to look at everything, they would have to remove the dash and it would have ended up costing $800 -- a little too steep for me for a diagnostic...). Has anyone had this issue? Does anyone have an idea of what might be happening? Thanks in advance.
  • morencyjmorencyj Posts: 8
    Hello all!
    A few times in the last couple of weeks, the Jimmy (2000 4 door) has started rough and the check engine light has been flasing. I took it in to Canadian Tire and they hooked it up to the code reader. This is what I got back:

    PO300 Code on ECM - Random Cylinder Misfire
    Cylinder #3 had a miss history of 5612
    Cylinder #4 had a miss history of 103
    Cylinder #6 had a miss history of 1069

    What are the cylinder miss numbers and can you find out what they mean? (ie: 5612, 103, 1069)

    Canadian Tire wants to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and fuel filter. Maybe it does need all those parts, but the guy sounded more like he didn't know exactly where the problem he wanted to replace everything. Before I fell to their mercy, I thought I would post here first.

    Anyway using all those code numbers to diagnose the problem further?

    Thanks everyone!!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Those are the number of misfires counted. If it hasn't had plugs and wires, it's due. Use only ACDelco parts.
  • mor64mor64 Posts: 1
    My 1995 Jimmy seems to like heater cores. I replaced two of them in the past two years. A new one installed in Sept.03 just starting leaking. Any ideas to the cause of this problem.
  • palmoyaspalmoyas Posts: 14
    WOW! Thanks Cliff, that's a huge help. Great info there.
  • farscaperfarscaper Posts: 1
    Does anyone else have a problem with a lot of air coming from the top of the dash vents when driving on the freeway? My controls are all switched off, but I'm getting blasted by hot air as my speed increases.
  • 99lsblazer99lsblazer Posts: 1
    I have a 99 4dr LS Blazer and my engine coolant temp gage has started reading low. Usually it's ~210 but now days it's reading closer to ~170. The gage stays at 100 (min value) for a lot longer than it used to, but then progresses linearly to ~170 where it holds steady.

    I complained to the dealer about this and their solution was to replace my thermostat (they said it was "stuck") but the temp gage is still reading low. Before I go back and complain to them again, I was wondering if anybody had any ideas about what the real problem is.

    I've read the posts about coolant system problems with the car, and was wonding if the low reading on the temp gage is a sign that my coolant system needs some serious maintenance (flushing, etc).
  • bigaldsbigalds Posts: 47
    99lsblazer - Check your Coolant Temperature by using an infrared thermometer to measure the temperature of the hoses and the radiator tanks. This way you will know what the temperature of the coolant REALLY is, an you can determine if your gauge is reading incorrectly, or if your cooling system really has a problem. As with any other automotive problem, always start with gathering accurate information for an accurate diagnosis. If you don't have a small handheld infared thermometer, I would recommend you get one, as the price has dropped on those things, they were over $100 when they first came out, and now they are under $100. They are very useful for checking coolant temp, measure the temp difference between the radiator tanks to determine how well your radiator is working, Great for checking Air Conditioner Line Temps, even check the temp of your food, coffee and drinks!
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