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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    On the '93 S-15 SLT Jimmy's (and later year models I'm sure) the map lights would come on with the dome lights when the doors were open and the map lights could be turned on individually without the dome lights. I need to know if any of you have this feature if so please look closely at the switches for the map lights and tall me how many wires come out of each switch and their colors.

    Thanks so much.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    If any of you have a tech manual that covers the 1993 S-10/5 Blazer/Jimmy and it has the interior lighting wiring diagram in it and if you have a computer document scanner, please scan that diagram and email it to me at

  • Whenever I hit the gas to accelerate after a stop or sometimes even when it downshifts to second gear a loud clank sound is heard coming from underneath my Blazer, any idea what it could be?
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    Get under the vehicle and grab the drive shafts. Try to turn them back-and-forth with your hands. Do this only when the vehicle is cold, the shafts can get quit hot. If they move more that ¼” then this may be your problem. Have the universal joints checked or if they have grease fittings try putting some grease in them. Also have the “yoke” checked for ware and proper lubrication.
  • I purchased a used Jimmy several months ago. So far it's OK. Recently I noticed that when I accelerate heavily (pedal to the floor) while driving, the transmission shifts down, the engine approaches 4000 RPM (so far everything as expected) and then every idoit light (check engine, low fuel, ABS, etc, etc) light up and several gauge needles start dancing around. I let go of the accelerator and two/three seconds later, everything on the dash returns to normal. Anyone got some ideas?
  • in January this yr i bought a used 1995 jimmy the car lot gave us a warrennty to fix all we found wrong with it well i guess you know it never happened i had it in there shop three times before my hubby started fixing it it his self here is is august and still havin problems im ready to trade it in but i love the truck and i looked for it for 6 months so i would like to keep it hopeing someone here can help me the a/c compressor is brnad new the I ack(?) fuel filter egr value and i major tune up and im still having problems everytime the a/c is on the truck almost dies at a idle and runs very bad we have replace the u joints and got brand new tires and aalinement still shaking when going down the road and one more prob we havin we have replaced the belt and the clutch fan and im still havin a very bad noise and little shack up there some where at the first of take off it stops after you get going thinking of changing the power sterrng pump
  • Sorry it took me so long to respond. Thank you 1choice for info on grease fittings. I've got a problem. Two of the fittings, one on each side, I can't get my grease on them, not enough room. Is there a different fitting I can put on my grease gun hose to make this work? I've checked around a little, but can't find anything different than what I have.
  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    Quit torturing yourself. Dump it. This thing was probably a lemon from day one, and you aren't going to cure it now. If you want a Jimmy/Blazer, you can get a '99 SLS Jimmy 2WD for around $8K or less, and many of the bugs you are experiencing were worked out of those. Also, stay away from the 4WDs. That's where many of the problems lie.
  • tommctommc Posts: 68
    Those grease fittings are on the lower ball joints? Have to jack up the vehicle under the crossmember and the increased angle of the lower A-frame will let you grease them.
    On the 95 the idle problem is pretty common, not sure if there is a fix to this. The EGR valve is a pretty expensive device, it can often be cleaned easily and will make the engine run much better. Just remove it, push back the plunger and clean out the carbon there. The fan noise is also common with a replacement clutch on the fan, much noisier than the factory original unit but there is no real fix for it. The shaking front end will need an expert to find just what is going on, could be a pretty simple repair - but you might spend hundreds replacing stuff that is not really the cause.
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    Looks like I get to tell a familiar story about a power window that just won't roll down. The rear driver's side window (4 dr) won't move on my 97 LT. The tach shows a system drain when I hit either switch (master on driver's panel/passenger's panel), but the damn thing just won't go down.

    I searched the discussion and found similar problems, but the solutions varied from motor replacement to a short in a wire under the seat. Seeing as how most of our Blazers are experiencing similar problems, are there any other owners out there suffering the same fate? Is there a "common" solution to this issue, rather than conceding to hundreds of troubleshooting dollars?

    I hope this is a pretty straight forward fix. I've dumped enough loot in this beast.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    The wife put the driver side passenger window down on the way home from groceries. It was going to rain that afternoon so I went out to put the windows up. Didn't go but you could hear the motor lag from the electric drain when I tried to put it down. I ended up taking the door panel off and giving the motor a whack with the end of a screwdriver and got it to go again. Maybe I was lucky.
  • taffeyktaffeyk Posts: 1
    I have a 00' Blazer LT and I am having a similar problem with the driver's window. I was told by the Chevy dealer that it is either the motor or the switch. I was informed that the motor would be $300 and the switch would be about $180. My extended warranty will cover the switch, but not the motor. That would have to be the case. In any event, I have not had it repaired. I was hoping that it would be something minor that I could repair myself.
  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    Quit torturing yourself. Dump it. This thing was probably a lemon from day one, and you aren't going to cure it now. If you want a Jimmy/Blazer, you can get a '99 SLS Jimmy 2WD for around $8K or less, and many of the bugs you are experiencing were worked out of those. Also, stay away from the 4WDs. That's where many of the problems lie.
  • I'm experiencing a similar problem. When I push the 4 Hi button, I get no light and no 4WD.
    When I push the 4Lo button (while in neutral)
    I get both lights flashing, then nothing. I've read causes ranging from transfer case motor,
    solenoid, encoder, bad switches, or loose cable.
    What did you find?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 410
    I believe Fennd is talking about the windows.

    As for your problem, I just had my 4WD repaired under my extended warranty that has the same problem you are describing (lots of flashing lights, but no 4WD). Dealer replaced the encoder motor, part# 015636696. Part cost $332.03, labor to diagnose & replace = $126.00. Vehicle is a 1997 Blazer. I could engage 4LO, but not 4HI using the directions in the owners manual for emergency use when normal activation wouldn't work. Found this by chance when there was an extreme downpour & 4WD-HI wouldn't engage. Got lucky cuz my x-warranty expires in 2 weeks.

    This may not be your fix, but thought you might want the info. Last but not least, the dealer either pulled a fuse or battery cable to do this, as my radio presets were gone & the clock was wrong, so write down your presets when you get it repaired.
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    xfordman03: My problem was a blown fuse. Funny thing indicator lights still came on. Anyway~I replaced the fuse and all is good.

    The bad part is that NOTHING on this beast has been this easy to fix, making me thing there's an underlying problem somewhere that caused the fuse to blow in the first place. I'll deal with that headache later, after I win the lottery (or maybe I'll just forget I have 4WD).
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    cage47: Where is the wipe board to refer to in repairing the intermittent wipers? I'd much rather prefer to do the work myself, but just need to know where to look. To be honest with you, I really haven't searched for it yet, but you mention it's behind a black cover...hell, the Blazer itself is behind a black cover. Can you give me some coordinates?

  • You may want to try having the throttle body cleaned before you dump more money into a more expensive repair that still may not fix the problem. Having the throttle body cleaned is a relatively inexpensive repair.
    I have a 2000 Blazer and my gas pedal was sticking on take off, plus one time died in reverse, and run rough with the AC on. All this also contributed to more vibration from the front of the vehicle. Once I had the throttle body cleaned, the problems seemed to quit. The whole repair cost me $24.00. It's worth a try before you spend all that money.
  • Thought you would all like to know about a piece of information I picked up regarding the above.

    The service manager I spoke with recently, said that the cause of the drive train, transfer case, tranny shudders can be fixed if you are willing to do a little trial and error.

    Basically, what he explained is that the angle that the drive train goes into the tranny, can be adjusted by either adjusting the ride height in the front of the vehicle OR by putting shims in the rear axle area to raise the angle there.

    He stated that is does take some patience, however, it will get rid of the shudders.

    He also made the comment that the shudders get worse in the hotter weather. These were all the symptoms I had described in earlier posts.

    I haven't had the time to actual try the repairs, however, for those of you that have the time, this could be your solution.

    This would also explain why one of the earlier posts stated that he had the vibrations/shudders and they were easly solved with a $20.00 alignment. It changed the at the front ofthe vehicle, which in turn changed the angle at which the drive train moved in and out of the tranny.

    Just thought I would pass this info on, seeing as no one seemed to find the solution to that particular problem.

    If any of you try this and are successful, please let the rest of us know.
    If I get the time to try the repair, I will let you know if it worked on mine.

    Hope this info helps! God Bless!
  • Problems with 97 Chevy Blazer. On Long trips, my check engine light comes on. Once this happens, the trans shifts late and HARD. If I shut it off for 5-10 minutes it will stop the shifting problem... I have checked the code, and it comes up as P-1870. The book doesn't show this code. Does anyone know what this is or have any advice?
    Chevy said there is no problems, another mechanic found no problems. Just the same code which EVEN chevy can't figure out. This truck stalls at stop lites sometimes. 90,000 K.
  • Do a search on google for 'transmission 1870' and the top 3 entries are all related to hard shifts.
  • AHH! I am at my wits end and hoping that someone with a previous expierience can help. I purchased my 1999 GMC JIMMY a little over year ago. I have had no problems with it, up until now. Of course, the warrenty is no longer in effect (isn't that always the way!) and my tranny seems to be gone. I had NO warning about this whatsoever, no previous slipping or problems, and all maintaince has been kept up to date, the care has truely been well taken care of.

    It started when reverse went out...completely. The rest of the gears are now sticking and slipping. Taking into the dealership I've been told that it needs to be rebuilt and the cost is going to be at least $1600. I have been researching online for the better part of the day and discovered that an incredible amount of Jimmy owners have had this same exact problem. Upon contacting GMC...they have assured me there is no recall on it, and I am on my own...of course. I have been to this website and about four others (including consumer affairs) and although there are many many posts regarding this action has been taken.

    What is the next logical step to getting GM to own up to what is clearly a big problem with the Jimmys and Blazers?!?!

    Thanks so much in advance!
  • DTC P1870 sets when the VCM (Vehicle Control Module) detects an unacceptable difference between engine speed and transmission output speed. Specifically, the DTC is triggered when the VCM discerns excessive torque converter clutch slip when the TCC should be engaged. The 4L60-E transmission has a TCC system that uses a degree of slip to smooth the engagement of the torque converter clutch. The VCM takes a number of actions when DTC P-1870 occurs. Among them: actuation of maximum line pressure, inhibition of TCC engagement, and no 4th gear shift when the transimission is in hot mode. All of this contributes to the hard shifting you experience. Although you mention the transmission has been serviced regularly, I would check the level and condition of the transmission fluid as a first step. If it is acceptable, the fix will require a thorough evaluation of numerous transmission components (shift solenoids, TCC solenoid, converter clutch valve, pump assembly, seals, etc.).
  • fenndfennd Posts: 10
    My '97 Blazer began shifting HARD from 1st to 2nd about 2 months ago while hauling a very light load in the back, right over the rear axle. Thinking it was just a fluke, I left it alone until it did it a 2nd and 3rd time. I took it to AAMCO and had a valve replaced (sorry, I'm not too familiar with the technical name), but the AAMCO man said it's a common failure in the Blazer/Jimmy transmissions. This thing aparantly distorts with heat over time, comprimising the pressure in the system, lending to the hard shifts.

    Before I dig myself deeper into what I don't know about, I'll finish by saying that I let AAMCO replace the valve for $119 and haven't felt a hard shift since.

    Hope this helps somebody.
  • I bought my 1999 ZR2 a year and a half ago, since day one i have had this problem that noone seems to figure out. when driving on a gravel road it bouces around too much the interior of the vehicle sounds like it is going to come apart, when driving on paved roads with cracks in it, it too does the same, the front end shimmys or vibrates alot. at times when coming to a stop sign or making a left/right hand turn a loud clunking sound can be heard even by a bystander outside the vehicle. Also there is a constant pounding that can be felt by the passenger on the floor,The lower balljoints have been replaced, Upper ball joints are tight.New shocks were put on front and rear. Everything on the front suspension seems to be tight. the noise that can be felt and heard coming from the R/front feels like a bad strut on a passenger car. Does the torsion bars have anything to do with this. this vehicle has been on the alignment rack many times and every time the same answer. Every thing apears to be tight.
     can anyone help with this?
  • I am looking at a 98 LS 4WD, 4 Dr Blazer. It runs really good and I had it checked out @ 2 different places plus the dealership checked it out. It has 72K and all the service records with it. It is in excellent condition. An older man owned it, and I actually called him about the Blazer and he told me in the 5 years he had it he replaced a water hose, new battery, and he put new tires on. He said it ran great for him. Right now I have a 2000 Lumina (piece of junk that burns a qt of oil in 5 days) with 63K. They are asking 10,988 for the Blazer, although I have 2500 negative equity in my car. The total price after trade but not including taxes is 10,525. Am I getting ripped off? The blazer comes with a 3 month 4K mile warranty. I don't know much about cars, please help!
  •      Price is OK with the trade. Low book is about $7700, & it's a high maintenance vehicle for most owners. Unless your winters have heavy snow you might want to consider another vehicle, especially since you've gotten along w/o 4WD thus far. If you can afford a new car & want a Chevy then try a Chevy Impala LS.
         I recently traded in my 1997 Blazer which served me well, but it had a fair amount of warranty service. Although new car payments are obviously more expensive than maintaining what I already had, the peace of mind I get with a new vehicle is why I got rid of mine.
         I gather you still owe on your Lumina & you may be getting rid of one problem & inheriting another. Tough decision. Good Luck.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    Told 'em the gas gauge worked when it felt like it and gave them the last two recall notices (power mirror switch and seat belt ones) so they could have the GM dealer across the street "update" the vehicle on GM's dime. Picked up a new F 150 supercab 4x4. Truth be told, I think the similar GM Silverado gives more bang for the buck, but I will never give GM a dollar again because of the way I was treated over the years with this piece o poop Jimmy. If they had made things right to the tune of $300-something for the ball joints I would have considered the $30,000 + purchase of one of their products. Never mind the tranny, the wipers, the gas gauge, 2 of the 4 O2 sensors, or the endless SES light episodes, if they had treated me right I could have shrugged off the whole experience. Long after I forget the product I'll remember the company. Kinda a shame really, because it was quite a nice little truck when it was running-nice handling, wonderful ride, no rattles and better in snow than my 4Runner.
  • evolkevolk Posts: 9
    I am buying one this week, with oly 35,000 miles on it. Anything I should watch out for would be greatly appreciated.
  • dmetdmet Posts: 2
    Is there any way to stiffen the ride on my 1996 4WD/4door Blazer,besides replacing the shocks. It still rocks from side to side real bad. Can the torsion bars be tightened? If so, how?
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