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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • Whatever you do, do not put 'LT' tires on as it will kill your ride. Stay with 'P' rated tires.
  • spoomspoom Posts: 85
    if you haven't already done so, take the time to read up on this whole thread. There's too much to go over again, but tons of things that kept cropping up on many different people's cars. Good luck. When they are behaving they are a great all-around SUV, but they can nickle & dime you worse than any vehicle I have ever owned (I'm 47 and have had at least a dozen) and the way GM treated me they will never get another dime from my household ever.
  • I am having problems with the fuel gage on my 1999 4wd Chevy LT blazer. I have a full tank and just about 3/4 tank full my gauge goes right to empty giving me a false reading. Im constantly having to stop and top off my tank on long highway trips is this a sensor problem inside the fuel tank or can this be an computer problem?? I need help.
  • cewecewe Posts: 2
    I own a 99 Blazer, and recently have been hearing a wierd engine sound (on and off). Especially when the engine is just turned on.
    I step on the gas to accelerate, and then step on the brake to make a full stop. The engine sounds is not normal, it sounds like the car's engine is about to die (for a good 5 seconds or so), but it never does (thang GOD). It happens for about 15 mins or so (as I drive along), and it (may) dissapear.
    I just changed the lower ball joints, front & rear brakes. Anyone has some ideas or has experienced the same thing ? Please advise.
  • Hey guys (and gals). I just took my mom's 1999 Chevrolet Blazer into a local dealer to get a tranny flush and oil change. While in the service bay, they informed me that the oil cooler lines were leaking, there was a vacuum hose leak under the dash that effects the HVAC system, and the serpentine belt was cracked. The car only has 63K on the odometer. Are these problems normal? I can understand the serp. belt, but the oil cooler lines?!? They wanted $400 to do those. I declined, needless to say. My grandmother's 2001 Blazer had the same problem, but replaced the lines with aluminum lines, I believe. Shouldn't this be a recall?? Or is it?? Any help is appreciated. Thanks a lot!

  • dmetdmet Posts: 2
    I think GM uses a vacuum module to operate the air vent system to direct the flow, for heat,defrost,a/c etc...if you have a leaky line it could affect the air volumn and direction.
  • Thanks for the reply. It's very helpful. That leaky vacuum line on the HVAC system was effecting directional air flow (i.e. flow would not change from defrost to defrost/feet when the dial was changed).

    How can the oil cooler lines hurt an engine? Is it just because coolant leaks or is there any other problems that may arise?

    Thanks again!

  • ramped1ramped1 Posts: 159
    I believe GM had a TSB (technical service bulletin) on the oil cooler lines a couple of years ago. As I recall, I believe the lines and fittings were replaced on the vehicles affected. I'm not sure if it covered your problem, and I'm also not sure whether the '99 model year was included. You may want to call the GM customer service line or check with a local dealer.
  • wilfj1wilfj1 Posts: 52
    I found a posting on the net as to the procedure to reset the code. It sounds like a no brainer but my buddy said be careful you may just mess up the computer memory and end up with a big service bill. Has anyone tried to re program their remotes , with what results.?
  • wilfj1wilfj1 Posts: 52
    did they make a 2000 lumina? I thought the last one was in 99. The Impala came out in 2000. small point. Blazer, Jimmy, for the value you can't go wrong. Did you buy it?
  • A warning/observation/prompt for other experiences...

    I have a 2002 Jimmy SLS, around 35000 km's, and had to stop suddenly to avoid an accident recently. I drove away from that, luckily very close to home, as I suddenly had almost no brakes at all. I had to push all the way to the floor to get even a little response, and that was not the most confidence insipring. Fluid was leaking from the left front, and I had it towed to the dealer. After some investigation, it was determined that a control arm had been rubbing against a brake hose, and the sudden application had caused it to burst.

    Which prompts some questions:

    -has anyone else ever heard of this (ie control arm rubbing against brake hose) - I searched this forum and found nothing

    -why the heck did all four brakes fail? Only one hose burst (left front). When I asked at the service counter I was told, 2nd-hand, by a teenager that it was something to do with it bursting before/after (they couldn't remember) the distributor; the computer subsequently decided (!) to shut off ALL the brakes. Good thing I wasn't doing 100k's + on a highway when I figured out they weren't working...! I have a hard time believing they shut off by design.
  • I have a 2000 Blazer LT 4WD with 44K miles on it. I recently started experiencing vibrations at highway speeds. My dealer verified the problem. According to a GM document, there is no fix to this problem. According to GM Document ID# 1381844. The document is entitled "Vibration at Highway Speeds - Suspension Wheel #PI01273B - (09/15/2003). The document explains the problem & Symptons exactly as described in many of these discussions. There is a line in this document that reads: "This vibration is considered a normal characteristic for these vehicles and no repair attempts should be made." This document covers 2 & 4WD drive GM vehicles with the same body types (i.e. blazers, Jimmy, Bravada, S-10, Envoy) and covers years 00 - 03. This is absolutely ridiculous!! If this was "normal" why didn't the vehicle do this when it was new? I called Chevy's customer service line and they verified the document. They told me to take it to another dealer for a second opinion After that I guess I'm out of luck. My dealer found the document at the following URL:

    Has anyone had better luck from GM in getting this problem fixed?
  • kpannkpann Posts: 13
    My Blazer has been running about 20 degrees cooler than normal and now that the mornings are in the 30's I have no heat so I put in a new thermostat. It is now running back at normal (200 degrees) but still no heat. I looked for a valve in the heater lines but didn't see one. Any suggestions. Looking to try cheap fix first before I go the dealer.
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    ...sounds like your heater core is clogged and you're going to need it flushed. That Dex-cool crap will clog your core if it jells up. SO you know, you can put in the green coolant and it won't cause any problems. I've done it and it's fine. Going on 5 months.
  • kpannkpann Posts: 13
    Thanks cage47, for the heck of it I flushed the Heater Core last night and this morning I had heat. I tried to get the bottom radiator hose off to flush the entire coolant system but couldn't get the hose off. What is the best way to flush the system, does the thermostat need to come out first?
  • brophbroph Posts: 85
    I was thinking about flushing out the jello & replacing it with the green stuff. Did you do it yourself or did you have it done. I curious as to how much it will cost to do the change. I just had the waterpump replaced in my '99 w/ 51K on the odo. I feel that that was a little premature. Thanks for any input.
  • Finally had enough. 76,000 miles and in my opinion, could not be trusted as a day to day vehicle. Cooling system failures(transmission coolant lines, heater core) a pending $750.00 bill to replace the intake manifold gasket, door bushings needed to be replaced...etc etc plus the inadequacy of my local dealer to fix anything right. Too bad, was a good truck but it will definately nickel and dime you to death. Shouldn't be having the problems it is considering the milage and care it has had.

    On the positive side....I love my new 4runner!!!
  • cage47cage47 Posts: 17
    I did it myself. I picked up one of those backflush kits from Autozone, one that you install an adapter in the coolant supply line to the heater core. SUre enough a week after I changed the fluid I found that my water pump was bad also. I had green fluid trickling out of the little pee valve hole. Turns out the old Dex cool had jelled enough it had worn out my water pump but it was gelled enough that it didn't leak. And a week of the green stuff flowing through it cleared it out enough for the fluid to start leaking. Fortunately it was the easiest water pump I've ever replaced. No I didn't take out the thermostat. There are directions on the kit. It cost me $5 for the kit and $7 for the antifreeze/coolant (twice after replacing the pump). Oh and my 98 has 72k miles on it. YMMV But you'll probably want to replace it again in six months since you probably won't get all of the old Dex cool out. When I replaced the water pump, after one week it went from bright green to a definite brownish tinge. Not bad but you could tell it wasn't totally clear. I checked it last month and it's still bright green. And Heat is good and warm.
  • brophbroph Posts: 85
    cage47: Thanks for the info, I'll have to give it considerable consideration.
  • Every few months, my 98 Blazer will just refuse to start. Acts like it wants to start, just wont turn over. If I let it go for 15 minutes and try again, it starts right up. Happened 6 times in last year or so. Dealer replaced egr valve, still happens. Now dealer "thinks" it may be ignition switch being locked out by the security system. Any similar problems or ideas? Thanks
  • Before switching from DexCool (orange coolant) to standard (green) coolant, be sure your Blazer is no longer under any factory warranty. GM considers it a breach of warranty to replace DexCool with standard coolant. Since DexCool is subject to coagulation well before 5 years, I understand the reservations expressed. Personally, I drain and refill my system with fresh DexCool each year. I also recommend using distilled water when cutting your DexCool or standard coolant to its 50/50 ratio. Even though GM's service manual permits the use of good quality tap water, the limited additional expense for the distilled water is worthwhile insurance. Since the 4.3 liter is all iron (block and heads), I perfer playing it safe.
  • abc246abc246 Posts: 305
    The best thing to prevent problems is to make sure the coolant tank is full, even over-full. The reason Dexcool has problems in the Blazer is that iron (from iron block and heads) in the coolant mixes with air (there should be no air in a closed system).

    The next best thing to do is to replace the radiator cap with one that has a spring on the return valve.
  • My 99 Blazer had a clogged rad. The GM dealer flushed it out and the only explaination I got was that it looks as though someone has added stop leak to the rad. I have had it since new and have never added anything to the rad.
    Since the flush it seems to take longer for the temp to come up. New thermosat was installed. A gurgling sound is now very audible while driving. Not all the time but especially when excellerating.
    I asked the dealer about possible water pump damage,head gasket/exhaust manifold problems,heater core being clogged and was told all is well, just a clogged rad.
    Any suggestions ?
  • 17188 miles, left rear seat belt will not buckle, dealer replaced under warranty.

    21498 miles, drivers side recliner lever fell off, front seal on rear differential leaking, repaired under warranty.

    33631 miles, temperature display changes units when raining (changed exterior sensor), missing coolant (pressure check, no leaks), loud noise when starting (changed starter), Drivers side mirror vibrates (replaced) all under warranty.

    35600 miles, passenger seat recliner lever fell off (replaced under warranty), rear differential still leaking, tailgate cover cracked (replaced under warranty), Temp display still changing units.

    36100 miles, hard starting replaced battery under warranty.

    37492 miles, transmission line came off transmission, line and fitting replaced, $205.89.

    41236 miles, starter replaced again, $431.81.

    48000 miles, battery cable broke off the battery, cable too tight, new battery again $64.16.

    49647 miles, drivers seat recliner lever fell off again, steering really sloppy, changed lever and steering gear. $965.33.

    70193 miles, passenger seat recliner lever fell off again, 4 wheel drive will not engage (encoder motor), Alternator replaced. $1120.53.

    72455 miles, wipers work occasionally (replaced controller board), Turn signal switch keeps clicking (replaced), idles rough (flushed system and changed fuel filter no help), loud exhaust (catalytic converter changed under Factory Warranty), front end loose (Idler arm, upper and lower ball joints replaced, alignment) Also changed the alternator belt and belt tensioner do to noise. $1948.45.

    75194 miles, radiator flush and fill since the heater was not working due to sludge build up from red antifreeze.

    88736 miles, loud exhaust again (catalytic converter, dealer wants $600), power steering pump shaft seal leaking (replaced), noisy AC compressor (replaced), front seal on rear differential leaking again and loud clunk during acceleration (rear pinion seal, yoke, case, bearing, shaft, and gasket replaced). Idler arm replaced again. $1988.26.

    93351 miles, loud noise from rear-end when driving, speed sensitive. Pinion Bearing and seal replaced.
  • jr845jr845 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 GMJ Jimmy SLE with 78K on it. The last 18 months has been an ongoing nightmare of problems and repairs. The vehicle has been dealer maintained and has had tlc to the 9th degree. Aside from warranty issues including; power windows (twice), oil lines, door hinge, FWD system, power steering pump and wipers. The last 18 months have seen the following post warranty repairs:

    Brakes including rotors and emergency brake
    FWD (3 separate occasions)
    Upper & lower ball Joints
    Wheel bearing

    At the moment the "service engine light" is on constantly something that the mechanic attributes to moisture and/or ice in the secondary air injection pump. Their comment is that they will attempt to dry it out and if that doesn't work will "replace it". What really peeves about this vehicle (and GM in general) is that they seem to take an obviously poorly designed & engineered part and replace it with the same thing. It took me a while to catch on but with the upper and lower ball joints for example, the orginals wear out beacuse they have no fittings and cannot be lubricated. Take it to the dealer for replacement and they will put the same original equipment units (with no fittings back in). Take it to a third party chain and they will replace them with a better quality component complete with fittings (for less money I might add). I had problems with the drive side door hinge at 35K and the dealer told me that the problem was that they used brass in the hinge which was too soft. Now at 78K the same thing is happening again because they apparently replaced them with the same defective brass components. I have a new noise in the front end that developed over the last few days and I believe it is the bearing on the other side.
    Overall this has been a very high maintenance vehicle, and in all candor I would not suggest it to anyone. My neighbor has a the same model but a 2001 with 50k and he can predict his maintenance pattern by what I have done. So far he has encountered verbatim almost every problem that have I. It seems a tragedy that GM engineers a vehicle to be "worn out" at 75K. This will be my last GM vehicle and I have had GM exclusively since my first new vehicle in 1980. My wife has had 5 new Honda's in the same period and had two post warranty issues across all five of them. And get this, even though they were out of warranty, the dealer went to bat for us with Honda and got both post warrnty items covered.
    Anyway; has anyone encountered a similar problem with the secondary air injection pump?
  • Tonight I took my mother's 1999 Blazer to do an oil change on it. While I was driving it, I noticed the steering was EXTREMELY tight and hard to turn at times, while at others, the steering was loose and was ineffective when moved. After I changed the oil, I checked and added some power steering fluid with no apparent fix. Can anyone tell me what might be up? I remember when I was little, the idler(?) arm on my mom's 1989 Blazer went out. Is this still a problem on the newer models? The vehicle now has about 70K miles on it.

    When I changed the oil, I noticed something pretty access door for the oil filter. I am used to the filters being directly attached to the block. Whey is the filter separate from the engine block?


  • Hey everyone!
    I just had my front, right bearing replaced a few days ago and now this. I hope whatever is wrong doesn't cost an arm and a leg. I have a 2000 4 door 4X4 Jimmy. This morning I turned the key and it started rough. It sounded like it was missing a beat for a while, but as it warmed up, it started to sound more like itself. When I looked at the dash, the engine light was on. The truck has always started fine. I went and gased up, came back and left it shut off all day. I just went out and started it up, the engine light is still on. Also, it seem to start fine. Any ideas? Unlike a noise of some kind, with this kind of problem, a shop can pretty much tell you anything is wrong. Please point me in the right way!!!!

    Thanks in advance everbody!

    Jason Morency
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the check engine light is on there will be stored trouble codes in the powertrain control module. AutoZone will extract them free in the hope of selling parts. Post the codes and we'll go from there.
  • Any thoughts in regards to post #877?


  • Sounds like the power steering pump is dying, but this could be a few things. Me, I'd pay the $ to have it checked out. If it feels like manual steering it 99% likely to be the pump. I've heard lots of issues, but none have been about the idler arm. The remote filter is due to the remote oil cooler. Many owners, including myself, have had these oil cooler hoses replaced due to leakage or rupture. Keep an eye on those & any oil under the vehicle as they can lead to a blown engine really quick.
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