Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options

Jeep Cherokee

1424345474851

Comments

  • Options
    jimbo01jimbo01 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Mdawg25,

    I would not do anything, but buy a K&N Air filter and run it in the factory air cleaner intake. I was looking myself for the same thing, and decided to go with a K&N Filter (P/N#: 33-2122)on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I did not like the unprotected conical round air cleaner out in the open under the hood. It breathes justr as good with using the factory OEM air cleaner box under the hood. I hope this helps you with your decision, because I am really please with mine. Thanks, and happy jeeping!!!!!!!!

    Jimbo
  • Options
    mdawg25mdawg25 Member Posts: 23
    Thanks Jimbo
    What about aftermarket exhausts? I've been told to stay away, but do you know anything about them?
  • Options
    mjgirardmjgirard Member Posts: 10
    I own a 96 Cherokee with 141600 miles and have never done a thing with the transmission at all from day 1. It runs great, shifts and still does 80 with not a problem. What concerns should I be looking for in later mileage? This is the only car I have never done a thing with on the transmission, it is the workhorse of the family and is always on the road; unfortunately I have neglected "The Red Hair Step Child" (my daughters call the Jeep this name) on this manintenance issue.

    Thanks for the info.
    MJGirard
  • Options
    davinsa88davinsa88 Member Posts: 1
    I need some advise, I have read almost all of the message from the last 4yrs on this boeard since i have bought my 98 cherokee, i have replace all shocks, and replace rear tranny seal, and line tranny line, front brakes, power steering line, rear main seal changed the oil, oil pan gasket. over 800.00 for all the work. now today i drove too work which about a 15 mile drive on the highway. the temp gauge always seem to stay at around 205 to 210. today i drove to work it sat for about and hour then when i started it again the temp gauge was at 100 to 105 then it will jump up to 205, 210 again. did this all day when running around for work. but trips were only about 20 minutes long. i am no mechanic so please understand that most work will be done by my mechanic. on the drive in rush hr traffic it start at 105 and when i got on the highway and did about 55 to 65 it jumped to 210 and stayed there till i exited and was stop at a light wher it started to rise and past the 210 mark. when i got home on sat for about 5 min. letting it idle to see if the temp would go any higher it did to about 225 but i shut it off in fear of burning up the engine. i went inside and came out about 5 minutes later and i notices fluid on the ground so i got under the truck and notice it was a red fluid and think i heard something dripping coming from the engine compartment. any info would be much appreciated. sorry for the long post and my lack of skills on the subject. thanks
  • Options
    timmer23timmer23 Member Posts: 24
    The oil cap on my 2000 Cherokee I6 won't come off. It will turn in either direction, but just clicks instead of unscrewing or screwing in.

    A replacement cap won't cost much so I wouldn't mind tearing the cap off, however I am concerned about debri falling into the engine.

    What can I do to get the cap off?
  • Options
    tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    big plyers shoul not get to much stuff in engine could look in after the operation and check it out through the fill hole not to much that can fall in
  • Options
    dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Red fluid is usually from power steering system or the automatic transmission. Check the connections on the lines that were replaced. If you park it after stopping and place a big sheet of cardboard under it you should be able to locate the drip source.

    For high temperature indication, check that your cooling fans are operating properly and that air flow to the radiator is not blocked. It could also be a bad thermostat or low coolant volume. Sometimes the temperature guage could be in bad.

    Best take it to your mechanic since that's who will fix it anyway.
  • Options
    jimhajimha Member Posts: 4
    My daughter drives a '99 Cherokee Sport with about $70k miles. We recently took it in to the dealer for another problem and ask them to check the heat just as a precaution as we live in the NE. They are telling me that the coolant is very rusty, the heater core is shot and that it will cost approx $1,500 to replace. I understand that they have to pull the dash, but can it possibly cost that much? The car is making plenty of heat at present.
  • Options
    sam93sam93 Member Posts: 1
    i am looking for a steering column for a 1988 jeep cherokee laredo.any help would be appreciated
  • Options
    dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    Can you tell us what all is included for $1500? Have you looked at the coolant for yourself? I would not replace the heater core if you are getting heat and have no leaks. At 70,000 miles, I would flush the system thoroughly, replace all the hoses, replace the thermostat and refill with antifreeze and water. That is normal maintenance and may cost around $300 at the dealer depending on the cost of the parts.
  • Options
    torrymendozatorrymendoza Member Posts: 7
    I had the "death wobble" a few months into buying my jeep, it turned out to be ball bearings, one was turned to dust. It was most noticeable at speeds around 45mph after hitting a small (transition in the pavement) crack. It felt the front end was going to fall off. Hope this works.
  • Options
    irishman4irishman4 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 99 jeep cherokee and its killing me. it starts just fine and runs good but for some reason everytime i start it once i get to a point where i am holding a steady speed or i have to press the gas more it lags and i mean that by it will be going just fine but then it will act like it isnt getting any air and its gasping for it so the engine starts to die down and i slow down then i press the gas to make it go faster ot open the throttle and i get this loud popping noise that sounds like its coming from the right side of my engine after i i get about 3 or 4 pops that sound like a backfire the engine revs up and im good to go untill i turn the car off and start it back up again. i thought it might be my vaccume canister and lines so i swapped em out but that didnt do it im thinking i might need to service my ac compressor but im not 100% sure so i need help anything you guys might have to help would be great thanks guys.
  • Options
    lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    Sounds like a clogged fuel filter to me. At least that would be the least expensive try first.
  • Options
    tom53012tom53012 Member Posts: 1
    I have two noises on my 2000 JGC. The first appears to be coming from the rear and can best be described as a 'whirring' sound. It happens at all speeds and sounds exactly like a tire that is cupped and worn improperly because it was never rotated. My mechanic says that despite what I think, it is from the diffirential and that many jeeps have this issue. His suggestion: live with it.

    2nd noise sounds exactly like the trailer ball/bar bouncing up and down and slapping around in the receiver - expect I have removed the trailer coupler and it is stored in my garage. Any ideas?
  • Options
    shademistshademist Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport and I am having some electrical issues. My rear wiper switch recently stopped working. At first it would do intermittent but now it just stopped completely. No matter which way I put the switch it is dead. Also my cigarette light does not work. And for some odd reason the passenger door window switch works ocassionally. I have noticed that sometimes if I mess around with window lock and the drivers side window it will work. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • Options
    garry7garry7 Member Posts: 6
    To Shademist,
    If your wiper isn't working, I think you'll find that the shaft where your wiper blade is attached has rusted, you will need to spray some light oil on the shaft and let it soak for a few minutes, could be the same problem with your switches. I get the same problem with my Cherokee.
    If you've been driving through mud and water, things start rusting pretty quickly and the earthing system loses contact, so check your earth straps on the vehicle and make sure they are not rusted, a good spray can of DWF or similar light oil spray is a necessity in your glovebox.
  • Options
    shtevoshtevo Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Cherokee Sport. A deer removed the driver side mirror so I bought a replacement. My question is this: How do remove the door panel without causing damage to connectors, etc. There is one phillips head screw on the cover that I can't reach without partially removing the panel. It is very cold here (9F) and I'm afraid I might not be able to get the panel back on properly.
  • Options
    dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    After you remove all visible screws, take a wide blade putty knife and slip it under the panel near each plastic clip and gently pry from the door. The wide blade should help distribute the force and avoid cracking the panel. Don't force it. The top part of the panel is hooked over the door frame. Lift up to release. There are electrical and mechanical connections from the panel the the door interior you will need to disconnect to completely detach the panel. Remember how they go together. I take digital photos. To reinstall, line up the panel so that each plastic clip indexes their corresponding hole and gently use push each clip into the hole. You may need a little hammer action with your fist to get them to seat. The clips snap when seated and the panel should be flush to the door frame.
  • Options
    harley5980harley5980 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, I just bought a '96 Cherokee Sport 4.0 For some reason I'm getting about 100 miles to half a tank. (~200/tank). Is this normal? Any suggestions? Thank you.

    Semper Fi
    USMC
  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Are you basing that on what the gas gauge indicates for a "half tank?" I wouldn't rely on that. You need to fill up your tank, record the amount of gasoline you put into the tank and the odometer reading at that time. The next time you fill up you can calculate how much gasoline you actually used and, along with the new odometer reading, get an accurate measure of your gas mileage.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    If you get 20 mpg that's great. Most folks get about 15 mpg.

    Actually, just to be clear. You fill your tank to full and record the odometer. Then, when you have driven at least 100 miles (further will give a more accurate result), fill the tank to full and record the odometer and how many gallons it took. Calculate the miles per gallon by subtracting the first odometer read from the second and divide this mileage difference by the gallons used to fill it. Of course this assumes your odometer is correct. Also, filling the vehicle on a level grade both times is best.
  • Options
    harley5980harley5980 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. . .I'm heading back to the gas station now!
  • Options
    aspo67aspo67 Member Posts: 1
    i am a uk owner of a jeep cherokee sport 98, i have recently purchased it and found that the heater into the cab keeps blowing only cold air, this is a real pain as it is freezing cold here in the uk at present, can anyone give me a solution to fix the problem, thanx.
  • Options
    rbaxendalerbaxendale Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 4.0l Cherokee auto. For several weeks, the electric fan has not been cutting out occasionally when I switch off the ignition - running on after the engine has cooled. A couple of days ago - it started running all the time - with the engine running and after switching off. At the moment I am disconnecting the battery to stop it running. Can anyone help, please ?
    I am a retired beancounter...not very techy, I must confess.
  • Options
    lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    The problem might be that the heater control valve, (it lets the water from the engine come into the dash), may not be opening. I have a 96, but I think they still are controlled by vacuum. On the passenger side of the engine compartment you should see two hoses going into the firewall. one has a valve on it. while the engine is running, have someone slide the selector from cold to hot. You should see movement on that valve as it opens and closes. The problem may be as simple as the
    connector hose may have fallen off the valve due to dry rot! If this is the case, you should hear hissing as air is being pulled in that hose. A small piece of hose would probably fix that. One more thing- make sure the radiator is full of coolant! If its not, you may not have enough coolant to go through the heater core. (Have to say this:never open a hot radiator!)
    If this doesn't help post another, and we'll (or someone else) can take you from there!
    Cheers!
    David :)
  • Options
    scrubbyslovescrubbyslove Member Posts: 4
    1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport.. Wont start!! Alarm @(&^??? Plzzzz help....


    dumbolgurl :blush:;) :shades: :sick:
  • Options
    tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    A little more information would be useful for anyone offering to help you. When you try to start your Sport does it make any sounds? Does the engine turn over? Does the engine make any clicking sounds? Sputtering? Do your lights work?

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Options
    raymond6raymond6 Member Posts: 2
    I have a problem and maybe someone might be able to help me.I have a loud noise comming from the drive train somewhere. I have change the u- joints and also replace the pioion bearing thinking that would slove the problem but it did not. The noise is only noticable on the highway when you hit 70mph and over.Hope someone can pin point the problem for me.
  • Options
    lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    A little more info would be helpful. Is it whirring noise, grinding noise, humming noise?
  • Options
    stephen50stephen50 Member Posts: 1
    The parking lights will not turn off, both front and rear. They remain on until the battery is dead.
  • Options
    simpson3simpson3 Member Posts: 3
    Recently got a jeep and had someone else change the oil, shortly after noticed an oil leak from the piece that bolts to the flange extruded on the side of teh block. It is actually the part the oil filter screws onto, it seem to be leaking were it's two pieces come together. Does anyone know if there is an o-ring or gasket or even better the correct name of the part that the oil filter screws onto????? :confuse: :confuse:
  • Options
    simpson3simpson3 Member Posts: 3
    check for short? more than likely a problem in the switch.
  • Options
    mchl77mchl77 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 xj it has an electric cooling fan for a/c , heating and a clutch fan for the motor i was told that when i turn on my a/c the electric fan should turn on for the length of time my a/c is running and will cycle is this correct and if it is i may have a prob . the relay is ok and it runs if i unplug from thermostat but it isnt working the way i hear it should??? need some advice thanx
  • Options
    scrubbyslovescrubbyslove Member Posts: 4
    My engine turns over, but won't start, acts like its out of gas. Lights work fine. It started out by dying while driving down the road for no reason. would start back up after sitting for 20 - 30 mins. kept getting more frequent, until I can't get her to turn over at all. I replaced the fuel filter, changed the coil, checked the coil wires, and was told it could have something to do with my alarm. ???... Any help would so be appreciated... Thanks, Lynn
  • Options
    ptwalshptwalsh Member Posts: 1
    i replace my cat and header recently, I have had problem after replacement with start up, when i do, the car screams to redline and i have to turn it off that second. either it is an enormous intake leak or i have a sensor problem... any suggestions????

    I realize that this is an old post, but did you find a solution to this? I just replaced the exhaust manifold on a 2000 Cherokee and am having this exact problem. Thanks for your help.
  • Options
    scrubbyslovescrubbyslove Member Posts: 4
    My engine turns over, but won't start, acts like its out of gas. Lights work fine. It started out by dying while driving down the road for no reason. would start back up after sitting for 20 - 30 mins. kept getting more frequent, until I can't get her to turn over at all. I replaced the fuel filter, changed the coil, checked the coil wires, and was told it could have something to do with my alarm. ???... Any help would so be appreciated... Thanks, Lynn
  • Options
    torrymendozatorrymendoza Member Posts: 7
    You might want to check the CPS (crank position sensor) unit. Although, you'll never know without diagnostics. It'd be easier to just have a garage run diags. on the vehicle to pinpoint the problem. I had a similar problem, although I don't have an alarm.
  • Options
    scrubbyslovescrubbyslove Member Posts: 4
    I read here that if i turn the key on and wait for a bit it might start. I waited 1 minute and it started right up. will take it out tomorrow and let you know how it goes. thanks for the help... lynn
  • Options
    hesster1hesster1 Member Posts: 1
    there is a three piece gasket set you can buy the piece is called an oil filter adapter mount take it of go to local hardwear store and buy normal orings just did it yeasterday on my jeep but that is common and easy to fix one bolt just make sure to have it lined up right
  • Options
    lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    The dealer has this kit as well, It only cost me $3.60 a few years ago. It might take a chisel to get the nut off, as you are standing on the passenger side of the Jeep, you'll want to turn the nut counter-clock wise.
  • Options
    lildavidjaxlildavidjax Member Posts: 68
    I have posted this same answer before, most likely its the crankshaft position sensor.
    It's on the top left of the bell housing on the back of motor.(about where your foot would be on the gas pedal) (At least that's where it is on a 94 Cherokee.) It takes about four long extensions to get to if you want to do it the easy way. Mine cost 56-58 bucks.Any other questions, post again! Good luck!
  • Options
    aguarinoaguarino Member Posts: 13
    I HAVE A 2000 JEEP GRAND CREROKEE THE OIL PRESSURE GAUGE IS READING HIGH WHEN MOTOR IS RUNNING. WHAT IS THIS ABOUT? AND WHERE IS IT LOCATED?"
  • Options
    jean22jean22 Member Posts: 1
    Hello!

    I own a 1995 Jeep Cherokee, and I used the 4WD during quite a long period this WE due to snow conditions. Unfortunately after approximately 30 miles I heard a huge noise banging at the left front part of the car. Then the steering became very hard and I had to stop and to be towed..

    It is now at an auto-care service and I am told that the transfer case is burnt (there was far too little oil remaining and I never paid attention before). I would like to bring it back to where I live (300 miles from there) in 2WD (which seems OK) but I am told it could be dangerous (loose transfer case...). Otherwise I should pay 1400 $ to replace the transfer case of a car which is worth around 2900 $.

    What should I do? Do you have any advice for me?
    Thanks!
  • Options
    dancermandancerman Member Posts: 220
    If the case is that badly damaged, I wouldn't drive it... you may not get to far. I guess you'll have to compare the costs of the two options. $1400 to fix it where it sits versus the cost to tow it home and fix it yourself. You may find that $1400 is not a bad deal after you buy a used transfer case and add the cost to tow it 300 miles.
  • Options
    jeepguy2219jeepguy2219 Member Posts: 1
    Recently my jeep has had issues with all the lights; panels, headlights, etc.. flickering. This started about the same time I noticed the battery voltage gauge would read at highest voltage. I turn the jeep off, gauge is normal. But the lights continue to flicker from time to time. I found there is some corrosion on the + terminal of the battery and plan to get that cleaned soon. Curious if anyone has had this problem, or can suggest something to check on!
  • Options
    bud29bud29 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Jeep GC with 50K miles. I attempted to start one morning and it was completely dead, (no lights, remote unlock etc.) I jumped it and it seemed to be fine, it restarted immediately, and I did not have any problems for about 10 days.

    This morning I went out and it started fine, but cranked a little slow. As drove down the street I noticed the ABS light flashed a few times but other than that it seemed normal. About 5 hours later I went out to start, and it was dead again. I was able to jump it but if the RPM fell below about 500 it would die. I attempted to drive home and it seemed to do OK as long I kept the RPM up.

    About 3 miles later the car died while driving down the street, and once again it was “dead as the proverbial door nail”

    While waiting for another jump, with the key out of the ignition I could here some switching sounds and occasionally all the gages would jump several times. Once again I was able to jump start but the car would die if the RPM fell below 500. Then miraculously something thing happened and the car ran normally. I drove home (about 1 mile), turned it off and it started and ran fine. About an hour later it started normally and seemed to still be fine.

    Obviously I have an electrical problem does anyone have a more specific idea what my problem is?
  • Options
    tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    how old is battery? sounds as if you have a battery that is going bad with all the jump starts hope you did not fry the pcm
  • Options
    tuggajbtuggajb Member Posts: 646
    first clean battery turm and see if that don't fix your prob
  • Options
    willy9willy9 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 jeep cherokee with a dash full of idiot lights. I know other versions of this vehicle come with more informative guages and a tack. Has anyone ever replaced the simple instrument cluster with the more informative one? How difficult is this swap? Are the needed new parts costly and hard to find?
  • Options
    sgtagnersgtagner Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2WD Jeep Classic 4.0 and i have replaced... power steering pump, altenator, A/C compreessor, Idler pulley, and belt but it still makes a constant squeek at idle and while driving. Also my oil pressure gauge is a little high while i'm on the throttle, i have replaced the oil pressure sensor, should i replace the pump? any help???? thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.