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I would not do anything, but buy a K&N Air filter and run it in the factory air cleaner intake. I was looking myself for the same thing, and decided to go with a K&N Filter (P/N#: 33-2122)on my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Classic. I did not like the unprotected conical round air cleaner out in the open under the hood. It breathes justr as good with using the factory OEM air cleaner box under the hood. I hope this helps you with your decision, because I am really please with mine. Thanks, and happy jeeping!!!!!!!!
Jimbo
What about aftermarket exhausts? I've been told to stay away, but do you know anything about them?
Thanks for the info.
MJGirard
A replacement cap won't cost much so I wouldn't mind tearing the cap off, however I am concerned about debri falling into the engine.
What can I do to get the cap off?
For high temperature indication, check that your cooling fans are operating properly and that air flow to the radiator is not blocked. It could also be a bad thermostat or low coolant volume. Sometimes the temperature guage could be in bad.
Best take it to your mechanic since that's who will fix it anyway.
2nd noise sounds exactly like the trailer ball/bar bouncing up and down and slapping around in the receiver - expect I have removed the trailer coupler and it is stored in my garage. Any ideas?
If your wiper isn't working, I think you'll find that the shaft where your wiper blade is attached has rusted, you will need to spray some light oil on the shaft and let it soak for a few minutes, could be the same problem with your switches. I get the same problem with my Cherokee.
If you've been driving through mud and water, things start rusting pretty quickly and the earthing system loses contact, so check your earth straps on the vehicle and make sure they are not rusted, a good spray can of DWF or similar light oil spray is a necessity in your glovebox.
Semper Fi
USMC
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Actually, just to be clear. You fill your tank to full and record the odometer. Then, when you have driven at least 100 miles (further will give a more accurate result), fill the tank to full and record the odometer and how many gallons it took. Calculate the miles per gallon by subtracting the first odometer read from the second and divide this mileage difference by the gallons used to fill it. Of course this assumes your odometer is correct. Also, filling the vehicle on a level grade both times is best.
I am a retired beancounter...not very techy, I must confess.
connector hose may have fallen off the valve due to dry rot! If this is the case, you should hear hissing as air is being pulled in that hose. A small piece of hose would probably fix that. One more thing- make sure the radiator is full of coolant! If its not, you may not have enough coolant to go through the heater core. (Have to say this:never open a hot radiator!)
If this doesn't help post another, and we'll (or someone else) can take you from there!
Cheers!
David
dumbolgurl :shades: :sick:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I realize that this is an old post, but did you find a solution to this? I just replaced the exhaust manifold on a 2000 Cherokee and am having this exact problem. Thanks for your help.
It's on the top left of the bell housing on the back of motor.(about where your foot would be on the gas pedal) (At least that's where it is on a 94 Cherokee.) It takes about four long extensions to get to if you want to do it the easy way. Mine cost 56-58 bucks.Any other questions, post again! Good luck!
I own a 1995 Jeep Cherokee, and I used the 4WD during quite a long period this WE due to snow conditions. Unfortunately after approximately 30 miles I heard a huge noise banging at the left front part of the car. Then the steering became very hard and I had to stop and to be towed..
It is now at an auto-care service and I am told that the transfer case is burnt (there was far too little oil remaining and I never paid attention before). I would like to bring it back to where I live (300 miles from there) in 2WD (which seems OK) but I am told it could be dangerous (loose transfer case...). Otherwise I should pay 1400 $ to replace the transfer case of a car which is worth around 2900 $.
What should I do? Do you have any advice for me?
Thanks!
This morning I went out and it started fine, but cranked a little slow. As drove down the street I noticed the ABS light flashed a few times but other than that it seemed normal. About 5 hours later I went out to start, and it was dead again. I was able to jump it but if the RPM fell below about 500 it would die. I attempted to drive home and it seemed to do OK as long I kept the RPM up.
About 3 miles later the car died while driving down the street, and once again it was “dead as the proverbial door nail”
While waiting for another jump, with the key out of the ignition I could here some switching sounds and occasionally all the gages would jump several times. Once again I was able to jump start but the car would die if the RPM fell below 500. Then miraculously something thing happened and the car ran normally. I drove home (about 1 mile), turned it off and it started and ran fine. About an hour later it started normally and seemed to still be fine.
Obviously I have an electrical problem does anyone have a more specific idea what my problem is?