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David
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Recently I had my front drive line removed from the quadra-track 02 jeep. My problem was whenever i turned a corner in the jeep it would make a grinding noise and it sounded horrible. The mechanics told me i had metal pieces in my front differential and the best and cheapest way to fix it was to remove this drive line....
Now it sucks because i dont have 4wh drive anymore and if feel this is a safety issue. The mechanics also told me that the quada-track system isn't strong enough to take it off roading in the sand and that thats why it was tearing up the front diff.
Has this happened to anyone else?
I'm not all that famaliar with the 02's but that sounds like a front axle CV joint that's bad. Assuming your truck has CV joints and not U-joints, the first thing I would look at is the rubber boots on the CV joints to see if they're ripped or torn. If you get dirt or water in the CV joints, they will go bad quickly.
1-autozone.com..loin,select your car,and their website has a online manual!..a great find,i use a lot!..it's not always as thourogh as i'd like sometimes,but will still usually give you a idea of what's what-especially the funnest part of auto repair-under the dash ! ! also,you can shop for the replacement parts-price for your rig..
--2--try a tube of alumaseal in the coolant..it comes in a tube,about the size of a roll of quarters..only open the radiator cap when your system is cold,otherwise it will erupt like a sience class volcano-probably scalding you..push down,and-like a child proof asprin bottle-there is a safety catch,so ya gotta click about a quarter turn-1/4..
pour in thepowder,refill with the proper mix,as pure anti-freeze WILL freeze ! !
do NOT add the sealer into the reserve bottle..it will only plug the line to your radiator..take it for a hour drive..to get rid of the anti-freeze smell quicker,flush the air intake of your car with water..it's the grill under the wipers under the windshield..it'll also clear out the drain,or let you know if you've got a plugged drain
-the stop leak might save you from having to replace the heater core !..now-wouldn't that be a wonderful thing?? and,if not,ya gave it a good try!..best of luck ! !
windtalkerr :shades:
David :shades:
paganmomma
check this url
Thank You
Paganmomma :shades:
i've "hillbillied" plexi into the passenger door ,and the 1/4 glass on the passenger side(why they missed the rear door-i dunno)..it's a v8---is that the 318?--.but the guy's brother-in-law had it setting at his work's bodyshop for two years..kids broke the windows..his boss started giving him greif about inherating lawn decorations and sutch,so i got it for 500...the body's straight,a tune up should fix the motor,but the rearend's growling..it's that all time all wheel drive,
--has anyone tried putting lock/unlock hubs on those?..cause i notice why the rearend went out..i turn tight in a parking lot,and can feel it binding..should be good in crappy weather,but on a dry parking lot,it binds.....haven't ran the first tank through it yet,but have already discovered --it LOVES gas..and drinks a lot of it!..i'm hoping it will get me through the winter without too mutch trouble..fortunately,all i need is to get to my doctor's and the grocery,so it should make it that long
rebuilding a rearend should prove a challange to my abilities,but-i've got more time than money,and will give it a whack!
-- :confuse:
--your not giving me a lot of hope for my new aqusition,with yours going "clank"..
did you fry the bottom-crank/rods,or was it electrical?
was yours "all wheel drive"?,are all laredo's?..
-i was thinking about the "all time 4wd,and would trading out the transferr case to a shift in 4wd case-like out of a cherokee- a good idea? would it fit?
my motor sounds good,other than a fresh set of plugs and wires..
were you running that 5w-stuff in it?..they should ban that stuff..someone might use it,and think it lubricates!5w is too thin! 3-in1 oil is 10 weight! DO NOT USE 5W-NOTHING!!..not in anything you want to keep running!!
..guess i'll spend the winter researching some stuff,get in contact with some rock crawler peoples,and make a decesion..here's hoping it makes it through!
set up a account-enter your kind of car,and they have a online manual-with exploded views,this will give you a idea of what comes apart,and where to look for the screws ..
"heater treater?..maybe heater core?..anyway,the online manual is there..maybe that'l help..
merry christmas :sick:
if you shop for the cheapest guy,he may not do all the little extras that might save you more work later on..
you also don't want the mecanic who'se trying to bring everything back to new--it's NOT new..it's got 180k on it!..but-with proper service,they can last to 500k
but you don't do that by snapping a axle,and driving it home-just becausre it's still moving--get to the side of the road,orthe next exit,anbd STOP..when things are grinding metal to metal,those are expensive parts grinding up..usually more than the wrecker/tow truck would've cost you..and-with any 4 wheel drive-when calling a wrecker-let them know it's 4w drive,as you can't drag a jeep with any of thec wheels on the grou nd..you need a rollback or a trailer..
:sick:
your old lock cylindeer might have been just fine with a good dose of lock lube-graphite.grease..after-of course,you get it unstuck!..wonder just where dude hit it to get it to loosen?//
ya see, i'm in that category of "i barely can afford gas,and a couple grand to have the service dept put in a new lock cylinder...well..i'd probably have to drill out the old cylinder,and try to make it NOT look like i stole the dam thing..with the lock missing,and a screwdriver for a key,..that kind of thing..
the "hammer therapy"using the old mecanic's creed of "if all else fails,GET A BIGGER HAMMER!" recently saved me a long cold walk,when my old aerostar's starter decided that the night the temp dropped under zero-to crap out on me..i crawled under it,and gave the starter a few "love taps" and-IT STARTED!!..what had happened there was the armature in trhe starter just happened to land on a worn spot,and wouldn't make contact..whacking it moved the shaft only a micron,but it was enough for it to work..it's been starting just fine,but it did give me fair warning....so,when it quits on you,-sometimes,you can get yourself out of a fix by using primitive methods!
You could also try putting a little dielectric grease in the connector after making sure the pins are seated correctly.
I have a 1989 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer 4x4 auto with a 4.0 liter straight 6.
I went ahead and removed the head from the Jeep because I was getting an excessive amount of oil coming out from under the head. It was evident the head seal needed to be replaced. So of course I went thru the whole process of removing the head from the block. Once I drained all the fluids, I went ahead and removed the valve cover. Once I did that, I went ahead and loosened the cap screws at each bridge pivot assembly. Then I remove the pivot assembly. And then the rocker arms. And then of course the push rods.
When looking into the condition of all the parts pulled, a couple of the push rods weren't as straight as all the others. So I went ahead and bought a new set. The bridge pivot assembly and rocker arms are in good condition with no excessive wear.
One thing I didn't think about when I pulled everything out was keeping track of which rocker arm went to each pivot assembly. I'm usually pretty good about detail, but I spaced this one out.
On each pivot assembly, there are two indentations that run down each pivot. It looks something like this below. Some are matched up, and some are different. I hope there's someone out there who knows what I'm talking about. The bottom of the rocker arms has the same indentations as well. Being there are six cylinders there are obviously 6 pivot assemblies. They are as follows...
[/\----/\] [/\----/\] [/\----/\] 3 are the same
[\/----\/] [\/----\/] 2 are the same
[/\---\/] One is odd
I don't know if this makes sense to anyone. If so, please let me know if there is a way to resolve this problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated...
Maddy :confuse:
Make sure you have the same V pattern on the fulcrum as what is on the rocker arm and you will be fine.
I believe you would get the oil pressure symptoms prior to your oil pump failing. The only way to properly diagnose it is to put a gauge on it.
It just seems wierd that as soon as that problem was solved, the other oil pressure issue immediately cropped up.
I'll put a gauge on it to see what the real pressure is, for sure.
Edit: my Haynes manual says the oil pressure at idle should be 13 psi and over 1600 rpm should be 37 to 75psi; I'm actually not far off of that, should I even be worried?
oil pressure sensor
(the elec tape is there to prevent the white part on top from popping off).
So, is it likely that some sort of diaphragm within the sensor unit is compromised and that's causing seepage into the top connector? If I were to replace this, apart from draining the oil, is there a way to prevent oil from pouring out when I remove the old sensor unit (if it would even pour out)? Any other advice pertaining to replacing this is appreciated.
If it is the oil sensor and it is in the side of the engine block, you won't even need to drain the oil. All of the oil will be in the pan when the engine is not running.
Just pull it out and install the new one. Put a little bit of oil on the O-ring if it has one and reconnect the electrical connection.
Good luck!
I started to get this wobbling vibration in the rear of my Jeep at about 40 to 50 Mph. It wobbles so hard that it almost feels like the rear end is going to fall off the truck. Problem solving the issue, I first thought was that maybe the drive shaft was out of balance. In thinking that was the problem, I went ahead and pulled the drive shaft off. After doing so, I went ahead and took the Jeep out for a spin in 4 hi. Again, when I got to about 40 to 50 Mph, the wobbling vibration still occurred. So than I went ahead and lifted the front end of the truck up and spun up the tires. I wasn’t getting any kind of vibration at all. In doing so, I realized that it had to be coming from the rear end of the jeep.
So my question is this, what would cause the vibration? I tried out different tires but it still occurs. The one thing I haven't done was to change out the shocks in back. Do you think that this would be the problem?
If there is anyone who can help, it would be greatly appreciated..
Tracy :confuse: :confuse: :confuse:
I'd look for the easy stuff first. Get under your jeep or lift it up such that the wheels are still on something so that the suspension is compressed (be safe!). Look to see if any nuts have come off of the suspension components. Break out your torque wrench and torque EVERY bolt\nut that is part of your suspension. Take it out for a drive.
Still there? Check your rear wheel bearings. You should be able to jack it up to see if you have any play.
It could be your shocks but you should be able to rule that out by standing on your bumper on each side of the vehicle and stepping off. If it oscillates more than a couple of times, you may have a shock issue. Typically you'll see evidence of oil leakage on the shock if they're bad.
Hope this helps. Good luck.