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I would call customer service and complain that your check engine light continues to come on and the dealer is not being "cooperative" in finding the answer. It would help if you had the code number when making the call. You can go to most major auto parts shop and they will read your code for free.
This has been the first real maintenance that I've done on the car 255,000 kms and still going strong. The steering and suspension are still tight.
I bought a 3 way catalytic converter, the A Pipe that connects the exhaust manifold to the converter, oxygen sensor and all hardware and gaskets.
Total parts from majestic were around $700.
I paid the local muffler shop $80 to install. Honda dealer quoted over $2000 for this work.
Only kicker is that Canadians pay about $240 for duties and taxes on top of that. So my total bill was half of what the local dealer wanted.
Thanks to this site I saved a fortune. Not bad for a 10 year old car.
J.
So I just noticed a little note on the bottom of the bill that says the "oil pan gasket seeps." He obviously did not think I needed it replaced now or he would have pointed that out to me. My question-could it possibly be a oil leak from the crank or cam seals replaced when I put in a new timing belt 6 months ago? I took it to different mechanic back then(long story), then a month later that same mechanic said the cam and crank seals were leaking and needed to be replaced. I pointed out that they had just done that and that I had heard those seals can be tricky to install correctly. They "fixed" it and said I was all good. I'm wondering if I should have my old trusty mechanic check this out next time I'm in the shop for an oil change and just monitor my oil levels until then. What do you all think?
Am I right that the oil pan gasket leak may be a engine seal leak instead?
good luck.
Thanks for any help!
Either one of those would cause your engine not to start.
Thanks Again!
If you don't have compression, you have much bigger problems than sensors.
1) Catalytic converter defective (Failure possibly due to #2, 3 or 4).
2) Engine misfire or running condition.
3) Large vacuum leak.
4) Engine oil leakage into exhaust-valve guide seals, piston rings.
This light came on with the same code a couple weeks ago, and then turned off in a couple days, and now it's back. No vacuum leak's apparent, and I'm not noticing any change in the engine's running that could suggest an engine misfire. I'm not noticing any off-colored smoke coming from the exhaust, and I haven't been losing any substantial oil. So how would I check to see which one it is?
BTW, the engine does have a timing chain.
What does the engine's having a timing belt have to do with it?
Now this past weekend, when I decelerate to come to a stop it feels like it jerks a little when the transmission switches to its lowest gear (thats the best way I can describe it), and sometimes the "service engine soon" light comes on but usually just briefly until I accelerate again and then it goes away. Sometimes when I am idling the engine sounds like it is about to cut out, almost like it is sputtering along, but this goes away when I hit the gas pedal. at times, when it is idling, the service engine light comes on. When it is doing this the car definitely gets louder (with the sputtering..). I'd really appreciate suggestions and more information about what the possible problem could be. Also, since the car is 20 years old, I'd like to get a best guess on how much the repairs might be for this. Obviously I don't want to spend to much $$ on this car. Its done this a few times before in the past (usually every couple of months or so) but it has usually gone away when I added a half pint or so of engine oil. But this time it doesn't seem to be working. :sick:
Randy
I suggest doing a google search on "Kia Sephia P0422". When I did it, I came up with a bunch of hits. Too much information to post. It seems the catalytic converter is probably not the problem and is likely some other sensor.
How easy is it to check the o2 sensor, which seems the likeliest easy fix?
Most 02 sensor replacements are unnecessary but now and then, it is the right thing to do----less often than you'd think, however.
A labscope is how we check the O2 sensors.
You check the wave forms of the sensor. Some will be "lazy", slow or show signs of inoperation.
If my mechanic checks the emissions (I figure the easiest and cheapest check possible), would they be the same for a defective oxygen sensor(s) and a defective cat?
No, the O2 sensor is electrical, the cat is mechanical/chemical.
So the O2 sensor is checked with a meter and labscope, where a cat/exhaust is checked with a pressure/vacuum gauge.
If the cat is plugged, there will be a major pressure differential between the inlet pipe and outlet pipe of the cat.
Here is some light reading on the subject.
Testing the cat
Diagnosing a Cat efficiency failure This is the proper way to diagnose it.
what's a girl to do? any help is greatly appreciated!
I can help you if you want. Just post something here and I will get back to you. Try to give me as much info as you can. For example, are you taking your car into a garage for repairs or is a friend fixing your car. What parts have you changed recently? Stuff like that, then I can get a better idea on what to tell you how to fix your car.
My Sentra has been getting its repairs at a garage (well known and does great work in my area). It was @ the garage on Thursday (the 20th) and they checked everything out and nothing seems to be wrong or relevant to the code. They cleared the code and it was fine for a few hours and the "SERVICE ENGINE SOON" light popped up again. We called the dealership and told them that it wasnt having this problem before it went to the dealership and they think it might have to do with when they reset the computer when it was at the dealership on the 13th for the ECM recall. Its idling higher than normal and pulling back when I left off the gas. It's going to the dealership on Tuesday to see if Nissan messed up or missed something.
Thanks so much
I brought the car to the shop and the code is P1022 and the message is "Throttle low circuit"
Does anybody know what kind of problem I am having and how to fix it?
FYI...The problem has been on and off. When it is "on" I usually cancelled it and drive for days, or sometimes weeks, then the light would come back on a gain after a while intermittenly.
Appreciate any help at all
Minivanforus
The scan tool indicates Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0122: A low voltage problem in the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuit.
The TP Sensor is a potentiometer. It is connected to the throttle valve shaft. As the throttle position changes, the throttle position sensor varies the voltage signal to the ECM/PCM.
You can't fix this yourself. You'll have to take it in for further diagnosis. Maybe it's just some wiring glitch, hopefully. If you have to replace the ECM that's expensive.
Thanks
Thank you for your help. You are right
I was told that it is best to bring in the shop when the check engine light is "ON". I have been waiting for that to happen but everytime it does I am far away from the dealer. The car kind of "crawls and roars" on the road so I just cancelled the light and drive.
Can I just drive to the dealer anyways and tell them of the diagnostic and have the ECM replaced. That way I could save 100$ for the second diagnostic?
Also how much you would say the ECM costs? Is it worth it to hve it replace on the 8 year old car?
Really appreciate your help
Best Regards
Well unless you can buy another 8 year old car for $650, yeah, it's worth it. But maybe it's not that. Maybe it's only that throttle control business.
Actually the car was brought in the repair shop once for the diagnostic. The mechanic was playing with the wire for a while but could not solve the problem. So I think it is not a wiring glitch.
One last question though. If it is just the sensor issue and if the ECM costs more than I can afford then can I keep cancelling the check engine light and keep driving like that forever or it is getting to certain point where it might be too risky to drive?
Best regards
But the mechanic can't just wiggle wires and shrug. He should be able to diagnose each wire lead back to the pcm or the sensor---so if it's not A and it's not B, then it has to be C.
Like that.....
No guessing allowed.
The mechanic actually "played" with the wire for a bit. He charged me 90$ for that as well.
Well. I will take the car in when the light is on again. Hopefully I would be nearby some Honda dealership.
Appreciate all your time and advices
Best regards,
First test should have been test the circuit.
Next would be to jumper terminals A10 & A12 (you need a diagram and flowchart) momentarily to see if the IAC is actuating (clicking).
Then pull the IAC and see if the port in the manifold to it, is plugged with oil or carbon.
Did they clear the code and the same code returned?
No dis-respect intended, but it sounds like you went to parts replacers, not mechanics.
If they cleared the code and it returned the same code, then it is clear there is a problem with the IAC circuit. Now you need to find a real mechanic who can properly diagnose the problem.
One thing before you go to another mechanic.
On the left side shock tower, there is a loom of wires and connectors.
Check those wires to make sure none are shorting, grounding or broken and check the connectors to make sure they are connected.
I would also suspect one or more clogging injectors, or injectors that give off an irregular spray pattern.
More diagnosis is needed.
Thank you for your help. Will bring it in to a dealernext week for help. Sounds like you know your stuff. Wish we had people like that around here.
just as an update,the car is very hard to start when warm. Starts fine when cold. This has just started recently. Turns over fine but will only fire after several tries. Dealer is estiminating $1000 plus for repairs. He suspects a defective fuel pump, however wouldn't that show up at highway speeds? :confuse: