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Comments
Do you have any suggestions how to clean the evaporator coil?
Tnx!
You might want to sit down with the service department and ask for a complete review of the bill and all charges. By asking careful questions you might knock this bill down.
It's a very unlucky break for you, but if you're out of warranty you're out of warranty. You could certainly call or write VW and ask for some kind of assistance. Call their "zone office" which the dealer can give you contact info for.
I know it's a pain becoming your own advocate and spending all this time, but you could end up making $100 an hour doing this work, so it's worth a shot.
As for the injection pump, it is susceptible to damage and is a very complex little gadget. You have every right to be disappointed however. Had the car just sat for ten years, I'd say, well sure, okay, but you've been using it regularly. It shouldn't have failed IMO and VW should at least help you out by either (or both) kicking in some cash and reviewing the dealer's bill. Something about the dealer's bill (as you've presented it) is troubling, unless there are other things on there you didn't mention.
Thus one should add the price of the IP to the cost of a TB replacement. Even then, the cost should not be over $2500.
Also, some shops may find other moving parts that are worn. (serpentine tensioner/pully, sprag-clutch on alternator pully...etc.)
It is a losing propasiton to try to save a buck by NOT replacing somthing while in there. For example.... a failed pully can cause the TimingBelt to slip and a piston can crash into valves.... and you think an InjectionPump is expensive??
This is another GREAT opertunity for me to repeat.... allways-ALWAYS add diesel-fuel additive when you fill the tank. Not only will you get 3-5MPG increase, but it also lubricates the expensive IP and runs quieter. Contrary to what gasoline-additives do.... DIESEL additives truly imporve the crappy fuel we have here in NorthAmerica.
I assume you are ALWAYS pushing the clutch pedal to the floor?
You may want to also verify that the clutch is fully disenguaging.
If the clutch *is* fully disenguaging... then what you describe sure sounds like the wrong xmission fluid may be in there. A fluid which is too slippery will essentually disable the synchros. from doing their job. The synchros. need a little 'friction' so they can equalize the spinning metal components against each other.
(the 'pause' between gears will be too long and if you push harder to get the synchros. to do their thing.... the gears end up slamming into each other.)
You might want to consider changing the xmission fluid.. USE ONLY THE SPECIFIED VW FLUID! A lot of folks have experimented with xmission-fluids in a VW and the concensus is that VW has done their homework. Nothing (except mabie RedLine MTL) can match the performance of the VW-specified fluid.
Can these clips be replaced? Where can I get them?
Or do I have to look for a whole new distributor?
For now.... any way to hold down the cap will work. Perhaps a bungie-chord wrapped around the cap and under the distributor may work.
The VW dealer wants 500 for a new cluster and install. However, there are several used clusters online (thesamba.com, vanagon.com, ebay), only I do not know if I have to match part numbers or if they are universal from 93-99. Has anybody went through this before?
I found some reverse style white faced gauges that would match the head unit I want to install (reverse style means the numbers light up, not the whole face). A local speed and sound shop told me they would install that cluster with the new gauges for 75-100 dollars. Is this something that a certified VW mechanic or the dealer needs to fix? Is there something that needs reset, or is it a simple install that the speed shop can do?
Also, if anybody out there would happen to know the part number for my cluster so I could order one from the net, that would be great. (94 Jetta 2.0L GL manual).
What would you guys do? Any help is appreciated, I hear this is a common problem among the VWs.
It definitely helps to know how fast you are going...
Thank You
6 months ago, I had the first service (5k miles) done, when the actually mileage was 3K.
Now it's 12 months, and I accumulated mileage to just above 5000 miles....
(my home is really close to my office..)
Shall I have the second service (for 10K miles) done now? or shall I wait?
Also, anybody knows the relationship between scheduled service and warranty? If I don't do the second service now but will the mileage reaches 10K, will there be any issue on "void warranty"?
Your reply is appreciated :confuse:
Short-driving cycles which do not allow the engine to get hot long enough allows the condensation to build up and migrate to the bottom of the crankcase. The crankcase of your engine is building up acidic water droplets in it. That is the MAIN REASON oil is changed...to get rid of the acidic build-up.
Oil does not stop being slippery... that would be like saying water can stop being wet.
You should be changing your oil/filter at least every 6 months reguardless of milage. It is cheap insurance against servere engine problems later.
In reguards to your question about the "warantee".... lets be clear about this - the "warantee" is not an "all-or-nothing" affair. If somone does not change their oil... the unlimited-milage warantee on the body is not affected. Nor is the warantee on the rest of the vehicle.
The Federal government has you protected...Read the Magnusson-Moss Act (which also came with your new car)
The only way to "check" the automatic xmission fluid is with a computer connected to the plug under the dash. Thusly, you can determine the temperature of the fluid and then follow a procedure to check the level.
It is best to leave things alone and just follow the maintenance schedule reguarding fluid-changes. It is VERY important that you use ONLY the fluids specified by VW. This holds true for engine-oil, antifreeze, xmission, powersteering, brake.... etc. Folks who have "experimented" with other fluids found that the German engineers did their homework in reguards to fluid-specifications.
Anyone have a similar experience and any ideas to what is causing the engine light to remain on? O2 sensor? Computer leads need to be cleaned? I'd rather not bring the car back in to the mechanic for a diagnostic since he previously charged me $85 (and suggesting the coil be replaced).
FYI - car has 150K miles - catalytic onverter was replaced at 80K.
Thanks for any suggestions.
If you do have another issue that makes the light to come beside your ignition coil, the light will come on again. So this is just a quick fix for the light to go away.
Joe
Actually, I was able to get the c/e light to go off (a friend was able to reset the light . . . I drove it for about 100 miles and brought it back and it still failed . . . eventually the light came back on) but the car was still failing the emissions test. The light is not flashing like before . . . and hasn't flashed since I sealed the ignition coil and changed the plugs.
I don't have the radio code so I will lose my radio if I pull the cables (not a big issue if I thought that was it but I'm not certain that will solve the issue).
This is really frustrating!!!
"ON" means a simple failure which is OK to keep driving...but should be looked at soon.
"FLASHING" means there is a SERIOUS problem which can cause harm and destruction to your automobile if you continue to drive it. (Like raw fuel entering the catalytic-converter which can burn it to a crisp.)
To answer your question (which has been asked 100s of times before on these forums) To actually know why the CEL is on, you need to hook up a computer to the connector under the dashboard. Either locate someone with a VAGCOM, pay somone, or go to an autoparts store (AUTOZONE) who will get the code for you for free.
Once you know the code... come back here and tell us what it is. At that point, we may be in a better position to help you.
I took it to Autozone tonight and got the following:
Troublshooting PO420
The PCM has determined that the catalyst system efficiency for bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder 1, while bank 2 identifies the cylinder on the opposite bank.
Definition
Catalyst efficiency low bank 1
Explanation
The oxygen sensors monitor teh catalytic converters ability to store oxygen.
Probable causes
1 Catalytic converter defective (failure possibly due to 2, 3 or 4)
2. Engine misfire or running condition
3 Large vacuumleak
4 Engine oil leakage into exhaust valve guide seals, piston rings
None of the above sound good!!!
If No. 3, your engine would run very rough at idle
If No. 4, you'd get a cloud of blue smoke when you start up in the morning, and possibly blue smoke when you let off the gas at high speed. Notice either of those symptoms?
A misfire would definitely make your catalytic converter unhappy.
Visiting Host
Any recommendations? Replace the plugs? Wires? (although I did just replace each . . . ).
Thanks.
It is possible that perminant damage to the Cat has happened BEFORE you replaced/fixed the wires/plugs/coil. Was the CEL flashing at any time (and the car driven)?
Also, the O2 sensors themselves may be sending inaccurate information to the computer.
It sounds to me like your next logical item (least expensive) to replace is the ignition coil.
I go through the checks and notice im getting no fire when i remove the spark plug.
I notice when she turns over the card, the rotor isnt turning. I checked to make sure the rotor isnt sheared and its not.
My question is after a 2 hour search online, is how do i remove the old distributor?
Is there anything i need to watch for when replacing this? Do i have to be in top dead center? I would really love to find a PDF walkthrough but any info is appreciated as its our only car at the present and its Sat afternoon, and cant afford to be missing work.
Any and all help is appreciated.
Im fairly compatible so good luck to me /cry
As someone above mentioned, a busted timing belt can mean piston crashing into valves and serious engine damage. Perhaps you are lucky.
Just curious ...
Do you know when the Timing Belt was last changed?
What is the recommend TB change interval for your 1996 2.0L
I tried looking up on www.vw.com but their data only goes back to 1999 2.0L which shows a 40,000 mile TB check interval.
The codes I am getting are P0130 (O2 sensor Circ., Bank1-Sensor1 Malfunction sporadic) and P1103 (O2 sensor Heater Circ.,Bank1-sensor1 performance too low sporadic). I have a friend at the VW dealership who sold me the sensor. He wasn't quite sure what to tell me. He is gonna check for software updates then get back to me I guess.
The Car runs fine. It had some "knocking" in the exhaust for a while until I replaced the o2 sensor. Now the knocking is minimal if at all. I really need to get his fixed so I can pass inspection. Does anybody have any ideas?
Also, if you have an exhaust leak between the catalytic and the cylinder head, that's going to throw everything off as well.
The only folks that replace a sensor just because it is flagging a problem are 1) Paid mechanics trying to make a buck and 2) Shadetree mechanics that dont know any better.
I am concerned that your O2 sensor HEATER circuit is throwing an error. (not the O2 sensor itself) You can use an ohmmeter to isolate that issue within a couple minutes.
I agree with the last appender. You need to hook up to a laptop computer and capture some readings while you are driving. This is what a knowledageable repair person would do BEFORE blindly replacing stuff.
As I have said MANY times before... VagCom is better than the VW shop software. (In the right hands.)
Steven
I am trying to understand why my post was move to an existing post regarding an OS2 sensor.... I am trying to get help in replacing my drive belts..... Could yo help me understand?
Thanks
This is a general discussion for maintenance and repair conversation involving the Jetta, that's why it's the best place for your question. By placing your post in an existing discussion, it is more likely it will be seen by the people who participate here.
Hope this helps!
Diesel fuel tanks can accumulate crude and even algae (hence the biocide). You should be adding conditioner every couple tankfuls. Redline makes a good product, as does BGK.
If filters and conditioner don't work, you'd have to suspect dirty injectors, which may need a strong dose of professional grade injector cleaner, like you get from a truck stop--not the whimpy stuff at Wal Mart.
Visiting Host
Unless you have triangulated information about your VW dealer ship and it DOES check out with multiple sources (TDI specific), stay away from the dealership.
You may wish to check on www.tdiclub.com for the local trustworthy parts vendor/ mechanics. I would be remiss if I didn't say it that is one of the good/bad things about VW TDI's. I am sure other OEM's that bring TDI's on line will have similar issues.
VW Maintenance Schedule
The fuel filter on your diesel is a somewhat elaborate affair. You should have been draining the water separator every 5,000 miles and replacing the filter....oh...I'd say every 20,000 miles to be conservative or every 30,000 miles on the outside.
If you don't have an owner's manual, you should order one from the dealer and read it cover to cover. There's a lot of good info in there.
Here is another link which explains your pumpe-duse engine oil.
Personally, I use the German-made Pentosin oil in my TDI. Pentosin is the factory-fill oil for VW and I see no need to not use an engine-oil that designd to work in TDIs
I beleive your 2006 TDI has the pumpe-duse engine which calls for VW505.01 specification (VW allows for the new spec vw506.01 and 507.00 that engine but that oil is harder to find.)
VW505.00 MUST NOT be used in pumpe-duse engines!! (that decimal-point makes a HUGE difference in the oil-formulation)
In fact, VW added the ".01" to the specification especially for the pumpe-duse engines.
BEWARE: Using the wrong oil in your pumpe-duse engine has been shown to destroy the camshaft. This is beacause the camshaft in that engine also drives the fuel-injection pulses. To fit int the extra cam-lobes, the designers had to make the cams skinnier than in other engines... thus the cams get MUCH higher loading and need the special oil.
Again, start with your SPECIFIC VW owners manual for the VW specifications. If you become remotely interested (i.e.,like bpeebles and I, etc) , , there are a few ongoing discussions/debates as to what is the best brew given the parameters you find yourself operating with and in. So for example, while I know and have faith the latest VW 507.00 specifications will work in my 03 TDI (non PD), I still use Delvac 5w40/Mobil One Truck & Suv 5w40.
I love my Jetta and so far I had not had many problems with it. One day it just would not start so I tried the old lock and unlock the door trick (the alarm on some of the VW’s have an anti theft device that does not permit it to be started when tripped). That did not work so I did the spark test; no spark was coming from the coil, checked the distributer, nothing wrong still did not start looked for a problem in the charging system every thing was ok. Man this thing had me stumped big time! Thinking no spark, new coil, new distributor, and check on the charging side. Still no spark what was I doing wrong? It had to be something simple, it just had to be! Systematical look at things starting system has only a few components to include the starter, solenoid, battery, switch, distributer, a couple switches, and coil. The only thing not checked was the ignition switch in the column, why not so then took the ignition switch out of the steering column and sure enough it was worn, a quick run to the parts store and a little tooling and I was back up and running!!!!! Who would have thought to look there? I was stumped because the engine was turning over when I turned the key. The no spark was the contact in the column being bad.