I changed to Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter in my CL-S at 1000 miles. All the vehicles I have owned were switched to syntheic oils at the 1000 mile mark.
Redline is supposed to be a good oil, way overpriced compared to Mobil 1 and Amsoil. Very hard to locate a dealer and purchase as well. For convenience you cannot beat Mobil 1, next is Amsoil. Also, Redline does not make a filter so either Mobil 1 or Amsoil filter or Pure One needs to be purchased.
I've got a 99 Nissan Altima with 24K on it. The schedule calls for change every 3750 miles. I am going to switch to Mobil 1 the next time I need an oil change. Not happy about the price, but if it improves mileage, and keeps the engine cleaner, then I think it'll be worth it. I don't plan on changing 10-15K as some posts here say, and I'll stick to the 3750.
While you would undoubtedly get a superior lubricant, your cost would go up 3-4 times. While I am one of the ones that go the 15,000 with absolutely no problems, in my mind at the 3750 cycle, you are consuming money at a faster rate without "bang for the buck".
And that's why I hesitated to switch at my last oil change. But I'm not about to go 10K on any type of oil. I live in Florida and want an oil that will stand up to not only engine heat, but the heat from the damned Florida sun.
Just read about Pennzoil Synthetic w/Pennzane API SJ 5W-30 for about $4.49/qt. More than Mobil 1. Pennzoil spent 250 million to improve their so called crappy sludge forming oils...They developed this synthetic oil for NASA for use in space. Hmmmm, I ve used their oils for many years without any problems. Pennzoil says on the bottle to change every 3,000 mi under severe conditions ie stop n go, short trips, high temp conditions... They also have a reg mineral base oil with PUREBASE that maintains an almost clear oil compared to the others at the 3000 miles.
Just passing along some info I came accross on www that may be of interest. I may prefer to go to Mobil 1 for my first oil chg on my '00 Chevy C2500 5.7L Vortec at the 3,000 mi mark. I intend to keep this truck for rest of my life. Am 54 year old babyboomer. Still thinking about it.
Switch to synthentic. However, the new ones on the block Pennzoil etc. may not be the best. One of the best, not the first is Mobil 1, and Amsoil was the first. You can go extended drains, build up to it slowly if you are nervous. I was, now no question it works. Changed my oil yesterday, had 12,157 miles on it, filter changed at about 6,800 miles. I have sent of for analysis but I know that it will come back fine, all the others have. I use Amsoil but Mobil 1 a great oil.
I own a 00 Maxima and just got the oil changed at 3750 miles. Have considered a synthetic, but what exactly are the benefits?
Also, a little off topic, the owner's manual says that I must use high octane gas, but I wonder if that is really necessary. I have to commute 120 miles round trip to work each day and would love to save a little by using the mid-grade gas. Can I do this without fear of damaging the car?
I think if you use the navigational tools under the topic title here to read the previous posts, you will find lots of discussion about the benefits of switching to a synthetic.
On your other question, you may want to use the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page for Maxima - you should find some Maxima topics in our Sedans conference where owners are hanging out who may have even already discussed this question.
Good luck.
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I, for one would be curious as to your stats when you find out and care to post. My guess is that is is about as clean as a whistle AND probably 20-40% left on the oil use cycle. (in mileage terms 15-20k) By the way, I use 5w-30 Mobil 1 in all of mine.
Just purchased two new vehicles. 2000 Honda Civic and 2001 Subaru Forester. Contacted each company and asked about synthetics (Mobil 1). I was told that I should "break the engin in before switching oils". The question is---what is the right number of miles before switching to a synthetic? Honda says to leave the breakin oil in for about 4,000 miles. Subaru says to change the oil the first time at 1,000 -1,500 miles. Is it ok to switch to synthetics at this point? Any thoughs!
I have a 98 Maxima (95 prior to that). I use premuim exclusively but you can use a 89 octane if you wish. The knock sensor will permit the enigne to run fine, not sure of any long term damage. Less performance is what I understand will occur. You may also get slightly better mileage with the premium. Great engine, great car. My 95 and now 98 have never been to the dealer, defect free.
Switch at 1,000 or so and you will be fine. remember, some engines come with synthetic from the factory, the break in myth continues to be spread by uninformed service managers or front desk neophytes
I am curious what the participants think of both Castrol Syntec and 5W50 weight oil. I am able to get an oil change for $49.99 Canadian (cheap in Canada for a synthetic oil change). In reviewing the weight of oil to the temperature chart in my 1998 DC Caravan book, the 5W50 covers all temperature possibilities. My key question is, is the ..50 to thick of an oil once it is warm?
First of all, personal opnion, use a good synthetic. Castrol was brought to court by Mobil for claiming Syntec was a synthetic oil when it is not. Judge ruled in Castrol's favor indicating the use of the word synthetic means outside of the normal refining process. Syntec is a highly refined petroleum and not a true synthetic oil. In Canada I would use a 0W30 oil from either Mobil 1 or Amsoil.The 5W50 is a huge range, too high on the upper for new engines and huge aditives to give it that range. With cold climate a 0W30 is great year round.
Jamesk9, use the weight number your car manufacturer recomends. In most cases it's 5W30. In extremely cold climates - 0W30. 10W30 will provide the best oil stability and engine protection.
ditto ...i'd put my money on mobil1 or amsoil synthetic instead of castrol syntec. i use 10w30 in summer and 5w30 during winter ..just what the owners manual says ..inspite of the dealership technician saying that its safe to use 5w30 year round. i guess i'd rather trust the guy who wrote my manual instead of the technician.
I would be interested in reading more info stating that Syntec is not a fully synthetic oil. Where can I find it? Something current, not an article based on an old formulation of Syntec. I find it amusing that after years of bashing blended oils, Mobil now makes a synthetic blend. I also think that Synthetics do not require the high amount of viscosity index improvers to achieve a wide viscosity range. And with synthetics you don't need to be as concerned with high and low temps. Most 5w30 synthetics have Flash Points of 400-450 deg. F. and Pour points of -35 to -65 deg. F. Dennis
I tried 89 and it ran pretty well, although I felt a little roughness at stoplight and I didn't get as good gas mileage as I did with 93. I think I'll stay with the good stuff as it's only a few cents more expensive where I live and with the better fuel economy it doesn't really maek sense to use anything else.
I JUST LEFT OUR LOCAL TARGET STORE. TO MY SURPRISE, THEY WERE SELLING MOBIL 1 (ALL WEIGHTS) FOR $2.85. NEEDLESS TO SAY, I PICKED UP A FEW QUARTS. THIS WAS NOT A SALE ITEM. IF YOU HAVE A TARGET STORE NEARBY, IT MIGHT BE WORTH CHECKING. AT THIS PRICE, IT ONLY MAKES SINCE TO USE MOBIL 1.
Very informative article. The news stories I read in the past lead me to believe it was only the ads in question (instead of the formulation and the ads). Mobil 1 ads say "Nothing outperforms Mobil1". I wonder if Amsoil will try to sue them.
I've come across yet another "high performance" synthetic oil, Royal Purple, which I believe was also mentioned here a few posts back. Ths is the second rather "obscure" brand I've discovered which makes major claims over more popular and well known synthetics.
What is one to believe - the advertising budgets of the well-knowns (Mobil 1 and Amsoil) or the testimonialsand documented claimsms of the lesser knowns (Redline and Royal Purple)?
I got Mobil 1 at K-MART for $3.78 a quart. All grades were available. Not as good as Target it seems but, good enough for me. Will try Target next time. I don't believe Castrol are honest with their advertizing. When I was still researching what oil to use for my new car I considered Castrol Syntec blend. I looked on the container to see what percentage of synthetic was in the blend but found no information. On contacting Castrol I was told, "UP TO 10%." Well, UP TO 10% just isn't good enough for me. For all I know, they might only be putting in 1%. And then I read the article about Mobil taking Castrol to task about false advertizing. So from now on it's only Mobil 1 for me.
Is there any good/bad experience with the Valvoline full synthetic oil? Now, when, as I understand, BP sold ProCare to the Valvoline, and, I guess, they are using Valvoline brand. Is my understanding correct?
I wonder if anybody was able to purchase Mobil 1 at that price. Checked a couple of Target stores in my area. They've heard nothing about this sale. $2.85/qt. for Mobil 1 synthetic? Sounds too good to be true.
I live in Florida and went to Amsoil 5w30 in my Chevy Van 5.7 Ltr motor. I had always changed my "regular" oil at 3K. I put a new 350 in the van prior to taking a 9,200 mile trip to the NW pulling an 8,000 Lb travel trailer. After I had 3K miles on the breakin oil, I changed to Amsoil, pulled the camper 9,200 miles (this was this summer and includes major mountain pulls out west), changed the filter every 3K miles and didn't burn any oil. I sent the oil in for an analysis, and it came back fine, I changed it at 11K miles. I plan on going 12K under normal driving in Florida as I think the Syn oil (in this case Amsoil) proved itself.
But I'll bet you're not under warranty anymore? When I go off warranty, I'll consider going longer, but dealers have a way of screwing you. I'll wait...
#346 In your case, you are probably wise to do that; but consider this. In two vehicles I am familiar with, (there are many more) the MB E320 and the Chevy Corvette, both recommend intervals of 15k. In the case of the MB E320, the dealer guarantees periodic maint. And of course, the Corvette being a GM product, the buyer is on her own.
I go 3750 between oil changes per the manual.. Whatever the manual says, i'll do. Since MB uses M1, then yeah I'd do that, but for spedning so much $$$ on a MB, their service is better than Nissan's or Honda's. But after the warranty is over, I'll probably go to Schedule B which is every 7500 miles.
Outside of the fact that you are getting a superior lubricant, AND it is your money, why do you wish to increase your cost unnecessarily?
For the cycles you are talking about; the conventional oils will work just fine and you will only use up between half and 3/4 of the useable life, as opposed to synthetic which will have between 80% on up left.
Yes, my 350 is still under warranty, it has a 50,000 mile, 3 year warranty (I put in a new factory "crate" motor).
You need to do what you feel comfortable with, in my case, pulling the weight I do with my van, I felt the Syn oil offered added protection under that severe load/stress. I also use it in the rear diff (rebuilt 12 bolt w/3:73 and Posi), but I have stuck with regular trans oil since it has 120K on it, and it has performed perfect, and to keep it that way, I have installed 4 transmission coolers...runs around 170 degree's pulling the load.
Olegphil.... I have used Valvoline products for over 30 years and they have always exceeded my expectations. I used the Durablend before they came out with the full synthetic. BTW according to Popular Mechanics test, its about 15% synthetic... I now use the full synthetic and go 7,500 miles between oil / filter changes and have had no problems. Good luck.
Yesterday on my way home from work, I stopped at Target again to check the price of Mobil 1. The $2.85 a quart was there regular price. I'm starting to think that someone messed up (new stock person!) and mispriced the oil. Until they change the price, i'm going to be one of their best customers.
You'll find if you read back a ways in this topic that almost all of us posting here are partial to either Mobil 1 or Amsoil, with some going to the more exotic synthetic racing oils.
Personally, I'm using Mobil 1 in the engine with 7.5K changes until the warranty is out, and Redline 75W90 in the trans & diff.
The synthetics really minimize the normal wear and reduce heat buildup due to friction. These are you're main objectives with any lubricant.
However.....any good oil and filter, changed regularly within the applicable manufacturer's maintenance schedule, will protect the drivetrain. If you've the funds, stick with the best lubricant you can afford.
is there a website that has an UNBIASED comparison between various brands of synthetic oil? each and every mfg website i go to, they just go on and on about how superior their oil is over other brands.
I spent three hours in search today trying to find someplace I could walk into the Dallas area and buy Amsoil and a filter. Sure lots of Ma and Pa Kettle distributors by mail but why won't they tell you where the hell you can buy the damn stuff! I've pretty much decided on Mobil 1.... at least I know where to buy it!
i've decided to stick with mobil1 for the same reason. i live in canada and mobil does not sell its oil filters here ...just syn oil. bummer ! i tried ordering the filter through their e-store (www.mobil1.com) but they only ship within the U.S. i had to tell my brother (who lives in california) to buy it and fedex it to me.
Today K-Mart was advertizing Mobil 1 at $7 for 2 quarts. So that's $3.50 for a quart. Not bad at all. Weights were 5W30, 10W30, and 15W50. Mobil 1 oil filters are $1.00 off normal price.
I've a '00 SE Miata, and most people recommend staying with the OEM filter due to special valving internal to the filter can. I'd prefer to use a Mobil 1 filter along with the oil, but cannot seem to find a catalog which would state whether they even make one for the vehicle. I know that Purolator does not make the Pure One filter for the vehicle, only the Premium Plus.
Anyone know where to find a Mobil 1 catalog?
Also, I saw the K-Mart ad and purchased 5 qts - 4 for the upcoming change, and one for down the road when I have to change out that Premium Plus filter at 5K due to lack of a good Mobil 1 filter.
goto www.mobil1.com, select the e-store option, click on high efficiency oil filter and enter your make and model ...btw i checked and they dont have a filter listed for the '00 miata, so i checked for the 1999 model.
hope this helps
** nikecar ...tks for the info - although it's useful for comparisons between different oil filter brands, it still falls short in comparing different syn oils - all he says is that castrol and mobil1 are good. i was looking for a side-by-side comparison of mobil1, castrol, valvoline synpower, pennzoil etc using different characteristics.
Comments
I'm approaching 2.5K on mine and want to change the engine, tranny & diff oils over to synthetic.
Jim M.
While you would undoubtedly get a superior lubricant, your cost would go up 3-4 times. While I am one of the ones that go the 15,000 with absolutely no problems, in my mind at the 3750 cycle, you are consuming money at a faster rate without "bang for the buck".
API SJ 5W-30 for about $4.49/qt. More than
Mobil 1. Pennzoil spent 250 million to improve
their so called crappy sludge forming oils...They
developed this synthetic oil for NASA for use in
space. Hmmmm, I ve used their oils for many years
without any problems. Pennzoil says on the bottle
to change every 3,000 mi under severe conditions ie stop n go, short trips, high temp conditions...
They also have a reg mineral base oil with PUREBASE that maintains an almost clear oil compared to the others at the 3000 miles.
Just passing along some info I came accross on www
that may be of interest. I may prefer to go to
Mobil 1 for my first oil chg on my '00 Chevy
C2500 5.7L Vortec at the 3,000 mi mark. I intend
to keep this truck for rest of my life. Am
54 year old babyboomer. Still thinking about it.
I use Amsoil but Mobil 1 a great oil.
Also, a little off topic, the owner's manual says that I must use high octane gas, but I wonder if that is really necessary. I have to commute 120 miles round trip to work each day and would love to save a little by using the mid-grade gas. Can I do this without fear of damaging the car?
On your other question, you may want to use the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page for Maxima - you should find some Maxima topics in our Sedans conference where owners are hanging out who may have even already discussed this question.
Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I, for one would be curious as to your stats when you find out and care to post. My guess is that is is about as clean as a whistle AND probably 20-40% left on the oil use cycle. (in mileage terms 15-20k) By the way, I use 5w-30 Mobil 1 in all of mine.
Thanks in advance.
I appreciate all comments.
use the weight number your car manufacturer recomends.
In most cases it's 5W30.
In extremely cold climates - 0W30.
10W30 will provide the best oil stability and engine protection.
i use 10w30 in summer and 5w30 during winter ..just what the owners manual says ..inspite of the dealership technician saying that its safe to use 5w30 year round.
i guess i'd rather trust the guy who wrote my manual instead of the technician.
I find it amusing that after years of bashing blended oils, Mobil now makes a synthetic blend.
I also think that Synthetics do not require the high amount of viscosity index improvers to achieve a wide viscosity range. And with synthetics you don't need to be as concerned with high and low temps. Most 5w30 synthetics have Flash Points of 400-450 deg. F. and Pour points of -35 to -65 deg. F.
Dennis
DAVE
Mobil 1 ads say "Nothing outperforms Mobil1". I wonder if Amsoil will try to sue them.
Dave, thanks for the tip and stop shouting ;-).
Dennis
What is one to believe - the advertising budgets of the well-knowns (Mobil 1 and Amsoil) or the testimonialsand documented claimsms of the lesser knowns (Redline and Royal Purple)?
Jim M.
http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm
$2.85/qt. for Mobil 1 synthetic?
Sounds too good to be true.
John
In your case, you are probably wise to do that; but consider this.
In two vehicles I am familiar with, (there are many more) the MB E320 and the Chevy Corvette, both recommend intervals of 15k. In the case of the MB E320, the dealer guarantees periodic maint. And of course, the Corvette being a GM product, the buyer is on her own.
For the cycles you are talking about; the conventional oils will work just fine and you will only use up between half and 3/4 of the useable life, as opposed to synthetic which will have between 80% on up left.
You need to do what you feel comfortable with, in my case, pulling the weight I do with my van, I felt the Syn oil offered added protection under that severe load/stress. I also use it in the rear diff (rebuilt 12 bolt w/3:73 and Posi), but I have stuck with regular trans oil since it has 120K on it, and it has performed perfect, and to keep it that way, I have installed 4 transmission coolers...runs around 170 degree's pulling the load.
John
Best price I can find is at Discount Auto Parts for $4.39.
Rbink1 - I'd buy a couple of cases.......
Jim M.
What you guys think. That oil okay?
Should I switch to full syn. oil or stay with Quaker State 4x4?
I'm not real hard on my truck and the temp. here rarely gets to 0 degrees. Usual cold weather temp. is 20 degree (usually coldest).
Thanks for info....in advance.
John
You'll find if you read back a ways in this topic that almost all of us posting here are partial to either Mobil 1 or Amsoil, with some going to the more exotic synthetic racing oils.
Personally, I'm using Mobil 1 in the engine with 7.5K changes until the warranty is out, and Redline 75W90 in the trans & diff.
The synthetics really minimize the normal wear and reduce heat buildup due to friction. These are you're main objectives with any lubricant.
However.....any good oil and filter, changed regularly within the applicable manufacturer's maintenance schedule, will protect the drivetrain. If you've the funds, stick with the best lubricant you can afford.
Jim M.
Plus, Miami is more expensive anyways... even toilet paper probably cost $5 a roll.. kidding.
tks in advance !
i live in canada and mobil does not sell its oil filters here ...just syn oil. bummer !
i tried ordering the filter through their e-store (www.mobil1.com) but they only ship within the U.S.
i had to tell my brother (who lives in california) to buy it and fedex it to me.
sniffy: try http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oil.html
and http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html for filters.
Anyone know where to find a Mobil 1 catalog?
Also, I saw the K-Mart ad and purchased 5 qts - 4 for the upcoming change, and one for down the road when I have to change out that Premium Plus filter at 5K due to lack of a good Mobil 1 filter.
Jim M.
goto www.mobil1.com, select the e-store option, click on high efficiency oil filter and enter your make and model ...btw i checked and they dont have a filter listed for the '00 miata, so i checked for the 1999 model.
hope this helps
** nikecar ...tks for the info - although it's useful for comparisons between different oil filter brands, it still falls short in comparing different syn oils - all he says is that castrol and mobil1 are good.
i was looking for a side-by-side comparison of mobil1, castrol, valvoline synpower, pennzoil etc using different characteristics.
tks anyway !