Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Chrysler Town and Country EX/LX/LXi/Limited
This discussion has been closed.
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
TIA
My 2002 T&C LX had a 7 year/100k mile powertrain warranty which was transferrable to the 2nd owner because the original owner purchased the DaimlerChrysler "Added Care" 7 year/75k mile extended warranty.
Does anyone make a kit for this? If not, what type of connections does the VCR use to connect to the rest of the system?
Any info on making the switch would be appeciated.
DRW170
Does anyone make a kit for this? If not, what type of connections does the VCR use to connect to the rest of the system?
Any info on making the switch would be appeciated.
DRW170
I had similar problems with my 2003 Limited after I jumped a low battery, even though I had run it down and jumped it many time before. My twist is that before I found this solution I pulled the battery cable for a couple of minutes. When I hooked it back up, the entire gauge cluster was dead as well as pretty much everything else except the radio! Additionally, the gauge cluster was emitting a continuous beep. I unhooked the battery again and this time everything came back except the alarm system and the beep was still there. I did the trip odometer reset (have to hold it in for about 10 seconds) and the speedo and tach reset to normal. But after a couple of minutes everything went dead again, still with the beeping. I pulled the battery cable for about 10 minutes this time and everything came back working. Thanks again for the fix.
Can't say that I've ever heard anybody refer to a nine year old car as a "lemon". That having been said, a car of that age with "only" 70K miles on it should have lots of life left in IF it has been properly maintained. When I say "lots of life" I mean it. I'm in contact with a number of owners of these vans and several have north of 200,000 miles, one has 370,000 (although he did replace his engine at 360,000). Looked at it that way, my 1998 with "only" 114,000 is a relative baby, and yours is even younger (at least from a mileage perspective).
So, my advice is to find a good conscientious mechanic, have it gone through and drive it for as long as you can. FWIW, bushings aren't the greatest in these vans, however, they are fairly inexpensive to replace.
Best Regards,
Shipo
It is coming from the air conditioner. Also need advice on how to change air conditioner filter. Have tried what it says in manuel but cannot find lock or switch under dash. Thanks for any help.
Rod9
Let me ask you this, if you pick up a crack in your windshield from a rock that has been kicked up, do you blame the manufacturer of the vehicle? No, you submit this to your insurance company under your comprehensive insurance policy, and the same should apply to your condenser. Call your insurance company and ask.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Two days later it stopped blowing cold air again. The dealer again could find no problem. I took it to my independent dealer and they found a leak and repaired it. A month later it is now intermittent in cooling. I have noticed no water leaking into the floor board on on the ground and no vapor out of the vents. The dealer and independent shop say they can find no problem. However, it cools only about 40% of the time the front a/c is on. The rear a/c works fine and drains fine out of the drain in the right rear.
Anyone have any thoughts?
Thanks
I went to the dealer, who first suspected a faulty KAM or CAM sensor. I didn't get a quick fix, in fact I missed my car appointment because it wouldn't start. It is linked to locking, I suspect, esp. if my 5 year old is playing with buttons beforehand. But, what a pain, to attempt to start and it shuts itself off...knowing that after three attempts, I am stuck...I wonder if after the first failing, if I reinsert my key in the door lock (manually) from the outside, it will correct itself. The dealer seemed stumpted...but didn't fail to charge me $88.00 to look at it and test sensors, I suspect. I,too, want answers.
Hi,
Maybe somebody can help me here
1998 T&C LX AWD
AC does not work when push AC button (button lights up but air temp same as outside air)
AC works when turn the knob to windshield defrost (but of course air is blowing onto windshield).
Any ideas?
Thank you kindly~~~
My last two experiences with this, it was 14 hours before starts. Its happen now about twice a week, I don't have a remote. All fuses good and starter.
I checked on the idea about the sentry key imm-system, its only for 2001 and up.
Help?
[1] Is it the same as any 5W-30 grade oil?
[2] Where is the best place to get it?
Thanks in advance.
Best Regards,
Shipo
"Expect to see 25-30% drop in fuel mileage when using E85, that is, if you are getting 21 mpg, expect 15 mpg.
Go to www.fueleconomy.gov and then click on the side-by-side for a camparison of gas and E85 mileage."
"Be careful when changing to E-85 flex fuel. On page 274 of the 2002 grand caravan owners manual with the 3.3 engine it say's."if you operate the vehicle on E-85 either full or part time use onlyMopar Flexible Fule 5W-30 engine oil or its equivalent. This is in a highlighted box on page 275 of the owners manual."if flexible fuel engine oil is not used when using e-85,engine wear may be increased significanty. This may void your warranty". Allso it says with e-85 in real cold weather it will be harder starting. I have a 3.3 2002 caravan but I'm not going to use it"
Although the part about having to use Mopar oil is no longer true, the potential for more engine wear and maintenance is real. With the drastically decreased MPG, E85 would have to sell at least $1.00 per gallon cheaper before I would consider it.