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- If you need to ask how fast the Town Car will go, you don't want one and shouldn't be driving one.
- If you're concern is for it being 'slower' than the Cadillac, it is. Does it accelerate and pass easily in all terrain, and easily come up to freeway speeds under all loads? Yes. Can any 16 year-old whomp [non-permissible content removed] on any car with a $750 used motorcycle in any acceleration contest? Yes. I don't think there is any car costing over $30k that can be called a "gutless wonder", save perhaps a diesel powered one.
- The DeVille is an extremely nice car. It has night vision, 3-area-climate control, Nav System, Tire pressure monitor, "Road Sensing Suspension", Stabilitrak, lumbar massagers, lumbar supports in the rear seats, radar parking assistance and 275 HP.
- I bought the Town Car over the DeVille (I drove both for a few hundred miles) because the TC DOESN'T have all those extra gimmicks. The only one I would consider having would be the lumbar massager. I didn't find any of the others useful at all after the initial "oh my!" response. The Nav System, Night Vision, 3-area climate are VERY useless, IMHO.
- The Town Car has the one true luxury that no other car can touch - real estate. It is larger and more roomy, especially if you ever carry passengers, than any other car - American, German, Japanese; only the Rolls comes close to matching the comfort in terms of room to move and relax on a long trip.
- The TC being RWD behaves much better and feels better at the wheel than the FWD Cad. The Cad has much more body roll, and the suspension is not nearly as firm when needed.
- Some quirks in the TC that you won't understand unless you READ THE OWNER's HANDBOOK (if you don't have one, go buy one from the dealer):
1. The seats need to be adjusted in order to be comfortable. What your 13-year-old finds comfortable, is not necessarily what you will find comfy.
2. The operation of the radio/stereo. There are LOTS of settings that can make the volume, display, sound quality, and lots of other things seem peculiar, or truly enhance the sound. READ THE MANUAL!
3. Time delays, as mentioned in the posts above. Interior lights dim and stay lit on a delayed basis. The headlights can be set to stay on after you leave IF IT IS SUFFICIENTLY DARK! The timer won't kick on unless it is really dark.
4. Program the keypad entry feature. It's great, and can be a lifesaver if you lock your keys in.
5. Program the seat memory to your remote entry unit. See the manual - it works very well, and is darned handy when you share the car from time to time with a second driver.
Is the TC worth the $15k difference from the Crown Vic/Grand Marq? Depends on whether you have the $15k or not. The CV/GM is probably the best automotive bargain available, bar none, today. A better question to ask is whether a BMW or MB is worth the $30k more? That is an EASY question to answer.
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And please stop cluttering up my inbox with 6 of your emails. I discuss cars on Edmunds, not in my email.
Have similar problem on my 94" TC Signature. Did you get resolution? Please respond.
I have a V6 LS and have yet to go over 100... there simply isn't a good place here in the country area in PA.... too many hills/trees/turns/deer/police.
Thanks for your comments!
http://jwfisher.home.texas.net/default.htm
It is what happens when one HECK of a bolt of Lightning hits a car and melts it. I couldn't believe the damage this thing sustained!
They finally got the moonroof they have been wanting for years. They are unable to use the moonroof due to the extremely bad 'buffetting'. Does anyone have a solution?
The trunk is difficult to shut, requiring a hard slam. Gone are the 'auto closers' as in their previous models? Is this an option they might have overlooked?
After several, frustrating visits to the dealership garage, we are unable to determine the cause of a very obvious pull to the left? One mechanic actually went so far as to adjust the steering wheel(?)... we took it back the next day to put it back where it belongs. They are lucky we have had a sense of humor about this whole situation.
Things are mounting to the point that they want to trade towards a Grand Marquis. It has always been 'a Towncar or nothing' mentality.... well, no longer. In fact, I would not be surprised if they experiment with a Cadillac next time.
I'm asking if there is anyone (other than our local dealer) whom we can get some 'service' from. Everything has been under warranty so money is not the issue, it is the inconvenience.
Oh, I almost forgot to mention the front brake dust issue, the inadequate front cup holders and the continuous squeaky rear brakes. We've been told 'this is a normal occurence for some Lincolns'.......where do we go from here????
Please, if you have advice, e-mail me at 'ru2going2@yahoo.com' and I will advise my folks.
1. The moonroof. The deflector appears to be misadjusted. I believe there is a service bulletin available at the dealer's instructing how to do this correctly.
2. The steering. Not normal, or acceptable. Something must be very wrong. Clearly any competent shop should be able to clear this up. UNLESS the pull only occurs on a road with a severe crown. Even if its a defective tire, they should be able to pinpoint and fix quickly.
3. Ditto the brakes. There is no reason for a squeak anywhere. It is possible they got glazed by improper break-in, but a good service person can tell the driver what to do, and what not to do (NEVER drive with the left foot on the brake, etc.)
The trunk on every 1998-2000 TC I have driven is a two finger closer. It has an adjustment point. I found the old power closer to be of little or no use.
Has this car been in a wreck? How many miles?
Short answer: even if you have to drive an hour, find a better Lincoln dealer. They will probably even pick up the cost to travel, and offer a rental. All these problems are easily solvable. (Except front brake dust. NO car can avoid that)
Thanks
Any suggestions appreciated! Sensor related? Computer? Fuel Pump? Help!!!
If you don't hear the pump. Have someone else turn the key on, and get your ear as close to the gas tank (without getting under the car) as you can. (A quiet area works best...not near a highway.)
When is ford ever gonna learn? They took a perfectly good 3.8 liter v-6, and let the bean counters mess it up putting cheap head gaskets on. Now they're doing the same with the 4.6 and cheap intakes! Ford needs to can some beans, IMHO!
I haven't been able to find a reference(instructions) anywhere. Also, does anyone know how the ABS sensors operate on '95 T/C's? Is it a DIY fix? Thanks in advance._
If you don't have an owner's manual for your car, go get one. It explains a lot of things you absolutely need to know, especially about the radio/stereo, seats, computer, engine operation, air system, etc.
I wouldn't touch the ABS system on any TC unless equipped with several factory service tools and manuals, and I've built complete autos from the ground up. It is not a DIY fix.
Typically this class of automobile is a poor selection on the used market if you're looking for bang-for-the-buck. They are complex automobiles, with lots of accessories. Even the accessories are more complex in nature than less expensive cars. For example, the air conditioning systems are more complex in their operation than air conditioning on lesser cars. More complexity = higher repair cost due to parts availability, etc.
If you're not concerned with fully functioning accessories like trip computers, temp control systems, etc. Then the foundation of the Lincoln is as durable as a pickup truck. It is as close to bulletproof as a sedan is going to get.
I would expect an 83k mi. Town Car to be needing new fluids everywhere, all new rubber and vinyl hoses everywhere, and I'd closely inspect the brake system, cooling system, and fuel system.
Depending upon the previous owner and available maintenance records, $7,800 for a 7 year-old TC is a bit steep. It better have a very good interior, and excellent records, new tires, etc. There are quite a few used TC's of lower trim line available. I'd be cautious.
Is this engine in need of overhauling or should I just keep putting in oil every other tank. Will it damage the valves or valvetrain components by burning this much oil? Runs fine, gets 22MPG highway, less in the winter. Would trying the slick50 stuff hurt anything? Thanks for any input.