Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
SorryI realize i am not fluent in english. So, please accept my apology for this
when the car is cold, it does not start up. it started happening four days ago. at the early begining, it took 4 minutes to started it up. in the next day, it took 15 minutes. yesterday, it took one hour. After starting the car, it does not like to be in a good condition. I mean it like to off agin till it becomes very worm. After worming the car, it run very fine. one time, I was runing with the car, suddenly it stoped. The computer scane indicated that a sensor that is not good. I am not sure about the name of the sensor. I started thinging of the starter relay. I changed but with no result. then, I though it might be the sensor. I , cleaned it. also, with no result. Also, i though of fuel pump. But I think it works fine because I can hear the voice of fuel pump when I turn it on.
SorryI realize i am not fluent in english. So, please accept my apology for this
when the car is cold, it does not start up. it started happening four days ago. at the early begining, it took 4 minutes to started it up. in the next day, it took 15 minutes. yesterday, it took one hour. After starting the car, it does not like to be in a good condition. I mean it like to off agin till it becomes very worm. After worming the car, it run very fine. one time, I was runing with the car, suddenly it stoped. The computer scane indicated that a sensor that is not good. I am not sure about the name of the sensor. I started thinging of the starter relay. I changed but with no result. then, I though it might be the sensor. I , cleaned it. also, with no result. Also, i though of fuel pump. But I think it works fine because I can hear the voice of fuel pump when I turn it on.
thanks,
sameh
Sure, I need to keep the car till tommorow morning. then we can see what is up again. I hope this the end. Again, thanks very much for your support and help.
Sameh
to-day morinig it started but after 7-8 trials of cranking. i left it till it became worm. then to give a rid for my children. for a certain reason, it sudenly stoped when it was runing while i made a left turn and my foot was on the brake pedal. . I forget to inform you that i also changed the oil and oil filter besides the EGR vacum senolid. what sort of problem do you think i have now. till now I did not use the Lucas oil stabilizer yet. Thanks for your help.
sameh
oh and your car would be under the 1st generation index.
Might I suggest to take it to a dealer and have then check it out. In the long and short of it will save you time and money.
Have you checked to see if there are any codes showing? That would say a lot if it is.
farout
Thanks for your advise. I got your advise. I towed the car to a mecahnic. Probably today he will tell me what is wrong with the car. I will let you know as soon as I get a response.
After changing the EGR vacum, the light "check engin" became off. Also, I showed me no error codes in two different places "autozone and a mechanic".
Again, Thanks very much for your support.
Sameh
The problem might be sorted out now. I was the speed sendor. This senor was faulty and confilict with cam and crank sensors. that is why it was not starting. the error code did not show up till the car became cold. the code is p0320. I wish this would be a good for anybody have the same problem.
Thanks for your supprot.
Sameh
Fast forward 4K miles. At 59K my engine light went on. I went in, and they told me I needed transmission work. Still covered under Powertrain, so that was cool.
After having it for a few hours, they told me that the engine air cleaner was hosed. It was cracked and couldn't even be tightened down. Fine, replace it. New air cleaner, transmission seals fixed.
I've had my car back for a week now. It feels like it's shifting harder, and not at points that it used to. I'm having a _really_ hard time finding info on when my (automatic trans) car should be shifting.
It doesn't seem to be shifting based on RPM. Shifts into 2nd at about 12 mph, shifts into 3rd about 35, shifts into 4th about 42. Can that be right? It feels _awfully_ strange.
Even weirder on the highway. Shifts into 3rd about 40 mph and 4th about 43 mph. Huh? Also, between 60-70 mph, I feel little jumps/kicks. Kinda feels like when there's a moderate wind that moves your car a bit. Just feels.... not right.
My fuel economy has even gone done. Before engine light came on, and with my busted air cleaner, I was getting about 250-260 miles a tank. Now I'm getting about 230-240.
Any ideas? Sorry this was kinda long. I'm not a car guy (yet), so I did my best to explain the situation. If anybody can help, or needs more information, that'd be fantastic! Oh yeah, a friend pointed me at Chilton manuals, but there's so many. I'm a little lost.
Dave
Good luck and I know what you mean one darn thing after another...
I am haivng the same problem with my neon. I have been told that it is the throttle cable sticking. Hence I got carburater cleaner and sprayed the whole cable of what I coud get . It did Not help. With the gas prices this bites big time. I hope some has the correct answer . It might be that we have to replace the cable it self.
Angie :sick:
I think I might have the same problem as you. I have a 1998 Dodge Neon and the instrument panel has gone haywire. Door ajar light flickers, speedometer does not work, interior light is always on, etc... Problem is intermittent.
I have hear that this problem is due to cold solders on a circuit board behind the dash. Does this sound like what you had? If so can you provide me with the contact information Seller: in_the_country( 166). So I can try the same thing you tried?
Thanks in advance for your help.
This '95 Neon now has 242,000 miles.
A/C compressor died late 2001 after we had purchased an '01 Durango AWD SLT and I was driving the Neon for work commute (86 miles round trip daily). Got the non-A/C sized belt to run just the power steering pump didn't care about spending money on the compressor as the rest of the system had leaks.
At about 165,000 I replaced clutch,clutch cable, manual transmission fluid, cv axles, timing belt, engine seal on timing belt side, exhaust system, catalytic convertor - sometime in 2004- 2005. Finally got instrument cluster with tach around then too!
Soon to be ex-wife signed title on the Neon over to me in 2005- she got the house and I got the Neon (plus my Dakota, tools, a couple of motorcycles, etc).
Until recently I was getting 35-39 mpg mixed highway/local with 89 octane until engine developed miss- was still was getting 27-29 mpg though. Took it to independent garage which flushed #1 cylinder and said maybe also air pump- engine maybe too worn they said also. It does run better now though. Have been checking Neons.org for solution also.
Regards,
econobiker
I just got the speed control working and the over flow tank repkaced to correct over heating. Did the work myself and it was a real job.
farout
Our 1996 Dogdge Neon Highline has 197,400 miles on it and runs good even today. I have most every record of everything that has been done. We bought it new Oct. 11. 1995, so I have had most all the common and uncommon things happen you could want or not want to happen to it.
The problem might possibly be a cam sensor as well. But the dealer could tell you real quick and save you some mony to boot.
Under the extended warranty be bought when we bought the Neon that went to 5 years 100,00 miles. We paid about $1,200. for the warrnty and believe it or not the warranty from Chrysler spent as much fixing problems in the first 100,000 miles as we paid for the car! So I am a firm believer of extended warranties. The last 97,000+ miles have been reasonable in repairs and what you would expect for a older Neon. Hope this helps a little.
farout
At least one of the many reed switches sticks closed intermittently, shorting the entire sensor closed; hence, the engine control computer thinks the vehicle is at rest.
this is something that a dealer or professional mechanic will have to fix. the tools are very hard to come buy and only a dealer or professional mechanic will have them.
good luck
What car/model would you replace your '96 Neon with when it finally dies, or do you think it may go to 300,000, in which case it's too early to even think about a replacement?
We have a 2007 Chrysler Pacifica Touring AWD and we really are pleased with it so we really are not in a rush to get the Neon fixed.
farout
Does anyone know why the fuses may be blowing? My husband has already checked the heating coil, and the fuse did not blow when the wire to the solenoid was disconnected.
Would appreciate any replies or suggestions!
Thanks
also it doesnt like to start very well in the cold unless ive been dumping stuff in the gas to make it start cold. but once ive run out it will sit in the cold for 3 hrs and not want to stay running. any mods i could do to fix it without constantly having to dump [non-permissible content removed] in my tank?
instument cluster/ speedometer stops working all the time..it will either just not work or it will die when im driving..it will eventually come back but not without it jumping up and falling down a couple times. had sensor fixed and a wire reattached when it didnt work at all right after i bought the car now it does this. also all the guages freeze every once in a while. solution anyone?