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As far as automotive evolution goes, I think Chrysler could have offered the new 300/300C way back in 1990, as a replacement for the Gran Fury/Diplomat/5th Avenue, and it wouldn't have looked the least bit out of place. It's almost as if, with the 300, that they've completely erased the evolution of Mopar styling that was laid by the Dynasty and all its clones and both iterations of the LH car.
And you're right, the 300 doesn't have as much trunk space as the Intrepid. From figures I've read, the Intrepid has 18.4 cubic feet, while the 300 only has 15.6. I've had a few cars with about that much trunk space, like my '89 Gran Fury (15.6), '80 Malibu, '82 Cutlass Supreme, and '86 Monte Carlo (about 16.1) and a '68 and '69 Dart (about 17-18...wide and long, but really shallow...forget about putting a tall cooler back there!)
I guess overall, when you figure the 300 is about 6-7" shorter than the Intrepid and RWD, which is going to eat up some space, maybe it's not TOO bad of a trunk size. But it's definitely what I'd consider a midsized trunk, whereas the Intrepid is closer to full-sized. Although with some of the cars I've had, a true full-size trunk to me is 20+ cubic feet!
And yeah, something that looks like an Intrepid, but with a Hemi, would be way coo! 8-)
So it was parked at a store last week and a neighbor, who we vaguely know, has backed into it. She waited until I came back, and there were witnesses. The dent is about as big as your hand, but because it covers multiple body panels and plastic pieces, the two body guys say it would be about $1500 to fix, based on $39/hour labor. I think that's a fair estimate.
The lady wants to settle out of pocket, without involving the insurance companies. Money IS an issue for this person. I could personally touch up the paint, and maybe get a plastic piece from a junk yard for $100, but it would still look crummy. Trouble is, I have to see this person quite a lot, and I'd never be able to repair the damage on my own so that it doesn't show. To make it dissappear, it would cost every bit of the $1500. This is a very small town, so nothing is hidden.
Any advice? How much longer will the Intrepid last? Do you put $1500 into a car that Edmunds says is worth $2120-2825, based on the miles? Rather than deal with the problem directly, I'm tempted to just take the money, but use it plus the car to trade for something else that's lower miles. I would be really interested to see what you neutral bystanders would have to say about the situation.
Here is what I would do, given the situation. The neighbor is responsible for the damage that she caused, and is making her own decision about whether to turn it into her insurance company. Of course, you have to go along with her on that, and it is a nice thing that you have agreed to that. It is possible that an insurance company would call your Intrepid a total loss given its current low value and the amount it would take to fix it right.
Why don't you get some real estimates of the cost of a first class repair and present those to your neighbor? Now, if you really wanted to be nice, and the money is a real issue for her, make the repairs yourself, get her to agree to pay you $100 per month. You bank that money, and in a year and a half, get rid of the Intrepid and buy a lower mileage one.
In addition to the Intrepid, I drive an old minivan that has been dented numerous times by family and friends. It is great to say "who cares" and say that such a dent just adds character and keep driving it.
About how long it will last, who knows? The engine is certainly suspect given the high mileage (is it a 2.7 or 3.2?). Just about any component could go out at any time, but all could last another 50 to 100,000.
My two cents.
Well, my 1986 Monte Carlo, with 192,000 miles on it, had a book value of around $2200-2300 when I got t-boned. Insurance company estimated $1500 to fix it, so they just totaled it. I paid about $150 to keep the wreckage, and ended up selling it for parts.
Now my Monte really wasn't driveable anymore. The hit knocked the front-end severely out of alignment, and smashed the right side fender, door, and quarter panel. Bent the A-pillar just enough to crack the windshield, and buckled the floor pan just a little. I'm sure it would've really been more than $1500 to fix!
Honestly, you're not going to get much of a tradein on a car like that, regardless of condtion. Edmunds might say it's worth $2100 or so, but it's a safe bet that if you trade it in, you'll only get like $500-1000. Put $1500 into it and you'll still only get about the same in trade.
I'd let the insurance company total it out, but then hang onto it. That way, you'll get the book value of the car (NOT the tradein value...you probably WOULD get about $2000-2100 from the ins company).
If it's still driveable, I'd say drive it till it drops, pocket the money, and don't worry about the bodywork.
1.Altho I have maintained it well, it is almost time for the second transmission oil change and flushing of the power steering fluid...do they request maintenance records when you turn the car in, so as to prove that you maintained it, or do they just take a chance???...if they do take a chance, how would they know if you ever changed the oil at all???
2. Should I perform the tranny and power steering fluid change, even if it gets returned to them in a few months?
3. There is a small star from a rock in the front windshield...should I call out one of those windshield repair services or turn it in as-is?
4. Lastly, there is a 3 inch dent in my hood from someone's bumper backing into me...should I pay to repair it now, or turn it in with the dent and let them repair it...is a small 3 inch dent in five years classified as normal wear and tear, as few cars last 5 years without any dents or dings...
Thanks for your help.
Bob
my experience in returning two different leased vehicles is that they basically check all the fluid levels...start the car to make sure it runs...look it over for wear and tear. check tire tread.
they might be able to ding you on the dent (no pun intended)...that might be above what is considered normal. otherwise if i were you i wouldn't perform the maintenance stuff excepting maybe an oil change if that's needed. as for the window...if it's just a small star your insurance company would probably fix that without charging you the deductible.
and no they've never required me to show maintenance records.
btw, if you plan to trade for another chrysler they might even let you do it before your lease is up...without penalty.
I have a Dodge Intrepid ES ’99 – 3.2L. The car has close to 60,000 and runs perfectly. I called the dodge service and they tolled be that at this mileage I should change the timing belt and the water pump (total of $1,000). I don’t know what to do, should I go ahead and change it or can I wait?
I have a Dodge Intrepid ES ’99 – 3.2L. The car has close to 60,000 and runs perfectly. I called the dodge service and they tolled be that at this mileage I should change the timing belt and the water pump (total of $1,000). I don’t know what to do, should I go ahead and change it or can I wait? thanx Mark
Oh yeah, on another front, my '00 Trep hit the 94,000 mile mark this weekend, on its way to the all Mopar Nationals in Carlisle PA. It made the trip up and back, plus assorted running around and junk, with no issues at all.
However, still enjoying the Intrepid.
That's what I get for having regular oil changes (averages out to about every 4,500 miles over a 5 year period.
It was purely my fault though...the first time I changed the oil, I used a 1/2 socket that sort of fit, but I found out once I got it off that it was actually a 13mm, which is just a little bit bigger. Anyway, it deformed the bolt head to where a 13mm or 1/2 would take it off, but finally got to the point that it wouldn't come off.
Somehow, I got it on way too tight, and actually broke a socket trying to get it loose! Used a better socket, and it tore up the bolt head so bad that I had to give up and drive it down to the repair shop and have them get it out. That little stunt cost me about $55.00.
The guys at the garage misunderstood me at first, thinking I had actually stripped the pan, and not the head on the drain plug. They told me that stripping the pan is actually a fairly common problem. In fact, at that time, they had another Trep in the shop because Jiffy Lube had stripped it. Jiffy Lube was at least admitting responsbility though, and picking up the tab for that one.
Still, I guess with all the fighting I did with this drain plug, it's a miracle I didn't strip something! Nowadays, I make sure I'm VERY careful when I change my oil, and keep a 13mm wrench with the car at all times!
Bob
I've never driven a 3.4, but have driven an '01 Malibu that had the 3.1, which is the same basic engine. From 0-60 it felt quicker than my Intrepid, but at higher speeds, the Trep just seemed to breathe better and was more responsive. The 3.1 was noisier though.
In the long run, I don't know if a Monte Carlo would be better than an Intrepid or not. GM's automatic trannies are supposed to be some of the best nowadays, whereas Chrysler still has that stigma attached to the old UltraDrive. The 3.8 V-6 is supposed to be an excellent engine, but has been plagued with intake manifold leakes. The 3.4 tends to have them as well. And I also believe the 2.8/3.1/3.4 block is prone to head gasket failures.
As for depreciation, I think a Monte or Impala would still be bad, but concur that an Intrepid would still be worse. Plus, since the Intrepid and Concorde/300M are out of production, I think that'll hurt resale as well.
I know looks are subjective, but I think the current Monte Carlo is the ugliest car to ever wear that nameplate!! ;-) I used to have an '86 Monte though, so I'm a bit jaded on the subject!
Even my 89 TBird had a 3.8L engine (but not 24 valve). AS far as looks are concerned, it could use some refinement, especially the headlamps, but it had that classic look which I like. Plus, being a two door, I could probably stuff my Searslawnmower in the front seat (complete in box)like I did with my TBird...try that with a four door Intrepid! Plus the trunk opening was much wider. However, the Trep was a clear winner as far as back seat legroom was concerned. All in all, maybe I s/h researched the Monte Carlo better before I bought the Trep.
I also had a Buick Century for a few days. Not impressed at all, except for the fact that the car was practically brand new with 1400 miles on the clock. But it made it to the top of the Haleakala volcano, 10023 feet high, as I watched the sun rise above the clouds!
My question is: when did Chrysler start the 7 year/70000 miles powertrain warranty? Does this 01 Intrepid has it? It is tansferrable?
Thanks!
Back in September, I thought about trading in my '00 Intrepid on an '02 Intrepid R/T I'd found, with about 35,000 miles on it. The salesman told me that not all '02's had the 7/70 warranty, and unfortunately kept evading the point whenever I'd bring it up. So I ended up evading, when it came to buying the car!
I think the 2001 still only has the 3/36K bumper to bumper, and depending on the date the car was originally put into service, it could be out of warranty completely at this point.
At 14,000 miles I am going to switch to Mobil One as I still have concerns about the engine. Maybe I can get 200K miles out of the engine?!
Now it hasn't been a perfect car. At 35,000 miles I had to have the power lock actuator in the driver's door fixed, but that was under warranty. Somewhere in the low 40,000 range, the power mirror on the passenger side quit working, but I can still push it into the position I need it, so I didn't bother with it. Plus, I've driven mainly older cars in the past, where just to have a passenger side mirror was an option, so that mirror really isn't critical to me. Also around that time, I noticed the door seals were starting to shrink up.
Also around 40,000 the brake rotors up front started to show the slightest signs of warping...but I'm still on those same rotors. It's at the point now it's just a minor annoyance, but if it gets any worse I'll get them replaced.
Around 51,000 miles, I had to have the thermostat housing replaced because it was leaking. That was a pisser, around $210. Nowadays that's not a very big repair bill I guess, but in my mind, I guess I was thinking back to when a thermostat housing broke on my old Dodge Dart slant six. Took maybe a half hour to replace doing it myself, and the part was maybe 5 bucks from the junkyard.
Things were pretty uneventful from then on out, until last September. Around the 86,000 mile mark, my oil pressure light started coming on, but would only do it when fully warmed up, and at idle, like when the rpms dropped to around 500. Putting it in neutral while stopped at a light would usually make it go away. It had to go back to the dealer 3 times for them to fix that. Turns out there was a TSB on it...there's a part where the wiring runs through that gets too hot, giving a false reading, so they have to install some kind of vent to release the heat.
Maintenance-wise, I've rotated the tires about every 9,000 miles, had the tranny serviced every 30,000, had one alignment, around 62K I think, new spark plugs at 51K, and new hoses and a coolant flush at 86K.
I finally replaced the one rear door seal that shrunk the most, somewhere in the lower 80K range. Once I figured out how to do it, I just popped the other three loose and re-positioned them so that they sealed better.
As for brakes, I put on new front pads at 39,000 and 69,000, and had rears put on at 51,000. I did run throught the OEM Goodyear Eagle GA's at around 30,000 miles, though. The second set, some cheap Continentals, made it up through about 76,000. They would have gone further, but by that time, one tire had a slow leak in it, another had two patches, and a third was worn from when the car went out of alignment. So it was time!
Overall, it hasn't been a perfect car, but it's never left me stranded. And has never pissed me off enough to swear off Chrysler. In fact, this past weekend, I went on a trip from DC to Harrisburg, and then over to Macungie PA (kinda near Philly, I think) for a car show. Round trip it probably ended up being around 370 miles, and at speeds up to 90 mph. Once upon a time, most people would probably have been scared to do that with a car with this many miles on it, but today I wouldn't think twice about it.
And yeah, the 2.7 is the same engine that's used in the Stratus sedan and Sebring sedan and convertible. It's also still used in the base version of the 300 and Magnum, although it's been re-cammed and the intake has been massaged to give it a broader torque curve. Same peak torque, but more of it's available over a broader rpm range. I think peak hp did drop, from 200 to 190, but overall performance is better. Or would be, if the 300/Magnum weren't so much heavier!
Mike372 does bring up some good points about depreciation. However, since it's now a discontinued model, you should be able to get a really good deal on one, which will help offset the depreciation. And if you're the type that holds onto your cars for awhile, and doesn't trade every year or two, depreciation shouldn't be too big of a deal.
Good luck!
Well........back to trying to figure out the check engine lite in my girlfriend's Civic. Even Hondas are not perfect?!
There's also a $500 customer bonus cash to active military/reserve personnel and their immediate families living in the same household, but you have to finance through Chrysler.
They're not listing any low-APR financing, but I think you could probably get about 3.5-4% nowadays through just about any credit union.
http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?article=7472&sid=17- 3&n=156