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Re: Edmunds Members - Cars and Conversations
I believe, karhill, you could have made your point about socialism and socialized medicine in other countries without condemning those who may believe the current POTUS is remotely qualified to hold the position. This is an example of posting opinions that are political on this “auto” site which you alluded to in your opening comments.karhill1 said:While political matters probably do not belong on a website for autos, I feel compelled to weigh in. When dealing with hard nose conservatives, typically those who believe Trump is remotely qualified to be POTUS, we must understand fact and reality are not significant components of their thought process. Supporting what they believe is often far more important than reality. I have actually lived in what they would consider socialist countries. Denmark, Norway, Belgium. I have also traveled and have many friends in those countries as well as Sweden and Canada. The reality is those people are indeed more satisfied than we in the US of A, particularly in this era of fake news fueled division. The reality is folks in those socialist countries do not get things for free. They pay more taxes which pays for what they get. For example, my family used socialized medicine while overseas. It was equal to and, in some areas, better that what we get in this country.
Let’s get off this political thread and keep things “APOLITICAL” (not political for those unfamiliar with the term), and lets get back to cars, SUV’s, trucks, washers and dryers, refrigerators, shoes, traffic laws, etc. thanks.
Re: What’s a good deal on 2019 supercrew limited 4x2?
Can you please post the money factor and residual value for a 2019 Ford F-150 limited 4x2 for a 36 month and 12k miles. Zip code 33498.4.58% APR
MSRP 69,385 offer $ 58,355
What’s a good deal?
60% residual
No lease cash
That looks like a great discount, but it might include purchase incentives that will be incompatible with the lease program.
kyfdx
5
Re: Range Rover Sport Autobiography #’s
Looking for Residual and MF on 2019 RRS Supercharged Dynamic Autobiography: MSRP $111.921 39 Months with 12k/year. Zip is 11235 Thank you!39/12
.00201 MF and 53% residual
kyfdx
5
Re: Does anyone know residual and mf on a 2019 Jetta r line 10k/36 zip 60451
Does anyone know residual and mf on a 2019 Jetta r line 10k/36 zip 60451.00036 MF and 57% residual
$250 dealer lease cash
kyfdx
5
Re: Lifting 3' 08 ford explorer xlt
If you don't want to get into complicated suspension changes, you should probably stay at 2.5" or less, from all I've read on the subject. My truck is lifted 2", but I didn't do the work, and it seems to handle just fine the way it is. No matter if the lift is only 2" or 2.5", you should at least check your wheel alignment specs. If you go 2.75", you might consult with an expert about getting longer shocks absorbers at the very least. Once you hit 3", then big bucks start to roll.
Re: Infiniti QX60 Lease question
Could you please give me MF, residual and available incentives on QX60, 36/39 months, 15K miles. 02451 zip
LUXE AWD.00016 and 54% / 53%
$750 incentive
Michaell
5
Re: Should passenger seat have warning sound when occupied and seat belt not fastened?
Every car I've had has a sound for the driver, but an indicator light if there's more than a certain amount of weight on the passenger seat and the belt is not buckled. So if I put my gym bag on the passenger seat, the light comes on, indicating that the air bag will not fire.
PF_Flyer
5
Re: Leasing 2019 Rogue SL
It's FWD wanted to know the current money factor, residual value, and if there are any loyality credits for 36month term @ 12k miles a year. located zip code 29640.00010 MF and 53% residual
No lease incentives
No loyalty info
kyfdx
1
Re: How to get a car running that has been parked for 30 years?
I see you're already off to a good start--a new fuel tank! Now you'll have to, at the very least, blow out the fuel lines, replace the fuel filter and any fuel screen that may be in the carburetor fuel inlet. Whether you have to rebuild the carburetor right off depends on a few things, such as how well it was covered all those years. Perhaps it will "run" with the carb on as is, but even if it does, it probably won't run well. But at least you can run it long enough to assess the engines condition.
You'll need to carefully inspect the engine bay for rodent damage--you don't want sparks or fuel spraying all over the place. You don't need coolant in the radiator as long as you're only planning to run the engine for a few minutes. Naturally as you progress in your work, you'll need to replace all the belts and hoses.
The most important thing NOT to do is just slap a battery on it and try to crank the engine. Rust can form in an engine, and if the piston rings are stuck to the cylinder walls, they'll snap right off on the first crank. So you'll have to massage the engine back to live. A few spoonfuls of automatic transmission fluid in the spark plug holes, sitting overnight, might be enough to allow you to hand-turn the engine the next day with a socket wrench on the crank pulley nut. This will be easier with the spark plugs out. If the engine turns, re-lubricate the holes and turn the engine a complete revolution or two.
Now you'll need a new distributor cap, points, condensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs.
But before you do a "live crank" with the battery, I'd suggest cranking the engine over with the coil disconnected and grounded, to test if there is any fuel pressure coming from the fuel pump. You can disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and run the line into a clear bottle--just briefly, to see when/if fuel arrives.
Always have a fire extinguisher at the ready at all times!
If you have fuel delivery, then spray a little (don't overdo it!) starting fluid into the carburetor but then replace the air filter (you don't want a backfire and possible fire, and the filter will suppress this). Make sure the choke is working. If not, try to free up the choke flap with some WD-40.
Once the engine starts, don't rev it up. Just keep it going at minimal speed.
If it idles on it's own and isn't making horrible noises, then you can go on to adding coolant, replacing hoses, draining old oil, adding fresh oil, and running it longer. Use cheap oil for the first oil change, since you'll only be running it at idle for about 1/2 hour before you dump that oil out as well.
Remember, your primary goal is to revive the engine without damaging it. That, and safety, safety, safety.
Let us know how it goes.
I'm sure other members here might add some things to do that I've forgotten.
Once the engine is purring, you can focus on cooling system, brakes and tires, all of which will need attention before you attempt to move the car anywhere. Of course, if you're just going to drive a short distance, you can try to inflate the old tires, to go a few hundred feet at slow speeds.
Once the car can start and move forward and back, then come up with a plan for ordering parts and for storing parts you take off. Always focus on the mechanicals first--the cosmetics come later.
You'll need to carefully inspect the engine bay for rodent damage--you don't want sparks or fuel spraying all over the place. You don't need coolant in the radiator as long as you're only planning to run the engine for a few minutes. Naturally as you progress in your work, you'll need to replace all the belts and hoses.
The most important thing NOT to do is just slap a battery on it and try to crank the engine. Rust can form in an engine, and if the piston rings are stuck to the cylinder walls, they'll snap right off on the first crank. So you'll have to massage the engine back to live. A few spoonfuls of automatic transmission fluid in the spark plug holes, sitting overnight, might be enough to allow you to hand-turn the engine the next day with a socket wrench on the crank pulley nut. This will be easier with the spark plugs out. If the engine turns, re-lubricate the holes and turn the engine a complete revolution or two.
Now you'll need a new distributor cap, points, condensor, spark plug wires and spark plugs.
But before you do a "live crank" with the battery, I'd suggest cranking the engine over with the coil disconnected and grounded, to test if there is any fuel pressure coming from the fuel pump. You can disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor and run the line into a clear bottle--just briefly, to see when/if fuel arrives.
Always have a fire extinguisher at the ready at all times!
If you have fuel delivery, then spray a little (don't overdo it!) starting fluid into the carburetor but then replace the air filter (you don't want a backfire and possible fire, and the filter will suppress this). Make sure the choke is working. If not, try to free up the choke flap with some WD-40.
Once the engine starts, don't rev it up. Just keep it going at minimal speed.
If it idles on it's own and isn't making horrible noises, then you can go on to adding coolant, replacing hoses, draining old oil, adding fresh oil, and running it longer. Use cheap oil for the first oil change, since you'll only be running it at idle for about 1/2 hour before you dump that oil out as well.
Remember, your primary goal is to revive the engine without damaging it. That, and safety, safety, safety.
Let us know how it goes.
I'm sure other members here might add some things to do that I've forgotten.
Once the engine is purring, you can focus on cooling system, brakes and tires, all of which will need attention before you attempt to move the car anywhere. Of course, if you're just going to drive a short distance, you can try to inflate the old tires, to go a few hundred feet at slow speeds.
Once the car can start and move forward and back, then come up with a plan for ordering parts and for storing parts you take off. Always focus on the mechanicals first--the cosmetics come later.