I bought the new Honda accord LX 4D sedan auto on 12/30/2004. It runs very well on the first 200 miles. After that, I occasionally feel some burning plastic/rubber or oil smell, when I parking the car in my garage.
Another problem is that popping noise happened when accelerating from 0 to 30 mph (2000 rpm).
I own a 1993 Accord with a functional AC and heater, but the system only blows air out the front vents. I cannot switch the air flow to the front defroster or down low. The mechanism that controls air distribution is no longer functioning. I can press the defrost button and the light illuminates, but nothing happens. Air just continues to blow out of the front vents only. Any lead would be appreciated. Thanks.
You shoud see the dealer for the noise. I am having the same problem and the dealer found an issue with one of the part bellow the exhaust being broken( I will repost what the part is later).
You'd have to take your dash apart and examine the cables that operate the air dampers. Either a cable end has come off (at the control or the air damper) or the cable sheath is no longer locked in place. Alternatively, the control mechanism up in the dash that operates the cable may be non-functional.
Unfortunately, getting access behind the dash is a tedious job without a service manual to show what panel gets attached how.
You shoud see the dealer for the noise. The dealer found 2 issues - 1 issue with one of the part below the exhaust being broken( I will repost what the part is later) another with heatshield washer.
I have the same car and the same problem...which occured at 350 miles! Same thing, never heard the problem 'till now and yes, the temperature has been colder than on the other days.
Needless to say, I'm taking my car in. Unfortunately there are a couple other issues with the car. :O(
My ECU chip went out and I replaced it and then my radio did not work. No one told me that the chip need to be reset once it was installed. I found this out after driving it for 3 days. Would this hurt the chip? So I reset the chip , the car is stalling out and when i checked the spark plugs ALL were fouled. Could this NOT be the ECU chip? Also on my RMP's the needle bounces like crazy from 0 up to 3500. What could be causing that? If i am correct, I think I am getting to much fuel.
That does sound simple, but how long do I have to let it warm up. I live in Fl hot all the time. I can start my 2003 Accord wait 3 minutes open my garage, pull out, put in drive, and drive out of my village without even stepping on the gas.
1. Check engine light is most likely emissions related and unless blinking, only needs to be reset. You may have a faulty oxygen sensor as well. Do you top off your gas? Sometimes topping off gas causes fuel to enter vacuum lines, tripping the check engine light. Again, it can be a million things, but I'm quite sure that it's emissions-related.
2. Could be something loose in your steering column or some sort of tolerance overlap. Does it always make the sound or only when your turning or doing something else?
3. I've noticed that with a lot of cars. You just need to set your temperature to a confortable level and live with it most likely. You won't ever have to worry about lack of ventilation. Changing it to recirculation might do the trick, though I doubt it.
Thanks ktnr. Follow up question, since it won't move to any other setting wouldn't it most likely be the control mechanism. What's the name of the motor that controls the dampers? I don't mind tedious and I do have a repair manual. I just need to know what to test, but the repair manual doesn't refer to much.
Has any experienced a slushing noise in the front drivers side of the Accord EX (2005)? It is really annoying - mostly happens first thing in the morning or when the car sits for awhile. Took it to the dealer and they could not find anything wrong. There has to be an issue, just not sure what else it could be. Any thoughts?
Make sure your gas cap is tight. Don't know if this is your problem but my engine malfunction light came on recently and after I tightened the cap the problem was resolved.
I live in New Jersey. On a cold day, I will let the engine run about 5 minutes prior to driving. On VERY cold days, I will let the engine run 10 minutes prior to driving. If there is snow on the vehicle, I let the engine run while I am removing the snow from the windows, and the roof of the vehicle. The engine needs to warm up so that the oil can circulate throughout the engine block. The oxygen sensor needs to warm up so that the engine can go into "closed loop operation". The automatic trans fluid needs some heat , so that it will shift in a smooth fashion. Everything works better when the vehicle is at normal operating temperature. Now some people will disagree with me on this subject. They will say that I am wasting fuel, but I have been very successful with my vehicles using this system, so I continue to treat my vehicles in this fashion. Since my vehicles are on my property, I start them, lock them, and let them warm up in the morning. It is VERY nice to get into a warm car!
Hi everyone. Picking up my '01 EX V6 on Monday at Sisley Honda in Toronto. Going from a 94 T-Bird V8 with lots of problems lately, I am excited about a car with less problems... or so I thought until I got to this site. The car has 44,000km with engine/powertrain warranty until April 2006. My question is, should I buy the 2 year/60,000km extended warranty (from date of my purchase) for the Honda powertrain plus comprehensive warranty (they don't like to call it bumber-to-bumper)? It's about $900CDN incl. taxes and several of my Honda owning friends think that an Accord with that low of KM's should be Okay for the next few years. So here it goes...what do the other experienced owners on this forum think? thanks for your reply time in advance.
I agree with you on this subject. In the winter, when the temp outside in the teens, I let my 89LXi run for about 10 minutes. The car runs smoother when the engine is warm.
While it probably does not hurt the engine, I have a 99 with 171,000 miles on it and always just start and go, which kind of shoots that theory down. You will waste some fuel though.
I finally got rid of my A pillar noise (and the countless others) on my 2004 EX coupe this Wednesday when I traded the car in. Hope they can fix yours rather that piddle around for 30 days in the shop as they did with mine - unsuccessfully.
It did hold it's value well and with a few more rupees got a 2002 Corvette. It makes a noise every now and then but most of the racket it makes is pretty cool....not just rattles and creaks every time you hit a bump.
Honda got me, I'll never forgive them or buy another one of their products, even though mechanically it was a wonderful car.
Good luck guys and gals - I get to belong to another discussion board now. The Honda and HOA is behind me.
In concur with the prior post that problem #1 is likely emissions related. Could have something to do with the gas you buy too or any additive you may have put in the tank.
Problem #2 is most likely related to the side-curtain airbag in the post. I've had problems with the bags and the canisters and housings shaking and vibrating loosely in the posts. They're stubborn and easy to fix if you can find a mechanic willing to open the post and tighten/pad everything. However, at least one mechanic I talked to refused to touch the job without first disconnecting the battery and draining down the electrical system because he was afraid the bag might pop in his face while he worked around it. I thought that was over-cautious but who am I to question his care for his own safety?
Problem three is what GM used to call "Flow through ventillation." So long as the vent is not on recirculate, there is always a small amount of fresh air tha can move through the vent (i.e. it doesn't seal tight).
Does it stop when the car is not moving? If so, than that's what it is. If it doesn't, then you've probably got a problem with the switch that turns off the fan on the dash or some other electrical issue that's continuing to run the fan when the dash says its off.
Most Hondas are very reliable mechanically, though quality on my 2004 EX V-6 6 spd. Accord Coupe is definitely less outstanding than it was on my '91 Accord EX 5 spd.
$900 Canadian (that would be less in US dollars, right?) doesn't sound that bad for the warranty you describe. However, even if you decline it, there are aftermarket warranties available from GEICO, Allstate Insurance, Universal Underwriters, and other companies galore, all for the same or less money. Most will warranty a car with under 70k miles after an inspection by their designated agent mechanic.
I never used to believe in warranties until I bought my 2002 Chevy Venture. I declined the warranty and took it on a 1500 mile trip, only to learn that my brand new vehicle was burning a quart of oil every 3,000 and that GM considered up to a quart every thousand "normal maintenance." When the dealer offered to back date the warranty after I came in for service, I jumped on it and purchased it. It saved me $1700 when my intake manifold gasket and a/c condenser blew simultaneoulsy at 38k miles.
On the other hand, these bulletin boards are frequented only by people having problems - many more buy Hondas (and Chevy's) new and used and never have a problem at all - so the choice really is up to you to decide how much risk you're willing to accept.
How far is your average trip? I have a 2004 EX V-6 6 spd. coupe that is EPA rated at 20 & 30 but averages about 25 in winter driving and 23-24 in summer driving on a 40 mile mostly highway commute each way to and from work. Yet, when I took the car on a 1000 mile round trip from NYC to Buffalo, I averaged 29-30.
The longer the highway part of the trip, the better the highway mileage.
I drive an '03 EX V6. It is 47 miles each way commute with only 15 on freeway, the rest on 2 lane roads and some steep hills. With 2 aboard ( and sad to say that comes to 450 #), I have been getting about 26 MPG over the past three months. Last road trip (almost all interstate) of 1200 miles I averaged 29-30 with probably same weight (less for wife, add luggage). I do not drive exceptionally gentle on my commute (80+ on freeway).
I am a new Honda owner of a 2004 Honda EX Coupe - just noticed a crack in my windshield - it appears to have started from either the top of the windshield but extends to the review mirror so could have originated from there - anyone else see an issue like this? Am trying to find out if it's a normal problem with the Honda as it does not appear to be from a rock or something hitting the windshield.
yes, bought some silicone spray from autozone and sprayed it under the weather strip along the side of the windshield. This is outside the car. You have to pry it up with you fingers and make sure you get between the rubber and the windshield. My noise was really really loud and sounded like cracking ice. Since it did this the noise has not come back.
Hi all - my wife and I just picked up an '05 4-door LX yesterday. It's very smooth and nice so far - except for the rattle. We first noticed it last night, didn't hear it at all on the test drive. It's coming from the driver's side upper left. At first I thought the windshield was loose(!), that's what it sounds like. Only happens over moderate to big bumps. After feeling around and listening closer, I think it's coming from the A-pillar, possibly in the side curtain airbag. I googled it and came across this board. Sounds like others are seeing this issue as well. We're going to take it in this week, has anyone gotten resolution on this thru the dealer? A brand new Honda should not rattle!
Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions you can offer ...
One week after dealer replaced my v6 accord alternator and battery with new ones, today, I found the engine malfunction light came on. I will check the gas cap as your post. Also the rear right side door power lock is not work properly now. It seems the electrical wire connector of that lock is not durable anymore because some times this lock is actived but some time not. My big concern is if all of the problems are caused by replacing the battery? Any comments will be appreciated!!!
I bought my 98 V6 accord last August and it was 97k and under Honda Plus Warranty purchased by the last owner of this car. by Dec 20 of 04 (the expire date) there was nothing wrong except the driver door checker, and dealer said this was not covered by the PLUS. As soon as we moved into 2005 we began to experience with the engine electrical problem such as alternator and battery sudden dead, power door lock malfunction..., etc. yes no car will be 100% perfect and trouble free. The problem is whenever your car needs to be protected by the warranty and it's GONE!
My 2003 EX-L manual has a crunching feel when I shift into second gear in cold weather. This is only for the first few shifts before the car warms up no matter how gentle I try to be. Once the car is warm it is buttery smooth. The car has 35K on it and I was wondering if this is something worth bringing it into the dealer for before the warrantee expires. Any thoughts?
Could be that bringing the "crunch" to the dealer's attention now by requesting repair would keep the issue open beyond the 36,000 mile warranty because the problem would have been faced prior to expiration of the warranty.
Perhaps some people have had experience with how Honda deals with problems that bridge the warranty period......Richard
Was in my wifes 2000 4 dr sedan today and the drivers window is the only one that works.All fuses have been checked. Are there any relays? If not, I assume its the passenger lockout switch. Anyone have any experience with this? . Also, I don't have a manual but it looks to me that the cover on the drivers controls in the door will snap off after removing one screw. Am I correct? Thanks in advance.
Same thing happened on my 03 coupe one hot, sunny day. Came out to find a crack extending from the top of the windshield on the driver's side down past the mirror. Replaced by my dealer under warranty.
I heard of one accident where when the car was hit sideways, it broke apart in two parts in the middle. It just does not sound right. Does anyone have any information on this type of failure?
There are two air filters, one is the cabin air filter and the other is the air filter for the engine. Look in your mothers owners manual and you will find the locations for both.
I have an old Accord, a 1990. For years, whenever it's cold, I can't turn the key in the ignition in order to pull it out. It turns nearly to the off position, but not all the way. If I wait a few minutes, however, the key comes out. Better yet, when it's like this, I can't move the gear shift either. As I said, I've lived with it for years. Lately however, when it's really cold, I can't turn the car on either. Believe it or not, I've taken it to the Honda dealer here and they can't figure it out. They recently changed the ignition switch with no effect. Any ideas? I'm desperate.
I saw your column on one of the forums. I had the same engine rev problem today after work when I started my engine. I usually let it warm .. wait for the rev pointer to go below 1000 before I drive. But it never did, and started reving between 1 and 2 mark. Then I drove and same problem, so I turned the engine on and off and the 3rd time, the Check engine light came on. Also while driving at certain times, it was like auto-driving by itself. My car is a 2002 Accord EX V6 Coupe, 40K miles on it. I bought an extended warranty on mine by the way.
I would appreciate it if you could tell me what you did to get it fixed. How much did u get charged etc at the dealership. Any advice would be appreciated.
I haven't had a problem with turning the car on with my 89 LXi, but on a few occasions I couldn't take the key out after turned the car off and shifted it in Park. Yes, it only happens when it's really really cold.
The next time when it's realy cold, pay attention to the shift level indicator on the dash board.
Make sure the Park indicator lit up before you turn off the engine. If the P indicator does not lit up after you shift the car into Park, try to shift it back to D and back to P again.
If you can't shift out of Park when the engine is off, use the automatic shift lock release.
But you have to have the main key. I used this method once. Luckily enough, I used the spare key for warming up the car and driving that time.
I assume your car is an automatic. You can't take the key out or start the car if the car does not think it's in P position.
My guess is the poor conductance in the harness at the shift lever caused this problem.
Our original tires (Michelin MXV4 Plus) are worn out after only 38,000 miles. Is this typical of these tires? Replacements are going to cost us $500 (total cost incl. mounting, etc) at Costco during a Michelin sale. Husband like the way the tires handled but $500 seems like a lot for tires that don't even make it to 40K. He tends to forget to have them rotated as often as recommended but they have been rotated some. Given these circumstances, would appreciate recommendations for possible substitutions for the Michelins.
You may want to check with Tires Only or Tire Direct near you for Yokohoma tire or Kumho tire. They are pretty much same quality with Michelin at much cheaper prices.
It only happens when it's cold inside the car because the grease that has gotten into the contacts on your shifter electronics (Inhibitor Switch Assembly) is cold and doesn't allow the spring loaded metallic contacts to contact those on the shift boot, so the car has no idea you are in park. If you are not sure this is the culprit you can make sure it's real cold out, and start your car then shut it off real quick and try to remove the key...you won't be able to. Use a heat gun on the driver side of your shift console and repeat this process (or just blast the heat inside the car for awhile and shut it down again) and if you can remove the key you should do the following.
1) Purchase the Inhibitor Switch Assembly for about $50 OR
2) Remove the cover on the shifter by unscrewing 2 screws on each side of the console and then I usually put the car in neutral and have to put the emergency brake about halfway up to wiggle the cover off.
You then have to remove the plastic cover on the shifter (another obviously placed 4 screws).
Lastly, you need to look on the driver side of what's left of your shifter and remove the two screws that hold the "shift position console switch" which I believe is white plastic and has a slider with spring loaded contacts that slides over a set of contacts corresponding to all the selections of P,R,N,D,2,1 (you get the idea).
Unsnap the two sections of this plastic housing but be sure not to lose pieces and to note how it was put together. On mine, the grease from the shift cable that is to the left of the console switch was all over the contacts and was also in the spring of the slider.
Clean it totally off the contacts (I used brake cleaner but whatever works for you) and ESPECIALLY get all of it out of the spring. The cold weather seems to stiffen the grease and it doesn't allow the spring to compress the contacts which tell the car it is in park. Without knowing the car is in park, you don't get the "P" to light up on the indicator and you don't get to remove your key either.
Once cleaned, put it all back together....making sure that you lined up the slider correctly and that you connected that wiring harness. You should be in good shape!
Otherwise, make sure your interior is nice and warm always and you'll be able to retrieve your key. BTW, I have a '90 LX Auto.
PS - if you have the service manual you can find diagrams on pages 14-148 and 23-136. If you don't have the manual, I advise you to get it....it's well worth the $60 or so dollars. Sorry this wasn't as polished as my other posts but it's about 2:30 AM here and I am a bit blitzed from just returning off a trip.
Good luck, and I virtually guarantee that's your problem.
you do not need to spend $500 for tires. check out other makes such as BF Goodrich,Dunlop,Yokohama,or Continental. Go to a tire warehouse or even Costco should carry less expensive tires. Michelins, while good tires, are always very expensive. I have a 99 camry, the last two sets were BF goodrich and held up well, currently have the 'Control T/A', for your Accord, perhaps the 'Traction T/A' would be a good fit. I spent $ 315 installed.
www.tirerack.com is a great place to start looking at tires. They have loads of tires, reviews, perf data and you can buy them and have them shipped to a nearby location (or a residence) to have them installed. You save some $ and the installer (Mavis for example) will be plenty happy just to be able to mount and balance them. Good luck.
Chucko3 and lastwraith, thanks so much for the responses! I don't understand most of it and don't have the wherewithall to do the repairs myself, but I have a call into the dealer that didn't check any of this the first time around and i'm going to read him your answers. Hopefully, the lightbulb will come on and they will be able to get my car fixed. Again, thanks!
It happened to my 89LXi this morning when the temp is in the low single digit even with the car already warmed up for 10 minutes. First time this winter.
Drove to the gas station to fill the tank, shifted it to P, the indicator didn't light up.
Tried to shift out of P with the engine still on, but the shift button was locked. Had to use the lock release mechanism with the main key to shift out of P to D4 and back to P again.
I think I will live with this problem until I retire the car. ;-)
Comments
Another problem is that popping noise happened when accelerating from 0 to 30 mph (2000 rpm).
Should I see the dealer?
I am going today to get it fixed.
Unfortunately, getting access behind the dash is a tedious job without a service manual to show what panel gets attached how.
I am going today to get it fixed.
Bought my first 'overseas' car. All my other cars have been domestic and I have had no problems with them.
Purchased '05 Accord Sedan V-6
Currently, 350 miles on it.
So far, LOVE IT...but...
1. Check engine light is on, won't turn off.
2. Driver pillar making very annoying 'cracking/creeking' noise.
3. Ventillation system won't really turn off. There is always air 'flowing' through it.
I now have an appointment at the dealer next week.
I've read about problem #2 in this discussion group but not the others.
Needless to say I'm very dissapointed that I'm having to take my new car in and it has not even hit 500 miles!
We'll see what happens.
I have the same car and the same problem...which occured at 350 miles! Same thing, never heard the problem 'till now and yes, the temperature has been colder than on the other days.
Needless to say, I'm taking my car in. Unfortunately there are a couple other issues with the car. :O(
2. Could be something loose in your steering column or some sort of tolerance overlap. Does it always make the sound or only when your turning or doing something else?
3. I've noticed that with a lot of cars. You just need to set your temperature to a confortable level and live with it most likely. You won't ever have to worry about lack of ventilation. Changing it to recirculation might do the trick, though I doubt it.
I have 05 EX V6 also and noticed this tonight as the temps droped below 30f. Very bad noise when hitting bumps in the road.
Taking car in on Monday and hope someone here can share how it is corrected before I go in and spend hours and days on the dealer solving the problem.
In the summer, I just start and go.
It did hold it's value well and with a few more rupees got a 2002 Corvette. It makes a noise every now and then but most of the racket it makes is pretty cool....not just rattles and creaks every time you hit a bump.
Honda got me, I'll never forgive them or buy another one of their products, even though mechanically it was a wonderful car.
Good luck guys and gals - I get to belong to another discussion board now. The Honda and HOA is behind me.
Problem #2 is most likely related to the side-curtain airbag in the post. I've had problems with the bags and the canisters and housings shaking and vibrating loosely in the posts. They're stubborn and easy to fix if you can find a mechanic willing to open the post and tighten/pad everything. However, at least one mechanic I talked to refused to touch the job without first disconnecting the battery and draining down the electrical system because he was afraid the bag might pop in his face while he worked around it. I thought that was over-cautious but who am I to question his care for his own safety?
Problem three is what GM used to call "Flow through ventillation." So long as the vent is not on recirculate, there is always a small amount of fresh air tha can move through the vent (i.e. it doesn't seal tight).
Does it stop when the car is not moving? If so, than that's what it is. If it doesn't, then you've probably got a problem with the switch that turns off the fan on the dash or some other electrical issue that's continuing to run the fan when the dash says its off.
-FS
$900 Canadian (that would be less in US dollars, right?) doesn't sound that bad for the warranty you describe. However, even if you decline it, there are aftermarket warranties available from GEICO, Allstate Insurance, Universal Underwriters, and other companies galore, all for the same or less money. Most will warranty a car with under 70k miles after an inspection by their designated agent mechanic.
I never used to believe in warranties until I bought my 2002 Chevy Venture. I declined the warranty and took it on a 1500 mile trip, only to learn that my brand new vehicle was burning a quart of oil every 3,000 and that GM considered up to a quart every thousand "normal maintenance." When the dealer offered to back date the warranty after I came in for service, I jumped on it and purchased it. It saved me $1700 when my intake manifold gasket and a/c condenser blew simultaneoulsy at 38k miles.
On the other hand, these bulletin boards are frequented only by people having problems - many more buy Hondas (and Chevy's) new and used and never have a problem at all - so the choice really is up to you to decide how much risk you're willing to accept.
-FS
The longer the highway part of the trip, the better the highway mileage.
-FS
2 year/60K km extended warranty. I will pass.
Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions you can offer ...
Perhaps some people have had experience with how Honda deals with problems that bridge the warranty period......Richard
I saw your column on one of the forums. I had the same engine rev problem today after work when I started my engine. I usually let it warm .. wait for the rev pointer to go below 1000 before I drive. But it never did, and started reving between 1 and 2 mark. Then I drove and same problem, so I turned the engine on and off and the 3rd time, the Check engine light came on. Also while driving at certain times, it was like auto-driving by itself. My car is a 2002 Accord EX V6 Coupe, 40K miles on it. I bought an extended warranty on mine by the way.
I would appreciate it if you could tell me what you did to get it fixed. How much did u get charged etc at the dealership. Any advice would be appreciated.
Nish
The next time when it's realy cold, pay attention to the shift level indicator on the dash board.
Make sure the Park indicator lit up before you turn off the engine. If the P indicator does not lit up after you shift the car into Park, try to shift it back to D and back to P again.
If you can't shift out of Park when the engine is off, use the automatic shift lock release.
But you have to have the main key. I used this method once. Luckily enough, I used the spare key for warming up the car and driving that time.
I assume your car is an automatic. You can't take the key out or start the car if the car does not think it's in P position.
My guess is the poor conductance in the harness at the shift lever caused this problem.
You may want to check with Tires Only or Tire Direct near you for Yokohoma tire or Kumho tire. They are pretty much same quality with Michelin at much cheaper prices.
Yokohoma Avid H4S High Performance All-Season
Here are record for my own Accords:
2003 Coupe: Tire Size:205/60HR16 Yokohoma Avid H4S : $64
Tires Only offers fast service. Good luck.
2002 Sedan: Tire Size:205/65HR15 Yokohoma Avid H4S: $62
1995 Sedan: Tire 195/60TR15 Kumho Touring Plus 732: $36
2002 V6 Accord Sedan: Tire Size:205/65HR15 Yokohoma Avid H4S: $62
Check with Tires Only near you ASAP.
My son's car is also EX V6 2002 (He inherited it from me as a free estate at 24K miles and it runs like brand new). Good luck lady.
1) Purchase the Inhibitor Switch Assembly for about $50 OR
2) Remove the cover on the shifter by unscrewing 2 screws on each side of the console and then I usually put the car in neutral and have to put the emergency brake about halfway up to wiggle the cover off.
You then have to remove the plastic cover on the shifter (another obviously placed 4 screws).
Lastly, you need to look on the driver side of what's left of your shifter and remove the two screws that hold the "shift position console switch" which I believe is white plastic and has a slider with spring loaded contacts that slides over a set of contacts corresponding to all the selections of P,R,N,D,2,1 (you get the idea).
Unsnap the two sections of this plastic housing but be sure not to lose pieces and to note how it was put together. On mine, the grease from the shift cable that is to the left of the console switch was all over the contacts and was also in the spring of the slider.
Clean it totally off the contacts (I used brake cleaner but whatever works for you) and ESPECIALLY get all of it out of the spring. The cold weather seems to stiffen the grease and it doesn't allow the spring to compress the contacts which tell the car it is in park. Without knowing the car is in park, you don't get the "P" to light up on the indicator and you don't get to remove your key either.
Once cleaned, put it all back together....making sure that you lined up the slider correctly and that you connected that wiring harness. You should be in good shape!
Otherwise, make sure your interior is nice and warm always and you'll be able to retrieve your key. BTW, I have a '90 LX Auto.
PS - if you have the service manual you can find diagrams on pages 14-148 and 23-136. If you don't have the manual, I advise you to get it....it's well worth the $60 or so dollars. Sorry this wasn't as polished as my other posts but it's about 2:30 AM here and I am a bit blitzed from just returning off a trip.
Good luck, and I virtually guarantee that's your problem.
Drove to the gas station to fill the tank, shifted it to P, the indicator didn't light up.
Tried to shift out of P with the engine still on, but the shift button was locked. Had to use the lock release mechanism with the main key to shift out of P to D4 and back to P again.
I think I will live with this problem until I retire the car. ;-)