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Comments
Another problem is that popping noise happened when accelerating from 0 to 30 mph (2000 rpm).
Should I see the dealer?
I am going today to get it fixed.
Unfortunately, getting access behind the dash is a tedious job without a service manual to show what panel gets attached how.
I am going today to get it fixed.
Bought my first 'overseas' car. All my other cars have been domestic and I have had no problems with them.
Purchased '05 Accord Sedan V-6
Currently, 350 miles on it.
So far, LOVE IT...but...
1. Check engine light is on, won't turn off.
2. Driver pillar making very annoying 'cracking/creeking' noise.
3. Ventillation system won't really turn off. There is always air 'flowing' through it.
I now have an appointment at the dealer next week.
I've read about problem #2 in this discussion group but not the others.
Needless to say I'm very dissapointed that I'm having to take my new car in and it has not even hit 500 miles!
We'll see what happens.
I have the same car and the same problem...which occured at 350 miles! Same thing, never heard the problem 'till now and yes, the temperature has been colder than on the other days.
Needless to say, I'm taking my car in. Unfortunately there are a couple other issues with the car. :O(
2. Could be something loose in your steering column or some sort of tolerance overlap. Does it always make the sound or only when your turning or doing something else?
3. I've noticed that with a lot of cars. You just need to set your temperature to a confortable level and live with it most likely. You won't ever have to worry about lack of ventilation. Changing it to recirculation might do the trick, though I doubt it.
I have 05 EX V6 also and noticed this tonight as the temps droped below 30f. Very bad noise when hitting bumps in the road.
Taking car in on Monday and hope someone here can share how it is corrected before I go in and spend hours and days on the dealer solving the problem.
In the summer, I just start and go.
It did hold it's value well and with a few more rupees got a 2002 Corvette. It makes a noise every now and then but most of the racket it makes is pretty cool....not just rattles and creaks every time you hit a bump.
Honda got me, I'll never forgive them or buy another one of their products, even though mechanically it was a wonderful car.
Good luck guys and gals - I get to belong to another discussion board now. The Honda and HOA is behind me.
Problem #2 is most likely related to the side-curtain airbag in the post. I've had problems with the bags and the canisters and housings shaking and vibrating loosely in the posts. They're stubborn and easy to fix if you can find a mechanic willing to open the post and tighten/pad everything. However, at least one mechanic I talked to refused to touch the job without first disconnecting the battery and draining down the electrical system because he was afraid the bag might pop in his face while he worked around it. I thought that was over-cautious but who am I to question his care for his own safety?
Problem three is what GM used to call "Flow through ventillation." So long as the vent is not on recirculate, there is always a small amount of fresh air tha can move through the vent (i.e. it doesn't seal tight).
Does it stop when the car is not moving? If so, than that's what it is. If it doesn't, then you've probably got a problem with the switch that turns off the fan on the dash or some other electrical issue that's continuing to run the fan when the dash says its off.
-FS
$900 Canadian (that would be less in US dollars, right?) doesn't sound that bad for the warranty you describe. However, even if you decline it, there are aftermarket warranties available from GEICO, Allstate Insurance, Universal Underwriters, and other companies galore, all for the same or less money. Most will warranty a car with under 70k miles after an inspection by their designated agent mechanic.
I never used to believe in warranties until I bought my 2002 Chevy Venture. I declined the warranty and took it on a 1500 mile trip, only to learn that my brand new vehicle was burning a quart of oil every 3,000 and that GM considered up to a quart every thousand "normal maintenance." When the dealer offered to back date the warranty after I came in for service, I jumped on it and purchased it. It saved me $1700 when my intake manifold gasket and a/c condenser blew simultaneoulsy at 38k miles.
On the other hand, these bulletin boards are frequented only by people having problems - many more buy Hondas (and Chevy's) new and used and never have a problem at all - so the choice really is up to you to decide how much risk you're willing to accept.
-FS
The longer the highway part of the trip, the better the highway mileage.
-FS
2 year/60K km extended warranty. I will pass.
Thanks in advance for any info or suggestions you can offer ...
Perhaps some people have had experience with how Honda deals with problems that bridge the warranty period......Richard
I saw your column on one of the forums. I had the same engine rev problem today after work when I started my engine. I usually let it warm .. wait for the rev pointer to go below 1000 before I drive. But it never did, and started reving between 1 and 2 mark. Then I drove and same problem, so I turned the engine on and off and the 3rd time, the Check engine light came on. Also while driving at certain times, it was like auto-driving by itself. My car is a 2002 Accord EX V6 Coupe, 40K miles on it. I bought an extended warranty on mine by the way.
I would appreciate it if you could tell me what you did to get it fixed. How much did u get charged etc at the dealership. Any advice would be appreciated.
Nish
The next time when it's realy cold, pay attention to the shift level indicator on the dash board.
Make sure the Park indicator lit up before you turn off the engine. If the P indicator does not lit up after you shift the car into Park, try to shift it back to D and back to P again.
If you can't shift out of Park when the engine is off, use the automatic shift lock release.
But you have to have the main key. I used this method once. Luckily enough, I used the spare key for warming up the car and driving that time.
I assume your car is an automatic. You can't take the key out or start the car if the car does not think it's in P position.
My guess is the poor conductance in the harness at the shift lever caused this problem.
You may want to check with Tires Only or Tire Direct near you for Yokohoma tire or Kumho tire. They are pretty much same quality with Michelin at much cheaper prices.
Yokohoma Avid H4S High Performance All-Season
Here are record for my own Accords:
2003 Coupe: Tire Size:205/60HR16 Yokohoma Avid H4S : $64
Tires Only offers fast service. Good luck.
2002 Sedan: Tire Size:205/65HR15 Yokohoma Avid H4S: $62
1995 Sedan: Tire 195/60TR15 Kumho Touring Plus 732: $36
2002 V6 Accord Sedan: Tire Size:205/65HR15 Yokohoma Avid H4S: $62
Check with Tires Only near you ASAP.
My son's car is also EX V6 2002 (He inherited it from me as a free estate at 24K miles and it runs like brand new). Good luck lady.
1) Purchase the Inhibitor Switch Assembly for about $50 OR
2) Remove the cover on the shifter by unscrewing 2 screws on each side of the console and then I usually put the car in neutral and have to put the emergency brake about halfway up to wiggle the cover off.
You then have to remove the plastic cover on the shifter (another obviously placed 4 screws).
Lastly, you need to look on the driver side of what's left of your shifter and remove the two screws that hold the "shift position console switch" which I believe is white plastic and has a slider with spring loaded contacts that slides over a set of contacts corresponding to all the selections of P,R,N,D,2,1 (you get the idea).
Unsnap the two sections of this plastic housing but be sure not to lose pieces and to note how it was put together. On mine, the grease from the shift cable that is to the left of the console switch was all over the contacts and was also in the spring of the slider.
Clean it totally off the contacts (I used brake cleaner but whatever works for you) and ESPECIALLY get all of it out of the spring. The cold weather seems to stiffen the grease and it doesn't allow the spring to compress the contacts which tell the car it is in park. Without knowing the car is in park, you don't get the "P" to light up on the indicator and you don't get to remove your key either.
Once cleaned, put it all back together....making sure that you lined up the slider correctly and that you connected that wiring harness. You should be in good shape!
Otherwise, make sure your interior is nice and warm always and you'll be able to retrieve your key. BTW, I have a '90 LX Auto.
PS - if you have the service manual you can find diagrams on pages 14-148 and 23-136. If you don't have the manual, I advise you to get it....it's well worth the $60 or so dollars. Sorry this wasn't as polished as my other posts but it's about 2:30 AM here and I am a bit blitzed from just returning off a trip.
Good luck, and I virtually guarantee that's your problem.
Drove to the gas station to fill the tank, shifted it to P, the indicator didn't light up.
Tried to shift out of P with the engine still on, but the shift button was locked. Had to use the lock release mechanism with the main key to shift out of P to D4 and back to P again.
I think I will live with this problem until I retire the car. ;-)