Just logged 3,000 miles on my 2003 Passat Wagon GL manual, and I love the car. It seems a unique combination of performance, comfort, style, utility and price. However, I cannot get used to the acceleration pattern. It's very uneven. It starts off a little sluggish, then throws you back as something kicks in. I've read about replacing the ECU chip with one that provides increased horsepower and acceleration. Is there an after-market chip that would make the acceleration more linear?
I'm in the market for a wagon and was sold on the 2003 Passat GLX AWD (@$32,000) when I found a 2000 BMW iAt wagon with all the bells and whistles, 50,000 miles, almost perfect condition, with a 2 yr/50,000 mile warranty for $27,000. I loved that, too. Do you have any advice about what to consider as I make my choice? Any wise insights or enlightening experiences? Many thanks!
I just got a new Passat myself and have noticed that nonlinear delivery of power. Call me weird here but I noticed that it's less pronounced when I move the seat closer to the gas pedal so that I press on the pedal with the ball of my foot rather than the toes. YMMV.
Just a short list of problems I have faced with my 2001 VW Passat - has only 25K miles and 30 months old - - Passenger door problem - water leaks inside the vehicle - Engine light comes on - Emmissions line leaking - Truck latch does not operate - Brake lights/tail lights blows off every 6 month - Remote (keyless entry) stopped working - Driver side doors squeaks
I have had more problems with this vehicle than with my old Hondas. The original warranty got over in 2 yrs and the expensive extended warranty doesn't cover any of the above problems. So, I have had to shell out a lot of money on this crappy vehicle.
I understand that a mechanical or electrical failure can happen to any car BUT I am "pissed off" at the fact that the dealer, VW Customer Service or extended warranty doesn't help tries to wash their hands off of these issues. I feel cheated and definitely not going to buy another VW. In addition I am strongly discouraging all my friends and acquaintences from buying a VW.
Go for a Honda, Toyota, BMW, Lexus or Volvo but NEVER a VW.
After 20k miles, about the only complaint I have about my '02 wagon is with the Homelink option. The signal is very weak. I have to flip the visor down and have to be practically right next to the garage door for it to open. The door opener manufacturer's remote that I use in my other car will open the door from at least 50 feet away. Anyone else have this problem? Is my Homelink defective or are they all just weaker devices?
That "something that kicks in" is called the turbo charger. The non-linear nature of the acceleration in the Passat is typical of turbo charged engines. The "lag" in the Passat is relatively mild since the turbo is smaller and spools up fairly low in the RPM band (around 1800 to 2000 RPM in mine). I have become accustomed to it and actually like the rush of the turbo when it kicks in. With a bit of practice you learn how to modulate the throttle to get a more linear acceleration. If I am not mistaken, the turbo in the Passat adds about 8 psi of boost. Someone here can correct me if I'm wrong, but, I understand that the ECU chip modification to the Passat increases the boost pressure which results in the higher HP and torque numbers. You would probably feel a more uneven acceleration in that case since there would be a larger rush of power under heavy acceleration.
If you want to really feel some lag and rush, test drive a Subaru WRX. The WRX has a bigger turbo that takes longer to spool up (engine RPM's need to be around 2600 to 2800 if I remember correctly) and it delivers a more forceful thrust once up to power due to the 12 PSI of boost it provides. (Or try a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution with its 19 psi of boost and really get a kick in the pants when the turbo spools up!)
If you get a turbo charged vehicle with a manual transmission you can also learn how to "keep the pot boiling" so that the RPM's are high enough to keep the turbo spooled up. There is not much you can do when taking off from a dead stop though . . . unless you like to rev it up and drop the clutch
My wife's 1.8T engine in her 2000 TT was chipped and the difference was remarkable. Prior to chipping, I would say that the turbo lag was almost undetectable -- which is to say I am somewhat surprised that you notice the turbo kicking in, since the tuning of the original TT 1.8T (to 180HP) and your VW Passat are very similar. Moreover, I have driven the Audi 1.8T equipped A4 and found it to be very enjoyable.
Beside the point.
The torque of the 1.8T engine can be bumped considerably.
The torque bump comes with one side effect -- MAXIMUM torque increases by 50% (minimum) but it comes on at perhaps 2600 RPM's -- the stock motor's torque comes on BELOW 2000 RPM's -- so the effect we had was: almost not turbo lag stock, to noticeable lag with the chip but acceleration as long as the RPM's were over 2500 (in any gear) that was astounding!
Hey Tlr5 - buy the passat ! it is just as good as the bimmer and you aren't getting sloppy seconds ! (They both run 150 on the autobahn)
Hey crappyvw - get a lawyer and file on the dealer - you may not get anywhere but you may be suprised. Believe me, there aren't very many cars out there like yours or you would be seeing alot more of them right here
Did you guys know the reason for TMV price drop today in Edmunds?I noticed GLX V6 Passat auto dropped from &27,318 to $27,071 today.(ESP excluded in both)
My guess -- it's coming to the end of the model year and the dealers are clearing inventory. This is the time when sales rebates and price cuts really start to kick in. Dealers want to get the inventory off the lot so they have room for the '04s.
You'll find dealers more willing to haggle closer to invoice or otherwise do what it takes to get the cars out. If the dealer is doing well otherwise, they'll sometimes go so far as to take no profit on the sale if it will get the car off their lot and you into their service department for regular maintenance (they make the real money on maintenance bills, anyway).
Personally, I'm stunned that I got the price I did for my '03 GLX ($28,276 for a GLX with ESP and the trunk-mounted CD-changer), considering that I bought it at the end of May -- not even close to the end of the model year. It wasn't quite invoice price, but it was damned close.
jlmoran-I closed a deal with 26780 + taxes(bay area) on GLX 03 passat with ESP included.This was well below yesterdays TMV invoice 27071.And got a 1.9 financing as well.I even got better deals for a different color from other dealers but finally purchased by blue beauty!
For those of you contemplating a new Passat (or just about any car I can think of) consider checking the monthly lease payment for identical '03's and '04's.
It has been my experience over many years of leasing (since 1978) that new cars may lease for less per month than new last year's model cars.
Of course, if the dealer or MFG has discounted the MSRP (cap cost) then the new last year's model may be less per month.
If you are getting the itch for a new car and are NOT paying cash, it may pay to get the '04.
I suspect that money factors may still incent one way or another also -- my point is don't assume that the '03 will be a better deal.
Wow! That was a great price! This was a recent purchase, or a few months back?
Pretty much every single quote I got was in the ballpark of what I paid -- +- $250. I basically chose the dealer based on convenience to work and standard loaner car policy for cars brought in for scheduled maintenance. I live in NJ, so I'm not sure if local economics have any impact on pricing relative to where you live (California?). Either way, sweet deal you got there!
I also got the 1.9% financing, which is great. Out of curiosity, how much did you put down (in %)? I put down a little over 40%, but I don't know if putting down more or less has any bearing on the final price you can haggle out of the dealer. I'd guess not, given that I put that much down and didn't get any kind of major break on the price beyond what was already given to me.
I own a 2001 GLX 4Mo that just turned 50,000 miles. Given all the complaints one sees on this (and other) boards, I thought I'd pass along my thoughts.
First, I love this car. I'm going to trade for another next year, although we'll probably get a wagon. My wife loves to drive it. It's fun, safe and has been very reliable.
The downside is the cost of service. Once you get out of the service warranty period, it is expensive to maintain. The 40K service cost about $600.
So far, the only problem I've had was a right front wheel bearing replaced at about 45,000 miles. I am also taking it in to replace the front brake shoes, which will cost $250 or so. I don't know if this is normal at those mileages or not.
Finally, I'm a litte disappointed by the fuel "economy." We put 90 percent of our miles on this car on the highway and we average about 22 mpg.
Our service is done by Carousel Motors in Iowa City. It's been great.
. . .most people who have positive experiences don't bother to post. It would be fantastic to see the real statistics.
We will, however, have to base so much of our input though on anecdotes -- good and bad.
It is a pleasure to see someone write some good news; or better yet use this board as a discussion board amongst and between "fans" of the brand.
No wonder the manufacturers themselves don't participate on these boards, the temptation for someone to bash them would be too great for some and why on earth would you subject yourself to name calling.
Conversely, it would be nice to have interaction with a representative of VW -- Oh Well. . .at least we have VWGUILD.
But I've noticed that he has been getting beaten up from time to time or at least criticized for some of his posts on the Touareg board.
Now that we are firmly into the 04 production year, I am wondering if VWGUILD knows anything about the upcoming engine and transmission choices (in the Passat lineup, specifically)?
I have a 2003 Passat GLX with 5K miles now. Love the car. Dealer will sell me new vehicle VW factory extended warranty as long as I purchase before car has > 6K miles. Contract is Platnium level, 7 yr/100K, $100 deductible, for $1,778. I tend to keep my cars for at least 100K miles. Any advice whether extended warranty contract is recommended or worthwhile?
The instructions recommend replacing the battery in your handheld transmitter before programming homelink. A weak battery in your handheld could affect the range of your homelink transmitter.
I followed these steps and my range is about a block.
I'm about to purchase my Passat, but a friend of mine mentioned that in Consumer Reports it's rated almost at the bottom of the list in terms of maintenance. Anybody had any experience?
BTW, I'm getting quotes from dealers through Edmunds.com, the lowest one I got yesterday on a Passat GLX is $26,100 (I'm in SF Bay area). I'm pretty much ready to go just want to make sure it can get me the color I want.
I, too, live in the Cincinnati area and may be purchasing a Passat within the next few months. I love the idea of the 1.8T and the fact that it is highly tunable and adds to the sporty character of the car (combined with the "sensible shoes" sedan appeal). At some point, I would likely add a chip, K&N filter, and perhaps a more robust diverter valve and vacuum hoses down the line. You mentioned that you had a TT 1.8T with a chip. Are there any chip vendors in the greater tri-state area? I've heard good things about Wett, GIAC and APR, but don't know about locations and support.
Also, are there any "chip-friendly" dealers and/or maintenance shops in the area that you are aware of?
Hi, I'm interested in buying a 2001 Passat GLS with the 1.8T motor. However, I don't know how to tell if it has the 150HP or 170HP motor. I've read that some 2001's will have the higher horsepower motor. Here's the VIN if that helps: WVWAC63B21P020352. I've tried various VIN decoders, but none provide a HP rating for the motor. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
are, in the main, cosmetic Mark...Paints, leather, etc., but we will be getting a 45 State 2.0L Passat TDI that can be chipped into a rocket with great fuel economy...In addition, the 1.8T GLS will get a 4MO availability with both a 5 Speed Manual or Tiptronic...the V6 gas been dropped from the GLS trim level...W8 6 Speed will come with the Sport Pkg. included.
Paint & other change points can be found in a thread here under that title...
Hi, I'm interested in buying a 2001 Passat GLS with the 1.8T motor. However, I don't know how to tell if it has the 150HP or 170HP motor. I've read that some 2001's will have the higher horsepower motor. Here's the VIN if that helps: WVWAC63B21P020352. I've tried various VIN decoders, but none provide a HP rating for the motor. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I cannot recommend brake dust shields. True, they may help reduce dusty wheels, BUT under certain conditions braking performance may be adversely affected. This can range from rapid brake pad wear to outright brake failure. Cooling air flow must not be interfered with. Probably the worst case scenario could be descending a steep grade while towing a heavy trailer (boat, camping trailer, utility trailer loaded with firewood - not a golf cart.) If the brakes are applied repeatedly or for long periods the brake fluid could boil. If that happens - no brakes. Restricting the cooling air flow may contribute to the boiling. Also, residual heat that is not dissipated may cause premature brake pad/rotor wear. While shields help your wheels stay looking nice longer, they can have drawbacks. If someone is injured & a sharp lawyer can "prove" dust shields contributed, the manufacturer is probably off the hook and you could be firmly "planted." Choose wisely. Man, I sure do like my Fresco Green Passat! I always use 91 octane when the temp is 90 or above, or hauling a load, or taking a road trip. Everyday driving consists of about 40mi on the highways.
Thanks to those who answered my post above. Another 2001 Passat has come to my attention. This one is a GLX with the V6 and the manual tranny. I can't find any reviews of this particular motor and tranny combo. Does anybody have any information on the performance and gas mileage of this combo? This car is an early 2001 and not a 2001.5. Any comments on 01's vs 01.5's? Thanks again.
i have a 98 passat and it needed a brakejob, replacing the pads and rotors in the front. the invoice for the repair included two new original VW rotors at $92.00 each and there was a charge of $44.00 for resurfacing them also. when i questioned the shop asking why would it be necessary to resurface new factory rotors, the answer was: sometime they get deformed by sitting on the shelf and they resurface them routinely every time they put one on. does anybody know if this is a justified procedure or is it merely a way of charging a little extra?
Some time ago I read a post from an engineer who claimed he was involved in performance testing of air filters, and had the graphs and charts to show that the K&N filters did very little to increase performance, and in some cases they were detrimental to performance. If this is true, it seems the only advantage for K&N would be that they are washable. I've always used them in my vehicles, but held off on using a K&N in my Passat after reading that post. Does anyone have more information?
Sorry it has taken so long to reply, I am lucky to check this board once a week. I have a '02 GLX with manual and I am very happy with it. With both cars stock, it is about 1/2 second quicker than the 1.8T due to the better low RPM torque. There are aftermarket parts that can turn the 1.8 into a screamer however. The 2.8 cannot be much more than it already is , so if you want a engine that you can "juice up" the 2.8 is the wrong choice. Still if you want something that you can just let out the clutch without giving it much gas pedal, the V6 is it. If you want to pull a small camping trailer or small boat, the V6 is it. And it is very, very smooth at high speeds. As far as engines lasting 100K miles, the naturally aspirated V6 should out live the turbo easily. Still mine only has 25K on it right now, so we will have to wait to find that out. I drive 50+ miles every day (about 1/2 city and 1/2 highway) and I average about 28 MPG. (from what I calculate from fillups)
I wanted some opinions on replacing tires on a 2002 Passat GLX 4Motion sedan. There are 55k miles on the stock MXV4 Plus and they are in need of replacing. National Tire has suggested a 15" tire. Does anyone have the 16" on their Passat and any other suggestions?
First off if you have 15" wheels/tires currently you will either need to buy 15" tires or 16" wheels and tires to upgrade.
There are wheel and tire upgrades available for your Passat.
If YOU DO NOT WANT TO CHANGE WHEELS: you can upgrade nonetheless by a process called "plus zero sizing;" this is the least expensive way to upgrade and improve the performance of your Passat.
Let's just go down this path for a moment --
Assume you have 205 x 55 tires (on whatever size wheels) on your Passat. If this is the case and you do not want to increase the WHEEL SIZE, well you can increase the contact patch and improve the handling by virture of going to a lower profile tire. In this hypothetical example, you could PLUS ZERO size to 225 x 50 (on whatever size wheels) and you would have "more rubber on the road" and almost certainly a stiffer sidewall -- the car's handling would improve as a result. And, with plus zero sizing you get many of the benefits of plus 1 sizing (which means you increased your wheel size by 1"). If you go to a one inch diameter larger wheel you can plus 1 size and probably plus zero size on the new wheel, giving you in effect a double benefit. Tread width would increase, aspect ratio would decrease and wheel diameter would also increase -- the effect would be yet another improvement in handling.
I have no affiliation with these folks, but you can get a TON of education about the above and other subjects on line @ www.tirerack.com!
At the very least, I would plus zero and depending on where you live, I would certainly consider Ultra High Performance All Season tires (unless you have no winter whatsoever). Yoko AVS db2 or Conti Extreme or Mich Pilot Sport A/S's all qualify. Of course if you live where there is heavy heavy winter, these tires are probably not ok, but if you do not currently have dedicated winter and summer tires, these tires are the best year round choices I have ever used, personally.
Drive it like you live.
PS the National Tire people sound, um, er, ah -- "less than" you deserve, yeah, that's it -- "less than" you need.
I wouldn't go for the 7yr/100k warrantee unless you drive relatively few miles per year (~15k miles/yr). I have 113k miles on my 99 Passat and have had no major issues (just left headlight likes to die !?!?!?).
From prior VW experience, I have found that the dealers LOVE to do lots of work under warrantee (and then charge that back to VW). I stopped going to VW dealers for service and lo & behold! the "nagging problems" went away. COMPLETELY.
Change your oil often, remember to replace timing belt, etc (all your normal maintenance stuff) and your VW should last a LONG LONG time.
Looking for people's input...want to know what gas mileage you are getting...
I bought a 2003 Passat GLX V6 Automatic a month ago. I live in LA and have been averaging 13-14 mpg in city driving, not driving the car hard. Is everyone having this issue, or is it just because the car is too new?
I have tried both 87 and 91 octane gas, so that is not it...
Congrats on your purchase! I just got my 2003 GLX Auto a month and a half ago. So far, my gas mileage has been between 20 and 23 MPG. The 20 reflects more city driving and the 23 more highway. I'm hoping it will improve over time, but yours is extremely low. Have you been able to take it on a long trip yet on the highway to check that mileage?
Gas mileage depends on so many different factors. I have an '03 GLX 4mo wagon and live in San Francisco. If I take a short (less than 15-minute) drive anywhere near downtown with the short city blocks and hills, my gas mileage for the trip will average around 7-9 miles to the gallon! Hideous! But taking any trip that gets me onto a freeway and my mileage averages 19-23 miles to the gallon.
I am getting really bad gas mileage. Bought a V6 Passat 1 month ago, have put 1K miles on the car and have averaged 13-14 mpg. I am using 91 octane as this is what is available in LA. I take mostly short trips, and even though I live in LA, I am not sitting in traffic.
What is everyone else experiencing? Does it improve with time?
I haven't really let the car run yet. In a few minutes, I am taking it on the highway for about 1 hour to go somewhere. Also, I am taking it to the dealer today to see what is up.
That's the info I was looking for. I went ahead and bought the 2001 GLX with the manual tranny. It had a clean Carfax report and nothing remarkable repair wise thru VW dealerships. I'm hoping I've gotten a good one. I'll probably have it in about two weeks. I'm already thinking about mods...CD player will be first...but then what?!
I'm getting close to going for a Passat (versus a Camry or Mazda6, also under consideration). But i asked a coworker who is married to a mechanic to ask him what he thought. He said that while Passats, Camries, and Accords are all good cars, the problem with the Passat is that only specialized shops and mechanics know how to work on European cars. He said, by contrast, that i could take a Camry or Accord anywhere and the mechanics will know how ot deal with them. So let me ask this board: is that true? Is this a good reason not to get a Passat? (I'm in a Midwestern, non-urban area, although there is a VW dealer near where I work). Thanks!
Comments
- Passenger door problem - water leaks inside the vehicle
- Engine light comes on
- Emmissions line leaking
- Truck latch does not operate
- Brake lights/tail lights blows off every 6 month
- Remote (keyless entry) stopped working
- Driver side doors squeaks
I have had more problems with this vehicle than with my old Hondas. The original warranty got over in 2 yrs and the expensive extended warranty doesn't cover any of the above problems. So, I have had to shell out a lot of money on this crappy vehicle.
I understand that a mechanical or electrical failure can happen to any car BUT I am "pissed off" at the fact that the dealer, VW Customer Service or extended warranty doesn't help tries to wash their hands off of these issues. I feel cheated and definitely not going to buy another VW. In addition I am strongly discouraging all my friends and acquaintences from buying a VW.
Go for a Honda, Toyota, BMW, Lexus or Volvo but NEVER a VW.
If you want to really feel some lag and rush, test drive a Subaru WRX. The WRX has a bigger turbo that takes longer to spool up (engine RPM's need to be around 2600 to 2800 if I remember correctly) and it delivers a more forceful thrust once up to power due to the 12 PSI of boost it provides. (Or try a Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution with its 19 psi of boost and really get a kick in the pants when the turbo spools up!)
If you get a turbo charged vehicle with a manual transmission you can also learn how to "keep the pot boiling" so that the RPM's are high enough to keep the turbo spooled up. There is not much you can do when taking off from a dead stop though . . . unless you like to rev it up and drop the clutch
Beside the point.
The torque of the 1.8T engine can be bumped considerably.
The torque bump comes with one side effect -- MAXIMUM torque increases by 50% (minimum) but it comes on at perhaps 2600 RPM's -- the stock motor's torque comes on BELOW 2000 RPM's -- so the effect we had was: almost not turbo lag stock, to noticeable lag with the chip but acceleration as long as the RPM's were over 2500 (in any gear) that was astounding!
(They both run 150 on the autobahn)
Hey crappyvw - get a lawyer and file on the dealer - you may not get anywhere but you may be suprised. Believe me, there aren't very many cars out there like yours or you would be seeing alot more of them right here
Hey Turbo lag whiners ! shoulda had a V6 !
Gatorsnap
You'll find dealers more willing to haggle closer to invoice or otherwise do what it takes to get the cars out. If the dealer is doing well otherwise, they'll sometimes go so far as to take no profit on the sale if it will get the car off their lot and you into their service department for regular maintenance (they make the real money on maintenance bills, anyway).
Personally, I'm stunned that I got the price I did for my '03 GLX ($28,276 for a GLX with ESP and the trunk-mounted CD-changer), considering that I bought it at the end of May -- not even close to the end of the model year. It wasn't quite invoice price, but it was damned close.
It has been my experience over many years of leasing (since 1978) that new cars may lease for less per month than new last year's model cars.
Of course, if the dealer or MFG has discounted the MSRP (cap cost) then the new last year's model may be less per month.
If you are getting the itch for a new car and are NOT paying cash, it may pay to get the '04.
I suspect that money factors may still incent one way or another also -- my point is don't assume that the '03 will be a better deal.
Pretty much every single quote I got was in the ballpark of what I paid -- +- $250. I basically chose the dealer based on convenience to work and standard loaner car policy for cars brought in for scheduled maintenance. I live in NJ, so I'm not sure if local economics have any impact on pricing relative to where you live (California?). Either way, sweet deal you got there!
I also got the 1.9% financing, which is great. Out of curiosity, how much did you put down (in %)? I put down a little over 40%, but I don't know if putting down more or less has any bearing on the final price you can haggle out of the dealer. I'd guess not, given that I put that much down and didn't get any kind of major break on the price beyond what was already given to me.
First, I love this car. I'm going to trade for another next year, although we'll probably get a wagon. My wife loves to drive it. It's fun, safe and has been very reliable.
The downside is the cost of service. Once you get out of the service warranty period, it is expensive to maintain. The 40K service cost about $600.
So far, the only problem I've had was a right front wheel bearing replaced at about 45,000 miles. I am also taking it in to replace the front brake shoes, which will cost $250 or so. I don't know if this is normal at those mileages or not.
Finally, I'm a litte disappointed by the fuel "economy." We put 90 percent of our miles on this car on the highway and we average about 22 mpg.
Our service is done by Carousel Motors in Iowa City. It's been great.
We will, however, have to base so much of our input though on anecdotes -- good and bad.
It is a pleasure to see someone write some good news; or better yet use this board as a discussion board amongst and between "fans" of the brand.
No wonder the manufacturers themselves don't participate on these boards, the temptation for someone to bash them would be too great for some and why on earth would you subject yourself to name calling.
Conversely, it would be nice to have interaction with a representative of VW -- Oh Well. . .at least we have VWGUILD.
But I've noticed that he has been getting beaten up from time to time or at least criticized for some of his posts on the Touareg board.
Now that we are firmly into the 04 production year, I am wondering if VWGUILD knows anything about the upcoming engine and transmission choices (in the Passat lineup, specifically)?
Any ideas when the 2004 pricing or standard/optional lists will be out?
Steveiowa - I live in Waverly. Does Carousel normally carry much inventory? (I'm looking for a wagon, they seem to be less than 10% of the production)
http://www.homelink.com/program/hlmanual.pdf
The instructions recommend replacing the battery in your handheld transmitter before programming homelink. A weak battery in your handheld could affect the range of your homelink transmitter.
I followed these steps and my range is about a block.
VW/Audi/Porsche products -- great at their various price points and intentions -- breathtakingly expensive to own/repair out of warranty.
. . .and 3 cents change from your nickle.
BTW, I'm getting quotes from dealers through Edmunds.com, the lowest one I got yesterday on a Passat GLX is $26,100 (I'm in SF Bay area). I'm pretty much ready to go just want to make sure it can get me the color I want.
Also, are there any "chip-friendly" dealers and/or maintenance shops in the area that you are aware of?
TIA.
Also you will find the regional location of an APR dealer (greater Cleveland).
I had Northland chip my 1.8T, but the DPP means that the dealer will not need to be involved.
The heavy duty Bypass valve may be a good investment based on what I have read.
Good luck.
will come with the Sport Pkg. included.
Paint & other change points can be found in a thread here under that title...
they may help reduce dusty wheels, BUT under
certain conditions braking performance may be
adversely affected. This can range from rapid
brake pad wear to outright brake failure.
Cooling air flow must not be interfered with.
Probably the worst case scenario could be
descending a steep grade while towing a heavy
trailer (boat, camping trailer, utility trailer loaded with firewood - not a golf cart.) If the brakes are applied repeatedly or for long
periods the brake fluid could boil. If that
happens - no brakes. Restricting the cooling
air flow may contribute to the boiling. Also,
residual heat that is not dissipated may cause
premature brake pad/rotor wear. While shields
help your wheels stay looking nice longer, they can have drawbacks. If someone is injured & a
sharp lawyer can "prove" dust shields
contributed, the manufacturer is probably off
the hook and you could be firmly "planted."
Choose wisely.
Man, I sure do like my Fresco Green Passat!
I always use 91 octane when the temp is 90 or above, or hauling a load, or taking a road trip.
Everyday driving consists of about 40mi on the highways.
the invoice for the repair included two new original VW rotors at $92.00 each and there was a charge of $44.00 for resurfacing them also. when i questioned the shop asking why would it be necessary to resurface new factory rotors, the answer was: sometime they get deformed by sitting on the shelf and they resurface them routinely every time they put one on.
does anybody know if this is a justified procedure or is it merely a way of charging a little extra?
FYI, next time (the rears for example) buy the parts online. front oem rotors are about $40 each. try www.germanautoparts.com or ecstuning.com
Does anyone have more information?
I have a '02 GLX with manual and I am very happy with it. With both cars stock, it is about 1/2 second quicker than the 1.8T due to the better low RPM torque. There are aftermarket parts that can turn the 1.8 into a screamer however.
The 2.8 cannot be much more than it already is , so if you want a engine that you can "juice up" the 2.8 is the wrong choice. Still if you want something that you can just let out the clutch without giving it much gas pedal, the V6 is it. If you want to pull a small camping trailer or small boat, the V6 is it. And it is very, very smooth at high speeds.
As far as engines lasting 100K miles, the naturally aspirated V6 should out live the turbo easily. Still mine only has 25K on it right now, so we will have to wait to find that out.
I drive 50+ miles every day (about 1/2 city and 1/2 highway) and I average about 28 MPG. (from what I calculate from fillups)
Hope this helps
Gator
I wanted some opinions on replacing tires on a 2002 Passat GLX 4Motion sedan. There are 55k miles on the stock MXV4 Plus and they are in need of replacing. National Tire has suggested a 15" tire. Does anyone have the 16" on their Passat and any other suggestions?
Thank you!
There are wheel and tire upgrades available for your Passat.
If YOU DO NOT WANT TO CHANGE WHEELS: you can upgrade nonetheless by a process called "plus zero sizing;" this is the least expensive way to upgrade and improve the performance of your Passat.
Let's just go down this path for a moment --
Assume you have 205 x 55 tires (on whatever size wheels) on your Passat. If this is the case and you do not want to increase the WHEEL SIZE, well you can increase the contact patch and improve the handling by virture of going to a lower profile tire. In this hypothetical example, you could PLUS ZERO size to 225 x 50 (on whatever size wheels) and you would have "more rubber on the road" and almost certainly a stiffer sidewall -- the car's handling would improve as a result. And, with plus zero sizing you get many of the benefits of plus 1 sizing (which means you increased your wheel size by 1"). If you go to a one inch diameter larger wheel you can plus 1 size and probably plus zero size on the new wheel, giving you in effect a double benefit. Tread width would increase, aspect ratio would decrease and wheel diameter would also increase -- the effect would be yet another improvement in handling.
I have no affiliation with these folks, but you can get a TON of education about the above and other subjects on line @ www.tirerack.com!
At the very least, I would plus zero and depending on where you live, I would certainly consider Ultra High Performance All Season tires (unless you have no winter whatsoever). Yoko AVS db2 or Conti Extreme or Mich Pilot Sport A/S's all qualify. Of course if you live where there is heavy heavy winter, these tires are probably not ok, but if you do not currently have dedicated winter and summer tires, these tires are the best year round choices I have ever used, personally.
Drive it like you live.
PS the National Tire people sound, um, er, ah -- "less than" you deserve, yeah, that's it -- "less than" you need.
From prior VW experience, I have found that the dealers LOVE to do lots of work under warrantee (and then charge that back to VW). I stopped going to VW dealers for service and lo & behold! the "nagging problems" went away. COMPLETELY.
Change your oil often, remember to replace timing belt, etc (all your normal maintenance stuff) and your VW should last a LONG LONG time.
I bought a 2003 Passat GLX V6 Automatic a month ago. I live in LA and have been averaging 13-14 mpg in city driving, not driving the car hard. Is everyone having this issue, or is it just because the car is too new?
I have tried both 87 and 91 octane gas, so that is not it...
I am getting really bad gas mileage. Bought a V6 Passat 1 month ago, have put 1K miles on the car and have averaged 13-14 mpg. I am using 91 octane as this is what is available in LA. I take mostly short trips, and even though I live in LA, I am not sitting in traffic.
What is everyone else experiencing? Does it improve with time?
Thanks
Hopefully, I will have an update soon.
Thanks for your posts.
So let me ask this board: is that true? Is this a good reason not to get a Passat? (I'm in a Midwestern, non-urban area, although there is a VW dealer near where I work). Thanks!