Had good luck with them on my Jeep. Little more expensive, but seemed to clean a little better than stock. Don't really remember how they were on longevity
My battery acted a little weak and not quite up to it the last few days. 40 Months old. I went ahead and put in an Interstate 5 year warranty one. About $80 bucks with tax and installation. I have to spend the next few days in Mid-Town Manhattan; you don't think a tow and new battery would be expensive there do you? How about in the bowels of a underground parking garage! I'd have to call Paisan over from Staten Island! All kidding aside, the first time I heard it bog down, I knew it was time. Cold weather coming, spend the $$, get it done. Cheers to all!
Had to replace the Panasonic in my '01 LS at 27 months, and I NEVER ran it down due to lights left on, etc. The lifespan of these things seems to be all over the chart. When it starts dragging and you're headed into winter, better just do it!
Paisan, I'll be at the Fitzpatrick on Lex b'twn 56th and 57th. Working in Mid-Town and at the hotel bar hopefully @ 6pm for cocktails. Stop by for a bevy as the Brits say! Cheers!
Ordered a few things from them recently for our '98 Trooper - air filter, pack of engine oil drain plug gaskets. and PCV valve.
I've had a couple prior occasions where the bolt or gaskets I received were not the ones I requested. No big deal, as they have always given me a refund or exchange.
On my most recent order, they sent the wrong pack of gaskets which was disappointing. But the extra 2 air filters more than made up for it!
I'm thinking that these shipping errors are probably occurring at the distribution/warehouse when the order is packed, and not when the St. Charles guys are entering the order info.
Just had to tell someone besides my wife about getting 2 free air filters. She wasn't that excited about it.
I ordered a few thing a few months I ordered an air filter 17 bucks and fuel filter, PCV. And to my surprise there was 3 air filters in the Box! score! -Ryan
Yep, they were about $40 cheaper than my local dealer on the fog light kit I got from them a few months ago. I hear you bluedevils- I think some of their inaccuracies happen through the distributer(s). Most items seem to come from the distribution facility in Cincinnati OH. Joel
since when did the 'Maintenance & Repair' portion of the topic name become 'Problems & Solutions'? I know what the content of this forum is, since I've been around it a while. But will the average person know what 'problems & solutions' means? Sure, that's a nicer phrase, but it's also less descriptive, IMO.
My fault for not posting an announcement about the title change. Mea culpa!
The gist of it is the change is to keep it consistent with the other clubs. Also, if you look at the Maintenance & Repair board, most of the Owners P&S topics are now linked there. As for the description, the discussion is now categorized with "Auto Body, Engine, Suspension", which sorta-kinda encompasses a plethora of possible problem scenarios.
If you have any further questions/concerns, please send me an email.
Hmm why didn't the other owners clubs comply with ours? Afterall we were the 2nd owners club here! J/K Not to mention that Maintenance and repairs aren't Problems and solutions. Is there a way to get it changed back? Since it's really totally inaccurite?
I do like "Maintenance and Repairs" better, a very precise description of the topic. "Problems and Solutions" just is too vague, and doesn't seem to allow for preventive maintenance topics that are a big part of the discussion.
I must have jinxed myself by making that 'picky' comment in the previous post.
Just onto freeway, 3 minutes into drive home from work tonight in my 98 Troop w/96k miles and TOD. No problems or changes (tire rotations, fluid changes, etc.) the past few weeks - truck's been fine.
I noticed red "CHECK" flashing at bottom of TOD display, plus lights on the rear wheels in the display also flashing. Any suggestions on what to do?
Drove another 1/2 mile, exit freeway, pull over and shut off engine. Owners manual says it's bad if flashing "CHECK" does not stop flashing 2 seconds after you start truck back up. Mine stayed off, but the rear wheel lights are still flashing.
Back on freeway. Switched to TOD on. With TOD on, the lights all look fine - single bar on front wheels, rear wheels stay lit. Switched TOD off/on a few times but rear wheels still blinking with TOD off so kept TOD on most of the trip home. Shut off engine and restarted at a couple stoplights but that didn't help - rear lights still blinking.
Everything else seemed normal - shifting fine, no funny noises, etc.
Owners manual isn't much help. There's a table that shows what the indicator lights are doing in various drivetrain modes - 2WD, TOD, 4WD Low, and another row that's not labeled. Unlabeled row shows a diagram with flashing lights (front and rear are shown flashing) and says that means "Shift on the Fly system is operating."
For some reason, I recall possibly bumping the gearshift or transfer case lever while reaching for something on the passenger seat.
Any suggestions on what to do? Can an AutoZone pull any codes for me? Should I check the auto trans fluid level or what.
Bluedevils, you didn't say whether you verified that the transfer case was fully engaged in 2H. Even though it may be engaged, you may have nudged the lever enough to throw the sensor alignment off.
this morning I did check that the transfer case was fully engaged in 2High. I engaged back and forth from 2H to 4L a few times and drove a couple hundred yards each time at slow speeds. Truck drives fine in 4Low and also in 2High. But the rear wheels are still flashing when truck is in 2High. With TOD on, the lights are fine.
What type of problem is this likely to be? Is it in the TOD system somewhere (internal part, sensor, etc.), or possibly something to do with a wheel being loose or other rear axle type of thing?
Suggestions on what to do next? Truck is well out of warranty, I know of no knowledgeable shops around here, I'm reluctant to spend big bucks at the dealer, and my own mechanic skills are very limited.
I was considering a tire rotation front to back, in case something's loose with the wheels/tires.
I would think that if there were issues with the rolling circumference of the tires that the TOD display panel will show a problem with TOD engaged. Since you indicate that all modes appear to be operating correctly (including SOFT actuation) except in normal 2WD operation, I suspect a sensor. Sorry, but I don't have a Helms manual to reference / troubleshoot the problem. I would call the dealer to see if they could provide a list of possibilites & a preliminary estimate based on your description of the problem. AZ could also pull a code check but any error codes only come through the PCM. I wish I could be of more assistance.
not sure what you mean about the 'any error codes only come through the PCM.' Can AutoZone pull the code for me? If there's an error code stored for the problem I'm having (there probably is), is it stored in the PCM or is it stored somewhere else?
The CHECK light did come on again today, then went off after I switched TOD on/off a couple times.
For now I'm leaving the TOD on. Do you think I'm risking any damage by continuing to drive it?
AZ can check for codes. I just don't have enough info on what the PCM monitors with respect to the driveline / TOD system (ie: is there a lever position sensor for the High / 4L that may have failed & will register a code on the PCM?). Since there doesn't seem to be a problem while TOD is engaged (no clutch, dissimilar wheel revolution issues), 2WD mode should be okay - but I don't have any manuals that explains the check light condition you have other than the brief statement in the owners manual. What happens when you shift into 4L with the TOD switch depressed...does the check light come on or does it still only occur when entering 2WD mode? If there is a TOD issue, I would think that the check light would flash regardless of mode - maybe not. Someone on this forum may have first hand experience that could provide more assistance.
Not sure if anyone has had this problem, so I thought I'd relate it. I have a 99 S/Perf with 70K miles. Over the past year the Check Trans and Check Engine lights have gone off 3-4 times. Once, a low battery was causing a faulty signal. Another time, a broken piece in the shifter was causing the alarm. Never have I experienced any of the typical signs of transmission problems - no racing engine, slipping gear, grinding, clunking, etc. The light went off again last week, so I took it to the local dealer. Not where I bought it, but where I go for service. Unbeknownst to me, this dealer had just changed hands, and changed service managers. I took it in, explained the problem, and asked them to call me when they pulled the code. An hour or so later, I get a call. Service manager tells me the code was for "contaminated transmission fluid" and that could be very bad. He recommends pulling the transmission pan and checking the magnet in the pan to see if there are metal shavings. It'll cost @$200. I'm skeptical, but I okay it. He calls back later - magnet full of metal shavings. That is really bad. I need a new tranny, at about $4500. Of course, I am very shocked, and skeptical given the no prior symptoms. I ask him to put the car back together and leave it for me.
I then call my wife's family's mechanic (family friend) who I would go to on a normal basis except his shop is 45 miles away. I explain the situation to him, he sounds skeptical as well given the lack of symptoms. He explains the metal shavings could be signs of a deteriorated gear, but he'd be surprised if a new tranny was needed. I bring it in to him, and he looks at it. He discovers the transmission fluid filter is very dirty (should have been changed out at the 60K tuneup, but he says Isuzu doesn't require it) and believes that was the most likely cause of the sensor trigger. He also checks the magnet and says it was clean - the dealer could have cleaned it, but if so, they did the best job he has ever seen. He takes my Trooper out for a spin, says it's shifting fine, and pronounces a clean bill of health (with the proviso that we won't know for sure unless we take the tranny apart).
Moral of this story - much like in Vegas, if the dealer changes, leave...
Light behavior still the same - display looks fine in TOD, rear wheels still flash in 2WD.
Stopped at AutoZone yesterday and they hooked up their scanner to the (PCM?) computer - the one left of steering wheel in front of driver's left knee. No codes.
Hopefully I'll have time tonight to swap out the TOD fluid, though I doubt that will help.
Is it possible that TOD is fine, but it isn't disengaging? So in 2wd you are getting flashing, but you never are shifting out of TOD? Maybe the actuator (which has been discussed here and other boards) is stuck?
interesting theory. seems plausible. i don't recall the actuator being discussed, but i'll do another search of this forum and the Isuzu Trooper forum. I'll have to drive around with the TOD turned off and see if it feels/sounds like TOD is actually off or on. The blinking rear wheel TOD lights make me nervous, so I've left TOD on.
IIRC, Paisan mentioned that his actuator / TOD was fully engaged full-time last winter but I don't recall that he mentioned the check light you are seeing.
the old (my 1984 and 1995) Troopers needed to change direction to go in or out of 4wd. Maybe the Trooper that seems to always only be happy in TOD needs to be driven back and forth a few yards a few times to make sure there is no load left on the disengaging parts so they do their job. Just a thought from someone with no TOD experience.
I didn't check very closely, but it sounded like the TOD actually was off when the TOD button was turned off while I ran some errands in our Trooper today.
I just finished (at 3am Michigan time!) draining the TOD fluid and refilling (used Mobil1 synthetic ATF, same as last time). Our truck's at 96,735 miles. Doubtful that the change will make the rear-wheel lights in the TOD display stop flashing, but we'll see. My previous records show I added 1-29/32 quarts (almost 2 qts) last time I changed at 63,180. Strangely, I drained 2-6/32 qts tonight, which is more than 1/4 qt more than I added last time and well above the spec. Not sure where the extra fluid is coming from. Maybe my math or documentation is off.
Also drained and refilled front and rear differentials tonight. Used Mobil1 75W90 synthetic gear lube, even though my owners manual specifies something thicker for the rear diffy if temps are regularly above 60 deg F. I figure the Mobil1 is excellent stuff and better than a thicker conventional gear lube even at higher temperatures.
Front took only 1-11/32 qts before pouring back out of fill plug, even though that's less than the 1.5 qt spec. And I drained 1-18/32 qts, even though my records show I added only 1-12/32 qts last time. At least the math did add up for the rear differential - 3-1/4 qts drained which is exactly what I added last time.
I usually post on the Trooper board, but I guess it's better to do it here?
Anyway, seems that the key is stuck in the ignition. I think that there was a TSB for this but was wondering if this was a common problem. Has this happened to anyone? If so, is it an easy fix to switch out the ignition switch? And does anyone know if there's a manual for this year, as I've only seen them for the pre 97 models.
Also, the cruise control sometimes resumes itself even when the main cruise control switch is off. Bad switch or something else?
I am not sure Autozone can read TOD codes. I think they can only read OBDII codes. AFAIK OBDII is primarily designed to standardize the reading of codes related to engine operation (i.e. pollution control related).
Like Troop2shos indicated, I am thinking the TOD unit is even controlled by a separate computer, the one under the passenger seat. I am also thinking you can read the TOD codes by shorting some terminals. If so that may help you further diagnose your problem. If you can wait a couple of weeks I can get my jointly owned Helm's manual back from its co-owner and try to confirm this.
I ran a few errands, about 10 miles total, after changing the TOD, front differential, and rear differential fluids. The TOD lights were displaying normally - no more "CHECK" warning and no more blinking rear-wheel lights. I hope the problem was with the old fluid - specifically, too much of it. I'm not sure how 2-6/32 qts came out, since my records show only 1-29/32 qts added last time. And I'm not sure why the light came on last week, since I had driven more than a year since changing the fluid and had no warning lights or problems. I just hope the problems don't return.
Although the original problem seems to be taken care of, I'll pass this along just in case it comes up again with someone else as another item to consider during their evaluation of the issue...
I've noticed that I can make my TOD flash for approximately two minutes before it goes off by itself. I did this by shifting into 2W-Low - just to check its operation (not geared too low by the way...). I noticed either during the period I was in 2-Lo or definitely immediately after shifting back to 2-Hi the TOD display would blink on my rear wheels. If I shifted into 4WD - the blinking stopped immediately, but as soon as I went out of 4WD - the blinking started again. The unnerving thing was that the blinking stayed on even in 2-Hi for about 2 minutes - then shut itself off - although from the feel, I'd clearly been in 2-Hi from moment I shifted into it.
blinking when changing... Also could be due to tires of greater than 1/4" circumference difference. This will throw off the TOD sensors. I had this on my truck once, turned out 1 of my tires (that I had replaced due to an irrepairable problem) was from a different lot than the other 3 and was off by 1/4"
Well I have a stepsister to the Isuzu Rodeo, it has an Isuzu Engine 3.2 liter. I bought the Suv New and at 7500 miles started having an engine ping. I was advised by Dealership to try a higher octane fuel which I did for several months but did not solve the problem and here is what happened:
A. I took suv to the dealership complaining about ping. at 13,600mi. A reprogram of the PCM was done according to the latest bulletin.
B. At 13,660mi I took back to dealership because it was still pinging. I was told it normally takes 200-300 miles to adjust to my driving and reset itself.
C. At 15,063mi (enough miles huh?!) still pinging. Dealership cleaned the top of the engine said apparently the timing was off at the factory and allowed carbon to build up so they cleaned the injectors and intake valves. Told the computer reset should have corrected the problem but the carbon was on the engine. This should take care of the cause and effect.
D. At 15590mi once the engine got up to running temperature it started pinging bad I called the Service Manager immediately and was told all sorts of things (could be Bad rocker arm, EGR bad, Hole in intake valve etc.) Told new PCM update in works will call when get.
E. When I took my Suv in they kept it for a week and said they replaced the 02(Oxygen) sensor and reprogrammed the computer.
F. When I went to pick it up I was told still had a ping and a 4th version of the PCM update was coming out that they wanted to install.
G. Three and one half months later I finally got the call for the 4th update. It was installed. I was told the ping would subside in about 500-600 miles once the carbon burned off.
H. Still pings. Called BBB. I got final repair with engineer. He changed computer, cleaned engine, changed spark plugs and changed oil. Lasted 4 or 5 months starting to ping again. What now? I am at 34,500 miles.
from what I've heard, these engines tend to do that. Higher-octane gas usually reduces or eliminates the pinging, but I do not believe it is necessary. If your engine is properly maintained, the pinging should not indicate any sort of problem except for the fact that it can be a very annoying noise to some folks.
The 3.2L in our old '96 Trooper pinged plenty during acceleration, and so does the 3.5L on our '98 Trooper. I just live with it.
FWIW - Once again it's Winter, and the Gasoline blend has changed, and for the forth year in a row my Trooper is pinging. It can be annoying, but it always goes away when the Spring/Summer blend comes back. If it's really bugging you, pursue the possibility of the Lemon Law. I'm also assuming it's still under warranty, which could help your case.
My story is simular to yours. took my 2000 Amigo (3.2) in at about 13k, there was no PCM upgrade and was told I had bad gas or needed a higher octane. I then started to run a bottle of Chevron Techron Concentrate about 500 miles before each oil change and run mid grade gas, which pretty much keeps it away. I went to the dealer a few more times and they said I would have to live with it. So I wrote a note to BBB and a few months later I got a letter from Isuzu with a copy of a couple of pages from the owner manual that states that pinging is normal under heavy acceleration.
The Techron and mid gas really seems to help to keep the ping away. My previous truck (S10) started to Ping at 80k, and I sold it at 180K and it still ran great. -Ryan
sometimes the brand of gas can also make a difference.
As sugested also, a fuel additive can help, I use the Amsoil PI, as well as the Schaeffers Oil Neutra gas additive. Never have had a injector or pinging issue opn any cars inluding the 3.2L Rodeo. I use the 89 octane on that as well.
Well this may muddy the waters a little, but my previous vehicle was a 97 Blazer, and many 4.3Ls had pinging problems. The head mechanic at the dealer told me to never go above 87 octane, as the higher octanes actually increase the deposition rate of carbon in the engine.
In other words, the higher octane might reduce pinging in the short term, but would actually increase it in the long term.
He told me to use the Techron and stick with 87 octane, and it actually worked pretty well.
Now what I don't know is, is this advice universally applicable, or are the pinging and carbon deposition characteristics of the 4.3L somehow different from the 3.5L.
I've heard the same thing before - using higher octane gas may make the pinging disappear, but it can be bad for the engine (I don't recall exactly how) and is therefore not advisable. This advice was general in nature and not specific to any engine, engine family, vehicle brand, etc.
Comments
-mike
-mike
-Dave
I'll be at the Fitzpatrick on Lex b'twn 56th and 57th. Working in Mid-Town and at the hotel bar hopefully @ 6pm for cocktails. Stop by for a bevy as the Brits say! Cheers!
98 passport (EX) / rodeo (LS), 3.2L / V-6 ?
To clarify, how hot (temp) is pegging the "H" ???
Has not happened, just curious.
Thank You.
I've had a couple prior occasions where the bolt or gaskets I received were not the ones I requested. No big deal, as they have always given me a refund or exchange.
On my most recent order, they sent the wrong pack of gaskets which was disappointing. But the extra 2 air filters more than made up for it!
I'm thinking that these shipping errors are probably occurring at the distribution/warehouse when the order is packed, and not when the St. Charles guys are entering the order info.
Just had to tell someone besides my wife about getting 2 free air filters. She wasn't that excited about it.
Joel
-mike
The gist of it is the change is to keep it consistent with the other clubs. Also, if you look at the Maintenance & Repair board, most of the Owners P&S topics are now linked there. As for the description, the discussion is now categorized with "Auto Body, Engine, Suspension", which sorta-kinda encompasses a plethora of possible problem scenarios.
If you have any further questions/concerns, please send me an email.
-mike
Not a big deal really, but there is my two cents.
Just onto freeway, 3 minutes into drive home from work tonight in my 98 Troop w/96k miles and TOD. No problems or changes (tire rotations, fluid changes, etc.) the past few weeks - truck's been fine.
I noticed red "CHECK" flashing at bottom of TOD display, plus lights on the rear wheels in the display also flashing. Any suggestions on what to do?
Drove another 1/2 mile, exit freeway, pull over and shut off engine. Owners manual says it's bad if flashing "CHECK" does not stop flashing 2 seconds after you start truck back up. Mine stayed off, but the rear wheel lights are still flashing.
Back on freeway. Switched to TOD on. With TOD on, the lights all look fine - single bar on front wheels, rear wheels stay lit. Switched TOD off/on a few times but rear wheels still blinking with TOD off so kept TOD on most of the trip home. Shut off engine and restarted at a couple stoplights but that didn't help - rear lights still blinking.
Everything else seemed normal - shifting fine, no funny noises, etc.
Owners manual isn't much help. There's a table that shows what the indicator lights are doing in various drivetrain modes - 2WD, TOD, 4WD Low, and another row that's not labeled. Unlabeled row shows a diagram with flashing lights (front and rear are shown flashing) and says that means "Shift on the Fly system is operating."
For some reason, I recall possibly bumping the gearshift or transfer case lever while reaching for something on the passenger seat.
Any suggestions on what to do? Can an AutoZone pull any codes for me? Should I check the auto trans fluid level or what.
What type of problem is this likely to be? Is it in the TOD system somewhere (internal part, sensor, etc.), or possibly something to do with a wheel being loose or other rear axle type of thing?
Suggestions on what to do next? Truck is well out of warranty, I know of no knowledgeable shops around here, I'm reluctant to spend big bucks at the dealer, and my own mechanic skills are very limited.
I was considering a tire rotation front to back, in case something's loose with the wheels/tires.
I wish I could be of more assistance.
The CHECK light did come on again today, then went off after I switched TOD on/off a couple times.
For now I'm leaving the TOD on. Do you think I'm risking any damage by continuing to drive it?
-mike
I then call my wife's family's mechanic (family friend) who I would go to on a normal basis except his shop is 45 miles away. I explain the situation to him, he sounds skeptical as well given the lack of symptoms. He explains the metal shavings could be signs of a deteriorated gear, but he'd be surprised if a new tranny was needed. I bring it in to him, and he looks at it. He discovers the transmission fluid filter is very dirty (should have been changed out at the 60K tuneup, but he says Isuzu doesn't require it) and believes that was the most likely cause of the sensor trigger. He also checks the magnet and says it was clean - the dealer could have cleaned it, but if so, they did the best job he has ever seen. He takes my Trooper out for a spin, says it's shifting fine, and pronounces a clean bill of health (with the proviso that we won't know for sure unless we take the tranny apart).
Moral of this story - much like in Vegas, if the dealer changes, leave...
-mike
-mike
Stopped at AutoZone yesterday and they hooked up their scanner to the (PCM?) computer - the one left of steering wheel in front of driver's left knee. No codes.
Hopefully I'll have time tonight to swap out the TOD fluid, though I doubt that will help.
Still looking for feedback...
-mike
I just finished (at 3am Michigan time!) draining the TOD fluid and refilling (used Mobil1 synthetic ATF, same as last time). Our truck's at 96,735 miles. Doubtful that the change will make the rear-wheel lights in the TOD display stop flashing, but we'll see. My previous records show I added 1-29/32 quarts (almost 2 qts) last time I changed at 63,180. Strangely, I drained 2-6/32 qts tonight, which is more than 1/4 qt more than I added last time and well above the spec. Not sure where the extra fluid is coming from. Maybe my math or documentation is off.
Also drained and refilled front and rear differentials tonight. Used Mobil1 75W90 synthetic gear lube, even though my owners manual specifies something thicker for the rear diffy if temps are regularly above 60 deg F. I figure the Mobil1 is excellent stuff and better than a thicker conventional gear lube even at higher temperatures.
Front took only 1-11/32 qts before pouring back out of fill plug, even though that's less than the 1.5 qt spec. And I drained 1-18/32 qts, even though my records show I added only 1-12/32 qts last time. At least the math did add up for the rear differential - 3-1/4 qts drained which is exactly what I added last time.
Anyway, seems that the key is stuck in the ignition. I think that there was a TSB for this but was wondering if this was a common problem. Has this happened to anyone? If so, is it an easy fix to switch out the ignition switch? And does anyone know if there's a manual for this year, as I've only seen them for the pre 97 models.
Also, the cruise control sometimes resumes itself even when the main cruise control switch is off. Bad switch or something else?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Like Troop2shos indicated, I am thinking the TOD unit is even controlled by a separate computer, the one under the passenger seat. I am also thinking you can read the TOD codes by shorting some terminals. If so that may help you further diagnose your problem. If you can wait a couple of weeks I can get my jointly owned Helm's manual back from its co-owner and try to confirm this.
I've noticed that I can make my TOD flash for approximately two minutes before it goes off by itself. I did this by shifting into 2W-Low - just to check its operation (not geared too low by the way...). I noticed either during the period I was in 2-Lo or definitely immediately after shifting back to 2-Hi the TOD display would blink on my rear wheels. If I shifted into 4WD - the blinking stopped immediately, but as soon as I went out of 4WD - the blinking started again. The unnerving thing was that the blinking stayed on even in 2-Hi for about 2 minutes - then shut itself off - although from the feel, I'd clearly been in 2-Hi from moment I shifted into it.
Just food for thought in the future...
-mike
A. I took suv to the dealership complaining about ping. at 13,600mi. A reprogram of the PCM was done according to the latest bulletin.
B. At 13,660mi I took back to dealership because it was still pinging. I was told it normally takes 200-300 miles to adjust to my driving and reset itself.
C. At 15,063mi (enough miles huh?!) still pinging. Dealership cleaned the top of the engine said apparently the timing was off at the factory and allowed carbon to build up so they cleaned the injectors and intake valves. Told the computer reset should have corrected the problem but the carbon was on the engine. This should take care of the cause and effect.
D. At 15590mi once the engine got up to running temperature it started pinging bad I called the Service Manager immediately and was told all sorts of things (could be Bad rocker arm, EGR bad, Hole in intake valve etc.) Told new PCM update in works will call when get.
E. When I took my Suv in they kept it for a week and said they replaced the 02(Oxygen) sensor and reprogrammed the computer.
F. When I went to pick it up I was told still had a ping and a 4th version of the PCM update was coming out that they wanted to install.
G. Three and one half months later I finally got the call for the 4th update. It was installed. I was told the ping would subside in about 500-600 miles once the carbon burned off.
H. Still pings. Called BBB. I got final repair with engineer. He changed computer, cleaned engine, changed spark plugs and changed oil. Lasted 4 or 5 months starting to ping again. What now? I am at 34,500 miles.
The 3.2L in our old '96 Trooper pinged plenty during acceleration, and so does the 3.5L on our '98 Trooper. I just live with it.
FWIW - Once again it's Winter, and the Gasoline blend has changed, and for the forth year in a row my Trooper is pinging. It can be annoying, but it always goes away when the Spring/Summer blend comes back. If it's really bugging you, pursue the possibility of the Lemon Law. I'm also assuming it's still under warranty, which could help your case.
The Techron and mid gas really seems to help to keep the ping away. My previous truck (S10) started to Ping at 80k, and I sold it at 180K and it still ran great.
-Ryan
As sugested also, a fuel additive can help, I use the Amsoil PI, as well as the Schaeffers Oil Neutra gas additive. Never have had a injector or pinging issue opn any cars inluding the 3.2L Rodeo. I use the 89 octane on that as well.
In other words, the higher octane might reduce pinging in the short term, but would actually increase it in the long term.
He told me to use the Techron and stick with 87 octane, and it actually worked pretty well.
Now what I don't know is, is this advice universally applicable, or are the pinging and carbon deposition characteristics of the 4.3L somehow different from the 3.5L.