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Comments
-mike
-mike
-Dave
I'll be at the Fitzpatrick on Lex b'twn 56th and 57th. Working in Mid-Town and at the hotel bar hopefully @ 6pm for cocktails. Stop by for a bevy as the Brits say! Cheers!
98 passport (EX) / rodeo (LS), 3.2L / V-6 ?
To clarify, how hot (temp) is pegging the "H" ???
Has not happened, just curious.
Thank You.
I've had a couple prior occasions where the bolt or gaskets I received were not the ones I requested. No big deal, as they have always given me a refund or exchange.
On my most recent order, they sent the wrong pack of gaskets which was disappointing. But the extra 2 air filters more than made up for it!
I'm thinking that these shipping errors are probably occurring at the distribution/warehouse when the order is packed, and not when the St. Charles guys are entering the order info.
Just had to tell someone besides my wife about getting 2 free air filters. She wasn't that excited about it.
Joel
-mike
The gist of it is the change is to keep it consistent with the other clubs. Also, if you look at the Maintenance & Repair board, most of the Owners P&S topics are now linked there. As for the description, the discussion is now categorized with "Auto Body, Engine, Suspension", which sorta-kinda encompasses a plethora of possible problem scenarios.
If you have any further questions/concerns, please send me an email.
-mike
Not a big deal really, but there is my two cents.
Just onto freeway, 3 minutes into drive home from work tonight in my 98 Troop w/96k miles and TOD. No problems or changes (tire rotations, fluid changes, etc.) the past few weeks - truck's been fine.
I noticed red "CHECK" flashing at bottom of TOD display, plus lights on the rear wheels in the display also flashing. Any suggestions on what to do?
Drove another 1/2 mile, exit freeway, pull over and shut off engine. Owners manual says it's bad if flashing "CHECK" does not stop flashing 2 seconds after you start truck back up. Mine stayed off, but the rear wheel lights are still flashing.
Back on freeway. Switched to TOD on. With TOD on, the lights all look fine - single bar on front wheels, rear wheels stay lit. Switched TOD off/on a few times but rear wheels still blinking with TOD off so kept TOD on most of the trip home. Shut off engine and restarted at a couple stoplights but that didn't help - rear lights still blinking.
Everything else seemed normal - shifting fine, no funny noises, etc.
Owners manual isn't much help. There's a table that shows what the indicator lights are doing in various drivetrain modes - 2WD, TOD, 4WD Low, and another row that's not labeled. Unlabeled row shows a diagram with flashing lights (front and rear are shown flashing) and says that means "Shift on the Fly system is operating."
For some reason, I recall possibly bumping the gearshift or transfer case lever while reaching for something on the passenger seat.
Any suggestions on what to do? Can an AutoZone pull any codes for me? Should I check the auto trans fluid level or what.
What type of problem is this likely to be? Is it in the TOD system somewhere (internal part, sensor, etc.), or possibly something to do with a wheel being loose or other rear axle type of thing?
Suggestions on what to do next? Truck is well out of warranty, I know of no knowledgeable shops around here, I'm reluctant to spend big bucks at the dealer, and my own mechanic skills are very limited.
I was considering a tire rotation front to back, in case something's loose with the wheels/tires.
I wish I could be of more assistance.
The CHECK light did come on again today, then went off after I switched TOD on/off a couple times.
For now I'm leaving the TOD on. Do you think I'm risking any damage by continuing to drive it?
-mike
I then call my wife's family's mechanic (family friend) who I would go to on a normal basis except his shop is 45 miles away. I explain the situation to him, he sounds skeptical as well given the lack of symptoms. He explains the metal shavings could be signs of a deteriorated gear, but he'd be surprised if a new tranny was needed. I bring it in to him, and he looks at it. He discovers the transmission fluid filter is very dirty (should have been changed out at the 60K tuneup, but he says Isuzu doesn't require it) and believes that was the most likely cause of the sensor trigger. He also checks the magnet and says it was clean - the dealer could have cleaned it, but if so, they did the best job he has ever seen. He takes my Trooper out for a spin, says it's shifting fine, and pronounces a clean bill of health (with the proviso that we won't know for sure unless we take the tranny apart).
Moral of this story - much like in Vegas, if the dealer changes, leave...
-mike
-mike
Stopped at AutoZone yesterday and they hooked up their scanner to the (PCM?) computer - the one left of steering wheel in front of driver's left knee. No codes.
Hopefully I'll have time tonight to swap out the TOD fluid, though I doubt that will help.
Still looking for feedback...
-mike
I just finished (at 3am Michigan time!) draining the TOD fluid and refilling (used Mobil1 synthetic ATF, same as last time). Our truck's at 96,735 miles. Doubtful that the change will make the rear-wheel lights in the TOD display stop flashing, but we'll see. My previous records show I added 1-29/32 quarts (almost 2 qts) last time I changed at 63,180. Strangely, I drained 2-6/32 qts tonight, which is more than 1/4 qt more than I added last time and well above the spec. Not sure where the extra fluid is coming from. Maybe my math or documentation is off.
Also drained and refilled front and rear differentials tonight. Used Mobil1 75W90 synthetic gear lube, even though my owners manual specifies something thicker for the rear diffy if temps are regularly above 60 deg F. I figure the Mobil1 is excellent stuff and better than a thicker conventional gear lube even at higher temperatures.
Front took only 1-11/32 qts before pouring back out of fill plug, even though that's less than the 1.5 qt spec. And I drained 1-18/32 qts, even though my records show I added only 1-12/32 qts last time. At least the math did add up for the rear differential - 3-1/4 qts drained which is exactly what I added last time.
Anyway, seems that the key is stuck in the ignition. I think that there was a TSB for this but was wondering if this was a common problem. Has this happened to anyone? If so, is it an easy fix to switch out the ignition switch? And does anyone know if there's a manual for this year, as I've only seen them for the pre 97 models.
Also, the cruise control sometimes resumes itself even when the main cruise control switch is off. Bad switch or something else?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Like Troop2shos indicated, I am thinking the TOD unit is even controlled by a separate computer, the one under the passenger seat. I am also thinking you can read the TOD codes by shorting some terminals. If so that may help you further diagnose your problem. If you can wait a couple of weeks I can get my jointly owned Helm's manual back from its co-owner and try to confirm this.
I've noticed that I can make my TOD flash for approximately two minutes before it goes off by itself. I did this by shifting into 2W-Low - just to check its operation (not geared too low by the way...). I noticed either during the period I was in 2-Lo or definitely immediately after shifting back to 2-Hi the TOD display would blink on my rear wheels. If I shifted into 4WD - the blinking stopped immediately, but as soon as I went out of 4WD - the blinking started again. The unnerving thing was that the blinking stayed on even in 2-Hi for about 2 minutes - then shut itself off - although from the feel, I'd clearly been in 2-Hi from moment I shifted into it.
Just food for thought in the future...
-mike
A. I took suv to the dealership complaining about ping. at 13,600mi. A reprogram of the PCM was done according to the latest bulletin.
B. At 13,660mi I took back to dealership because it was still pinging. I was told it normally takes 200-300 miles to adjust to my driving and reset itself.
C. At 15,063mi (enough miles huh?!) still pinging. Dealership cleaned the top of the engine said apparently the timing was off at the factory and allowed carbon to build up so they cleaned the injectors and intake valves. Told the computer reset should have corrected the problem but the carbon was on the engine. This should take care of the cause and effect.
D. At 15590mi once the engine got up to running temperature it started pinging bad I called the Service Manager immediately and was told all sorts of things (could be Bad rocker arm, EGR bad, Hole in intake valve etc.) Told new PCM update in works will call when get.
E. When I took my Suv in they kept it for a week and said they replaced the 02(Oxygen) sensor and reprogrammed the computer.
F. When I went to pick it up I was told still had a ping and a 4th version of the PCM update was coming out that they wanted to install.
G. Three and one half months later I finally got the call for the 4th update. It was installed. I was told the ping would subside in about 500-600 miles once the carbon burned off.
H. Still pings. Called BBB. I got final repair with engineer. He changed computer, cleaned engine, changed spark plugs and changed oil. Lasted 4 or 5 months starting to ping again. What now? I am at 34,500 miles.
The 3.2L in our old '96 Trooper pinged plenty during acceleration, and so does the 3.5L on our '98 Trooper. I just live with it.
FWIW - Once again it's Winter, and the Gasoline blend has changed, and for the forth year in a row my Trooper is pinging. It can be annoying, but it always goes away when the Spring/Summer blend comes back. If it's really bugging you, pursue the possibility of the Lemon Law. I'm also assuming it's still under warranty, which could help your case.
The Techron and mid gas really seems to help to keep the ping away. My previous truck (S10) started to Ping at 80k, and I sold it at 180K and it still ran great.
-Ryan
As sugested also, a fuel additive can help, I use the Amsoil PI, as well as the Schaeffers Oil Neutra gas additive. Never have had a injector or pinging issue opn any cars inluding the 3.2L Rodeo. I use the 89 octane on that as well.
In other words, the higher octane might reduce pinging in the short term, but would actually increase it in the long term.
He told me to use the Techron and stick with 87 octane, and it actually worked pretty well.
Now what I don't know is, is this advice universally applicable, or are the pinging and carbon deposition characteristics of the 4.3L somehow different from the 3.5L.