Just a quick question. If this is considered part of emissions, isn't it under warranty? I though emissions went longer than the 3 yrs 36,000 mile warranty.
It isn't listed in the owner's manual, nor the service manual. I have problems with finding the warranty manual. The information I found online is vary vague, stating major emission control components has 8year/80k miles warranty. However, what are the major components? Called America Honda, and the lady told me that catalytic converter is under the extended warranty. She couldn't tell me anything else other than telling me to go to the dealers.
The previous comment about the O2 sensor being part of the emission system should solve your problem. It is! Take it to the dealer. They'll probably want to charge for reading the code, but from then on it should be covered.
The previous poster is correct. My sisters honda accord O2 sensor went bad after she had it for about 5 years and it was replaced free of charge. I surprised that the dealership didn't know that it was covered.
After reading your post, I went to another Curry Honda dealer, and the service representative told me that O2 sensor (A/F sensor) is 3/36 warranty only. I told him that someone I know had his car’s O2 sensor replaced under warranty at 50K miles. He said it must be a 95, 96 or 97 Accord. Those are the only cars have extended emission warranty up to 150K miles. Still haven’t given up after coming back home, and finally found the emissions warranties parts list in Honda Owner Link website. However, It lists O2 sensor and A/F sensor for Federal 3/36 and CA 3/50. The only parts that have extended warranty are Catalytic Converter, Engine Control Module/Powertrain Control Module, and Throttle Actuator Control Module under 8/80. I am really not sure if it is just a 2005 thing. Two dealers and a lady at America Honda Motor told me the same thing. I really don’t know how you guys could make them cover the O2 sensor. Thanks for your help though.
I just got back from the dealer where they verified that my check engine light revealed that the Catalytic Converter needed to be replaced. My vehicle was 1500 miles past the 80k mile warranty. I had received something in the mail that I kept about a class action suite related to an odometer settlement. I called the toll free number there, gave them my vin number and discovered that there was 5% add on to the warranty pushing coverage up to 84K miles. I'm covered
This applies to Honda or Acura mode year 2002 to 2006 or 2007 Honda Fit. Details can be found at http://www.odosettlementinfo.com or call Honda at 888-888-3082. This extends all of your warranty contracts by 5%.
The key is when you go to the dealer make sure they consult the original warranty department and not just run against your extended warranty which doesn't cover the converter
It must be more than the95'- 97's as I just talked to my sister and she has a 2000 accord V6 and she said that there was a recall on it and that's how she got it replaced free.
I just changed the air filter in my 2007 CR-V at 32,184 miles today (July 6th, 2008). I figured it'd be easy and my little brother's friend showed me how easy it was.
I had also wanted to change the cabin air filter (i had ordered both an air filter and a cabin air filter from HandA).
Now with the cabin air filter, bobintampa's reply (post# 5860 in this thread) to dmathew347's question has a YouTube vid but it's for the version of the CR-V before my CR-V (a 7th generation? with mine being an 8th generation?). I will look around YouTube and see if I can find a vid on mine but I only have 1 cabin filter and looking at this vid (for the 02-06 CR-V) they seem to be working with 2 cabin air filters. I wonder if the '07 might only need one of these now.. or should I have bought 2 cabin air filters when I placed my order from HandA.
You only need one, it's behind the lower glove box. Just pop the rod off on the lower right side and pinch the sides in and he glove box will swing down. Just above the blower motor is a tray that the filter is in.
Thanks yankeefan2. to add on a helpful note: once you get the glove box down following your pinch the sides instructions, to get the actual tray out, you have to squeeze the sides there too and pull. Now my dad's '07 CR-V's got a nice new cabin air filter and an air filter in there. I should be good for... 30k miles I believe.
Have your dealer replace the filter when this service is indicated by a maintenance message on the information display. It should be replaced every 15,000 miles (24,000 km) if you drive primarily in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the air, or if the flow from the heating and cooling system becomes less than usual.
Thanks yankeefan2. Perhaps I should notify edmunds that they should update their recommendation on the 2007 CR-V maintenance to have the air filter (this is the dust and pollen filter right?) changed every 15k miles. The other air filter is 30k miles though?
You can be the judge on both filters now. Since you just changed them "How dirty were they" You might live in a area where there is "clean air" and can wait for the 30K change. That's the best thing about doing your own maintenance you can be the judge. Sometime when you check it at 15K it may need to be changed, or maybe it can go to 30K
I've had my CRV for a month now. I've heard several suggestions regarding the first oil change for a new car/truck. When should the first oil change be done on a brand new Honda CRV LX?
Honda is clear on when to do the first oil change: when the maintenance minder tells you it's time, or at 12 months if it hasn't indicated it's time by then. Honda uses a break-in oil that it wants kept in the engine for several thousand miles.
Yes, "old school" types say change after 1,000 miles, and every 3K miles after that. They, apparently, don't believe that engines and oils have improved over time. They have.
The only good argument I can think of to change the oil every 3K miles is if you drive on dirt roads or are determined to keep the car for 300K miles.
Even the dealers aren't clear on this. On my new 2007 Civic EX, the dealer had a reminder sticker on the windshield to change it at 3,950 miles. I decided to do it after 4 months and 5,400 miles. At that time the computer said I had 30% life in the oil.
That's pretty much in line with how I handled my '97 Accord which I kept for 10 years trading in at 167,000 miles and not one engine repair other than Honda recommended maintenance at each 30,000 mile increment.
Hi all, just a few questions if this happened to anybody.
Lights left on a 2003 CRV EX...boost started, as it wouldn't on it's own. Radio no longer works and displays "ErrE" on front--as if something is stuck, i.e., cd or tape jammed in--which is not this situation. I tried entering the "code" for the anti-theft, but the radio/deck won't accept anything. I haven't tried to disconnect the battery yet and hope things reset themselves (I know the radio code)--maybe tommorrow.
Ques. 1) Anybody experience this? 2) If the radio is defective, and assuming the OEM is stupid expensive, which CD/radio/iPod ready system would fit best. 3) any idea how to remove the original radio? How does the plastic "snap" in? etc.
I bought a CR-V in January. So far the oil life is still 40%. Yesterday, I got a voice message from my dealer reminding me to schedule a service. I was kind of confused, since the manual suggested that I only need to follow the service reminder on the panel. Shall I schedule a service now?
It's reasonable, I think, to believe that auto dealers aren't happy about the trend that keeps extending service schedules. So, one continues to hear dealers recommend 3,000 mile oil changes, while Honda recommends something else.
I have a 2005 Honda CR-V LX 2WD, and an engine light came on. AutoZone gave me a code of P0135, stating that O2 sensor in bank 1 is having problems. In my car’s service manual, it has a name of A/F sensor. None of the local auto parts store carries this O2 sensor. Dealership told me it costs about $280, and I need to pay in front to order it. A Honda auto parts web site is selling it for about $200. Other websites says they have universal O2 sensor for my car, which costs about $50. But this universal part has no connector. My question is what is the difference between an OEM O2 sensor and a universal O2 sensor. Is it a good idea to use a universal O2 sensor besides the cost factor? How easy is it to re-use the existing connector? The original O2 sensor is from Denso, but I can’t find its part number. Anyone has an idea what the part number for the original O2 sensor? Thanks in advance for all the help. Byron
Why not take up Honda on the 8 years emissions warranty?
Two dealers I went to told me that it is under 3/36 warranty but not 8/80 warranty. I checked my emissions warranty on Honda Owner Link, and it said the same thing that O2 sensor has 3/36 warranty only. I wish I could use it under 8 years emissions warranty. Anyway, I bought the o2 sensor for $210 and spent 10 minutes to replace it. I think it is not bad comparing what dealer was asking for, which was $400.
I have a 2006 CR-V EX. It has lost oil since it was new, and not just a little. I add a half quart about every thousand miles depending on how I drive it, more for freeway use, less for around town. I don't see any smoke; nor do I see any drips in the garage. I use the recommended 5-20 oil (although I no longer use Honda oil at $6+ per quart!). The car now has about 38K miles and otherwise runs great. When I took it to the dealer, they were going to keep it for three days to test oil loss. I passed. I have until 2010 to have it inspected by NJ and, at that time, I might see that the oil is being burned -- via emissions testing. I also have a 100K extended warranty. any thoughts out there?
Using a little oil is okay, and actually beneficial for the engine, but there are limits.
If your oil usage has remained constant, that's a good sign, but if the oil consumption is slowly slumping mile after mile, that is continually dropping over the ensuing months, that could indicate a problem.
Some engines naturally use oil--you'll hardly find a Subaru Outback that doesn't. But right around 1,500 miles on a quart is MORE than enough to tolerate.
There's really not much you can do besides watch it. The manufacturer will not warranty oil consumption of 2,000 miles on a quart. It would probably have to drop below 1,000 miles on a quart.
Oil burning of this nature won't effect emissions testing.
That's a big help, psychologically anyway! I've been driving since 1979 and only my first two cars (a '66 Impala and a '68 Beetle) used oil. My '81 Rabbit Diesel, '86 Jetta Diesel, '86 Toyota Celeca, '89 Toyota Tercel, '93 Mazda 626, '98 Mazda 626, '01 Camry, '03 Corolla and '06 Accord (all 4 cyl) all used no oil. In fact, the oil in '93 626 still looked clean when I changed it. That car was amazing -- 225K miles with never anything other than maintenance and wear and tear items done. I equate using oil with the need for some major repairs like a ring job. Where does the oil that's being used go? (In my old cars, it was burned and you could smell it).
Anyway, thanks for your insight. I guess a CR-V runs at such high RPMs, it can't help but use a little oil.
I bought my 2008 CR-V about 1 month ago. I check my tire pressure for the first time yesterday. it was 40 in all four tires. So that is the way I got it from the dealer.
The door jam says 30 psi cold tire pressure. so is 40 psi O.K.? on the tires it say 44 psi maximum.
b.t.w I live in new jersey area and I checked tire pressure around noon. will that make the reading higher?
I'm sure even your "non oil burning" cars used a little bit of oil as they aged. The oil gets burned up in the combustion chamber, and might even lubricate the upper cylinder walls a bit or the valve stems.
All engines are different. Some are lazy engines and they are geared to run slower at highway speeds, some are very tweaky and need to rev up, and so oil consumption will vary.
Some very expensive, very exotic, very fast cars will often use oil between changes.
New vehicles usually have about 40 psi when shipped from the factory to prevent flat spots on tires when they are stored on docks before being shipped and during transport on ships and vehicle carriers.
Although 40 psi is O.K., door jam recommended psi will give you a more comfortable ride.
Dealers should normally reduce psi when the vehicle is prepped, but some forget.
I don't think the time of day changes a psi reading as long as your vehicle hasn't been driven for several hours, preferably overnight.
I have the pull to the right (PTTR) problem with my 2005 CRV big time. The night we drove it off the lot I let go of the steering wheel and it veered three lanes over on the freeway (thank goodness it was very late and there was no one on the road). I took it back to the dealership the next day to have the alignment fixed. I then took it again 3 more times over the next 6 months. The car still pulls to the right very strongly. I just figured we bought a lemon and there is nothing that can be done.
We have 25000 miles on the car and the front tires are bald on the edges from the pulling. This morning while looking for the best tires to purchase for the CRV, I came across all these posts chronicling the pttr issue. I never knew a service bulletin had been put out about this exact problem. I looked online and found it (it was published a month after I had purchased my car, the dealership should have been aware of how to fix this problem).
I just called Honda about this issue and explained my situation. They said that since I was four months over the warranty period they would not fix the problem. They said I could take it to a dealership AND PAY to have them diagnose the problem. Then once the problem is diagnosed I have to submit a claim to Honda and then a case manager will decide whether to fix the vehicle or not. The rep made a point to stress at least 3 times during the call that there is a good possibility it will not be paid for. I pointed out that it would be cheaper for me to go to a non-Honda repair facility and just have it fixed, he agreed.
I explained that I was sold a defective vehicle and that it should be repaired regardless of the warranty, he did not seem to agree. The moral of my story is...make sure you take care of this issue within the warranty period!! This IS a known problem with the CRV and if the dealership is incompetent and unaware of the service bulletin print it out and take it in to them. It is a real shame, Honda is willing to soil its name for a meager repair
From what I see, you have two possible "gets" here: -- Get another car. -- Get used to it. I've written tons here about the problem and won BBB arbitration over it a couple of years ago -- with the help of others here who fought. (BTW, the car dealers pay BBB's freight for the program and few consumers ever win.) I can't disclose how it worked, but we've got a 2007 CR-V now and love it. That would be Generation Three of the CR-V. Somewhere out there, from Honda itself, is documentation of design changes made specifically to correct the PTTR that they still will tell you is all in your head. The PTTR cannot be repaired. It cannot be fixed. There used to be a guy here who sells Hondas and kept screaming that we're all wrong about it. He can't be fixed either, except perhaps by a veterinarian. The PTTR can be changed, but only alleviated somewhat with such tricks as switching the two front tires every few thousand miles or lowering the air pressure on one of them. Even if you push this issue during the warranty period, you have to be both willing and capable of pushing it, and pushing it, and pushing it and not stopping. It's sort of what I do for a living. I could not have won had I not been willing and capable, as in flexible schedule, of going to the dealer many, many times, documenting everything and then puttting on a pursuasive case, including documentation from this web site. I think it helped when the arbitrator got scared as the car nearly ran off a main thoroughfare in Washington, D.C. when pushed to a fast start from standstill. And also when a third-party neutral called in by the arbitrator had the same experience. Most folks can't take the time or make the effort. The other side counts on that.
I have a '99 CR-V with 97K+ miles. My spouse does not believe in having the dealership do regular maintenance. I agree AND disagree with this. We bought the car new and he has performed all oil/filter changes. I am uncertain about the frequency of any of this; although, I am aware that he had the timing belt changed at about 93K by a personal friend. We've parted ways since then and I know I need to have the oil changed. Called my dealer for an appointment and he slammed me with all the other things I need to have done -- air filter, spark plugs, fluid changes, tire alignment, etc... He quoted a price of approximately $340. I don't mind the cost if it's all necessary work AND if it's a fair price.
Can you tell me what is the recommended maintenance and/or what is the minimal work I can have done at this time. Are other automotive service centers comparable to Honda dealerships?
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide will tell you what's recommended by Honda at 90,000 miles. And it'll estimate what it should cost for your zip code.
Dealers pad the recommended services to increase their profit, but you may decide that some extra stuff is good to do (especially if it's something that was skipped earlier).
Overall though, it doesn't sound out of line at all. New plugs, tranny fluid change, etc. are recommended by Honda at 90k. The estimated cost for that service here in Boise is $322 (although it wouldn't surprise me to learn that the dealer here charges $700 for the same service!).
Find a reputable shop other than the dealer. Lather, rinse and repeat: Find someone other than the dealer. If you're in a big enough metro area, subscribe to checkbook.org to check ratings. Otherwise, ask around. I have found that a good non-dealer repair shop relies on its good name. That cannot be said for dealerships. The work is spotty. I took my 2007 CR-V into the dealer for that problem with the tire pressure sensors being wacky and when I got it back they'd put considerably varying amounts of air in the tires, e.g. 30 psi, 36 psi, 38 psi and 32 psi, or something like that. And the caps weren't screwed fully back on the valve stems of two of them. Some kid kissed it off. If that happens at a private shop, word gets around. The dealers have so many people who figure you just have to go to the dealer to get it right -- that the dealer just doesn't care. A reputable shop can look at the air filter and check other stuff to see if you really need to replace them now.
Well, it depends on the dealer. My local Honda dealer is great, and his oil change price is lower than the "national oil change" stores. Plus they get you out in 30 minutes.
I also recommend using dealer servicing while the warranty is in force. In my case we had a 7/100K HondaCare warranty, and we took our 2002 Civic to the dealer. Now that the warranty is out I'm using an independent mechanic, but that is mostly because he also services our 1987 Corolla.
I just bought new honda CRv three weeks back and I noticed my front wind shield cracking (fine thin hair crack) this morning. Does anyone have similar experience? There is no dent and nothing has hit the front wind shield. The crack started at front passenger side top corner and is increasing slowly for no reason.
in these tough economic times i have been crushed by events my car window rt was smashed and gps stolen my deductible is 500 $ i payed 550 $ to above for repair 15 days later today at 7 pm the window fell down the honda guys dont have a policy to serve they will sell cars after 7 pm but they stop attending pains like me after 6 pm i am so sorry i brought a world class car from route 22 honda they are not interested i ask one question where should i park my car tonight if it is stolen will they help no they wont even as i write this they are selling labor day happy weekend honda u sure ruined mine god bless america god bless honda route 22 new jersey sanjay
However, I'm not sure I see what selling cars after 7:00 p.m. has to do with your window falling down. It's simply not cost effective for a dealer (or any other repair facility) to remain open 24/7. It would have been nice for them to help you out after hours but I think it's expecting too much. The sales staff and mechanics are two separate parts of the dealership.
Also, the insurance policy you bought and agreed to with a $500 deductible certainly cannot be the fault of the dealer nor should they be held responsible for vandalism in your neighborhood. Finally, you aren't suggesting that they would have any control over or responsibility for any potential theft of your car are you? Am I missing something?
I have a 2005 CR-V. I have had trouble with the battery. Honda Canada has replaced the battery, run all the test on the system, just recently changed all the wiring to the battery. I still have trouble. I can drive for 2 hours park the car for 5 minutes and then I need a boost to get going again. Other times it is fine. Very frustrating as Honda keeps telling us there is no problems
Comments
Jack
Thanks for your help though.
This applies to Honda or Acura mode year 2002 to 2006 or 2007 Honda Fit. Details can be found at http://www.odosettlementinfo.com or call Honda at 888-888-3082. This extends all of your warranty contracts by 5%.
The key is when you go to the dealer make sure they consult the original warranty department and not just run against your extended warranty which doesn't cover the converter
I had also wanted to change the cabin air filter (i had ordered both an air filter and a cabin air filter from HandA).
Now with the cabin air filter, bobintampa's reply (post# 5860 in this thread) to dmathew347's question has a YouTube vid but it's for the version of the CR-V before my CR-V (a 7th generation? with mine being an 8th generation?). I will look around YouTube and see if I can find a vid on mine but I only have 1 cabin filter and looking at this vid (for the 02-06 CR-V) they seem to be working with 2 cabin air filters. I wonder if the '07 might only need one of these now.. or should I have bought 2 cabin air filters when I placed my order from HandA.
Dust and Pollen Filter
Have your dealer replace the filter
when this service is indicated by a
maintenance message on the
information display. It should be
replaced every 15,000 miles (24,000
km) if you drive primarily in urban
areas that have high concentrations
of soot in the air, or if the flow from
the heating and cooling system
becomes less than usual.
Yes, "old school" types say change after 1,000 miles, and every 3K miles after that. They, apparently, don't believe that engines and oils have improved over time. They have.
The only good argument I can think of to change the oil every 3K miles is if you drive on dirt roads or are determined to keep the car for 300K miles.
That's pretty much in line with how I handled my '97 Accord which I kept for 10 years trading in at 167,000 miles and not one engine repair other than Honda recommended maintenance at each 30,000 mile increment.
Jack
Lights left on a 2003 CRV EX...boost started, as it wouldn't on it's own. Radio no longer works and displays "ErrE" on front--as if something is stuck, i.e., cd or tape jammed in--which is not this situation. I tried entering the "code" for the anti-theft, but the radio/deck won't accept anything. I haven't tried to disconnect the battery yet and hope things reset themselves (I know the radio code)--maybe tommorrow.
Ques. 1) Anybody experience this?
2) If the radio is defective, and assuming the OEM is stupid expensive, which CD/radio/iPod ready system would fit best.
3) any idea how to remove the original radio? How does the plastic "snap" in? etc.
Thanks,
John
Who 'ya gonna believe? Your choice.
My question is what is the difference between an OEM O2 sensor and a universal O2 sensor. Is it a good idea to use a universal O2 sensor besides the cost factor? How easy is it to re-use the existing connector? The original O2 sensor is from Denso, but I can’t find its part number. Anyone has an idea what the part number for the original O2 sensor?
Thanks in advance for all the help.
Byron
Why not take up Honda on the 8 years emissions warranty?
If your oil usage has remained constant, that's a good sign, but if the oil consumption is slowly slumping mile after mile, that is continually dropping over the ensuing months, that could indicate a problem.
Some engines naturally use oil--you'll hardly find a Subaru Outback that doesn't. But right around 1,500 miles on a quart is MORE than enough to tolerate.
There's really not much you can do besides watch it. The manufacturer will not warranty oil consumption of 2,000 miles on a quart. It would probably have to drop below 1,000 miles on a quart.
Oil burning of this nature won't effect emissions testing.
Anyway, thanks for your insight. I guess a CR-V runs at such high RPMs, it can't help but use a little oil.
The door jam says 30 psi cold tire pressure. so is 40 psi O.K.? on the tires it say 44 psi maximum.
b.t.w I live in new jersey area and I checked tire pressure around noon. will that make the reading higher?
All engines are different. Some are lazy engines and they are geared to run slower at highway speeds, some are very tweaky and need to rev up, and so oil consumption will vary.
Some very expensive, very exotic, very fast cars will often use oil between changes.
Although 40 psi is O.K., door jam recommended psi will give you a more comfortable ride.
Dealers should normally reduce psi when the vehicle is prepped, but some forget.
I don't think the time of day changes a psi reading as long as your vehicle hasn't been driven for several hours, preferably overnight.
We have 25000 miles on the car and the front tires are bald on the edges from the pulling. This morning while looking for the best tires to purchase for the CRV, I came across all these posts chronicling the pttr issue. I never knew a service bulletin had been put out about this exact problem. I looked online and found it (it was published a month after I had purchased my car, the dealership should have been aware of how to fix this problem).
I just called Honda about this issue and explained my situation. They said that since I was four months over the warranty period they would not fix the problem. They said I could take it to a dealership AND PAY to have them diagnose the problem. Then once the problem is diagnosed I have to submit a claim to Honda and then a case manager will decide whether to fix the vehicle or not. The rep made a point to stress at least 3 times during the call that there is a good possibility it will not be paid for. I pointed out that it would be cheaper for me to go to a non-Honda repair facility and just have it fixed, he agreed.
I explained that I was sold a defective vehicle and that it should be repaired regardless of the warranty, he did not seem to agree. The moral of my story is...make sure you take care of this issue within the warranty period!! This IS a known problem with the CRV and if the dealership is incompetent and unaware of the service bulletin print it out and take it in to them. It is a real shame, Honda is willing to soil its name for a meager repair
-- Get another car.
-- Get used to it.
I've written tons here about the problem and won BBB arbitration over it a couple of years ago -- with the help of others here who fought. (BTW, the car dealers pay BBB's freight for the program and few consumers ever win.) I can't disclose how it worked, but we've got a 2007 CR-V now and love it. That would be Generation Three of the CR-V.
Somewhere out there, from Honda itself, is documentation of design changes made specifically to correct the PTTR that they still will tell you is all in your head.
The PTTR cannot be repaired. It cannot be fixed. There used to be a guy here who sells Hondas and kept screaming that we're all wrong about it. He can't be fixed either, except perhaps by a veterinarian.
The PTTR can be changed, but only alleviated somewhat with such tricks as switching the two front tires every few thousand miles or lowering the air pressure on one of them.
Even if you push this issue during the warranty period, you have to be both willing and capable of pushing it, and pushing it, and pushing it and not stopping.
It's sort of what I do for a living. I could not have won had I not been willing and capable, as in flexible schedule, of going to the dealer many, many times, documenting everything and then puttting on a pursuasive case, including documentation from this web site. I think it helped when the arbitrator got scared as the car nearly ran off a main thoroughfare in Washington, D.C. when pushed to a fast start from standstill. And also when a third-party neutral called in by the arbitrator had the same experience. Most folks can't take the time or make the effort. The other side counts on that.
Can you tell me what is the recommended maintenance and/or what is the minimal work I can have done at this time. Are other automotive service centers comparable to Honda dealerships?
Please help. :shades:
Dealers pad the recommended services to increase their profit, but you may decide that some extra stuff is good to do (especially if it's something that was skipped earlier).
Overall though, it doesn't sound out of line at all. New plugs, tranny fluid change, etc. are recommended by Honda at 90k. The estimated cost for that service here in Boise is $322 (although it wouldn't surprise me to learn that the dealer here charges $700 for the same service!).
Lather, rinse and repeat: Find someone other than the dealer.
If you're in a big enough metro area, subscribe to checkbook.org to check ratings.
Otherwise, ask around.
I have found that a good non-dealer repair shop relies on its good name. That cannot be said for dealerships. The work is spotty. I took my 2007 CR-V into the dealer for that problem with the tire pressure sensors being wacky and when I got it back they'd put considerably varying amounts of air in the tires, e.g. 30 psi, 36 psi, 38 psi and 32 psi, or something like that. And the caps weren't screwed fully back on the valve stems of two of them. Some kid kissed it off.
If that happens at a private shop, word gets around.
The dealers have so many people who figure you just have to go to the dealer to get it right -- that the dealer just doesn't care.
A reputable shop can look at the air filter and check other stuff to see if you really need to replace them now.
Am I understanding you to say you check the tire pressure when the tires are cold?
Thanks
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Well, it depends on the dealer. My local Honda dealer is great, and his oil change price is lower than the "national oil change" stores. Plus they get you out in 30 minutes.
I also recommend using dealer servicing while the warranty is in force. In my case we had a 7/100K HondaCare warranty, and we took our 2002 Civic to the dealer. Now that the warranty is out I'm using an independent mechanic, but that is mostly because he also services our 1987 Corolla.
For the record, I googled this site and am enjoying and learning from the other posts.
Many thanks and keep up the good work! :shades:
http://www.onefamilysblog.com/2008/08/avoiding-car-maintenance-trip-falls-oil.ht- ml
my car window rt was smashed and gps stolen
my deductible is 500 $
i payed 550 $ to above for repair
15 days later today at 7 pm the window fell down
the honda guys dont have a policy to serve
they will sell cars after 7 pm
but they stop attending pains like me after 6 pm
i am so sorry i brought a world class car from route 22 honda
they are not interested
i ask one question
where should i park my car tonight
if it is stolen
will they help
no they wont
even as i write this they are selling
labor day
happy weekend honda
u sure ruined mine
god bless america
god bless honda route 22 new jersey
sanjay
However, I'm not sure I see what selling cars after 7:00 p.m. has to do with your window falling down. It's simply not cost effective for a dealer (or any other repair facility) to remain open 24/7. It would have been nice for them to help you out after hours but I think it's expecting too much. The sales staff and mechanics are two separate parts of the dealership.
Also, the insurance policy you bought and agreed to with a $500 deductible certainly cannot be the fault of the dealer nor should they be held responsible for vandalism in your neighborhood. Finally, you aren't suggesting that they would have any control over or responsibility for any potential theft of your car are you? Am I missing something?
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Thanks
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8e3oomo4ow