Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

srizvi1

Just got back from the dealer and I thought I'd post this info in case it helps or if anyone wants to chime in (I'm replying to my last post about the questions I had revolving around the 30k service on this car). This is my father's 2007 CR-V - it hit 40,232 miles and was down to 5% oil life. I got my local dealer to match a service promo from another dealer in the area - $29.99 for Oil & Filter Change, Tire Rotation, Battery Test & Multi-Point Inspection with Written Report.

Looking at the edmunds maintenance schedule (http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.asp), I wanted to have the following done & checked out (assuming I had everything checked and done properly at my last big maintenance point at 30k miles):

Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections (done? power steering & serpentine checked out, hoses ok - don't see anything for brake line)
Inspect Brakes (done - 8/32 front, 7/32 rear)
Inspect boots & seals Drive axles (dont see this so.. not done?)
Change Engine oil (done)
Inspect Exhaust system (done)
Inspect Fluid levels (done)
Inspect Fuel lines & hoses (partially done? I see a check mark for radiator hoses, heater hoses, power steering hoses, and air conditioning hoses)
Lubricate Hinges, locks & latches (no mention of this so.. not done. Nothing for Fuel lines?)
Check operation Lights & accessories (done)
Replace Oil filter (done)
Inspect/adjust Parking brake (no mention of this.. so .. not done?)
Inspect Steering (done - says steering components)
Inspect Suspension (done)
Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots (dont see any of these.. so.. not done?)
Rotate Wheels & tires (Done)

You'll see my notes on what I believe was done and not done based on what I saw in the summary sheet/vehicle check up report.

They suggested I get the brake fluid and power steering fluid flushed (Dirty).

Lastly, my CR-V has been needed to be jumped a few times in the past couple weeks. Yesterday I was sitting in the car with the engine off, but battery on and listening to the radio for about 30 minutes and the battery died and needed a jump. I thought this meant a weak battery which should be changed under warranty, but their battery test said it was still good (12.58V/449 CCA). So as a result, they wouldn't give me a new battery.

washby

I took off the oxygen sensor and double checked the connections. I used a test charger to make sure that the harness piece and the oxygen sensor had continuity. I took off the piece of crap wire connector that Bosch provided and connected all four sets of wires with heat shrinking butt connectors. Now my car computer only reads ODBII PO134 code Sensor No Activity Bank1 Sensor1 and not the previous PO135 Code P0135 --Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction. Does that mean I am in the clear now? Does my computer/car just need time to burn off any excess fuel that could have gone in the catalytic converter? If so how long should this process take because I dont want to run a risk of damaging the catalytic converter because the sensor has failed to kick on.

blueiedgod

BOSCH O2 sensors are incompatible with Honda engine computers. You are bettter off buying a DENSO or OEM. Some Honda dealers have on-line outlets which sell OEM parts at discount.

Majestic Honda (RI)
San Leandro Honda (CA)
www.hondaadcuraworld.com / Ray Laks Honda (Buffalo, NY)

Pick one that is closest to you.

theriver

I have an 04. I need to change the brake light (next to door) not above window.

I see 2 screws under two plastic caps. Is this all there are? Just unscrew and pull?

theriver

Just saw post 5989 which answers my question (though it wasn't my question). Wow, an answer before I even had the question - thanks......

stever

We aim to please.

fussycrvowner

I had similar issues with my battery. It would only start after I turned the key a few times. When I got home it died completely. I measured the voltage when it wouldn't start and it was down to 10.2 volts. What it turned out to be was a bad cell which was periodically shorting out. The battery has six cells which measure around two volts apiece. Chances are that one of them may be bad and intermittently shorting out. Other possibility is to have them test the charging output of your alternator. It may be putting out low current and not keeping the battery charged. A lot of short trips will drain down the battery as well if it isn't driven enough to replenish what was used in cranking.

pat78

I don't know if I described the problem with my new CRV right. While driving on hightway, it made me feel like both front tires vibrating and the road coming up to foot. I sent my car to a dealer again. They checked both tires and the suspension system, also I took a technician for road testing. They concluded that nothing wrong with my car and my feeling is quite normal for CRVs. They argued that CRVs are so designed that it might not as smooth as other cars such as sedans. I am wondering if all CRV owners think this is correct, and have the same feeling while driving as I have. Thanks.

ferenc

the problem i had was a vibration when turning left or right. the dealer fixed it by changing the differential fluid.

cxvargas

I'm also feeling an intermittent vibration but only on a straight line. I am guessing the w&t may need balancing or maybe something related to the brakes. I only feel the vibration coming from the front driver side but is rare. I will tell my dealershp and let you know.

lzc

The CR-V has a short wheel base, 103 inches. That's 3 inches less than the Civic. As a result, yep, it's going to produce a choppy ride compared to most sedans, especially at freeway speeds. The Accord's wheelbase is 110 inches.

There's not much you can do about the issue. Make sure your tires aren't over inflated. You might see if under inflating them by a couple of pounds helps out, but you wouldn't want to go too far with that.

I find the CR-V's virtues more than compensate for this shortcoming.

srizvi1

Thanks for this info. I'll try following up with a different dealer on this battery.

kenneth813

I want to rotate the tire by myself, but I am not sure if I need to rotate
Left front Left back, Right front Right back
or
Left front Right back, Right front Left back

cinglemom

Kenneth - you rotate the left front to the left back and the same for the right side. This will help you not have to get the balance done over again. I only know this because my man does this to my car/suv.

terryp1

If you have so-called "directional" tires, you moved front-to-back-back-to-front without them changing from one side of the car to the other. Directional tires can't be flipped, which you'd have to do if switching to the other side of the car. I have low-noise tires on one vehicle, for example and can't switch them to another side without having them going in the wrong direction.

If you have non-directional tires -- and most are -- move the back ones not only forward but each to the other side of the vehicle. The front tires goe straight back.

kenneth813

How do I know that if the tire is "directional" or "non-directional"?

kyfdx

Most directional tires have a fairly prominent "arrow", inline with the name on the tire..

Very few CR-Vs will have directional tires, and not at all likely if they are the stock tires.

theriver

I seem to remember that if I leave the headlights on and turn the car off and remove the key there is a chime to remind me. It seems like the chime has stopped working. Is it a fuse issue? Or was there not ever a chime.

joekinso

I had the same problem. Check that the dome light comes on when the door is opened. It should be as bright as when other doors are opened.I had one switch that just needed to be remounted. On another occasion, I removed the switch from the door post (a single screw and pulled out gently with wire attached) and sanded the mating surfaces to provide a proper ground to the switch. If this doesn't work, ground the wire directly to the chassis to make sure the wiring is OK. (dome light on bright) If this works but not the switch, test it for continuity and replace if bad. These switches seem to be a week link.

budh

Apologies from someone very unfamiliar with the "Add-A-Circuit" (mini size in my case - see http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FHM02FHA02.pdf - to be installed into a new Hyundai sedan) and how to install and use it.

1. Does the single red wire contain only the positive wire, or is somehow the ground wire also part of that red wire?

2. What kind of female connector is on the end of that red wire? And what kind of male connector is required to connect into it? What tools/supplies/directions would be needed for installing the right connectors needed?

I have a GPS unit and radar detector to hard wire and neither have the type of connector that would fit into the end of the red wire on the Add-A-Circuit.

Thanks in advance for any advice and assistance or even to be pointed in right direction for this information.

Bud H

washby

I was wondering where I could get a 2004 Honda CRV Service Manual i looked on http://www.handa-accessories.com/ and they only had the 2005-2006 service manual and the 2007-2009 service manual. I would like to make sure that it is understood that I want the ACTUAL SERVICE MANUAL that honda technicians have not that crap haynes (blue and yellow book) put out or one of those companies. This is the ACTUAL SERVICE MANUAL that you cannot buy at the autozone or the dealership. I would really appreciate help in finding one. Thanks.

stever

Helm has a service manual for $70. Looks to be the real thing.

blueiedgod

Apologies from someone very unfamiliar with the "Add-A-Circuit" (mini size in my case - see http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Data_Sheets/FHM02FHA02.pdf - to be installed into a new Hyundai sedan) and how to install and use it.

1. Does the single red wire contain only the positive wire, or is somehow the ground wire also part of that red wire?

2. What kind of female connector is on the end of that red wire? And what kind of male connector is required to connect into it? What tools/supplies/directions would be needed for installing the right connectors needed?

I have a GPS unit and radar detector to hard wire and neither have the type of connector that would fit into the end of the red wire on the Add-A-Circuit.

Thanks in advance for any advice and assistance or even to be pointed in right direction for this information.

Bud H

The red wire is only the "hot" or "positive" wire. You use the chassis for the ground.

Usually the connector at the end of "add-a-circuit" accepts a blade type, but you can clip it and solder the power wires for your GPS and radar detector. The only thing you should be aware of is that many of the car electronics don't operate at 12-14 volts and have either a voltage regulator, or just a load resistor in the "cigarette plug" adaptor. Make sure you transfer those into your new wiring.

Whistler1211

Dealer wants to do a rear differential fluid change and 15k service (oil and filter change,tire rotation and balancing,full brake inspection,battery check,all belts and hoses are gone over,transmission fluid is replaced,air filter is replaced,a oil and fuel additive is put in) for $400+.

I feel like this is a ripoff. I can just get the rear diff. fluid changed for $70 at the dealer and then get the rest done at a Jiffy Lube type place for much cheaper, yes?

Also, is the rear diff. fluid change necessary at 15k or is 30k acceptable? I found this service schedule on another Honda Dealer's site. What do you all think, is it legit for an 08 CR-V? I don't trust the maintenance minder.

2002-2008 CR-V Service Schedule

stever

Interesting - the Edmunds Maintenance Guide doesn't even show a 15k service as being required. The 10k service is about $40 and the 20k service is about $90 in my zip code.

Dealers typically recommend that more be done than what is recommended by the manufacturer in the owner's manual. Some of their recommendations may be ok, but mostly it's a way to make money. I'd trust the maintenance minder before I'd trust a service writer on commission.

Whistler1211

Thanks for the response Steve. I told the dealer to go screw themselves (politely) and cancelled the appointment. My mechanic of 18 years whom I trust very much said 90,000 miles for the rear diff. While I trust him, that seems kinda high and I don't know if I can wait that long. I read about all those problems with the rear diff. in CR-V's but for the most part I thought those were 2002-2006. Maybe I'll just get it done at 30k?

My main problem I guess here is that I would trust the maintenance minder, but I heard stories that if you change the oil earlier than the minder tells you, and have it reset, that it throws all the other milestones out of whack, so it may tell me to change my rear differential later than I actually should.

phisher

Point out that the differential is only listed as needing changing at 60,000 + miles in the manual and don't pay for it. They need to do this for free if you have less than that many miles. If they won't find a new dealership and write a review of the dealership here http://www.edmunds.com/dealerships/drr/jump.html also let them know that you have been on edmunds and that you will be doing a review of the dealership. This type of gouging is unacceptable.

Whistler1211

Thanks phisher. I'm very disappointed in this dealer (Honda of Nanuet, NY) and I'll definitely write a review, thanks.

stever

You read about all those problems with the diffy, but really, how many are we talking about? We'll never know unless Honda decides to disclose the info (or perhaps if there's a recall), but is it 1%, 4%?

4% is a significant number of cars, but that still means that most of them are trouble-free. The actual number is probably a fraction of a percent.

You have to go with your gut and it's cheap insurance to change the fluid if it helps you sleep at night. I'm happy relying on the car engineers and what's in the owner's manual. Or even a reminder light.

Any chance you can talk your mechanic into relocating to my neighborhood? :shades:

Whistler1211

Haha I wish I could talk him into relocating to MY neighborhood (he's in NJ). I moved from NJ to Maryland 2 years ago, and I still coordinate as many service appt.'s as possible with visits to my parents back in New Jersey.

theriver

thanks for info. I actually noticed that the dome light does not comes on when the door is opened (both driver and passenger) - except occasionally. I presume the "switch" you are talking about is the thing covered by the black rubber halfway down the door pole - has one screw on it.

I also noticed if I push in the switch (to simulate door closed) the switch stayed in - did not come back out as would expect if the door was opened. So it appears that maybe it is corroded or stuck. Will probably just replace. Have not taken it out yet - is is just unsrew the screw - pull the switch out carefully and and disconnect?

theriver

Went to the dealer today and bought two new dome switches and changed them. Elapsed time 5 minutes each side (while drinking coffee). Total cost 8 bucks for both switches.

Works like a charm (chime). Thanks Joekinso - saved me at least 100 bucks.

Funny thing I would never have thought that the dome switches had anything to do with the headlight and key chimes. That is why I did not look at the door switches until Joe said to

thanks

joekinso

Yes, the switch is under the black rubber cap. When you pull it out be careful to not let the wire disappear into the door post. It's probably a good idea to replace it. Good luck.

theriver

Joe: Make sure you see my post at 6035. THANKS

theriver

Now that my headlight issue has been fixed....

My 04 has about 80K. When I am driving and take my foot off the pedal, I hear a very noticeable WHIRRRRING coming from the wheel areas which gets quieter as the wheels slow. It does not occur when the accelerator is depressed, only when I take my foot off to either coast or even put my foot on the break. No other performance issues that I can tell. Has been going on for about 10K miles.

I took it to the dealer - they said they can absolutely hear the noise but they cannot find any problem. They thought it might be the tires, but it is strange. Had transmission oil changed - still there.

Any thoughts.

kevman3

At 18,000, 2008 EX-L, I too got codes B,1,6. I am going to wait until 30,000 miles for rear diff fluid, unless i start hearing noise from the rear.

phisher

The car is still under warranty and this is well before the recommended change interval so bring it in. The dealership should do it for free if you mention what I said above. Better safe than sorry, they put those computers in the car for a reason.

niteflite888

I bought a new 2008 AWD EX about two months ago. From the start I've noticed a strong smell from under the hood whenever I get out of the car. I know that on all cars there can be a smell and the hood is expected to be hot with the engine having run and all, but has anyone else experienced this with their car? Even when inside the car I can smell it at times.

If it weren't new I'd guess that the radiator isn't working properly or it would be low on some sort of fluid - oil, transmission fluid, other. But the oil level is fine and there are no light indicators that are on in my instrument panel.

terryp1

A possibility: It could be the acrid, stinky smell of hot brake pads.
It wafts from various places, including from under the hood. And it can pounce on you when you open the door to get out or sneak along inside when you enter the car.

dtstof

It smells a little like oil but no leaks anywhere. Maybe the brakes? 2007 model but not as strong now.

blueiedgod

You probably only smell it in the winter. We have attributed it to brine water evaporating off hot exhaust system.

stevedebi

"I bought a new 2008 AWD EX about two months ago. From the start I've noticed a strong smell from under the hood whenever I get out of the car. I know that on all cars there can be a smell and the hood is expected to be hot with the engine having run and all, but has anyone else experienced this with their car? Even when inside the car I can smell it at times. "

My 2003 had a strong smell for about 6 months. It was some kind of protectant coating on the engine, which gradually burned off.

stever

Six months seems kind of a long time for the Cosmoline to burn off. Six weeks should be more like it. I didn't think they sprayed that stuff on the engine either, just on the undercarriage.

theriver

My wife picked me up and I noticed her headlights were off. I told her to turn them on, which she did - then people started beeping at us. The lights were not on. The high beams worked fine and as far as I can tell all the other lights in the car worked fine. Is it possible that two headlights burned out at the same time? I removed one - looks fines to me. Am going to replace one to see, but is this odd or is it possible.

The chime works if I turn the headlights on and take the keys out.

SalemTheCat

Maintenance Minder A states: Replace engine oil
Maintenance Minder B states: Replace engine oil and oil filter

I have never owned a vehicle that stated to have the oil changed but not the filter.

Is the text of Maintenance Minder A correct?

If so, what is the reason to change the oil but not the filter?

fussycrvowner

I have 60,000 miles on my '02 and am already looking at my third set of tires. Only getting 30K miles per set, even with an 80K treadlife. Is this to be expected? I have kept up with alignment, rotations and balancing. I keep pressure at 30PSI even though the sticker says 26 because of outside edge wear on both sides of the tire. Any thoughts?

Mr_Shiftright

What brand of tires?

30K seems a bit low but a lot depends on the compound of the tire and one's driving habits, load carrying, climate, etc. There are lots of variables here, so it's a hard question to answer, as to what is "normal".

for instance, the higher the altitude where you live, the lower the tire life. Also, the further south you are in climate, the lower the tread life. Last of all, habits like taking highway off-ramps at double posted speeds (easy to do) will wear tires a lot quicker.

fussycrvowner

I have the Goodyear Assurance TripleTreads. Love the traction but the wear indicators around the outside edges are showing. I drive mostly city without a load other than myself. Think there is an extra load caused by eating too many snacks at work? :P Live in Ohio close to the snowbelt.

Mr_Shiftright

It's interesting. I've been reading the user reviews for this tire on www.tirerack.com, and while people seem to love the tire, and it gets very good ratings for its wet-weather abilities, there were quite a few users who said they didn't get anywhere near the mileage out the tire they were expecting. Also there were quite a few comments about gas mileage getting worse with this tire installed.

So it seems you are not alone in your high regard for the tire's performance but disappointment in its wear characteristics.

mcdermott

My 02 CR-V original tires wore out at 33K miles. Like you, I rotated every 5-6K miles and checked the air frequently, also keeping my tires at circa 30-PSI. This was disappointing. At 33K, I replaced the OEM tires with cheapo Walmart tires that are supposed to give me 60K, but I'm dubious. I believe the manufacturers could do much better if they really wanted to.