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Comments
https://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/om/9B0606/9B0606O00187A.pdf
RE the coolant change, pretty much the same thing? Do I have to try to get out what's in the engine block? Another $85 from the dealer. I'll be using Honda fluids in both cases.
I've done the rear diff fluid changes in this CRV (twice) and just put in new plugs so coolant and tranny should be easy right?
PS: I was surprised to find out there is no timing belt on the 04's !! Last 98 Odyssey 2.3 L engine had it. Great, I was figuring $600 for that thing. Serpentine belt is still $125 to change.
How can I get tho codes?
juan.
Fort lauderdale.
Any input on the collant change, is common practice for that just a drain and fill?
Thanks
my car window rt was smashed and gps stolen
my deductible is 500 $
i payed 550 $ to above for repair
15 days later today at 7 pm the window fell down
the honda guys dont have a policy to serve
they will sell cars after 7 pm
but they stop attending pains like me after 6 pm
i am so sorry i brought a world class car from route 22 honda
they are not interested
i ask one question
where should i park my car tonight
if it is stolen
will they help
no they wont
even as i write this they are selling
labor day
happy weekend honda
u sure ruined mine
god bless america
god bless honda route 22 new jersey
sanjay
Sorry to hear about your misfortunes. But here are a few questions to ponder:
A) Why leave GPS in plain view?
C) If you live in a questionable area, consider moving, or paying for a parking garage.
D) Get a plastic bag, tape it to the frame and wait until the shop opens. Alternatively, remove the door skin and prop up the window. Takes 10 minutes.
Sales is a totally different department than service- in fact they really have nothing to do with each other except for location. They have different hours, different cost centers, different employees, etc. Just because sales staff are working does not mean service staff are working; so I wouldn't compare the two. I recommend going to an auto body shop that has hours that are more accomodating than your Honda dealership.
I have a 2007 CRV with 20,000 miles, and wanted to know when is the right time to replace the air and cabin filters (none have been replaced so far). The manual mentions about a maintenance minder symbol that comes on, but i am not sure if they are for both the air filter and cabin filter, or just one of them.
Does a maintenance minder really come on when its time to replace them, or should i just replace them every xxx miles.
Thanks
Pollen filter $15.95 & Engine Filter $20.49 + $7.87 Ground shipping $43.81 total
They are cheep enough buying on Line.
Would this damage the filters?
How can I get tho codes? "
It should have been in the owner's manual rear cover. The dealer can recover the code, but they have to pull the radio, IIRC.
Could the two be related?
This is urgent because my DH wants to wisk my car off to get the clutch fixed - to the tune of maybe $800 or higher.... today!
To clarify: I can feel that the clutch pedal does not engage the clutch until I have pressed it down a few inches sometimes. There is a very clunky feel to shifting when it's cooperating. Most problems are when the car is at rest though sometimes have a problem downshifting. The timeline: trans. fluid change, 1 day of no driving, 4 days of only driving to and from work, 3 days of no driving - problems on the very next day.
His explanation skills are somewhat short. It just seems to me that if changing the transmission fluid could lead to easier shifting, then a bad fluid change lead to problems. Something he won't really entertain. If the clutch needs repair, that's fine.
Additional background: I can't remember if the manual transmission fluid has ever been changed before. Ditto clutch fluid. I don't even know if he checks it. Since 2000, my DH has been in charge of maintaining the vehicles. Although he hasn't done it the way I would have wished, it was easier to just let him deal with it than to have the fights about it.
Thanks muchly for any info/responses/advice/help.
-Melody
After I picked up my car and came home, I realized that they damaged the side of the driver seat (a small cut - 1/8 of an inch). I do not know what to do know - it is a cut on the side of the leather seat and longer scratches around it - should I take the car back and ask them to replace the leather seat cover (which would be quite costly) or should I try to repair with a glue (since it is on the side and not directly visible - unless you look carefully from the passenger side).
This is quite annoying - I feel like this happens quite often - you take the car for one repair and end up having a number of other issues followed by that ./..
Go to an autoparts chain, and have the error codes from your computer read. Then search the internet with that error code for your vehicle, or the autoparts store can tell you what area of the vehicle the problem is with. This is usually a free service. PepBoys, Autozone, etc
The power steering reservoir is full.
This is not from overpulling hard on the steering wheel.
Anyone here been through this or have an answer?
Thought I'd check before beginning the multiple trips to the dealer and working at getting past the "there is no problem" routine.
Could the two be related?
This is urgent because my DH wants to wisk my car off to get the clutch fixed - to the tune of maybe $800 or higher.... today!
To clarify: I can feel that the clutch pedal does not engage the clutch until I have pressed it down a few inches sometimes. There is a very clunky feel to shifting when it's cooperating. Most problems are when the car is at rest though sometimes have a problem downshifting. The timeline: trans. fluid change, 1 day of no driving, 4 days of only driving to and from work, 3 days of no driving - problems on the very next day.
His explanation skills are somewhat short. It just seems to me that if changing the transmission fluid could lead to easier shifting, then a bad fluid change lead to problems. Something he won't really entertain. If the clutch needs repair, that's fine.
Additional background: I can't remember if the manual transmission fluid has ever been changed before. Ditto clutch fluid. I don't even know if he checks it. Since 2000, my DH has been in charge of maintaining the vehicles. Although he hasn't done it the way I would have wished, it was easier to just let him deal with it than to have the fights about it.
Thanks muchly for any info/responses/advice/help.
-Melody
The two should not be related, unless during the transmission fluid change, they have also attempted to change the clutch fluid. Clutch fluid is just brake fluid and needs to be replaced every 3 years, regardless of mileage. It is very hydroscopic, and will abosrb water. Water will cause corrosion and eventually a clutch failure.
What you may have is either too much water in the fluid, or an air bubble. Either of which should be solved by replacing the clutch fluid with Honda DOT 3 fluid and clutch bleeding.
If the check engine light is on, see what the code is and then go from there, rather than guessing.
I believe your friend will learn a lot more by reading the OWNER's MANUAL than listening to strangers on the internet. :P
The manual says that "If the message ‘‘SERVICE’’ does not appear more than 12 months after the display is reset, change the engine oil every year."
But I'm wondering if anyone has pushed the issue of this?
The reason the fluid had to be changed at 17,000 miles is because the clutches got glazed or whatever and needed to be burnished. I assume this will happen again at least by 34,000 miles, and so on.
That means this fluid change and the procedures for burnishing must be done a few times or more before the mileage gets to the point that Honda recommends THE VERY FIRST change of that oil.
I can probably change it myself and do the burnishing.
But I don't like the idea of it.
On another subject, our local weather is turning cooler and the Low Tire Pressure Indicator light came on yesterday morning. The tire pressure was only 27 psi. When we adjusted it to 32 psi the light stayed off!
Anyone here able to tell me how to get to it without major dissasembly?
I recall on the slightly older CR-Vs that you looked for two small covers to pry off that go over the tail light mounting screws. Then you pull the tail light assembly off the car. Then you twist out the offending bulb, pop in a new one and there you go.
Can anyone please tell me how to remove the rotors from the hub? I can't seem to get them off! If some one can clue me in I"d appreciate it!
Dave
Remove the wheel caps, wheel nuts, and front wheel.
Remove the brake hose bracket mounting bolt.
Remove the caliper bracket mounting bolts, and remove the caliper assembly from the knuckle. To prevent damage to the caliper assembly or brake hose, use a short piece of wire to hang the caliper assembly from the undercarriage. Do not twist the brake hose with force.
Raise the stake and move and discard the spindle nut
Remove the 6 mm brake disc retaining screws
Screw two 8 x 1.25 mm bolts into the brake disc to push it away from the hub.
Turn each bolt two turns at a time to prevent cocking the disc excessively.
You will need an impact driver to remove those 2 screws. DON'T EVEN ATTEMPT to remove then with a screw driver. You will ruin them, and will have to drill them out.
You can get a very inexpensive hammer driver impact driver from Sears or Harbor Freight for $20.
If you have a V-something (6 or 8 cylinders), then Bank 1 is the V-bank which has cylinder 1 in it, and Bank 2 is the other bank. Sensor 1 and sensor 2 are before and after that cat, just as before.
The engine computer, uses the feedback from the oxygen sensors to adjust the fuel mixture for optimal performance.
I don't know the crv reset specifics, but typically it takes a number of start cycles and miles of driving before the computer will automatically reset the service light. The computer doesn't turn the light on right away with the first out of spec failure, and it doesn't turn it off right away. This is assuming you didn't drive around a lot with the service light on, dumping excess unburnt fuel into the cat converter, and ruining it. If you fixed this quickly after having the initial light, you should be in okay shape.
Give it a couple days of driving, and if it isn't off by then, go back to whereever you went to have it read, and have them read the codes again, and then reset the errors. That way you'll be able to see if you get a new/different set of error codes.
The oxygen sensor normally is in an extremely hot environment, monitoring the exhaust gases. When you first start a vehicle, the exhaust gas is comparatively speaking cold, and hence the oxygen sensor is giving erroneous readings as it is not working in the hot environment it normally works in.
What the heater circuit does, is when starting a cold engine it heats up the oxygen sensor....so it gets up to working temperature faster, and allows your engine computer to adjust the correct fuel mixture quicker.