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I just downloaded it and I can read the entire manual. I didn't try printing it (I have no need of a 2003 CR-V manual hard copy!
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
I'll have to check for an update.
A few weeks ago, my windshield washer hose was eaten by something, I can't join the hose, whatever decided to eat it, chewed to where it went into the body work. Can anyone tell me how it can replace.
Any help would be really appreciated.
sign Vicman1
Is this reasonable?
Cheers,
Jack
Have fun :shades: - bobintampafl
Do it yourself and save big time money.
Jack
I do my own maintenance and change the oil (now synthetic) every 5,000 miles, way ahead of Honda's recommendation. I didn't bother to pull out the owner's manual to reset the gauge at the 10,000 mile oil change and now the gauge is in negative miles (-528) as far the car's understanding of the service interval.
I tried resetting it according to the manual, pages 260-1, but it doesn't work. I suspect the problem is the negative miles.
When I get to step #5 for resetting, it messes up.
I can get "Oil Life" to blink and thus "cancel" and the temperature reading not blinking, but when I get "Oil Life" blinking and press to reset it instead reverts to where I started: minus-528 miles.
Anyone got the answer?
I replaced the front pads thinking it may be that, but no luck. Is this possibly the wheel bearing and if so is it a pain to replace it?
The noise was caused by corrosion on the brake calipers. Cleaning and lubing the calipers solved the problem.
In addition to the oxygen sensing piece of the sensor, there is a warming heater that is used when the engine is cold and first started. This gets the sensor up to it's operating temperature faster than waiting for the engine to warm up and the exhaust gases to keep it hot. It has a couple parameters that the engine computer is also monitoring to make sure the O2sensor heats itself up in the correct timeframe.
The sensor is not a cheap part, so one would not normally replace it just because you also replaced the downstream converter.
The TSB # is 04-006.
http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A04-006.PDF
There is a lot of winter road salt in my area which causes brake corrosion. After that time I had my 02V and now have my 07V brakes cleaned and lubed after each winter season.
This weekend it failed smog. Sure enough there's that PO420 code! I have been doing some searching on the 2002 Honda CR-V and Catalytic Converters, and it looks like others are having the same issue.
Link?
You will most likely need to replace the regulator, or parts of it.
You will most likely need the Helms manual to do that.
You can buy one from www.helminc.com or download a bootleg copy here.
Last summer, with my 2004 Accord, Between the manual and the info on ownerslink, it was much easier for me to figure out what needed to get done for my 90k service (and I needed to know this because I wanted to go Firestone to get this done instead of the dealer who was charging quite a bit for the service).
Here is the 2004 Accord scheduled maintenance info for comparison:
90,000 mi/144,000 km Scheduled Maintenance
Rotate tires
Replace air cleaner element
90,000 mi/144,000 km/6 yrs Scheduled Maintenance
Inspect drive belt
Replace dust and pollen filter
90,000 mi/144,000 km/9 yrs Scheduled Maintenance
Replace engine oil
So I took a printout to Firestone actually and got everything done (although I should have looked at the manual maybe more closely - I also got a transmission fluid flush done at this 90k service and should have done it actually at 120k.)
But looking at the CRV scheduled maintenance info, it's trickier and refers me to the service manual:
http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/9B0707/9B0707MAINIXA.pdf
So far, since my dad's owned the vehicle, I believe he's done everything at the dealer. The first oil change/tire rotation was free and done at 8,748 miles. at 18,083 he did an oil change again and topped off fluids and set tire pressure (they also removed a nail for $10). And again at 28,676 miles (very recently on 5/17/08) was an oil and filter change, with the fluids topped of and tire pressure set.
Does anyone have suggestions on what to do and what to look for? I would prefer to do this service at Firestone instead of the dealer, although I haven't gotten the dealer's quote for the service yet. With Firestone I'm a Complete Rewards Gold member so (under the assumption I can use my card w/ my dad's card)I get a free tire rotation, brake inspection, and alignment check also. That could take care of some of the things I need to get checked out.
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/maintenance.do?step=step2&year=2007&make=Hond- a&model=CR-V&style=EX-L+4dr+SUV+w%2FNavigation+%282.4L+4cyl+5A%29&mileage=30000&- engine=4INAG2.4&transmission=AUTOMATIC&zip=02809&synpartner=edmunds
My post noted that I held the reset button when "oil life" was blinking.
So you're just part of the loop for me.
Honda issued a warning to shops not to use Transmission flush machines on Hondamatics. Since Honda Automatic is a greatly different transmission than the rest of the automatics, it is essentially an automated manual, power flushes could destroy the transmission. Honda recommends 3 successive fluid exchanges with 10 miles driving in between.
I also doubt that Firestone used Honda ATF Z-1 fluid to flush it with. This creates second potential problem, since Honda ATF Z-1 is not your typical ATF fluid. It is made by Showa oil company of Japan, and there are no reliable substitutes.
I would strongly suggest you remove whatever fluid Firestone put in there, and replace it with Honda ATF Z-1, 3 times.
I made a post later in this thread post #5875 about doing the 30k service on my dad's 2007 CR-V. I already placed an order for the air filter and cabin air filter from HandA (I found out about ordering from there through elroy5's advice inthis recent post by elroy5 over at the honda accord 2003-2007 maintenance and repair thread.
(
Micron Air brand Pollen Filter
Also called A/C or Cabin filters.
Price $15.95
&
Engine Air Filter
Genuine Factory Honda CRV Engine Air Filter
Price $19.99 )
By handing the air filter and the cabin air filter on my own - and also recently having done the oil change - There won't be much to do for my 30k from the place of service I go to.
Have you read your owner's manual? Between your tachometer and speedometer is the maintenance minder. That's the "something" that lights up, and reading your manual will explain the maintenance schedule codes.
If you want a printout of the maintenance codes go to this owner's link website.
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/Maintenance/maint_schedule.asp
http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/maintenance.do?step=step2&year=2007&make=Hond- a&model=CR-V&style=EX-L+4dr+SUV+w%2FNavigation+%282.4L+4cyl+5A%29&mileage=10000&- engine=4INAG2.4&transmission=AUTOMATIC&zip=02809&synpartner=edmunds
This tells you the proposed scheduled maintenance, but I believe with the CR-Vs, they are designed to adjust to how you drive (although I'm confused on how oil life would change if you were to start using Mobil 1 or something - shouldn't you get more mileage out of that?)
Here is the link to that post.
Regards
I went for my 2nd services just 45 days back (1st week of May) and spent $300 for the services (15000 miles 2nd service) which includes the check and filling up of transmission fluid. I am wondering did the guys did any check or not. Is a good idea to report to Honda or the manager of my Honda dealership? Advise me.
Yes, I'd discuss the discrepancy with the service manager. At 15,000 miles, your car shouldn't have needed any transmission fluid. New cars don't consume transmission fluid that fast. And it's even less likely it consumed any in 45 days. Was it properly filled to begin with? Something doesn't add up.
The service manager should have an explanation that makes sense to you.
I was very polite "Is it not supposed to check the transmission fluid when I came for my 2nd service on 3rd May 2008?"
SM: Yeah, transmission fluid should have run low may be 7-10 days later.
I: Anyways thanks for your service and fixing it.
SM: Anytime
I: Thanks, Bye.
Ask them to put in writing two things: how low was the fluid in the transmission; and why. Then ask them again: why?
That's all I have time for now. I'll just say that I got a 2007 to replace my 2005 through a Lemon Law challenge on another problem and I would be freaking out on this.....as well as pushing it to the wall to the max with the dealer.
Keep asking questions here at this forum and then taking them to the dealer. They're going to give you answers to make you go away. Don't. That's the only way to get a true answer and remedy.
Be polite with the Service Manager. But don't be wishy-washy. You need to force the issue. The Service Manager will respond to you. You go easy, he gets off easy. You toughen up, he bends. He's playing numbers, as in lots of complaints from lots of people. You're playing the one vehicle you have.
I would be centered on one goal at this point: A new transmission.
NOTHING, nothing less would satisfy me.
That's how I got a new car.
Again I will ask her or any other service manager why this happened and will report you here to seek your advise and hopefully a viable soultion is reached.
I was very easy on the service manager last time and whatever she told I just nodded my head like "is it so" and left. I need to push her this time I guess.
NEW TRANSMISSION!!!! Man, that scares me!!! How did you manage a new car?
My question is what is the difference between an OEM O2 sensor and a universal O2 sensor. Is it a good idea to use a universal O2 sensor besides the cost factor? How easy is it to re-use the existing connector? The original O2 sensor is from Denso, but I can’t find its part number. Anyone has an idea what the part number for the original O2 sensor?
Thanks in advance for all the help.
Byron
Byron