Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

kentwong · April 2005

Honda has finally fixed the my cr-v's clunking noise when turning left. I guess they did not tighten the motor mount after they had installed the new motor mount and right front struct. After the second visit, I noticed lots of static shocks everytime I got out of it and tried to close the door. Now, it's truely fixed. I will replace the 4 orig. Dueler tires before the next winter. BTW, where did you purchase the Neuspeed struct tower brace? Thanks for the sugguestion.

ecotrklvr · April 2005

I got my strut tower brace from www.neuspeed.com. From time to time I read that they stopped making these, but I haven't really checked as I already got mine. In any case, you might check eBay.

stevedebi · April 2005

".I'm only guessing that it is slightly heavier than a CR-V."

The Ody is way bigger, I think almost 800 lbs heavier.

theracoon · April 2005

The Ody is way bigger, I think almost 800 lbs heavier.

Over 1,000 lbs more:

CR-V curb weights: 3,318 to 3,494 lbs.
Odyssey curb weights: 4,378 to 4,634 lbs.

The above information is the range of weight for the various models of each vehicle as listed on the automobiles.honda.com website.

user777 · April 2005

wheelbase may have an influence.

cczarnik · April 2005

First generation CR-V's have a valve seat erosion problem. They require adjustment long before the 105k service interval spec. Honda customer affairs is aware of it, and if you raise enough stink, they are likely to pay for the repair. (but they will drag you on denying it forever). My guess is that they haven't issued a service bulletin outlining shorter inspection intervals as it would be publicly acknowledging the problem..

They covered our valves on a 99 crv, after a year-long battle and lawsuit threats. Our #3 exhaust valve burned at 96,000 miles, the repair required an entire top end rebuild. My guess is your seats have eroded enough that it can no longer be adjusted and you're requiring the repair. Do a search on the internet (especially usenet) for CRV Burned Valves and read away. There was a gentleman a while back trying to organize a class-action lawsuit, I'm not sure where he got. I think they picked up his bill also and he went away. Hope this helps, Chuck

ecotrklvr · April 2005

I posted a while back on the idea of increasing tire pressure to make the 'V less tippy. Forgot to mention, this also helps with stability in crosswinds. Lower profile tires would help, too.

I drive from Orange County to Las Vegas several times a year. Before I leave, I put my 'V's tire pressure up to 34. Sometimes the gusts on the Cajon Pass are so severe they actually tip big-rigs over!. When it's like that, I keep two hands on the wheel, but I'm fine. Mostly, I'm driving with one hand - I like the 'V's straight line tracking. Much better than my Highlander.

Now I wonder if that poster might have something more seriously wrong with his rig - maybe a broken anti-sway-bar link? Or a bad Bushing?

norabill · April 2005

I have a brand new CR-V SE and love it! The dealership let me know that it is their policy to use Mobil 1 oil in the new cars they sell. I have some time, obviously, before I need to have the oil changed, but was wondering if anyone else has come across this. I would have preferred to have had a choice in this; and would probably have opted for regular oil. I know Mobil 1 costs more and quite sure that it is a good thing, but not sure it is worth the extra expense, esp since I'm good about having the oil changed regularly. The price for a reg. oil change is about half the cost off a Mobil 1 oil change at both my mechanic's and the dealer's. Any opinions would be appreciated.

theracoon · April 2005

You don't have to use the dealer for servicing your car. Just remember to keep complete and accurate records of all work done (whether by the dealer or by another auto shop or even if you do it yourself).

(use your imagination to insert a non-car smiley here)

miked7 · April 2005

Yesterday I changed the oil and filter on my 03 CRV and added 4.4 quarts of oil like it says in the manual, but the dipstick reads almost a quart low. Could this car have the wrong dipstick? I just bought the car last week (17k miles). No, there are no signs of a leak.

tntitan · April 2005

Drive it a couple of miles, wait a couple of minutes, and check it again. I have changed the oil many times in my '02 CRV and 4.4 qts should put you right where you need to be. Check and make sure you are not intrepeting the lower end of the "acceptable level" as a quart low.

blueiedgod · April 2005

Yesterday I changed the oil and filter on my 03 CRV and added 4.4 quarts of oil like it says in the manual, but the dipstick reads almost a quart low. Could this car have the wrong dipstick? I just bought the car last week (17k miles). No, there are no signs of a leak.

Start the car and let her run for a couple of minutes. Shut off let the car sit for 10-15 minutes and recheck the oil.

It is possible that you have a dipstick from another vehicle (Civic, Accord, Element, Oddysey, or non-Honda vehicle). Compare the length of your dipstick with another CR-V or parts counter.

fras · April 2005

When I turn my CRV off after driving I get a relatively loud tapping or dripping noise that is coming from under the car. The noise continues for a period of time (a few minutes at least) and the tapping noise eventual slows down to a noise like a sink faucet dripping.

Any ideas what this is?

varmint · April 2005

Be careful with over-inflating tires. If you put too much in the tire, it will balloon a bit and reduce the contact patch. Stability will be increased, fuel economy may get a small boost, but stopping distances and grip will be reduced.

Honda recommends 26 psi (not sure if that's still the case with the '05s). I wouldn't go any higher than 32.

maferna · April 2005

Honda recommends 29 psi for the 05 with 16in Dunlops

coudiebug · April 2005

FYI...when I remarked to my Honda's service department that 26psi was just too low and doing damage to my existing tires (according to another automotive garage) they set the pressure at 35psi. Have had much better mileage and a better ride, though not as smooth..but then again it is a truck!

rhodyv · April 2005

well, hope I don't have a bigger problem. I tend to doubt it because it is just SO smooth and stable otherwise.

I'm thinking I'm just not used to an SUV/light truck profile.
Thanks,all

kyfdx · April 2005

I've found that all generations of CR-V are particularly susceptible to airflow disruptions, such as those coming off the rear of semis.. I get a wobble back and forth when passing them.. Crosswinds don't bother it as much..

regards,
kyfdx

ecotrklvr · April 2005

It IS an adjustment. Prior to my '99 CR-V, I drove a '96 Nissan Maxima, which I had lowered and added low-profile 50 series Z-rated tires. Now THAT took some getting used to.

The 'V is a very comfortable ride, to be sure. My Toyota Highlander isn't even in the same class of smooth ride.

varmint · April 2005

Thanks!

rhodyv · April 2005

I'd have to agree that at least as much as with crosswinds, passing big trucks at high-speed in either direction has caused a similar effect for me.

isellhondas · April 2005

You should have driven my old 1968 VW Bus in a crosswind!

spf · April 2005

I have both an '03 and '04 with 15.3 gallon tanks. However, if I "top off" the fuel tank, I can put in another 1.0 to 1.5 gallons all the way up to the top of the neck. My question is, does the 15.3 refer to only the tank's capacity, or the tank plus the filler neck? I'm trying to get a handle on how many gallons I really have if I fill it to the brim.

jewels_2472 · April 2005

Hello,
I'm just wondering if anyone else has noticed their tires wearing too soon? My 04 Honda CRV has 26,000 miles on it and my tires are almost past the point of being legal. Is this normal wear for the Bridgestone Dueler tires? If so does anyone have suggestions as to good replacement tires? Thanks in advance!

theracoon · April 2005

The original Duelers aren't very good tires; 26,000 miles isn't unreasonable. I've been very happy with the Yokohama Avid Touring tires I bought for my '99 CR-V, although I have to admit that my CR-V were originally equipped with BFG Touring T/As that lasted nearly 50,000 miles. If you read back through the message boards a bit you'll find quite a few suggestions for tires.

Good luck.

coudiebug · April 2005

Yes, I have had premature wear and tear on my tires as well. I have a '03 EX CRV and I noticed this at about 20,000 miles which I thought was way too early (I have gone to almost 40,000 miles on other makes and models).

One of the reasons , one of my mechanic's rationalized, was the low tire pressure recommended by Honda with the tires that came with the car ( the Duelers). Rather than 26 psi, which he said gave rapid wear, (but a great ride) ,tire pressure should be set to at least 32psi, which is standard in their shop.

I have since and though I know I am set for new tires soon, I am trying to eke out as much time as I can to get a new set of four, rather than replacing two at a time (which keeps me with these Duelers.)

I too, would love a recommendation for all weather tires that would be better for long term wear.

Maggie

tntitan · April 2005

I commend you for going 26K on the Dueler tires. I felt unsafe driving those tires at 5K but my wife drives the CRV and I let it go to nearly 20K before changing to Costco's version of the Michelin Harmony which is privately labled for Costco as Michelin X-Radial which is rated for 80K. We now have over 40K miles on these tires and they are much better now than the Dueler was brand new. I paid $80 per tire after a rebate mounted, balanced, and out the door. Even my wife can tell a bid difference in the handling (especially in the rain), ride, and noise level.

bshel · April 2005

I believe you should only fill tank until it clicks. The "top off" is a waste of money, and that fuel will most likely evaporate in environment.

michellej · April 2005

Well, I am happy to say that Honda agreed to pick up the cost of the expensive part & labor for my burned Valves, even though I am out-of-warranty. Thanks for your help. I was prepared to sue Honda, but turned out it was not necessary, because Honda stood by the part. Reminder to all 1999-2001 CRV owners to be on guard with respect to the valves, as they can burn-out within 30,000 miles of its last adjustment.

Michelle

rhodyv · April 2005

Did Honda know about this? I just wonder as my new V came with Dunlops--could this change been because of the wear-issue, the increased wheel size for 05, or just dealer-specific?

Anyhow, the mechanic I use always replaces with Cooper tires, which always go well beyond 60K miles on various cars I have had.

sek4mlk · April 2005

My OEM BFG Touring T/As still have quite a bit of tread left and the CRV just turned 50K. After the first 10K, tires were wearing like they were underinflated at 26 psi. Increasing pressure to 30 psi evened out the wear.

wen · April 2005

Is it just ME ..... or is anyone else experiencing this ?? I did a few searches here before I created this topic post, and could't find anyone with this problem.

On the 2004 Honda CR-V EX, there is a small green LED indicator on the "A.C. pushbutton" in the Climate Control SELECTOR Dial, which is so very, very "dim" and impossible to actually see in the daylight. I have to "cup my hand" around it and "peek" to see if the A.C. is really on. It's really annoying and I wonder if there is a T.S.B. or "fix" ?? I'm sure someone will write back with some "cute" comment indicating that I am an "idiot" if I can't "feel" the A.C., but seriously, I never like to shut off or start an engine with A.C. ON and also, on those cool days, I like to toggle between 10 minutes of A.C. and then 10 mins. of just cool air, and it IS difficult to sometimes tell the difference. Is the '05's any better ?? Is the A.C. button on the '05 knob easier to see ????

mikefm58 · April 2005

Good for you Michelle. What year CRV did you have and the mileage? And how often have you had the valves adjusted? Also, I believe this issue goes back to the '97 CRVs (I think).

Note to Honda bashers.......please take note of Michelle's experience. Though I'm sure it wasn't easy, Honda did come through in the end.

blueiedgod · April 2005

Is it just ME ..... or is anyone else experiencing this ?? I did a few searches here before I created this topic post, and could't find anyone with this problem.

On the 2004 Honda CR-V EX, there is a small green LED indicator on the "A.C. pushbutton" in the Climate Control SELECTOR Dial, which is so very, very "dim" and impossible to actually see in the daylight. I have to "cup my hand" around it and "peek" to see if the A.C. is really on. It's really annoying and I wonder if there is a T.S.B. or "fix" ?? I'm sure someone will write back with some "cute" comment indicating that I am an "idiot" if I can't "feel" the A.C., but seriously, I never like to shut off or start an engine with A.C. ON and also, on those cool days, I like to toggle between 10 minutes of A.C. and then 10 mins. of just cool air, and it IS difficult to sometimes tell the difference. Is the '05's any better ?? Is the A.C. button on the '05 knob easier to see ????

Are your headlights on? If so then the A/C button is dimmed for night driving. If your headlights are not on and you still have hard time seeing the a/c button:

a) something is wrong and you need to address that at the dealer
b) tint the windows
c) you are wearing polarized sunglasses.

stodieja · April 2005

hello my name is jason i am new here i have a 97 honda cr-v that died while driving had vehicle towed to a ford dealership when they went to check it the vehicle started up and drove in i was curious about any fuel pump problems associated with these vehicles it has 85000 miles on it now thanks for any info

isellhondas · April 2005

I have no trouble seeing my little green light unless there is bright sunlight.

It doesn't hurt a thing to start or shut off your engine with the A/C on so don't give that a second thought.

mikefm58 · April 2005

What were your symptoms when it died and you couldn't start it? Also, why did you have it towed to a Ford dealership? Didn't think they would even look at a Honda.

rhodyv · April 2005

Could be lots of things but timing belt and fuel/water pumps are famous for dying---allegedly around 100K, but I had these die on an Acura at 70K.

rhodyv · April 2005

Not just you...and I have an 05. I almost always drive with my headlights on, so could be that somewhat, but even with light off it is tough to see.

Don't bother getting it fixed if the AC still works---anything behind those ventilation control panels usually means 2 hrs of labor to take things apart to change a 2 cent wire, switch, or LED.

mikefm58 · April 2005

" timing belt and fuel/water pumps are famous for dying "

On a Ford maybe, but on a Honda? That's new news to me.

ecotrklvr · April 2005

Of course, replacing the timing belt is a "must" maintenance item, for many OHC cars, and trucks too. Any engines that doesn't have a timing chain, has a timing belt. Replacement around 70k sounds right. There's no way to avoid it, no matter what - replace it or you'll stop one day. Hopefully, yours isn't one of those "interference" engines - if the belt breaks on one of thee, it means bent valves and/or cracked pistons! Ouch!

Fuel pumps usually go out on vehicles driven by people that drive all the way to "empty". If you ever actually run out of gas, you're taking months off the life of your fuel pump. It's designed to be cooled by the gasoline flowing thru it. If it runs dry, it can burn up very quickly.

wen · April 2005

Are your headlights on? If so then the A/C button is dimmed for night driving. If your headlights are not on and you still have hard time seeing the a/c button:

a) something is wrong and you need to address that at the dealer
b) tint the windows
c) you are wearing polarized sunglasses.

YES, I always drive with headlights ON during the DAY, especially here in Florida, so obviously that small LED indicator is dimmed as you said. But even at night it's still dim... I think due to a slight parallax of the actual light source that is quite a bit away from the lens. Plus....... I'm gettin' older and my eyes aren't what they used to be.
Funny you mentioned window tinting.... a real necessity here in the South, but quite a bit "overkilled" by so many who have gone well past the legal limits of dark tint to near "pitch black" windows. Cops hate it, and justly so !!
Guess I'll just have to find the wire to the small LED and relay it to an automotive #1034 taillight bulb mounted on my dash ......... just kidding !! But seriously, it IS difficult to see. I was hoping that perhaps the '05's may have had a slightly "larger" LED or something, and I could retrofit the newer knob.

railey · April 2005

Hi. I have a SE with 1100 miles on it. While driving, or in idle, I sometimes hear a loud "ping" from under the front passenger seat area. Any idea of what causes this? Appreciate any information!

mikefm58 · April 2005

" Replacement around 70k sounds right "

The owner's manual for my '99 CRV says replacement at 105K miles, which I did just before it hit that. I also replaced the acc. belts, water pump, and had the valves adjusted.

ecotrklvr · April 2005

I sit corrected. You're ahead of the curve once again.

My '87 Mazda B2200 was spec'd to change in less miles than that, as was my '86 Mazda 626 GT. I guess belts are getting better.

Seriously, folks, listen to mikefm58 and others who recommend the 30k (maximum) valve adjustments. Even thought the manual doesn't call for it, there are dozens of posting on this and other forums of people that paid the price for not doing so. And now Honda seems to be stepping up with fixing some problems as well. For the record, it was 1999 (thru 2001) when Honda added the HP that made the valves more prone to tightening up. This power increase was done by increasing the peak HP RPM at the same torque. To do this, they had to use stronger valve return springs. That's what my race-engine builder friends tell me the root cause it - the steel valve seats get pounded into the aluminum head when the springs are too strong.

It doesn't do it to but a small percentage of CR-V's, but why take the chance? I did my own adjustment twice - the second time in under 30 minutes. Total parts cost less than $20.

mikefm58 · April 2005

" 30k (maximum) valve adjustments."

I didn't know about the valve issue until just a few months ago, no idea how I missed it. But some of the regulars here "showed me the ways" when I scoffed at no issues with gen one. To be honest, I never had my valves adjusted until the 105K service and never had any burned valve problems (Thank you Lord).

I only put 12K miles per year on my CRV (now that I bought a bike) and will now have it done every 2 years. Dealer charges me $87. I consider myself a do-it-yourselfer, but with limits.

rhodyv · April 2005

sorry, it's true.
I had a timing belt die earlier than recommended change on both a 91 Accord and a 92 Acura Integra---could have just been that part in that "era" I suppose.

kyfdx · April 2005

I know this isn't an extremely common problem, but I had it.. It was only mildly annoying, as it only happened during hard left U-turns.. Unfortunately, I do this every morning dropping my child off at school..

A few months back, someone on this board mentioned there was a TSB on it.. Something to do with a motor mount.. Today, I was in for an oil change at my dealer, and asked the service advisor about it.. He said he wasn't familiar with it, but would check the computer for it..

Sure, enough... he found the TSB.. Something about the engine being just slightly offset and rubbing against something.. (I'm real specific here, I know..). Anyway, before doing the fix, they inspected every other piece of the suspension and brakes to make sure it couldn't be something else. The fix involved loosening a motor mount, shifting the engine slightly to its original intended position, then re-tightening the motor mount.. It is only a half-hour job (free, in my case)...... and, it worked!!

Just an FYI... and, no.. I didn't get the TSB number... but, he didn't have any trouble finding it..

regards,
kyfdx

fjb60 · April 2005

I have a 2002 EX with 33,000 miles. After every other oil change or so I have to go back to the dealer because of oil drips. Each time the problem is fixed, but this time they replaced the filter and told me it might drip for another day or so because there was oil up in the frame. I don't really feel comfortable with this explanation because of the engine fires with the '03 and 04' cars (I don't know about the '05 models). It seems to me that if the problem was fixed there shouldn't be any more dripping. Any thoughts on this? Should I wait it out a day or so to see if the dripping stops or go back to the dealer?

Thanks!

mikefm58 · April 2005

Sounds like they've got idiots that do the oil change.

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