The 04's and 05's probably depreciate a little faster than an '06 Civic will because the Civic was recently redesigned and an '04 is the "old" style. An '04 Mazda3 still has the current look. Not a good comparison.
I was one of those "misguided people" who bought the 06 Civic LX Sedan. Here's why,
I needed a fuel efficient automatic sedan for my 50+ mile per day commute and it needed to be reliable and safe (ABS and full side curtain airbags).
I looked for 2 months at new and used cars and the 06 Civic turned out to be the best option for my family and it was within our price range. Make no mistake I do not LOVE this car. I see the purchase as the "smart" thing to do, not the exciting thing to do.
I preferred the power and styling of the Mazda 3i Touring and could've gotten a better price (than the Civic) new and an even better price used. The problem was in finding a used one with low mileage and the full side curtain airbags (they are an option). My issues with the new Mazda3i was that the shifting of the 4sp auto wasn't as smooth as the 5sp Civic, it's MPG are lower, and riding in it made my wife queezy (this is highly subjective).
The Scion Tc is a coupe and didn't meet my Sedan requirement.
The used Civic and Accords were an option but again I couldn't find one with low mileage and the full curtain airbags - which, from what I understand, were an option prior to the 2006 models.
As a side note a I actually paid more for the Civic because I waited and did my due diligence. I worked with a broker and his initial price (quoted a month ago) of 19,400 out the door jumped to 19,800 out the door because the dealers are selling out so quickly. I had to wait for one to be shipped. Anyway I shopped the brokers offer and none of the dealers I went to would match so I figured I got the best price I could.
I'm picking up my 06 Hybrid next Monday (Yay!!) and I want to get the windows tinted. It seems that I've read that tints that "contain" (?) metal are known to last longer and be of higher quality. The downside, apparently, is that they screw with radio reception (primarily AM) and possibly navigation in cars where the antenna is integrated in to one of the tinted windows. (The rear, in the case of non-hybrid '06 Civics)
Can anyone comment? (for personal curiousity)
Also, since the Hybrid's have the antenna mounted on the roof, I don't have to worry, right?
I got my windows tinted on my ex with nav, and in the manual it said metallic tint could effect the nav antenna underneath the dash. So I went to a tint shop where they recommended the 3M film since it does not contain metal. It cost a little more but if you don't want to take a chance and have to redo it then I recommend the 3M. Make sure it's the real stuff, you can tell by seeing the 3M logo in the film, which you can later rub off.
The 04's and 05's probably depreciate a little faster than an '06 Civic will because the Civic was recently redesigned and an '04 is the "old" style. An '04 Mazda3 still has the current look. Not a good comparison.
Currently, it's the only comparison of resale value that can be made. That is until '06 figures are available.
Thanks. Little odd though, if the nav antenna is under the front dash, and we aren't tinting the front-front window. I've heard that the non-metallic tints don't last as long, but I think I'll go that way too.
Yeah, but if you tint the front and driver side it could effect it. My tint has a lifetime guarantee, the only thing is that it's less effective keeping the heat out. I don't notice but I guess that is the only drawback.
on the 1500 RPM "growl" reported by some on their automatic 06 Civics? I too have found that mine does this at exactly 1500 RPM while in a higher gear (probably 5th) especially on a slight incline. I have reconsidered the heatshield idea I once had and now feel it doesn't have that tinny metallic "sympathetic vibration" feel that a heatshield might produce. Instead, it is a deeper sound..and now I don't know. Still, it doesn't feel or sound destructive and I have an idea that if I took it to my dealer they would be unable to find the cause..although they should easily be able to duplicate it. I think Honda USA may eventually issue a TSB for it so if someone here sees an official fix please let me know..
I'm shopping for a LX MT sedan but am having a hard time finding one to test drive. I've driven the AT, but only on about 2 mi of freeway and 2 mi of streets - virtually all flat. I'd like to hear about owner's experiences with both the AT and MT on steep hills and mountain driving, especially with 4 passengers. Does the "grade management" do any good on the uphill? (I'm not expecting racecar performance, of course) Can you get in a comfortable gear for an engine braked descent with the AT?
Thanks!
Off topic but amusing: If the salesperson calls you by a first name other than your own as you are leaving, you don't have to go back to them, right?
"I'd like to hear about owner's experiences with both the AT and MT on steep hills and mountain driving, especially with 4 passengers. Does the "grade management" do any good on the uphill? (I'm not expecting racecar performance, of course) Can you get in a comfortable gear for an engine braked descent with the AT?"
I can't speak for the MT or for mountain driving. I live in gently rolling hills. But I am very happy with the AT and I do not think it will dissapoint any reasonable expectations. It can be downshifted very easily to D3 or 2 or 1 when necessary for engine braking. The new 1.8L engine is designed to have low friction and low pumping resistance, so the engine braking is light. But it would be light with the MT as well. You really need gear 2 for noticeable engine braking. The engine will redline at about 65 or 70 MPH in AT gear 2, I think. So you would want to descend a steep grade a bit slower than that. And of course you will feel the downshift to 2 and hear the engine rev. So engine braking is doable, but not ideal due both to the engine characteristics as well as normal AT limitations.
The 5 speed auto does shift a lot to compensate for terrain, but it is designed to and it is smooth and relatively unnoticeable. It does not seem to hunt for a gear on a steady grade in my short experience with it (1K mi).
One nice thing is that the AT will downshift automatically when going downhill with the cruise control set in order to prevent picking up too much speed. I have not experienced this in any other car I am familiar with.
I am sure that the manual transmission, which has slightly closer gear ratios and of course a clutch, will give you finer control which would be nice for the demands of steep grades and full loads you are asking about. So if this is really your most important consideration, go for the MT. But I am impressed with the AT and think it would be fine for most purposes if you don't want the manual for any reason.
And by the way, the LX has drum rear brakes whereas the EX and some competitive models have rear disc brakes. The brakes work wonderfully, but I guess that might be a consideration for a lot of full-load mountain driving since the discs will resist fade more.
What cost less than 20k,is as safe as an Audi A4,gets 40mpg.. can be driven 200k miles with little or no problems.. and holds its value as well as many luxury cars? or... what cost less than 20 grand... LOOKS cool.. Jumps off the line faster than the competition,runs with the rest of the pack re safety.. and has average milage as well as residuals?
A buyer who shops cars for ego satisfaction will pick #2.. a buyer who shops car with a mind towards value/performance/safety in good balance will shop #1
"The ex is "mp3 ready" does anyone know if an ipod will work equally as well... or must it be an mp3?"
All the models with stereos can play MP3s or WMAs off of a CD.
In the EX sedan, you can't play an ipod unless you get the optional Audio input jack installed or the optional Ipod interface or do some aftermarket adapter with an FM modulator.
The EX Coupe has an audio input jack that you can connect your Ipod to.
Some models can play MP3s from a memory card, but I forget which models. Maybe the Navi models?
You wrote "It can be downshifted very easily to D3 or 2 or 1 when necessary for engine braking. The new 1.8L engine is designed to have low friction and low pumping resistance, so the engine braking is light. But it would be light with the MT as well. You really need gear 2 for noticeable engine braking. The engine will redline at about 65 or 70 MPH in AT gear 2, I think. So you would want to descend a steep grade a bit slower than that. And of course you will feel the downshift to 2 and hear the engine rev. So engine braking is doable, but not ideal due both to the engine characteristics as well as normal AT limitations."
Brake pads are a lot less expensive than transmission repairs. Leaving your automatic transmission in D is a sensible approach. D2 or D3 are potentially useful in precluding wheelspin when starting out on ice or snow.
My '06 EX sedan already has an aux input jack. I use it to play my plug and play Sirius satellite radio. I am assuming you could use the aux input jack for an ipod.
Brake pads are a lot less expensive than transmission repairs.
True enough, but the trans is covered under warranty, and for those with extended warranties it would be cheaper to have the trans replaced (aka FREE) as opposed to a "normal wear" item like brake pads and rotors. All of this is assuming that the trans would fail while within the warranty period, and not just slightly after it expired, as is usually the case...Hehehe...
When I was shopping a few weeks back, manual transmission LX or EX 4-doors were nearly impossible to find at all. No dealer could find one in Atomic Blue or Galaxy Gray, which were the only two colors I would have considered.
Have you thought about driving a Coupe 5-speed manual just to get a feel for the engine/tranny combo? It may be as close as you can get until you're ready to buy. Hopefully they can find you one if you do decide to get one. The only colors they could find for me were Tango Red (yuck!) and Taffeta White, which I liked, but hated the ivory interior.
The manual does give the car a much different character and much more pickup from stop/low speed. You won't regret going with the manual.
The iPod will work with the AUX jack in the EX. It's also available as a dealer installed accessory in the LX. I tried it out when I test drove one and it sounded very good.
yes I have the jack already there on the EX SEDAN.I guess I need some kind of "RCA" jack?Hey did anyone notice the car has speed sensitive wipers? Honda never even mentions that!The manual is quick if you need it to be... Though I've never even taken it close to redline in any gear .....YET
Correct guys - the MP3 and WMA refers to the Civic's CD player being capable of playing multiple format CD's that are bought or burned at home. The audio input jack unter the power outlet on the EX allows you to plug in any MP3 player (like my iPod) with a 3.5mm minijack on either end. I got the Belkin TuneDok that fits in the cup holder nicely. I tucked the excess cable under the TuneDok for a clean look. As soon as the cable is plugged in, the radio switches modes and recognizes an external device. It sounds great! Just got my '06 Civic EX sedan with AT (Nighthawk Black Pearl) last Saturday and I love it. Paid about $1300 below MSRP. Good luck to all!
The AUX jack is available on LX models for $70 retail. It's my understanding that you can't control the iPod thru the head unit, though. To do that, you have to spring for Honda's iPod adapater which retails for about $215.
Unless Honda has re-designed it, the D2 means the trans will not shift over the 2nd gear; the first gear is still used when starting out even though D2 is selected (i.e. it is not same as the winter start mode on european cars). The same applies to D3.
D2 is useful when going down hill in icy and snowy conditions (the rev may be higher but the brakes do not overheat). Also D3, even D2, is useful in stop and go traffic; you'll not get that annoying downshift and lag.
So, manual trans driving techniques can still be applied on Honda trans even though they are not manumatic.
I don't have my owners manual handy, but I believe in D2 (and D2 only)the transmission will start in second gear for better snow traction. All other positions will start in first gear.
I wondered why Honda would offer a dealer-installed Ipod adapter when you have an auxiliary audio input on the EX model. The iPod adapter will play through your head unit and allow track control through the controls on your steering wheel. I will test how friendly the use of the iPod will be on a long drive using the iPod controls via the TuneDok in my cup holder in the coming weeks and then consider the wired iPod adapter. The standard audio in jack is a great improvement over even the best wireless FM adapter available for your MP3 player. Invest in a high quality cable to get the best sound.
Yes, the digital card reader is part of the Navi system. As someone else mentioned, there is a "Aux. Input" factory accessory that you can have installed. That jack will let you plug in any mp3/ipod, portable CD player, Sirius Radio etc.
What I still haven't learned is if the Digital Reader takes a Type I or Type II PC Card. Guess I'll learn in two days.
I haven't checked the price list but I bet the iPod connection kit is probably $250 - $300. I don't know how much the aux-in kit is, but I bet it is a lot less.
(That's why an occasional iPoder might opt for the aux in over the connection kit)
blane wrote: "Brake pads are a lot less expensive than transmission repairs. Leaving your automatic transmission in D is a sensible approach. D2 or D3 are potentially useful in precluding wheelspin when starting out on ice or snow"
I agree that using the brakes is better than using the transmission for braking. However, there may be circumstances that would cause your brakes to overheat and stop working, which can be very dangerous. I am thinking of very long and steep descents in mountainous areas. Engine braking is a necessary skill to master to prevent brake fade in these circumstances. The post I was replying to was specifically asking about engine braking in mountainous areas with heavy loads.
In addition, when stepping on the brake pedal, all four wheels are braking as opposed to just the two front wheels.
since we are also on the topic of stereos, i have the lx w/ the four speaker system. i notice that the speakers are really lacking in the highs and the bass is a little unclear - anyone have any idea how to remove the speaker grill or do i have to remove the entire panel to replace the speakers? ( i don't have my service manual yet).
That would be great if you wanted to be inconvenienced by a transmission failure and then be without your vehicle for the few days that it would take to remove your transmission and then install the REMANUFACTURED or REBUILT replacement transmission that would be provided under the warranty. There's no way that you would get a brand new one.
Does everyone have this really annoying noise coming from the engine when RPM is below 2000 and you press on gas a little? Mostly happens on the 5th gear, but can happen on any gear while accelerating as long as RPM is below 2000 and downshift doesn’t occur. I read about the noise on this forum and wanted to check if it’s a universal problem. If it is, I think Honda should recall every single Civic, even if this is nothing worrisome. I haven’t paid 19k for the most reliable car with noise coming from the engine every time you press on gas.
Not to nitpick, but I don't think it was ever D2, simply labeled "2". To my knowledge, using 2 locked the transmission into that gear whereas other automatic transmissions start in first then shift into second when in the 2 position. It's great for slippery starts and perfect for low speed stop-and-go traffic. A mechanic friend did mention that using 2 too often to start off could burn out the clutch pack(s) on the transmission. Not a good thing.
They D gears were usually D4 and D3, but I believe they're now D5 and D4 in models with the 5-speed automatic. One complaint I've always had is how easy it is to overshoot the highest gear and end up one gear lower. The benefit of that, though, is you could easily slide it out of 4th into 3rd for passing.
The standard audio in jack is a great improvement over even the best wireless FM adapter available for your MP3 player. Invest in a high quality cable to get the best sound.
FM transmitters are good for those who can deal with the sound quality, but audiophiles definitely need something better. The cassette adapter I've used up until now sounds much better than an FM transmitter.
The AUX jack was one of the Civic's most appealing features to me. I didn't end up getting a Civic (no stone throwing, please) and the Mazda3 I bought doesn't have an AUX jack, though it does have a decent sound system. Only a handful of aftermarket companies have created direct ways to connect an iPod on my car. I'm waiting for a new version of a product called AuxMod that costs $110. It will allow me to remove my head unit, connect the product to the input jack for the CD changer and run it down thru the console to connect to my iPod. Supposedly, it will allow full control thru the head unit. I can't believe Mazda doesn't offer any support for this, at least not yet. I applaud Honda for offering the AUX jack and (though pricey) the complete iPod adapter.
As I posted earlier, prices for the AUX in for Civic LX is $70 and for complete iPod adapter is $214. Check out collegehillshonda.com for discounted prices.
I find it very admusing that the automatic advocates complain about manually shifting/over-shifting between different drive gears. In a manual it is very easy to quickly and accurately select the correct gear.
Shifting into the new Year,
MidCow
P.S.- With a MT you don't have to ever pay for transmission flushes
After looking at the installation PDF on College Hills Honda's website, it look like most people who opt to get the Honda iPod adapter will have to spring for the labor charge to have your local dealer install it.
I'm not sure if your comment is directed at me, but the complaint I had is that Honda automatics lack a proper detent for their normal drive gear and you can easily overshoot it. I've had this problem in my mom's and sister's Accords. Not a big deal, but makes me wonder why they don't fix it. Even most auto testers complain about the same thing and that you can easily end up one gear below the D4 or D5 position.
As for me, I'm a hardcore manual transmission guy. All my Hondas and Acuras (even my Legend) were manual and my current Mazda3 is, too.
My 06 Civic AT has the following gear positions: P, R, N, D5, D3, 2, 1 Only the ones that start with a "D" will do any automatic gear shifting. There is no lockout between D5 and D3 and the first few times I drove it, I did find myself in D3 at first. But there is an indicator on the dashboard and I got used to selecting D5 very quickly. It is nice to have the free movement from D5 to D3 when passing.
Many cars lock below the primary D position, but then they usually only have a 2 below that instead of another D position. A few cars make up for that deficiency by adding an "O/D off" button. But I prefer the Honda method of giving you a D3 that is accessed by the shifter position. It drives well. I have driven Subarus that also work like the Honda and it is nice once you get used to it.
I have the '06 Sedan MT. No vibrations below 2000 rpms or above. Having driven MT's on and off over many years,driving this car is fun.. and having driven in 2" of fresh North Jersey snow.... pretty darned stable!!pleasantly surprised!
First congrats on manual transmission, it is the onyl way to go!
The vibration problem is only on autmotatics. The transission shifts to high gear at 1,500 rpm and the engine vreiefly lugs at theis engine rpm. However, the upside you get 40 mpg highway. If you complain to Honda and they come out with a TSB (maybe not shift to high gear until 1,750 or 2,000 rpm) you will no longer have the vibration but you will also have lower mpg. Be careful what you ask for!
soon to be double sixes ( 6-speed Accord Coupe, 6-speed Civic Si),
If it really "lugging" the engine and causing stress and damage to it, then Honda needs to fix it. Otherwise, you can put it in D4 for around town driving and save D5 for highway driving if the noise is simply annoying.
Think about it; is is lugging, which isn't good on a new tight engine. What I suspect is that once the car breaks in the engine will loosen up and 1,500 rpm will operate fine without any apparent lugging, stress or vibration.
But during break in, you solution of driving around town in D4 sounds like a good circumvention.
I think the "lugging" term is probably not accurate here. I drive both manuals and automatics and I know what lugging is. What I hear in my car is a resonance at 1500 RPM. It sounds like the exhaust system is resonating. It does it in gears other than 5th so I am thinking it is not necessarily a transmission shift point issue. I can also hear it as I pass through 1500 RPM in 1st. Maybe someone with a manual could check for a similar sound at 1500 RPM?
I think Honda needs to find out what is vibrating and change the attachment method or material. I simply won't use a different gear to avoid the problem. I want Honda to recognize it and fix it. Why let them off the hook when you just spent good money on their car? If this was a domestic brand, I'm sure people wouldn't be so easy on them.
I think I can agree that it's not really lugging. The sound does seem to occur in gears other than 5th. I also heard it starting around 1400. It definitely sounds like an exhaust system resonance. So far, mine is so subtle I don't really find it irritating, yet. It should be a pretty simple fix.
I bought a Civic new back in '93 and had a VERY similar problem with a rattling/resonating sound at a certain RPM. Eventually, they traced the problem to the heat shield on the exhaust manifold. They tightened it and that helped for a while, but the sound came back six months later. I crawled under the car and took the dang thing off.
Perhaps it it something similar or at least exhaust related. When you are sitting still and rev the engine to 1500 do you hear it also? If so, try having someone else rev it while you look underneath and determine where the noise is coming from. Just an idea.
My '06 AT sedan does not have any noise or lugging at all. I am very picky and would be all over the dealer if I heard it in my car. It simply is not there.
If the noise is not on every car then perhaps it is a resonance in the exhaust on some cars. If the issue was the AT programming or "lugging" I have to assume all them would have the problem.
Comments
Not a good comparison.
I needed a fuel efficient automatic sedan for my 50+ mile per day commute and it needed to be reliable and safe (ABS and full side curtain airbags).
I looked for 2 months at new and used cars and the 06 Civic turned out to be the best option for my family and it was within our price range. Make no mistake I do not LOVE this car. I see the purchase as the "smart" thing to do, not the exciting thing to do.
I preferred the power and styling of the Mazda 3i Touring and could've gotten a better price (than the Civic) new and an even better price used. The problem was in finding a used one with low mileage and the full side curtain airbags (they are an option). My issues with the new Mazda3i was that the shifting of the 4sp auto wasn't as smooth as the 5sp Civic, it's MPG are lower, and riding in it made my wife queezy (this is highly subjective).
The Scion Tc is a coupe and didn't meet my Sedan requirement.
The used Civic and Accords were an option but again I couldn't find one with low mileage and the full curtain airbags - which, from what I understand, were an option prior to the 2006 models.
As a side note a I actually paid more for the Civic because I waited and did my due diligence. I worked with a broker and his initial price (quoted a month ago) of 19,400 out the door jumped to 19,800 out the door because the dealers are selling out so quickly. I had to wait for one to be shipped. Anyway I shopped the brokers offer and none of the dealers I went to would match so I figured I got the best price I could.
Can anyone comment? (for personal curiousity)
Also, since the Hybrid's have the antenna mounted on the roof, I don't have to worry, right?
Not a good comparison.
Currently, it's the only comparison of resale value that can be made. That is until '06 figures are available.
Thanks!
Off topic but amusing: If the salesperson calls you by a first name other than your own as you are leaving, you don't have to go back to them, right?
I can't speak for the MT or for mountain driving. I live in gently rolling hills. But I am very happy with the AT and I do not think it will dissapoint any reasonable expectations. It can be downshifted very easily to D3 or 2 or 1 when necessary for engine braking. The new 1.8L engine is designed to have low friction and low pumping resistance, so the engine braking is light. But it would be light with the MT as well. You really need gear 2 for noticeable engine braking. The engine will redline at about 65 or 70 MPH in AT gear 2, I think. So you would want to descend a steep grade a bit slower than that. And of course you will feel the downshift to 2 and hear the engine rev. So engine braking is doable, but not ideal due both to the engine characteristics as well as normal AT limitations.
The 5 speed auto does shift a lot to compensate for terrain, but it is designed to and it is smooth and relatively unnoticeable. It does not seem to hunt for a gear on a steady grade in my short experience with it (1K mi).
One nice thing is that the AT will downshift automatically when going downhill with the cruise control set in order to prevent picking up too much speed. I have not experienced this in any other car I am familiar with.
I am sure that the manual transmission, which has slightly closer gear ratios and of course a clutch, will give you finer control which would be nice for the demands of steep grades and full loads you are asking about. So if this is really your most important consideration, go for the MT. But I am impressed with the AT and think it would be fine for most purposes if you don't want the manual for any reason.
And by the way, the LX has drum rear brakes whereas the EX and some competitive models have rear disc brakes. The brakes work wonderfully, but I guess that might be a consideration for a lot of full-load mountain driving since the discs will resist fade more.
or...
what cost less than 20 grand... LOOKS cool.. Jumps off the line faster than the competition,runs with the rest of the pack re safety.. and has average milage as well as residuals?
A buyer who shops cars for ego satisfaction will pick #2.. a buyer who shops car with a mind towards value/performance/safety in good balance will shop #1
vive' la difference!
All the models with stereos can play MP3s or WMAs off of a CD.
In the EX sedan, you can't play an ipod unless you get the optional Audio input jack installed or the optional Ipod interface or do some aftermarket adapter with an FM modulator.
The EX Coupe has an audio input jack that you can connect your Ipod to.
Some models can play MP3s from a memory card, but I forget which models. Maybe the Navi models?
Brake pads are a lot less expensive than transmission repairs. Leaving your automatic transmission in D is a sensible approach. D2 or D3 are potentially useful in precluding wheelspin when starting out on ice or snow.
True enough, but the trans is covered under warranty, and for those with extended warranties it would be cheaper to have the trans replaced (aka FREE) as opposed to a "normal wear" item like brake pads and rotors. All of this is assuming that the trans would fail while within the warranty period, and not just slightly after it expired, as is usually the case...Hehehe...
Warner
Have you thought about driving a Coupe 5-speed manual just to get a feel for the engine/tranny combo? It may be as close as you can get until you're ready to buy. Hopefully they can find you one if you do decide to get one. The only colors they could find for me were Tango Red (yuck!) and Taffeta White, which I liked, but hated the ivory interior.
The manual does give the car a much different character and much more pickup from stop/low speed. You won't regret going with the manual.
D2 is useful when going down hill in icy and snowy conditions (the rev may be higher but the brakes do not overheat). Also D3, even D2, is useful in stop and go traffic; you'll not get that annoying downshift and lag.
So, manual trans driving techniques can still be applied on Honda trans even though they are not manumatic.
What I still haven't learned is if the Digital Reader takes a Type I or Type II PC Card. Guess I'll learn in two days.
(That's why an occasional iPoder might opt for the aux in over the connection kit)
"Brake pads are a lot less expensive than transmission repairs. Leaving your automatic transmission in D is a sensible approach. D2 or D3 are potentially useful in precluding wheelspin when starting out on ice or snow"
I agree that using the brakes is better than using the transmission for braking. However, there may be circumstances that would cause your brakes to overheat and stop working, which can be very dangerous. I am thinking of very long and steep descents in mountainous areas. Engine braking is a necessary skill to master to prevent brake fade in these circumstances. The post I was replying to was specifically asking about engine braking in mountainous areas with heavy loads.
since we are also on the topic of stereos, i have the lx w/ the four speaker system. i notice that the speakers are really lacking in the highs and the bass is a little unclear - anyone have any idea how to remove the speaker grill or do i have to remove the entire panel to replace the speakers? ( i don't have my service manual yet).
That would be great if you wanted to be inconvenienced by a transmission failure and then be without your vehicle for the few days that it would take to remove your transmission and then install the REMANUFACTURED or REBUILT replacement transmission that would be provided under the warranty. There's no way that you would get a brand new one.
They D gears were usually D4 and D3, but I believe they're now D5 and D4 in models with the 5-speed automatic. One complaint I've always had is how easy it is to overshoot the highest gear and end up one gear lower. The benefit of that, though, is you could easily slide it out of 4th into 3rd for passing.
FM transmitters are good for those who can deal with the sound quality, but audiophiles definitely need something better. The cassette adapter I've used up until now sounds much better than an FM transmitter.
The AUX jack was one of the Civic's most appealing features to me. I didn't end up getting a Civic (no stone throwing, please) and the Mazda3 I bought doesn't have an AUX jack, though it does have a decent sound system. Only a handful of aftermarket companies have created direct ways to connect an iPod on my car. I'm waiting for a new version of a product called AuxMod that costs $110. It will allow me to remove my head unit, connect the product to the input jack for the CD changer and run it down thru the console to connect to my iPod. Supposedly, it will allow full control thru the head unit. I can't believe Mazda doesn't offer any support for this, at least not yet. I applaud Honda for offering the AUX jack and (though pricey) the complete iPod adapter.
Shifting into the new Year,
MidCow
P.S.- With a MT you don't have to ever pay for transmission flushes
As for me, I'm a hardcore manual transmission guy. All my Hondas and Acuras (even my Legend) were manual and my current Mazda3 is, too.
P, R, N, D5, D3, 2, 1
Only the ones that start with a "D" will do any automatic gear shifting. There is no lockout between D5 and D3 and the first few times I drove it, I did find myself in D3 at first. But there is an indicator on the dashboard and I got used to selecting D5 very quickly. It is nice to have the free movement from D5 to D3 when passing.
Many cars lock below the primary D position, but then they usually only have a 2 below that instead of another D position. A few cars make up for that deficiency by adding an "O/D off" button. But I prefer the Honda method of giving you a D3 that is accessed by the shifter position. It drives well. I have driven Subarus that also work like the Honda and it is nice once you get used to it.
First congrats on manual transmission, it is the onyl way to go!
The vibration problem is only on autmotatics. The transission shifts to high gear at 1,500 rpm and the engine vreiefly lugs at theis engine rpm. However, the upside you get 40 mpg highway. If you complain to Honda and they come out with a TSB (maybe not shift to high gear until 1,750 or 2,000 rpm) you will no longer have the vibration but you will also have lower mpg. Be careful what you ask for!
soon to be double sixes ( 6-speed Accord Coupe, 6-speed Civic Si),
MidCow
Otherwise, you can put it in D4 for around town driving and save D5 for highway driving if the noise is simply annoying.
But during break in, you solution of driving around town in D4 sounds like a good circumvention.
Good Luck,
MidCow
I think Honda needs to find out what is vibrating and change the attachment method or material. I simply won't use a different gear to avoid the problem. I want Honda to recognize it and fix it. Why let them off the hook when you just spent good money on their car? If this was a domestic brand, I'm sure people wouldn't be so easy on them.
Perhaps it it something similar or at least exhaust related. When you are sitting still and rev the engine to 1500 do you hear it also? If so, try having someone else rev it while you look underneath and determine where the noise is coming from. Just an idea.
If the noise is not on every car then perhaps it is a resonance in the exhaust on some cars. If the issue was the AT programming or "lugging" I have to assume all them would have the problem.