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2013 and earlier Volkswagen Tiguan Lease Questions
kyfdx
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Car_man
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Looking into getting a Tiguan, but want to play with numbers and make sure I get a good deal with prices. Thanks...
Here's the current JOKE...errrrrr...current deal:
FROM VW WEBSITE: $369 a month 39 months, TAX NOT INCLUDED. Based on MSRP of $24,990 for a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T S with Automatic Transmission, excluding title, taxes, options and dealer charges. Monthly payments total $13,642. Requires dealer contribution of $341.96, which could affect final negotiated transaction. Purchase option at lease end for $13,244.70. 39 month lease, $369 per month.
Your payment including even 7% sales tax would be $385.
YOU COULD BUY IT FOR ONLY ABOUT $15-20 MORE. Don't lease this vehicle. In my opinion VW has very few lease deals.
VW Credit's 39 month, 12,000 mile per year residual value for an '09 Tiguan S is 53%. The residual value for an otherwise identical 48 month lease is 47%.
Remember that VW is waiving the first month's payment and security deposit on leases of '09 models during the Sign Then Drive Event.
Car_man
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low mf pretty good residual + good time to lease. make sure you work out a good cap cost and you got yourself a nice deal.
HERE'S THE DEAL FROM VW
$359/Month. 39-Month Lease
2009 Tiguan 2.0T S with Automatic Transmission
$0 Due at Signing
(excluding title, tax, options and dealer charges)
Or, see your local VW dealer for one of the many other great lease deals available on Tiguans.
©2008 Volkswagen of America, Inc. *U.S. cars only. Based on MSRP of $24,990 for a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T S with Automatic Transmission, excluding title, taxes, options and dealer charges.
$34,196 is invoice (SEL 4motion, black, navigation, panorama)
so NET cap cost is $33,196
MF .00135 RESIDUAL 56%
39 month lease. taxes in lease. NY state.
$430 a month.
i'm not sure about the bank fee i forgot to write it down in my notes. this was almost a week ago but i'm pretty sure it was up front. though if it is covered by the sign then drive event they have then it is not. but like i said, it's not a big deal since the first payment is not covered. so worst case i am paying like $595 + dmv ($90) out of pocket and driving away. the deal makes sense financially. it is the $1000 owner loyalty plus the fact that i got them to lease the car out @ invoice. you just tell them look you can spend 3 weeks see-sawing between every dealer within 50 miles until it comes down to invoice anyway or save your time and let's get it done now. works most of the time, at least for me it has.
SOURCE:
http://www.nydailynews.com/money/2007/08/28/2007-08-28_paying_sales_tax_on_lease- - d_car_drives_a_-2.html
So again. I don't see how you are getting your $440. Not that any of this matters. This whole conversation has been based on a quote you received. You didn't get the car yet. When you do please post the numbers. Until then I don't think it's possible.
the tax rate in NYC is 8.625% (this makes the total taxes on this about $1400 i think off the top of my head
so even with the upfront (the tax sum being added into the cap cost) i am still getting a payment of $429.
you can check it yourself on an auto lease calc. there is a $2 difference in payment when you pay the taxes "in the lease" like you said or "on top of the payment" like in other states. regardless, i don't think $2 a month is that big of a deal.
(39 mo, 15k, .00185 money factor)
it's not brain surgery. funny every car i've gotten people have told me i will never get what i said i was going to get and sure enough i do. it's pretty simple, negotiate the sales price (cap cost) and the MF and residual are what they are.
for the record i was not emailed something this is something i went over in person. do yourself a favor and google a car lease calculator and input the numbers i have said and you get that payment. the fact that this is so unbelievable is the reason car dealers exist, consumers that just lay down on what they are told. there is a "skeleton" to any transaction, instead of just fishing for the lowest payment, better to understand how leases work and negotiate inside out as opposed to letting them play smoke and mirrors with payments. same thing with any loan. people 3 years ago that only cared about interest rates never bothered to look at loan amounts, amortization type, the breakdown of the loan, payoffs, closing costs, yield spread, etc. etc.
but hey not my problem. it is possible to get this car at invoice. it's simple logic you tell the dealer they are wasting their time if they don't give you the car at invoice. you can go back and fourth and play dealers against each other or they can cut their losses and cave in right a way. you will be surprised how well this works. the economy sucks and it is a buyers market. they are more than willing when pushed the right way to make little money. and by they way, they are still making money at invoice. don't let them tell you otherwise. they can't always hit a home run though, sometimes you gotta accept the intentional walk. you get on base, it's not fun, and it doesn't help out much. but at least you don't strike out if you are the dealer.
you would also be best advised to ask them for a detailed run through of the numbers. once you get the money factor, residual, the cap cost, how much they are selling the car to you for (even on a lease) you now have the "dna" of the lease deal they are offering and can shop this with multiple dealers. if you want the car that day after you go through the detailed numbers, balk at any price above invoice, or whatever level you wanna pay. just tell them that you are ready to to business right then are there but refuse to get the car for anything over invoice. you can throw in how eventually you can deal with multiple dealers and eventually get what you want anyway or the sales guy you are dealing with can just cut his time spent and give you a deal you are going to get in the future anyway now and save himself the time. the time he saves dealing with you, the shrewd consumer, is more time he has to try to deal with the non shrewd consumer. remember, unless it is like a brand new car that has all types of hype, invoice is pretty easy to get if you push the right buttons. they will tell you they make no money at invoice but there is still a small little cushion for them at invoice. not a ribeye steak but like a cracker. but hey, a cracker is better than nothing when you are hungry. and with the state of the economy, all car dealers are hungry if not starving.
i got my mother a jetta in april as part of the sign and drive when it was nothing up front. not even taxes.
i'm pretty sure the deal advertised was $249 with nothing due up front at all except like DMV fee. the advertised car was manual. she ended up getting automatic and the winter package for the same price. $249. i think i posted about it on this forum and someone else said i was full of [non-permissible content removed] but whatever.
The whole issue for me was the 36 month vs. 39 month periods
That extra 3 months flips you into a new year and really extends the lease term, probably at a time when you can't wait to get out of that 3 year old lease.
Here's what I was given as a quote for a 36 month which was @20.00/month
more than the 39 month version:
36 month 10k/mi year $395/month incl tax, NY Dealer
with 4motion, Roof & Navighation & Rearshades & Monster Mats Kit
$500 out the door, loyalty money applies
Yes, no leather in the SE is Ridiculous. The color choices are also pretty bad, what were they smoking when the chose that Blue???
Loaed SEL version as above should hit around $430-440 momnth I am guessing?
MSRP $31,484 Invoice $28934, dealer cash for December is $578 on the SE so real invoice is $28,356.
Selling $29,813
Residual 56%
Money Factor 0.00135
Acquisition Fee $575
Cap Red. $624.
Doc Fee: $218
Runner $40.00
RMV $86.
Monthly pre-tax is $375
I know acquisition is non-negotiable, but Doc fee seems high, and what the heck is a runner? I need to get the car to invoice before I will come close to leasing this car. We seem to have a lot of 4Motions in New England, so they're not scarce
Dealer 1 is the closest to me, right down the street, did the test drive, told them to show me a number. SE with roof, protection kit, and trailer hitch. This is with no negotiation at all:
MSRP $31484
Invoice: $29306
Buy price: $29813
Aquisition: $575
Doc fee: $258
Registration: $86
Down total: $1000
Sales Tax 5%
$393.82/month with tax.
Total Lease cost: $16,358.98
I walked immediately, saying I wasn't interested.
I then solicited 2 other offers on the (almost) same car via email. Really wanted the white SE, so even though there are a lot of cars out there, white SE 4 motions are not all that easy to find around here. No hitch and the others and they had mat kits, not protection. I told all I didn't care about the mats. They could keep them. Was able to sneak about $100 below invoice giving me a monthly of $375 with tax, after a solid week of back and forth and meeting and beating offers. Both dealers wanted $599 on the bank fee though and wouldn't budge, as well as $29 extra for the inspection sticker.
Went back to dealer 1 on Dec. 30. Started with a buy price on the lease $500 under invoice (knowing they still had $78 in the holdback). No dice with the salesman, $400 over best he could do. Brought out the sales manager. I had printouts of the emails from the other dealers showing them that it was indeed possible to get below invoice. Told them I didn't need the hitch. They could keep the mats and take off the mudguards for all I cared. Leave it empty on gas too, gas is cheap right now. $250 over invoice best he could do. Got to the general manager. Spent a good hour just with him, back and forth. Got to invoice finally. Did the whole "do you even know how a holdback works?" game. I walked.
Dec. 31. Back to the dealer #1. Again, closest to home. Didn't want the hitch or mats/protection, but that's what was in stock. I brought a check and laid it on the desk, wrote in the dealer name. Told them $29,213 buy price ($93 under invoice and $600 less than my initial quote with them), I make the check out for $919 now and sign the papers.
Why $919? Aquisition: $575 + Doc fee: $258+ Registration: $86. Did NOT want to roll these into the lease cost and pay interest on it. Also I firmly believe it is never a great idea to use cash as a cap reduction on a lease, for various reasons if the car is totaled.
I got the deal! Lease per month is $372.19 with tax. VW pays first payment per sign and drive, and the inspection sticker is thrown in.
Total lease cost: $15434.31.
My savings: $924.57.
What I learned: The holdback is fairly sacred money. I was able to get $93 of their holdback, so they still got $485. But getting much lower than that was impossible for me. Probably because it's a 2009 model, it's all wheel drive, winter, and a blizzard outside too.
Acquisition and Doc are not set in stone. There must be a minimum VW value for these, but dealers can clearly mark them up a bit to make it seem like you're way under invoice.
VW dealers seem to stick to the published VW lease rates. I've known some BMW dealers who will try to pull a fast one on the money factor to make some cash. Sleazy. I was impressed by this. Also, the money factor isn't that bad right now on these cars. 0.00135 is 3.24% interest.
When negotiting a lease, start with the buy price of the car. As you can see, I will have $924 more in my pocket by negotiating. Wasn't that easy, but well worth it.
The acquisiton fee is legit and you will never get out of paying it. Never put ANY money down on a lease, ever. You could have paid your first 2 payments with that money.
Car_man
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Will appreciate if someone can let know your thoughts on the below based on your expertise/experience. Where can I get them to improve or negotiate?. Got this from a Dealer in Houston, TX.
"12k per year is $429.45 and the 15k per year is $442.68. Now, I forgot to include owner loyalty of $500. So, with the owner loyalty and you paying your TTL, your payment would be for the 15k per year plan $416.20 a month.
PRICE $ 23,642.00
STATE LOCAL TAX $ 1,493.19
PHANTOM $ 249.00
DOCUMENTARY $ 50.00
TITLE $ 33.00
LICENSE $ 59.80
INSPECTION $ 23.75
CITY ROAD & BRIDGE $ 11.50
INSURANCE & REG $ 1.00
INVENTORY TAX $ 52.23
DRIVE OUT $ 25,615.46
Thanks
Fco
I think your average payment for a car this price should be $330-370 or so. Depending on lease factors. I would go back and try again. Get other quotes from other dealers too.
Seems a little off. I have a $24k car and I only pay $319, with $0 down. Standard lease. Though, lease numbers play a role, but only to a point.
Once you get the MSRP (should be on the window sticker), find the invoice price, again with options that you have on the vehicle. This should be the price you start from in negotiating your lease. Google a lease calculator and use it to see how much of a difference your buy price makes, usually a fair amount. You want to get as close to invoice as possible and if there is a large supply you can probably get beneath it. If your heart is set on one color or option package then it will be harder. You can also find out the dealer incentives, either again by sleuthing through the Google, or buying the Consumer Reports Tiguan info for January ($14). As an example, my SE 4 Motion had a $578 dealer holdback until Jan. 2. I was able to use this in my negotiations a little bit as I knew how much they would still take on the car.
Finally, don't put money down as a cash cap reduction. I did opt to pay $919 out of pocket on mine, but these were for origination fees only. Not to reduce the vehicle price. A true VW 'sign then drive' lease rolls these into the lease.
Also realize that the VW bumper to bumper warranty is only 36,000 miles. I can put up to 39,000 miles on my car. I'm not a fan of the 39 month lease for this reason. But occasionally VW and others will offer to 'pull ahead' leases near the end of term. I will gamble with the last 3000 miles being not under total warranty. VW also pays the first month on a sign then drive which is nice.
I leased my Tiguan S with MANUAL transmission w/ monster mats and gorilla gear for $320/month tax included and $500 down (against the origination/admin fees). The lease is for 39 months and with 15,000 miles allowance a year.
It was a bit of a strategic layered attack...first bringing the cap cost down (MSRP was $24,200); then bringing down the money factor; then going after the residual value; and then going after the dealer fees/holdbacks/etc. There was still some fat for me to trim but my wife was tired from the days of going back and forth so I had to pull the trigger prematurely but I guess it was decent enough.
The car drives great and is a lot of fun with that 2.0T engine matted to the 6MT!
I think your average payment for a car this price should be $330-370 or so. Depending on lease factors. I would go back and try again. Get other quotes from other dealers too.
Seems a little off. I have a $24k car and I only pay $319, with $0 down. Standard lease. Though, lease numbers play a role, but only to a point.
Actually lease numbers play a significant role. Matter of fact, they are the only factors. I pay $340 on an MSRP $32,000 car (36 months, zero down, 10K). Leases are solely determined by the money factor and residual. It is assumed that you have already negotiated a good selling price. My point is, you really shouldn't shop cars, you should shop the best lease numbers. You may find a $28,000 Honda Accord that leases for $480 per month. You may find a $28,000 Subaru Outback that leases for $350. The difference is in the money factor and residuals.
MSRP $31,305
INVOICE $29,314
SELLING PRICE $28, 814
Which i think is a good offer, however, the lease numbers seemed way too high for a $28k car.
Lease Offer: $1500 down, $536/Month, 36 Months, 12k Miles/Year
Does anyone know what the current money factor is on a 36 month Tiguan? This offer seems almost laughable.
Appreciate any feedback. Thanks
There is no set money factor on any lease.
EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE.
You should be able to get a money factor close to .00135 but you got to fight for it.
You will also want bring the cap cost down through negotiation, not through money down. You will also want to negotiate up the residual value (perhaps around 58%) as well as the number of miles allowance per year.
I don't know the current lease rates as they expired Jan. 2, but the numbers I ran with the old MF of 0.00135 and residual of 56% come out to a $392/month with ZERO down, including the $575 bank fee.
I am glad I got the panoramic roof, but it is a $1300 option ($1148 invoice). Make sure you want navigation as I have heard mixed reviews of how good it is.
Also, get numbers for $0 down and then play with paying some of the bank fees out of pocket if you have some cash. I got to a decent deal doing it that way.
The lease numbers are set by the finance company. Residuals are set but will usually increase if you get a lower mileage lease. The money factor will be set on every model and most of the time it even depends on the trim level. The only time these numbers will EVER change is if you haven't negotiated a low enough sale price. For example: a car MSRP's for $28,000 and you go in and say "I'll give you $27,500 for it." The dealer is simply going to rework the money factor and residual to make it seem like you got some killer deal. 95% residual makes up for the fact that you could've got a sale price of $23,000.
A smart person gets several email quotes on the money factor and residual and checks forums like this THEN negotiates a fantastic selling price. If the dealer tries to stick it to you by lowering the residual or increasing the money factor you call him on it. So really, for most people, the only thing negotiable on a lease is the sale price. Everything else will be set in stone. The money factor will vary depending on your credit worthiness but the residual isn't going to change until new numbers are set by the finance company.
I shopped around a fair amount by email, and I found every VW dealer in my area to stick to the published lease rates exactly. That made me feel pretty good. BMW on the other hand had tried to make it sneaky last time I leased. You really do have to put in your due diligence in researching leases before you go to the dealer.
Also, be careful when email shopping of dealers that won't give out prices via email. That's why they have an internet department. In reality, they want to hook you on email, then get you into the dealer to make a sale. Sales are emotional events, you're much more likely to cave in person. Don't. State up front that you want to do everything on email. It can be painfully slow, but if they want to sell cars then they have to utilize the (outdated) technology.
If I were a car dealer, I would fully embrace the web 2.0 experience. Get on facebook, get prices out on twitter. Do deals in text messaging. I only found one dealer who played the email game well, and that means quick messages, no crap ads, and real negotiations.
I did my entire last lease via email. After first email dealer said, "call me" and I said I preferred to use email only. He respected my wishes and once we had an actual written deal in place I agreed to call him to give him my Social Security number for credit check. Then I said I would come in to sign the paperwork but if they tried any sales tactics on me I was running for the door. He had the paperwork ready when I arrived and I looked it over, signed, and was out the door in about 30 minutes. That's the only way I will ever deal with car salesmen ever again. The key to doing this, in my opinion, is to be upfront with the salesman from the start. Tell them you are not just wasting their time looking. You have a specific vehicle in mind and you know what the invoice price is and money factor, residual etc. Once they figure out that you aren't some dumb melon farmer, they will quit trying to jerk you around and try to sell a car.
I live in New Jersey and I haven't seen any new dealer incentives since the last ones expired at Feb. 2nd.
Thanks
VW Credit's current buy rate lease money factor and residual value for a 36 month lease of a 2009 Tiguan SE 4Motion with 15,000 miles per year are .00130 and 51%, respectively.
When negotiating your lease on this truck, make sure to take the $1,000 cash incentive that VW is currently providing on leases of it into account.
Car_man
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Thanks!
I have a couple questions.
Is the dealer obligated to pass on the $1000 cash rebate and $500 loyalty rebate on to the customer. Do these rebates apply to the MSRP?
What is the source of the .00130 and 51% that you quoted and does that apply to all trim levels? Dealers are reluctant to give these figures out.
I'm looking for a 36 mo. / 10000 mil lease. The trim level will depend upon the price range I can negotiate.
Thanks
Edmunds is vague about what trim levels and terms the $1000 applies to in the incentives area, and the dealer I dealing with is playing dumb with the "I never heard of a $1000 incentive" game. All they claimed to know about was the $500 loyalty. This is in CA, but I assume the $1000 is nationwide?
Dealer Invoice Prices:
$30,668 (SEL 4Motion AWD)
$750 Destination Charge
$1758 Navigation System
$150 Mat Kit
=Total of $33,326
Now here's where it gets interesting:
$33,326 selling price
$2,333 selling tax
$254 4 yr vehicle registration fee
$99 Doc Fee
$7.50 NJ Tire Tax Fee
=Total of 36,019.50
minus-$3,000 I'd put down
minus-$1,000 VW dealer cash
New financing total $32,020
Dealer came up with $464 mthly payment on 36 mth 12k a year lease.
Now is it me or is this monthly lease payment still rather high for the amount I'm putting down? :confuse: Any feedback and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
But, no.. $3000 upfront and $464/mo. seems like a lot for a Tiguan... they just don't lease out very well..
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