Hyundai Elantra Touring 2009 -



  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Glad your experience is good. I concur with your list. Mine is the 5spd SE in Black Pearl. Took delivery March 1 and am right at 7K miles, the result of a long commute. Other items I would have liked, and commented to Hyundai on:

    1. Homelink. The mirror based system is made by a company in the US, but is available in Europe and not here???
    2. Tinted windows. Please! Those of us in Texas don't all like to get sunburn while driving INSIDE the car.
    3. How about the 2.4GDI with the 6spd, and call it the Elantra Hauler? :shades:
    (It would fit, and brother, would it run! Mazdaspeed my [non-permissible content removed].) :surprise:
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    edited July 2010
    lol...I really wonder sometimes about the bean counter's decisions! My car came with dark tint windows (they were tossed in for free!) and it really helps ease the load on the a/c. I live in Vegas so it's not just for vanity!
    Question: does anybody know the reason the moon roof opens 7/8th of the way on auto but can be retracted into the roof manually? I did notice that if it is opened all the way, there is pretty bad buffeting at speed. The turbulence is almost non-existent when left in the auto-open position. I do like the auto-close feature as my Mazda didn't have that.
    It'll be interesting to see how the chrome inserts in the 17" wheels hold up. I can already hear some clacking when getting underway. They look sharp but I'm sure they're going to get a little noisy after a while.
    The black pearl w/5-spd sounds like a nice combo! I passed on a similar one before deciding to buy and kind of regret it. The silver is fine, though. Just not an emotional choice... :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I read somewhere in the manual that the 7/8 auto open was exactly for the reason you suspect, that it is the position that is optimal to reduce buffetting. My '05 GT didn't have that feature and a certain speeds I had to open a window.

    As a nod to "Pirates of the Carribean", the Touring is referred to in the household as "The Pearl". :)
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    edited July 2010

    Drove it today with a set of steel rims and the hankooks( 15"? )

    THe pull wasnt as bad, but the dyanmic of it not want ing to go straight was still present. IMO the smaller wheels were masking the problem...i.e the wheels and tires are not the problem. The alignment specs for both the 09 and 10s are the same. The units however are different. The 09 specs are listed in degrees and minutes...where the 10s are in degrees.

    Also the voltage drop when theres a load( accessories running) at idle was not fixed by a new alternator.

    I have a charger/tester...and here where my results

    battery w/out car on- 12.5-12.6
    battery at idle 13.6-13.7
    battery at idle with all accessories on( AC/Radio/lights/wipers) 12.1

    I got the same numbers before the new alternator was put in.

    Rental corolla had a higher output when car was off(13.0-13.1)....and only dropped from 13.4 to 13.3 when all accessories were turned on.

  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    WOW!! Maybe for the first time in my life, I have a car that isn't out to get me. My '10 GLS with 15' steelies does not pull at all. After what I have been through with vehicles, this is a small victory believe me. The only negative I have encountered is the strut/strut top/spring squeek on the driver's side. Since I don't drive the car, I don't plan on fixing it any time soon.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    APRIL, 2010
    NOTE: This bulletin supersedes TSB 09-SS-010 to correct applicable vehicle
    production date range.
    Some Elantra, & Elantra Touring vehicles may exhibit a noise originating from the front
    struts when passing over bumps or dips at speeds of 10 - 16 mph.
    Applicable vehicle production date range: JOB #1 to September 25, 2009.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    When it cools a bit I will go check the voltages on mine. I read that the alternator is some sort of super efficient unit, but 12.1 means you are running on battery. For short periods of time (as in stop and go traffic) that isn't a big deal, but it is still surprising. If this is like most alternators, as the voltage goes down, the current output is going up. You can reach a point where the regulator cannot allow enough output. Sort of protects the charging system that way.

    I will let you know what readings I get. You know, you get the same symptom if the idle is too low. Just a thought.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    edited July 2010
    Hi Jim-

    Everything Ive read suggests ~ 1.7 volt drop is way too much. Unfortunately the problem is that the fan speed slows, wipers slow, and lights dim. Again, the rental toyota I tested behaved as I expected since theres no loss running the accessories at idle. Just 0.1 drop in voltage was all when all accessories were on.

    Is this correct- Isnt that the whole point of the regulator to supply the battery with enough charge when the alternator isnt producing enough at idle?

    The odd thing is they determined the first alternator was no good- but the numbers I got from my test and symptoms are the same with both "good and "bad" alternators.

    Good point on the idle...Ill check what it is in drive vs spec. Thanks!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited July 2010
    Battery only: 13.0 (this was just after turning the car off. Typical would be 12.6
    Idle, no load: 14.1
    Idle, full load: 12.1
    2K RPM, Full Load: 13.8

    Which is exactly how I would expect the alternator to behave. What the regulator does is maintain a steady preset voltage regardless of how fast the alternator is turning, or how heavy the load is. Typically, if you are turning one fast enough to put out the rated current capacity, it will stay right in the 13.6 to 14.2 volt range. What you are seeing is that the alternator is not turning fast enough to produce its rated capacity. This isn't just a Hyundai thing, I have seen it on everything I have worked on. The only way around it is to either raise the idle speed, or use a smaller pulley on the alternator causing it to spin faster. Either of these methods will affect fuel economy, though only by a small amount.

    Your dealer should know this. I have tested GM, Ford, and Chrysler, as well as various other brands, and this is very common. After all, if the engine is at idle, you aren't moving, so the wipers, fan speed, etc just are not as critical. One other variable that will sometimes raise it's ugly head is heat. I have seen solid state regulators in alternators that would do fine until the underhood temps got high, like we see here in Texas during the summer. Then you can see one fall on it's face, even when the engine is above idle.

    This is why you can't really charge the battery in a car by letting it idle. If you have a good battery, and turn off all accessories and lights, it will give the battery a boost. But fully loaded and you just run the battery down further.

    Alternators. Gotta love 'em.

    EDIT: I just went the the Hyundai Tech pages and found that the current and voltage output of the alternator should be tested at 2500RPM. There is no mention of any testing done at idle.

    If you would like, go to and set up an account. Hyundai puts TSB, Shop manuals, pretty much the whole enchilada on that site.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    edited July 2010
    Ok, Now Ill ask the obvious, lol.

    Does your fan, wipers slow/headlights dim when at idle? Ive never driven a modern vehicle( made within the last 15 years that does this

    BTW I do have hmaservice account. Its helped in every way possible except getting my car to behave properly. :confuse:

    I did it when the car was hot too...and my battery only gave a 12.6 when off. Thoughts?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Yep. They also slow down on the '99 Blazer, the '02 Blazer, the '04 Yukon we just sold (but not as much).

    If you look at the service site, they show the output of that alternator to be 45A minimum under load. The rated capacity of the alternator is going to be marked on the casing, but I couldn't see it from the top. That is a small alternator. I would guess maybe 85A maximum, and that may be generous.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    12.6V is the correct voltage for a fully charge battery. For a short time after turning the engine off, when the alternator has been running 13.8 to 14.1, you will get a higher voltage. As I indicated, I saw 13.0. If you leave your meter on the battery and watch, it will slowly drop to 12.6V, possible a little lower.

    That is because a lead-acid battery is made up of six 2.1V cells. Drop one cell and you will read 10.5V. And your car probably won't start. :sick:
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    I just tested this on my wifes aveo. No loss- accessories are as strong at idle as they are under acceleration. My 08 infiniti didnt do this. The rental toyota doesnt The speeds of the elantra fan motor and wipers are barely adequate w/out loss. Sigh... Im really having a hard time believing this is normal.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    What speed does the Aveo idle at? The output of the alternator is a function of it's speed when you are at idle. Get much above idle and it is a moot point. If you took two identical alternators and put a smaller pulley on one, then connect them to the same engine, the one with the smaller pulley will begin output before the one with the larger pulley.

    Is it possible you have a bad ground or power buss connection? That should have been checked out also. In simple terms, a poor connection acts like an additional load on the alternator in that you get a voltage drop across it. So if, for instance, your electric fan on the vent ran at say, 600RPM at 12.6V, but you have a poor connection, you will drop voltage across both the fan and the bad connection, so that the fan is no longer getting all the voltage, but only what hasn't dropped across the bad connection. It will look like a weak alternator, but the true clue is to measure the voltage drop from the B+ terminal of the alternator to ground, then measure from the B+ to the positive battery terminal. There should be little if any voltage measured. Same with the ground side. Ground is ground, and if there is a voltage between the frame and the negative side of the battery, bad connection and you won't get full voltage to the accessories.

    When I mentioned that the Yukon didn't have much of a voltage drop, I should have stated that it turned the alternator at a higher speed during idle, and was a 140A alternator. Designed for extended idling and still charging.

    Hyundai advertises that it uses high efficiency alternators for improved fuel economy. Now you may have figured out how they did it. No charging at idle, which effectively means no load on the engine at idle.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    Ill be traveling Ill post thurs or fri.

    Thanks Jim- youve been a big help.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    I came to this forum because my current car is a 2001 Elantra GT 5-speed and the 2009+ Elantra Touring is the current equivalent.

    My 2001 Elantra is about to turn 225,000 miles and has been relatively trouble-free, particualrly for it's mileage. The only non-maintenance items that have been replaced are the passenger front wheel bearing (at 210,000 miles), the oil pan (because I stripped out the drain plug threads - doh!), the long-side half shaft (190,000 miles), and the MAP sensor (215,000 miles). I've changed the timing belt every 95,000 miles and performed all rotine maintenance as prescribed (or ahead of time). The only real mechanical issue is the fact that the synchronizing gears in the manual transmission seem to be pretty worn with some mild grinding (if you don't shift slowly) when shifting into 2nd and 5th gears.

    Amazing original parts include the alternator, the rear struts (they still feel good), the short-side half shaft, fuel filter, and oil and fuel pumps (particularly since I have driven my gas tank to near empty most of the time).

    All that aside, I am considering two cars for a replacement. One of course is the 2011 Elantra Touring (5-speed). The other is the 2011 Nissan Versa hatchback (5-speed). Both cars are roomy and have good luggage capacity and seem to have gotten good reviews from owners. The Versa definitely has better gas mileage and will cost me about $3,000 less. I also like the look of the Versa better - wish the Elantra would have kept its true "hatchback" look like the one I own as it looks like a station wagon now. The only feature I like that I would not get on the Versa is leather seats (been riding on leather seats for 9 years in my current Elantra). And that $3,000 price difference is pretty tempting.

    My current Elantra has been the most reliable car I have ever owned. I know nothing about how the Versa will last. I do plan to own my next car for another 9-10 years, so long-term reliability is very important. I am also a spirited driver (which can stress cars a bit more than the normal driver), but I also take very good care of my cars related to maintenance.

    What do you all think of the Versa compared to the Elantra Touring? I will not be buying right away, but plan to buy within the next 6 months. Thanks!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    2011 Touring? Is that even available yet?

    Don't know about the '11, but the '10 was not available with leather, only the standard and premium cloth. My '10 Touring SE is a blast to drive. I put about 60K on an '05 Elantra GT, and I would have to say the "sports wagon" Touring handles just as good if not better. I can easily get 34MPG on the highway running 70 with the air on. And the ride is better on the Touring.

    Just my .02 cents worth.
  • bamacarbamacar Member Posts: 749
    A couple of the preview websites say leather will be standard on the 2011 SE.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    edited July 2010
    Yes, the 2011 is not available yet, but I have seen "leather" listed as standard on the higher end model here on Edmunds.

    I was able to test drive a 2010 base automatic tonight and ride seemed nice. I am just not so sure I like the "wagon" look. In my opinion, the old "hatchback" look of my current 2001 Elantra GT looks much sportier, just a little dated in overall styling now. :)

    Any comments on the Versa? Seems like a decent car for the money.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I liked the look of the hatchback, but the Touring is good looking in black pearl. One thing I have noticed though is that the front bumper is a very soft vinyl and rocks will put nicks in it pretty easily.

    If I had known at the time that leather would be in the 2011 I would have waited. Well, I might have waited. I drive over 60 miles a day in my commute, and the car I was driving could barely manage 20MPG and had over 90K miles on it. Normally that wouldn't be too much of a concern, but as the third owner, I didn't know how well it had been cared for in its early life.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I stand corrected. The local dealer listed a 2011 Touring GLS on their web site, and I went by to see if it was real. It was. It looks EXACTLY like a 2010 inside and out, except for one thing. The roof rails are silver/gray satin finish. Which, to be honest, did not look that good on the bright blue car. All the other trim bits are black, so the rails look like an add-on.

    The only way you could tell this was a 2011 was the rails mentioned above, and the window sticker that stated "2011 Elantra Touring GLS"
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    See if you can find the SE model. It is supposed to have leather seats as standard equipment along with beefy tires.

    My local Hyundai dealer (one that I don't trust) said the 2011 Elantra Touring would not begin being built for another 3 months. I thought that was not true and figured he just wanted to try to sell one of his many 2010 models on his lot.

    Typical car dealer . . .
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited July 2010
    The GLS was the only one they had.

    BTW, I think the leather interior is limited to the sedan SE, and not the Touring SE.

    I tried to "backdoor" investigate and see if leather replacement seat covers were available through Hyundai for the Touring, and they are. Very expensive. What I couldn't determine is if this was a non-US option as several items are with the Touring, most notably the Homelink rearview mirror. As I have mentioned before, this is very strange since the mirror is produced for sale in the US, but not available as a factory installed option. Other items are the back up sensors, the diesel engine option that is apparently very popular in Europe, etc.
  • bamacarbamacar Member Posts: 749
    edited July 2010
    I don't know about the sedan, but the Touring looks to have leather in the 2011 SE.


    Hyundai of Tampa
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I will keep my eyes out for an SE to show at the dealer. I had leather in my '05 GT and was impressed with it's quality. 60K miles and it still looked like new.

    I still think it is weird that homelink is available, but not in the US. Our other car is a 2010 Tucson Ltd, every option except all wheel drive. Homelink was not available on it, either.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    Got the car back. Not much difference despite a few tweaks...swapped out the rims for the steel wheels...calibration of the electric steering...full rotation of the tires. Torque pull really isnt the issue, Now if I full throttle it at any point, I do feel a little extra tug to the right, but under normal acceleration and crusing, I can write that off as a contributing cause. I drive a highway daily that the left lane does crown to the left, and if it does drift left, it can be compensated for like in any other car. Now we wait for another Hyundai Rep to come to the dealership.

    The other problem is the accessory power drop off at idle. As Ive stated, Havent driven a modern day vehicle that does this. While on vacation, I tested other family members cars, and the only drop of voltage between all tested were 0.1 volts( from idle to full load) and of course no slowdown of accessories. Sounds like the voltage regulators are doing the job. My car? Not so drops from 13.8 to 12.2-12.3. when accessories are on.

    Jim- youve explained this as normal, but my anecdotal testing/evidence sure puts my car in the minority.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Your Elantra (and mine) have 95A alternators. Most American made vehicles will be 105A to 130A, depending on the make and model. I am afraid that what you are experiencing is normal for the alternator used in this application. The easiest way to change the design would be to use a smaller diameter pulley on the alternator to increase it's spinning speed at idle.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    Is there an alternator that has higher amperage?

    How hard is it to find a smaller diameter pulley?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Hyundai does have a 120A alternator, but it uses a different connection scheme, so that's not an option.

    You might try an alternator rebuild shop and see if they can fit a smaller pulley.

    I have to ask, why is this such a problem? Do you idle the car for extended periods of time with all the accessories and lights on?

    I stated earlier that the car has a 95A alternator, and I believe that is incorrect. It is actually a 90A.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Because of a compression of time schedule at work today, I was put in a position of using my Touring to deliver some material to a vendor. I pulled around to the loading dock at work and the guys looked at the stack of seven big boxes, and looked at "Pearl".

    They started laughing and said "Dude, those will never fit in that little thing".

    But they did. All seven, though I did have to put one in the front passengers seat. Made me a little nervous to drive in bumper to bumper traffic with cargo worth five times the value of the car! :surprise:
  • hyundaivirginhyundaivirgin Member Posts: 8
    Sounds like the making of a good commercial. Guy pulls up in Touring at loading dock, people laugh and say "Dude, those will never fit in that little thing." Next second you see the guy whistling to his iPod while hauling 7 big boxes through traffic. Next second it's evening and you see the ET sans boxes driving through a nice neighborhood. He gets out dressed in a nice suit to open the door for his date. The date hold up some evidence of his earlier activities in the car and asks what's this. He says something like I drive around valuable items during the day too!
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    Its not a big problem, but imo compared to every other car Ive driven it seems to defeat the purpose of the system.

    Also, the fan and the wipers are pretty weak under max speed regardless. The loss under load makes it that much weaker.

    In the end, I can live with that if that cant be made different. However...its secondary to the unresolved pulling to the right.

    Theres absolutely no compromise there. Fix it, find one that drives straight, or Hyundai buys it back. Waiting for another rep from Hyundai.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    I noticed another thing with the steering wheel that strikes me as odd. That being the wheel offsets to the right when left "unattended". We know which way the car goes. Again, it doesnt matter what road, or what speed- the wheel and the corresponding behavior are the same. Didnt really notice it before since it requires taking the eyeballs off the road.

    It feels like the steering settles in a "notch" (for lack of a better descriptor). Now, if Im traveling in a lane thats crowned to the left, the car tracks considerably better with the steering wheel in this same position. Why this "notch" isnt with the steering wheel pointing straight ahead is puzzling. Still playing the waiting game and becoming increasingly disenchanted with Hyundai( not really the dealer) each passing day....

    Also, does anyone have issues with bad harmonics on the highway? Kind of like a pulsating buzz/vibration felt in the floor boards and steering wheel? Its somewhat audible as well.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    edited July 2010
    Sorry for your troubles blh. I have the harmonics thing on my 09 Vibe, which means it is the Corolla transmission. Mine has settled down after 25,000 miles however. I hope the same happens with your HET. It was most noticable in the 65-70 mph range. I also do not have any pull whatsoever in my '10 HET.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited August 2010
    Yep, I drive a bit. But the commute on the highway is sweet. 30 miles each way, and consistently getting just over 30mpg. Morning is cruising at 70+, afternoon a mix of 60ish and stop and go.

    Only a couple of minor issues; buzzy shifter, small rattle in the dash vent on the passengers side. I should note here that I am very picky when it comes to such things.

    Also own a 2010 Tucson, so I went to the parts department and bought a 10 pack of oil filters. Both will get changes every 3 months; Mine will be at 5K miles, Tucson at 3-3.5K since it is driven almost exclusively in town.

    Still getting comments from folks on the looks of "Pearl" (black pearl paint). I am quite satisfied with the vehicle.
  • berrodlberrodl Member Posts: 1
    I am in the process of purchasing a 2010 Elantra Touring w/o Bluetooth installed. The dealer said they could install it for me for a price. Is dealer installed as good as factory installed? Any major differences? Has anyone experienced this and could help me out? If the dealer installed isn't as good as factory, then I'll keep looking for a car that already has it installed. Thanks.
  • carthellcarthell Member Posts: 130
    If the unit is already installed in the car by the factory, it will cost less than the parts and labor that the dealer would charge; it makes sense to see which dealers in your area have what you want already installed.
  • brek1brek1 Member Posts: 19
    On the other hand, if you really want a 2010 (instead of a 2011) your chances may be slim of finding one with the bluetooth factory installed. I just bought a 2010 SE last night :) and can tell you it was not easy finding one. Many dealers simply do not have any in stock and because prices seem so low, the ones that are left are going rather quickly. We had to settle for our 3rd choice of color...
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The dealer will (or at least should) install the Hyundai Bluetooth kit. If you want, you can read up on it at They have the complete instructions on how to install the kit. It is more involved than I would have thought.
  • strei007strei007 Member Posts: 16
    I've noticed that if your car is not level when filling your gas tank your fill can vary by up to one gallon. When the front of the car is slightly lower than the back you can get extra fuel into the tank. This works the opposite when the front of the car is higher than the back. My gas mileage has varied from 30mpg to 38mpg from one fill to the next because of this. I've had to average out numerous fills to get a good estimate of gas mileage. After about 10 fills my average is 34-35 mpg. This is on the 5sp with a daily hwy commute of 15 miles each way. Once, I did a 250 mile hwy trip and filled up at the same pump before and after. I got 36 mpg. Interestingly the gas gauge was exactly 1/2 full and I got exactly 7 gals in. The total fuel capacity is 14 gal.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    That is about the same mileage I am getting under similar conditions. I do better if I keep my foot out of it, but "Pearl" is really comfortable at 3500RPM (that would be ~80mph for you automatics drivers. ;) )
  • kingdomsakingdomsa Member Posts: 14
    I have the same dead throttle segment between idle and 2000 rpm - on my 2010 Elantra manual. I can deal well with it on takeoff, but yeah - but it lurches driving at low speed in traffic. Did you ever get a solution? Are you living with it?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Hyundai says no solution, and I think I may have figured something out. While the 2.0L will pull strong from 3K to 6K, it is totally gutless under 2K. Surprisingly so. The ECM does allow throttle control for about 30 seconds after start on a cold motor, but brother, it doesn't give you anything.

    May just be a way for Hyundai to use the ECM to be sure you are in the torque band when you drop the clutch. In the automatic, you can accomplish the same thing with a high stall torque converter.

    Now, if they would just put GDI on that motor... oh, yeah :shades:
  • kingdomsakingdomsa Member Posts: 14
    Thanks for your response. Yeah, you are probably right about hyundai trying to foolproof the throttle using logic to keep rpms up for more torque. Too bad, since buyers of manuals generally are looking for more control, not less (at least those of us in the states). I'd like simple linear throttle response, please.
  • nsakinsaki Member Posts: 2
    I have been a big Honda fan for years. Recently, after an exterminating truck totaled my CRV I went shopping. After checking out all kinds of cars I ended up buying a 2010 ET on August 1. Now, with 4000 miles I can report that the car is practical as well as a lot of fun to drive and the price is unbeatable. I highly recommend the popular pkge #2 as well worth the extra money. The mileage has averaged about 27 mpg in city/highway driving and have gotten close to 32 mpg on the highway.

    If I had to complain about something it would be the need for a better, louder horn which to me is a safety issue. But overall, I am very happy.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    You can get a 115 decibel PIAA horn that sounds great and is plenty loud for about $50. Check youtube for videos of the PIAA 500 and the PIAA 600 if you're interested in swapping out.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Coming home today came over the hill of a three lane freeway, only to see the two inside lanes stopped, and the outside lane (the one I was in) still moving at about 65. This is on a downhill ramp with guard rails on the inside lane, and a narrow shoulder bordered by a concrete wall on the outside lane.

    As soon as I crested the hill, I let off the gas just in case...

    Yup, woman in a Toyota SUV pulled right out in front of me, like about 50 feet ahead! Nailed the brakes, realized immediately that impact was imminent, snapped the wheel to the right, squeezed between her and the wall, and then back into the lane to avoid the end of the shoulder.

    You would have thought I was just easing around a pot hole or something. The 2010 Touring SE never so much as wobbled, just made the move like it was on rails. I started breathing normally again in a few minutes, the lady who I passed at maybe 12" clearance at about 60MPH is probably getting her upholstry cleaned.

    But friends, if you ever thought that electronic stability control was a gimmick, just hope you never have to put it to the test. But if you do, it is pretty cool. :surprise:
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    Glad you are OK Jim. I'd have a second one of these in my driveway if the driver's side legroom was a bit more generous. The car is easily better than my '09 Vibe. Other than the legroom, my only other complaint is the position of the oil filter. I actually wedge one of those flimsy plastic paint pan inserts around the oil filter so when I take it off, I can control the path of the falling oil into my waiting bucket. Works great, but would have been nicer if they centered the oil filter and made it a bit more accessible. Driving is getting to be very, very, dangerous now, which is why I chose the white ET and will get only white cars from now on to maximize visibility to others.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Not to sound smart alecky, but are you removing the gravel deflector to get the oil filter off? I get very little spillage changing the filter, though some does drip on the subframe.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    edited October 2010
    No I have not removed it so far. I see that there are screws, but it looks like a bit of work to take off each time, no? I'll look closer when the car comes home today, but when I examined that area before, it did not look like a fun piece to remove each time. Perhaps you can teach this old dog a new trick.
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