Hyundai Elantra Touring 2009 -

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Comments

  • polyplypolyply Member Posts: 4
    I should add too - When I shift gears, even if I'm conscious of getting my foot off the gas before I get the other on the clutch, the rpms fall really slowly, and will even blip up a bit first.

    I don't know if its related.....
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Mine is just the opposite. The first 20% of pedal movement is dead, followed by a minimum RPM of 2200. It is going to the shop for this issue in the next day or so. Makes driving a stick in traffic an interesting, jerky proposition.

    The 80MPH speed limit in Texas is restricted to a section of I10 out west of San Antonio. Very appropriate as there is NOTHING out there. But they also have a zero tolerance beyond that, and the slower limit at night is real. Lot's of critters on the road out there at night. :surprise:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited May 2010
    So the dealer took a look at the flat spot in the throttle. That is, no throttle below 2000-2200 rpm. Very repeatable, and they checked several others on the lot. Guess what? The automatics didn't do it, but all of the manuals do. So, just so happened the factory service rep was in the area, and they called him in. No codes, no nothing. Computers all show systems are performing "as designed". To which I told the factory guy to call up the engineers and find out what is wrong with the software, because the computer is not reacting to the throttle position sensor in the first 15% of travel. When he tried to argue, I just asked why the autos don't do it. This is repeatable everytime, and you can see it happen when sitting dead still or moving, just by trying to get the engine to run at any speed between idle and 2000-2200 rpm. An automatic will do it (in park or neutral) but none of the manuals on the lot would.

    Considering it is the same engine with the manual or the auto, and the only difference is in the ECM software, someone at Hyundai should be able to figure this out. For now, they will only say that it isn't right, but there is nothing to fix unless the factory comes up with a software fix.

    Anybody out there with the 2.0L and 5spd, why don't you try this and see what happens? With the engine at normal operating temp, in neutral (or with the clutch in) see if you can slowly accelerate the engine from idle up to 2000rpm. Then rev the engine to 2500rpm and try to bring it slowly down to idle. I tried it in an auto and it will do it. But everytime it was tried in a manual, no throttle below 2K, and if you try to bring it from 2500 down slowly, just above 2K it will just drop to idle.

    Be interesting to see if anyone else sees this.

    Sigh. :sick:
  • penguinheadpenguinhead Member Posts: 7
    What are the differences between the two models ?

    What do you actually get for the increase in price ?

    What's the average increase from the GLS to the SE ?

    Opinion - is it worth it ?

    Thank You !!!

    --- Penguinhead
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    A visit to HyundaiUsa.com will help answer those questions accurately. :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Quick answer, the SE is the sports model. Stiffer, sportier handling, alloys and low profile tires. More standard features. You can also use Edmunds to compare the two trim levels and see what is standard on each.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    Uh, I don't think there is any different steering or handling components. The SE simply comes with some additional bells and whistles, but the body, engine, and basic body/mechanical attributes are all the same. The SE is a stiffer ride due to the 17 inch alloy tires (vice 15 on the GLS with steel). The combo of the steel and smaller footprint make for a smoother ride. So, if you don't need a leather wrapped steering wheel, sunroof, alloy wheels, larger/more expensive tires, get the GLS with Preferred Package #2; its a much better deal.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    They both have the same stabilizer bars, but the SE uses a faster ratio steering rack and stiffer spring rates.

    You are very correct in you statement that the GLS with pkg 2 is a good deal. I drove both when I was shopping and preferred the handling character of the SE. Then again, I have always been a bit of a sports car nut. Also, I was shopping for a 5spd, and the SE uses a short throw shifter. Funny that Hyundai was paying attention and found that one of the most popular modifications to the earlier GT sedan was the swap of the stock shifter for the B&M short throw shifter. So it is now standard in the SE.

    The other common mod on the previous generation Elantra was to change out the rear stabilizer with the rear bar from the Tiburon GT. Bolted right up and gave the car a slight oversteer character. Actually, more like a go-kart without affecting the ride harshness.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    Wow, I feel ripped off again. Not only did I not get the P-bass on my radio and was stuck with an ashtray and cig lighter I did not want, I now find out that there ARE upgraded steering components on the SE. This is the first time I have ever heard this. In all my research, I have seen it mentioned anywhere. That's it, I'm getting my money back :D
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Hey, I got the asht, er, coin tray too! I am thinking about getting one of the 12v power jacks and replacing the cig lighter. Although anyone who knows me wouldn't dare to light up in one of my cars.

    I really had to dig to find out about the steering ratio. It isn't a lot different, but some. But you better really like the ride if you are going to go with an SE, because it is night and day different from the GLS.

    Understand that my most fun toy ever was an unsprung racing go-kart that sat about .75" off the ground. Whoo Hooo!
  • tifightertifighter WAMember Posts: 2,831
    I've been looking into this car, and have read a lot of reviews about it. This is the first mention I've heard of a different steering rack and spring rates for the ET SE. Where did you track down the info? I'd like to read more about it...

    18 Tesla X Performance / 21 Tesla Y LR / 11 BMW Z4 6MT

  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    edited May 2010
    The steering is a bit numb on the GLS as reported by auto magazines. But that is not all bad. Although the steering is speed sensitive, I cannot tell the difference from the parking lot to the highway. The steering remains "stiff" compared to the Toyota steering on my Vibe. Although I like the Vibe's steering better than the ET, you don't have to worry about drifting out of your lane with the ET. Again, if the ET had two more inches of travel in the driver's seat, I'd be dumping my Vibe today for another ET. It is a super car. Go Hyundai, go!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Really got to dig to find it. If you can find a credit union online that subscribes to Webcarbook (and you won't need to be a member to use it) they have a typical "build what you want" utility that also gives a ton of detail on the specs of the cars. That is one place where you will see the steering ratio difference. The springs are even trickier. Hyundai part book. You can't just look up the springs in an aftermarket catalog because they do not go that specific. Just like looking up shocks for a car with and without a sports suspension, many times aftermarket will only show one application.

    Try a seat of the pants comparison. On a smooth, wavy roadway you can really feel it. The vehicle adapts more quickly to the irregularities.

    As I said earlier, if you like really tight responsive handling more that softer ride, go with the SE. If you prefer the smoother ride, the GLS.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    edited May 2010
    I'm amazed that I have had to exhaust so much energy to find the correct oil filter wrench cup for the 2010 ET OEM oil filter. My dealer won't provide me the information, and when I take an ET oil filter to different parts stores, none carry the right one. Anyone have advice on how to find the correct size wrench cup?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    It is an oddball. I gave up and started using the metal strap style. Works very well, and there is pleny of room to use it.

    I have three different cup style sockets, and you are right, none of them fit.
  • crowheartcrowheart Member Posts: 36
    I recently purchased a 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring GLS with the popular pkg. I was wondering if anyone has taken these cars on back roads (non-pavement) gravel or dirt ,and how does the car hold up on these kinds of roads? I have the 15 inch tires as well. Also I was wondering about the mud flaps, are they easy to install? Does anyone know what the dealership charges to install the mud flaps?
    Any help with these questions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks...
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    The GLS shouldn't be too rough with the larger tire/wheel ratio. Like many things, this is open to personal definition of "rough road" and "acceptable noise and vibration". The vehicles are well put together, so I wouldn't expect them to do any worse than others.

    As I recall, the holes are already there to attach the mudflaps, but in all honesty I would need to confirm that when I leave work. If you buy the mudflaps through the dealer you bought the car from, you might be able to get a "good customer" deal on the install.
  • misterbillmisterbill Member Posts: 60
    >

    So I am now about a week and a half past 4 months and it's still working. Every day I turn it on expecting it not to work and it keeps working. Not that I am complaining, of course.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    oh it will stop. both XM and OnStar run for a few weeks past their end point and then stop.
  • maxx4memaxx4me Member Posts: 1,340
    oh it will stop. both XM and OnStar run for a few weeks past their end point and then stop.
  • eba55eba55 Member Posts: 20
    thanks for the info about pushing the arrow on the steering wheel to scan. If you hold the "mode" button down it turns the radio off, just as good as a mute button. :)
  • polyplypolyply Member Posts: 4
    Well, I stopped by the dealer to see what they might say and got a bit of a run-around; wanted me to determine [i]exactly[i] when it pings and then try using high octane fuel. After that he would make an appointment.

    So...

    93 octane from BP seems to have eliminated the knocking, not that it makes me feel any better. I've got a better idea as to when it knocks, though its not a very specific behavior. Accelerating with the rpms around 1750 will do it though I swear I hear it much higher than that too.

    I'll check back after I go to the dealer again...
  • crowheartcrowheart Member Posts: 36
    edited June 2010
    I discovered that the bottom of my center divider has a false bottom (where you plug in iPod) . There is only a sheet of some flimsy material that covers the bottom of the divider. This cover will not prevent items from falling into the bottomless hole. Is this normal? Or did someone on the assembly line fail to add a solid bottom part here? Any knowledge about this would be highly appreciated.

    Thanks...
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Mine has a panel there, but the bottles of juice I carry in there don't seem to cause a problem. It may be that is the access to the rear console mounting bracket?
  • crowheartcrowheart Member Posts: 36
    I believe you are right. The only reason I noticed it was the panel for some reason had moved and I had to put it back in place. Since I have put it back it seems like it will hold up.
  • strei007strei007 Member Posts: 16
    Update. Got 3000 miles now. The rough ride is better. The shocks and springs must have broken in alittle. I'm getting use to it. My wife isn't getting car sick either. I'm very happy with everything now. I watch my gas mileage very closely. I just got 38mpg this tank. The driving is back and forth to work on freeway and running errends but I like quick starts. Not too shabby for an EPA rating of only 31 HWY. I used it to tow my 700 lbs boat. It worked great. Hardly knew I was towing. Gas mileage with tail wind was 28 mgp and only 20 mpg with strong head wind and AC on.
    A few tips
    I added valve stem extenders on tires for $1.
    I'm using the lid of the CD storage compartment (just in front of shifter) to mount my Garmin GPS. Work perfect there. I can release the suction mount and throw the whole works into that compartment and shut the lid. No one is the wiser.
  • crowheartcrowheart Member Posts: 36
    I have been getting really good city MPG(28) with the Touring so far, I drive very sensibly though.
    You know what? Funny you should mention valve stem extenders, I checked the air on my tires today and had a hard time getting an accurate read because of the way the stems are positioned with the wheel cover.
    I think I will look into getting valve stem extenders as well. I have never heard of them before, but this car really needs them. Send a suggestion to Hyundai.
  • richardmnixonrichardmnixon Member Posts: 3
    I see a lot of people mentioning the GLS with the preferred package #2, can someone explain that? I've only seen the "popular package" and only on the AT, is there anything I can add to the manual?

    Thanks,
    Tim
  • crowheartcrowheart Member Posts: 36
    As far as I know there isn't any options available with the Base GLS Manual Touring.
    I have the GLS Auto with the Popular Pkg 2 which adds a lot of nice extras, it is well worth it IMO. The Popular Pkg 2 adds roof side rails, fog lights, telescopic steering wheel w/audio controls, trip computer, illuminated ignition, premium cloth interior w/cloth door trim, driver seat height & lumbar adjustment, sliding sun visors w/dual illuminated vanity mirrors, front setback pockets, cooled glove box, and retractable cargo cover .
    The Base GLS Manual doesn't have cruise control either as far as I know. I would opt for the Auto with the extras. Good Luck...
  • goosey1goosey1 Member Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    I have a 2010 ET with auto. I noticed that when braking, I feel the transmission gearing down. I have never felt this in any other car. It's almost like gearing down in a manual. Is this normal for a Hyundai automatic? It's a weird sensation when braking.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Does it do it noticeably on hills or grades? If so, its likely something in the transmission computer designed to aid braking.

    I can't say for sure about the Elantra Touring, but Hondas have been doing this since the mid-90s, sometimes coming down into third gear as high as 50 MPH. Noticeable but helpful in preventing brake-riding/warping.
  • goosey1goosey1 Member Posts: 2
    I notice it everytime I brake. Even when it's a flat surface. I assume it's just the way it's programmed. Odd feeling though when your coming to a stop and kicks down a gear. You have to adjust the force you put on the brake.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    If it is noticeable, that is indeed a bit odd. I didn't notice it on the ET I drove, but was rather displeased with other aspects of it so I wasn't paying too much attention to downshifting. The 5-speed is so much more peppy. :)
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    Bought it new a little over a month ago...and it pulls( not really a drift) to the right, doesnt matter if its a city street or highway. On a road that has a rut that the left wheel can track with, or a crown to the left, It drives reasonably straight in those instances. Otherwise, it requires waaaaay too much driver input to keep it in the lane of travel. It literally cant be driven straight, as any attempt to offset the right pull will result in the vehicle going left. This is on dry pavement, too. My area gets its fair share of ice...so that compounds the already present safety issue.

    They aligned the toe( apparently of the three alignment parameters this is the only one thats serviceable), but to no avail. The service tech suggested it was torque pull( which in itself is ridiculous as I have another FWD car that drives straight)...but it still pulls under no acceleration. I bring it back to the dealer next week and will be meeting with a district rep. I posted this in another forum, but thought Id share this. Anyone else here have the same issue? Thanks. I will post an update.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    My 2010 is doing the same thing. Your Tech was incorrect, toe, caster, and camber are all three adjustable, and toe generally does not cause the pulling. My dealer is one of the top rated in North America, and has a tech that is really sharp. I will let you know what they do for mine.

    As a side note, try swapping your front tires right to left. Radials can do some strange things with FWD when they develop some wear. Wouldn't be the first time a "pull" was fixed with a tire rotation.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    So, all 3 components are adjustable on the 09s, too? They did swap the L/R tires and it made no difference. Oh, I know the toe adjustment doesnt affect pull, but oddly enough the car pulls a little worse after he toe was adjusted back to spec. Are you experiencing the same things I described in my first post? Literally, I cant get the car to go straight....so I let the car drift, adjust, drift, adjust. Its crazy.
  • gwillygwilly Member Posts: 51
    In reference to the dead throttle area, I've got 700 miles on my SE manual (which btw has been great) and tested the throttle and it definitely has this dead area below 2200 rpms. Is this really a concern? I haven't noticed a problem, but once you know, is this a psychological problem?

    Starting a car in first gear with a clutch obviously needs a minimum amount of rpm to get it going, however if it becomes an issue I'm sure I will press hyundai about it. So far on my 2007 awd santa fe, Hyundai has been very responsive to issues: (towing electrical connector, broken sun-visor and bad alternator).

    Mileage has been 28, 31 mpg combined on first 2 tanks of gas, driving conservatively.

    Date code on car April 03, 2010.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    For the most part, the throttle is not an issue. But when in slow, <20mph, traffic, the car lurches because you cannot run it along at 2000RPM. Lurch, throttle, lurch, off throttle. Try driving like that for 20 minutes or so and you will see what I mean!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    I tried to copy in the alignment specs from Hyundai Service, but it doesn't translate to these forums too well.

    So, here is a tip for all you Touring owners:

    www.hmaservice.com

    Set up your account and you will have access to just about everything you ever wanted to know about a Hyundai. These are the only guys I know that provide such detailed online data for their vehicles.

    They used to even have all the parts books online, and you could order parts and have them drop-shipped to the nearest dealer. If you have ever worked your way through a manufacturers parts book you will know why they stopped doing that. It is written almost in a foreign language.

    Have fun with the website. It is a good one. And if you cannot see the pictures, do what their instructions say regarding downloading an adobe (i think) package. It works!

    Jim
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Okay, I took the front tires and crossed them to the rear, and took the rear tires and crossed them to the front.

    No more pull. That's the good news. I swapped the fronts to the back, crossing them, first. took the rears straight forward. Made no difference. Then crossed the fronts left/right, and no more pull. I will keep an eye on the front tires to see if some anomaly shows up.
  • Sandman6472Sandman6472 Coral Springs, FLMember Posts: 5,784
    Glad the problem is fixed. Maybe this is just the solution for the problem. The X pattern is probably the way to go. Swap the left front to the right rear and the front right to the left rear. Then bring the rear tires up to the front on the same side. You've just tweaked it a bit. Had a radial pull on the Mazda last month and they swapped the tires this way...pull gone.

    The Sandman :sick: :shades:

    2015 Audi A3 (wife) / 2015 Golf TSI (me) / 2019 Chevrolet Cruze Premier RS (daughter #1) / 2020 Hyundai Accent SE (daughter #2)

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    This sort of problem has been around for years with radials. I have seen it on standard profile and low profile both. Just made a 160 mile drive on mine and except for the friggin 20mph cross winds it did quite well!
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    jlf-

    Great to hear. So, the pull is completely gone?

    As for my car, Im not sure they did that kind of a tire rotation, but it wouldnt hurt for sure for them to do that. As for alignment, I dont know if they did a 4 wheel or not. The service ticket is still open because of a few other jobs that need to be completed.

    Which model do you have? Mines the 09...17 inch rims with Kumhos.

    BTW- Theres nothing Ive found that suggests the caster and camber are adjustable. Did your tech tell you this?

    Thanks.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    edited July 2010
    Mine is pull free, '10 SE w/ 17" Kumho.

    I base the adjustable off the specs giving a range of adjustment. That, and I have never seen a McPherson strut suspension that was not adjustable. The only thing I can think of is that some MP systems are not easily CASTER adjustable, but camber is pretty straightforward. Next time I go out I will look under the car and see if the adjustments are where they usually are.

    I just checked on the TSB's that were released for 2010. There is one for all alignment specifications for all Hyundai. The Touring is listed with the ranges to adjust to. There is also a troubleshooting guide that discusses pull and drift issues and what to adjust in the alignment, so even though the detail of exactly what moves, it sure looks like the Touring is adjustable.

    Trivia of the day: The Pontiac Fiero was fully adjustable, toe, caster, camber, on each of it's four wheels. If you could find an alignment shop that knew what they were doing, you could throw the factory settings out the window and make those things handle like a go-kart!

    Jim
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Return trip from Houston to north of Austin, Texas:

    Average speed: 69.4
    Average MPG: 30.5

    Drove the car to work today, and checked it after I got home.

    Average speed: 65.1
    Average MPG: 31.6

    Yeah, I think I will keep it!
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    Jim,

    I swung by the dealer yesterday to tell them Ill need a car for when I bring it in tomorrow. While I was there It was suggested to me their alignment machine may not be operating properly. Apparently theyve been working on a Genesis that wont track straight as well Ever hear of a problem with the machine?

    They use a Hunter machine, btw.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Well, they are supposed to be calibrated regularly, just like any other calibration tool. Hunter is a good machine, but needs maintenance just like the vehicles it is used on.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    edited July 2010
    I was at the dealer today, and the hyundai engineering rep was there. First thing they did was put the car on the rack to check alignement specs. All specs were within tolerance, but they went ahead and "zeroed" them out anyways. Took the car for a ride with the Svc manager, the pull itself wasnt as bad, however that doesnt change the dynamic in play- that the fighting the wheel to keep the car going straight is still there. So, we get another car to try- 2010 GLS. Road manners were much improved. In this case you could adjust the wheel to offset road crown, with minimal adjustments thereafter were required to keep straight.

    IOW it felt normal, lol. Now, theyre going to bring in someone else. Sigh...

    At least I KNOW now there is a problem with my car.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Member Posts: 2,242
    Let us know when they get around to changing out the tires. I have seen perfectly normal looking tires that you couldn't make go in a straight line. Eventually, the issue will show itself (typically a belt issue), but until the wear pattern goes odd, or lumps, or vibrations, the tire will look perfectly normal.

    Trick will be figuring out which one.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Just got back from an interstate trip and here are some random comments:
    -very comfortable for long distances. The only change I'd like is a longer bottom cushion.
    -the illumination of the information/radio screen is obnoxiously bright! There should be some setting other than off.
    -while standard features are plentiful, the curious omissions (some mentioned by others) are: no mute for radio, no intermittent setting for the rear wiper, a 5th fan speed (this is like the auto when it comes to the difference between 3 & 4), and no fender or mirror mounted turn signal.
    The trip computer is rather optimistic in mileage calculation (off by 3mpg on initial leg of my trip). Other than that, it was very comfortable, relatively quiet (the A-pillar is a bit noisy above 70 mph), and I managed 31mpg of mostly high desert/high temperature cruising. My previous Hyundai GT had a marked improvement in mpg after 3k miles which seems to be the norm with this brand.
    The suspension on my SE is very bouncy over LA freeways but otherwise fine. The damping is very stiff for a family hauler but it corners great! I wanted the 5-speed but ended up with the auto. The only time it is annoying is going up steep grades at high speed. While I'm sure the 5-spd is more entertaining, the auto is not the end of the world. It's more than fine in commuting situations and heavy traffic. I'm very happy with my car!
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