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The Volkswagen Golf IV



  • jmorriss13jmorriss13 Posts: 12
    Perhaps not coincidentally, I am also in Boston. I have seen a few silvers around. The main thing is that the hot VW's are the Beetles and Jettas.
    But these guys have hundreds of cars lined up at the docks. The dealer I have been working with offered me $50 over invoice on most any Golf, including the one that I specifically requested down to the last detail. He ordered it from the port, and I have put no money down. I called him today and asked how much if I change my mind and buy the silver 5-spd turbo he just got in, and he said $500 over invoice because they are hot(turbo, not silver.) So next week, I can go down there, drive them both, and take the one I want.

    The deal you got isn't bad, so don't despair. But I guarantee they will find you the car.

    One last thought: Got to the VW site and look up dealers. You can view dealer inventories online. In general, this system is very accurate. I have called three dealers about inventory I saw on the web, and they were amazed that I knew they had it.
    (you know, "wait, I'll have to check.........oh, yeah, I just got one in....")

    Also, check out buyer's clubs like For very cheap money($15/yr) you get excellent no haggle pricing, like for example, $50 over invoice.
  • jss4jss4 Posts: 17
    Personally, I think you're getting a pretty good deal. You did say it's fully loaded and by that you mean: Lux and cold weather pkgs, automatic, and monsoon sound? Heck,'s price is much higher than the $18,500 they're quoting you.
    I,too, am sure they'll find you your car pretty quickly. Esp, since Boston is probably a port of entry for the cars. And yes, thank you, I love the Indigo Blue w/grey interior. I could have had the Blue with beige interior, but I really liked the looks of the grey better. I'm also hoping the grey won't show the dirt and dog fur as much as I knew the beige would.
    And no, : ) I luckily do not need the cold weather package here in the Bay Area. That's 1 reason why I moved out here from Ohio 9 years ago!
  • aqueenaqueen Posts: 15
    jmorriss13, yes, when I said fully loaded, i mean luxury + monsoon + cold weather :-)

    I was informed by the dealer that they will charge me $199.5 as documentation fee...I remember someone here said it only costs him around $50 for documentation...I am not sure if it differs from state to state, i am in Boston area...

    The dealer tell me that I will need to pay $199.5 which includes title, a tank of fuel, and another $80 for registration stuff. Insurance and tax are not included. According to him, after paying $199.5 + $80, I am all set with all paperwork and all i need to do is to drive the car home and enjoy it.

    What do you guys think?

  • aqueenaqueen Posts: 15
    I checked both and I was surprised to see that the price quoted for me is even higher than MSRP!! CarsDirect is much more reasonable, $18690 for a fully loaded GLS 2.0...just curious how could this happen?
  • jmorrissjmorriss Posts: 10
    Without getting too longwinded, you are assuming that because you are shopping online, you are getting the best price possible. Not so. You are simply getting a 'no-haggle' price. The basis for this is what the dealer is willing to sell the car for without negotiation. It is usually 2-3% over invoice, depending on the car's popularity. Most of the dealer's I have spoken to can't give the Golfs away.

    Many people naively think that the quote they get online is some wonderful insider's price that only they get because they are part of some elite computer-savvy group. But car dealers are still car dealers.

    Consumer's Digest did a study that showed that people who bought cars online got a better deal than many people who walked into dealerships, but paid more than people who went into delerships and haggled. By about 3%.

    Your best bet is still to arm yourself with all of the info you can and then go in swinging (metaphorically, of course).

    By the way, a $199.50 documentation fee is hogwash. And as for charging you to clean your car before giving it to you, well, why don't you tell the dealer that they need to pay you a $1,000 check-signing fee before you can hand over the down payment?

    Don't let your enthusiasm for your first new car be taken advantage of. Be careful out there.
  • aqueenaqueen Posts: 15
    thanks seems that I am always a bit late to know what I should know...if i could do more research...I am afraid the $199.5 documentation fee is not negotiable since it is PRINTED on the customer invoice form. I was arguing the fee for model option with the dealer since he put the "port fee, floor planning..." a total or $170 in the dealer invoice which makes the invoice look higher. I told him that he is not supposed to pass this cost to the customers. I used this as a negotiation tool to make him agree with $18500.

    Today they called me that they should be able to get me the silver GLS late next week...just can't wait to drive it.

    What am I supposed to check with the car on the day I pick it up?

    Have a good weekend!
  • jmorrissjmorriss Posts: 10
    The problem with the Documentation Fee being printed on the worksheet is that the dealer has those worksheets printed. This plays directly on a weakness that we humans have: If it is in writing, it must be true. For example:

    I just bought a new Reflex Yellow Beetle for $19,000 out the door.

    Is that statement true? You don't know, so you take my word for it. Sticker on the car is $21,000, and while $19,000 is not unreasonable from my point of view, I doubt that many people will get one at that price.

    Dealers have authority on their side. You have nothing. Nothing. I can walk into a dealer and say, The guy at Happy Face VW quoted me a price of $100 under invoice for any Golf on the lot, and he has just the one I want. But you also have it and you are closer. The dealer will say "bring it in to me in writing." He does this because he knows that no dealer will write a price down and let you walk out with it.

    Have you ever been in negotiations, and asked to think about it? Has the salesman told you to take a copy of the worksheet with you so you can go over the numbers? No. Why? Because if he gives you a quote in writing, you can go to the next guy, who will beat the price by $50-$100, then you could take that worksheet to the next guy, and so on. Eventually, you would either find your best deal, or at least find the lowest price anyone would sell the car for.

    That is not what the dealer is about. Remember a few messages ago, when I told you to watch out for the F&I manager? You weren't listening. The port fee is included in the invoice price. The floor planning fee is also included. Furthermore, VW pays the dealer for prep, initial floorplanning, and holdback. Personally, I would not deal with a salesman who tried to take advantage of me like that, because it is insulting.

    You have spent a great deal of time and effort finding the right car at the right price, only to have the salesman and F&I guy pile fees right back on. Let me ask you this: When all is said and done, are you buying the car for much less than sticker? Include everything except tax and title, which you have to pay to the RMV.

    The guy I am dealing with has told me all fees right up front. He is selling the car at $50 over invoice plus $55 doc fee, which includes running plates, title, etc. He will still make about $600 on the car, not including other kickbaks I am not aware of. And he gets that just for ordering the car from the prot and letting me buy it from him.

    I was looking hard at the Honda Civic EX because it is so much less money than the VW, but I walked out when he quoted me a great price and then started talking about doc fees, prep fees, undercoating packages that I HAVE to buy....

    The name of the game is cutthroat, and there are only three rules:

    1. Just because it's printed doesn't mean its true.

    2. Just because I'm smiling doesn't mean I'm not lying.

    3. The person who leaves money on the table loses.

    Well, there are a whole bunch more, but I've gone on too long.
  • aqueenaqueen Posts: 15
    thank you so much jmorriss...i feel like a fool :-(

    i didn't pay too much attention when you mentioned F&I guys last time because I thought that I didn't need financing from the dealer. I have checked out the fees on RMV webpage and found that

    title: $50
    Registration: $25

    plus a tank of fuel which costs not more that $25. If the dealer can run all these for me, I guess a $50 transaction fee is good enough to pay for their labor. All together the total should not be more than $150 while he is now wanting to charge me for $280 !!!

    I have signed the worksheet that I will pay $18500 for the car. They might not allow me to argue the documentation fee but I WILL try my best to argue with them even though it is a little bit late. Is it possible to argue it with them upon picking up the car? I have already pay $2000 deposit to them , would they have more power then?

    Anyway, I will try. Thanks a lot!!! At least I learn great lessons.

  • jmorriss13jmorriss13 Posts: 12
    Don't despair. You are just learning some valuable lessons that we all learn. I have bought cars before, and worked in sales(not auto sales, so I can sleep at night). Since you signed already, and put down a deposit, there isn't a whole lot you can do. But you should try to negotiate any fees that have not been listed yet. If you have signed the worksheet, listing the price you will pay for the car, that may not mean that you have agreed to pays any other fees.

    But I'm not a lawyer, so I don't know.

    I should have been clear earlier: The F&I guy is the person who closes the sale with you, once you have negotiated a price with the salesman. He, or she, will list(pile on, really) the fees, try to sell you extended warranties, rust protection, etc.

    A good F&I person will double or triple the profits on the deal.

    A final consolation: You're getting a great car. Enjoy it.
  • ibanezibanez Posts: 4
    Hello everyone, I want to buy a new golf gl, but I am not too sure about the quality of the car, I have a honda now, but when I drove the golf I loved it, and I am considering this car (5 spd). I hear people complaining a lot about vw's and others are happy, it kind of get me confused, help me please.
  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Yes, it can be confusing. It really depends on one's own approach. If you want bulletproof, I'd buy a Honda. If you want a car that is fun to drive, buy the VW Golf. VW's quality has been steadily increasing. IMHO, drive them both and buy the one that speaks to your heart.

  • wukwukwukwuk Posts: 17
    I will be buying a new car soon, and have no hesitation about buying a VW. The quality and ride of these cars is excellent. No car manufacturer spits out 100% flawless cars. VW's have a very good reputation as of late for their quality. As for Honda, it's a name you can trust, that's not usually contested. But if I had to choose between Honda and VW for driving pleasure and aesthetics, I'd go with the VW.
  • ibanezibanez Posts: 4
    Thank you for your advises, I think I should test drive it again and see witch one I like.
  • aqueenaqueen Posts: 15
    Hi, thanks for the advices from jmorriss13 and jmorriss and all of you...

    today the dealer called me and said that he was not able to locate the fully loaded silver GLS in the New England at this point (though i really doubted it) but only silver without the cold weather package (i.e. everything but the cold weather package). And he is willing to deduct that amount of money from the price we agreed on previously, if I can accept the sivler with a cold weather package.

    I took this opportunity to argue with him on the $199.5 documentation fee. He at first was very firm on it but then I used the logic and info I learnt from all of you to fight back. He became impatient at the beginning and raised his voice on me when I said that I didn't feel comfortable and fair with the charges. Then he suggested that the fair option would be "don't buy this car". I was quiet for 3 seconds and told him that I will take his "fair option" and shop elsewhere. Then he asked me to hold on and soon came back to me with an offer of lowering the car price for another $100. He said he can't change the documentation fee printed but can substitute it with the discount for the car. Then I said yes.

    I didn't move further to get around $55 documentation fee as jmorriss did for his because I saw that's the best I can do in my situation. Anyway $99.5 is much better than $199.5 and I want to thank all of you for giving me valuable advices these days...

    I will pick up the car next Tuesday...a silver w/o the cold weather package, not perfect but ok...

  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Go aqueen!!!

  • jmorriss13jmorriss13 Posts: 12
    You are becoming wise in the ways of the weasel.

    Good for you!

    And don't worry about the cold weather package.

    Heated windshield wiper nozzles?!? No thanks!
  • ibanezibanez Posts: 4
    I went to a dealer in Oakland CA to see a golf and I couldn't believe the prices, they add a markup!!!!!! a golf gls is around $20k!!!
    That's the price of a Honda accord lx or se, I don't get it, when I saw the invoice price for the gl ( $ 13,903) and the msrp for $14,900 I thought it was a good deal. I don't understand how come the golf compete with a honda civic dx that is $11k, better quality and liability, and they sell a golf for the price of a sedan. I checked the prices of the used golfs on the paper and they lose a lot of value I am really afraid of buying a golf now, I don't know if I should look for something else.
  • anonymousanonymous Posts: 314
    you will find more and more dealers putting a $2k to $3k "market adjustment" on the windshield these days. Everything from a Hyundai Elantra to a Honda S2000 seems to bear this. Sometimes it is market forces (S200, Beetle etc.)

    When I laughed at the $3k markup on a Hyundai Elantra, the salesman told me it was there for their in-house credit dept. People with poor credit get charged a higher price for the vehicle to cover the extra risk. It sounds plausible to me, especially when you consider the Ugly Duckling Corp. business model which charges high prices for old (and often pretty poor) vehicles.

    The conclusion is that the increasingly ubiquitous markup on most vehicles need only worry you if your credit is bad - otherwise just ignore it!
  • jss4jss4 Posts: 17
    I live in the Bay Area as well, and I too was shocked at the mark up. I blame the dot.commers!
    Kidding. But, one dealer flat out told me, "Hey, we have people around here who come in and write checks for these cars and drive them off the lot!"
    Granted there is a lot of new wealth around here, but I think he was being a jerk.
    Anyway, I got mine from Cardinale VW in Salinas. ( ask for Peter Savale. Great deal. No hassle. It's a little far to drive, but well worth it for me. I love my 2000 Golf GLS!
  • judasjudas Posts: 217
    Just to let everyone know, the 'Worksheet' that the guy above is referring to is in absolutely no way a binding contract. Neither is putting a deposit down on a vehicle. The car isn't yours until the title and every other piece of paperwork is done and you're driving down the road in it. And even then theres sometime room to manuever, I took a used 300Z turbo that I bought back because it developed some major electric problems within the first week. Everything was done and signed ad taken care of and I raised so much hell that they actually took the car back and gave me my trade and money back (Although they certainly didn't have to, I'm just good at being a pain in the keister)
    Also, about financing, I wouldn't ever go through a dealership unless a)You're getting one of those 1.9 for 48 months or whatever type deals or b)You dont have good enough credit to get a loan on your own. In most (All?) states that F&I guy can tack up to 3% on to the loan that he's getting you through a bank and they don't even have to tell you about it. The bank just sends the dealership a check for the difference and they made a load of dough off you just because you didn't want to get your own load.
  • tdwltrstdwltrs Posts: 1
    I'm shopping for a 2000 Golf GL 2.0 liter 2 door. I test drove a 4-door GL last weekend and was mildly impressed. To other Golf drivers out there, please tell me if the Golf is a car worth buying or a car to avoid. Right now I'm driving an 88 Nissan Sentra with 164,000 miles and my hope is to get something just as durable. Also, are parts expensive and/or hard to get? I'm shopping the Golf against the 2000 Nissan Sentra which I know has affordable parts. Tell me the good, the bad, and the ugly. Also, does anybody know of a website that has thorough statistics on stolen car rankings? I live in Miami, FL, so obviously keeping the criminals away is a big consideration. I'm looking for a detailed list, not just the usual "top 5" or "top 10" "most stolen cars" that are frequently reported in the news. Thanks.
  • dparesdpares Posts: 29
    trying to decide between a Honda Civic EX and a Golf... was looking at a GL but started thinking about a GTI GLS..same engine but some power features..

    I drove the Honda and it was real nice .. smooth ... quality feel .. but small for what I need.. Then just drove the Golf GLS 4 door..(all the dealer had ) and wasn't impressed...suspension seemed soft and lacking was an auto and had nice acceleration at low speed but not at hight speed.. breaks seems soft also... just wasnt the feel i remember from my 1985 Jetta!!

    Can anyone out there who owns one lend an opinion... have read some on here and some love them and some hate them..

  • ibanezibanez Posts: 4
    Thank you for your help jss4, how is your car so far?
  • jmorrissjmorriss Posts: 10
    That's a tough one. The Honda is a great car. Reliable, inexpensive, lots of performance tweaks available. The problem is that it is not outstanding. It is good in every way, yet bland as well. The Golf GLS has exactly the same suspension as the GL. The GTI has bigger anto-roll bars, and that's it. Slightly stiffer handling, but not by much.

    I just sold my 1990 Golf GL, and got into the 2000 Golf GLS. The new Golf handles much better than the old one, but is so much smoother that you don't feel like it.

    I don't recommend the automatic on any VW. The engines are peppy little things, but the auto kills the pep.

    Finally, to paraphrase my better half: They are both great cars. Buy the one you like the best, and enjoy it. She likes to keep it simple.

    Good Luck!
  • Last year I replaced a 1986 Golf with a 1999
    New Golf. The new one is slightly bigger,
    slightly slower, somewhat quieter inside. It's
    supposed to have more horsepower, but they've
    done it by running the same engine faster which
    puts a whiney note in what sound does get in.

    The 1999 does seem to be more vague in steering
    on the road. It seems to have been americanized
    in several ways, which is not a compliment to
    american tastes.

    That said, I'm keeping the new Golf. This is the
    third one since 1975. The 1986 was a big jump
    over the 1975 model. I'm worried that the 1999
    model is what it is because only us old farts are
    still buying the Golf. Oh well, I'll check back
    in another 15 years.

    A major reason I bought the 3rd Golf was Klaus,
    the service manager. I like Golfs, but I'd
    buy something else if this dealer lost Klaus.
  • ib515ib515 Posts: 2
    All VeeDubs we as a family have owned, which includes our new beetle, have a feature that no Japanese manufacturer can provide and thats personality! Call it Fahrvegnuggen or whatever you like, but all our VeeDubs have served us well,with a feeling that no Japanese car can give!!!
  • jmorrissjmorriss Posts: 10
    I have to agree with the two posters above. As VW's have gained in popularity, so has the need/inclination to provide the American market with the features they want. My dealer was telling me that the reason there are all kinds of discounts/interest rate incentives on the Passats and Jettas right now is that the dealers can't unload the 5-speeds. 10 years ago people wouldn't be caught dead driving an automatic VW. Now, something like 80-90% of the Jettas sold are automatics.

    I see what Chris was talking about too. The performance does feel more vague, but I think it is a difference in feel, moreso than a difference in actual performance(I guess that is a personal impression thing.)

    Finally, yup, the VW's got personality. I've had 3 VW's now, and they are the only 'normal' cars that people will walk up to you and start talking about.( As opposed to, "I just love your Dodge Neon. The headlights are just so...round!" )
  • jss4jss4 Posts: 17
    Ibanez: I've had the Golf for two weeks now, just about got the 1,000k break-in miles on it, and I still love the car. Not a single complaint. I even like the cupholders which seem to be a major problem for many people. It's a great ride.
  • jphyenajphyena Posts: 1
    I bought a 99 Civic EX (11/99) and it's a decent ride. For the money you can't beat it.

    However, the car has no feel. I feel like I'm just floating along. The interior is plain-jane. I had a '85 Golf before and I'm longing to get another one and have just started looking.

    My advice is if you enjoy driving and want to feel the road definitely go with a Golf. If you're just looking for point A to B transportation you can't beat the cost of the Civic.
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    Finally, I traded-in my Civic LX and got myself a Golf 1.8T GLS. The Golf is such a nice car to drive, powerful and all, and yes, it has more personality than the Civic, and you do feel a lot safer behind the wheel due to the more sturdy build. I have yet to test it in the snow to see if it is just an illusion. I am very happy so far (it has only been a week since I got my new baby), apart from the rather hard to get used to cup-holder, which blocks all the buttons on the radio and CD player. I tried fitting some Japanese after-market cup-holder onto the air-vent (apparently they fit all Civics) but that doesn't seem to work. Now I have to put my coffee cup in the passenger cup-holder so that I can have access to the radio.

    Question: I am financing part of this car and wonder if the Golf would last me more than 4 years?? I have heard horror stories about VW that it would self-destruct the moment the warrenty expires. (ok, I have no one to blame since I knew this before I sign my life away, but still...) Is an extended bumper-to-bumper worth the money?? (about CAD$800 for that extra year). Can someone offer me some peace of mind that I have indeed made the right purchase, by letting go of the Honda??

    Plus, how come the Golf does not have any park lights?? Does anyone know the voltage output of the front speakers? No matter how I adjust the "monsoon" system, they just don't seem to match up with the Sony speakers that I used to put in my Civic (and now collecting dust because I am not sure if they would fit the Golf)

  • jmorrissjmorriss Posts: 10

    I just sold my 1990 Golf with 160,000 miles on it, and bought a 2000 Golf. My prior vehicle was a 1987 Escort that basically refused to operate after 60,000 miles. Prior to that I had a 1972 Westfalia with 210,000 miles on it. I blew the clutch one day and drove 50 miles back to civilization with no clutch discs. Neither the pressure plate nor the flywheel needed replacement. I sold it 6 years ago and still see it sometimes. (I miss it!)

    The concerns you have are noted and valid.
    Many people have concerns about VW reliability. But that is because, (IMHO) VW can take a lot of abuse, and last a REALLY long time, IF you maintain them properly. Most of the people I know who drive like grandma have never had problems with their VW's. Many of the people I know who beat the heck out of their cars have complained when they had to replace a part or two.

    My fiance has a 2000 New Beetle she loves, and has had no trouble in the 6 months she has owned it.

    I would suggest that you wait until the factory warranty is about to run out, then, if you have had trouble with the car, you should buy the extended warranty. See, the thing with extended warranties is that they don't cover the things that usually break, like your clutch. Many people with the turbos and VR6 complain about smoking the clutch. Well, duh! That's what happens when you buy the hotrod. You have to maintain it. (drag racing at every light tends to burn clutches.)

    Finally, I'm jealous. I just bought a 2000 Golf GLS, and so far I like it a lot. I would have liked the turbo, but only found out about it after ordering the 2.0, and didn't want to screw over the salesman who ordered me the exact car I wanted. As my fiancee says, if I had gotten the turbo, I would be in trouble. Lots of trouble.

    Good luck with the car. If you take car of it, you'll have it for a really long time.
  • jss4jss4 Posts: 17
    I have to agree w/jmorris. I've owned a 73 Beetle, an '80 Rabbit, and an '86 Golf. All trouble free and I made sure I religiously did the proper maintenance. The only problems (besides the usual like tires and a muffler) the Rabbit needed a new fuse box, the Golf a new shock, but that's it. I had an Accord and I found it not only un-fun to drive, but I was constantly replacing parts. Sure, there are little oddities with VW, ergonomic and otherwise, but IMO, a small price to pay for such a fun, reliable car.
    jmorris: I test drove the 2.0L and the Turbo back to back. I opted for the 2.0L mainly because I found it perfect for the driving I do, but I knew that if I got a Turbo, I'd be in lots of trouble with the law!
  • sivtecsivtec Posts: 8

    I took my 2 week old 2000 GTI VR6 in for an alignment to the VW dealer where I purchased the car. When I came home, there were numerous scratches and nicks on all four wheels. Immediately, I took it to the dealership, and showed the damage to the service advisor. He said to bring it back for the mechanic and service manager to have a look since they weren't there at the time. I told the advisor that the damage was from the alignment clamps that attach to the wheels. The advisor said, they would have to match the areas of damage with the alignment clamps. Then the dealership will decide what is appropriate, he said.

    Please help! What will the dealer most likely do to get out of this one? I am going to ask the dealership to do whatever it takes to get the wheels the way it was prior to the alignment clamp damage. The car is only 2 weeks new!

    VTECSI (I sold my civic si and bought the VR6!)
  • aqueenaqueen Posts: 15
    Hi everyone,

    finally, the silver GLS arrived. I drove 40 miles to pick up the car last thursday. For the past few days, I've been driving it around the city and can't stop loving it more and more. Absolutely no complaints...the driver can feel the road (i guess that's why they said "drivers wanted") and my friends started telling me that the interior room is not as small as they thought and indeed it is quite comfortable for 4 people.

    I am doing moving these days and the trunk is just wonderful... especially when I saw people struggle to try to fit a 20 in. TV into a Corolla :-)

    I am not sure if it is a feature of German cars, I found that the angle it needs when making a turn is very small, compared to the so-called luxury Japanese car I had... this makes a lot of fun when I do turns and parkings

  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    Does anyone know how to pop open the front panel speakers covers?? Do I run a screw-driver between the gap, or is it a twist and turn? I tried popping it out by running a plastic spoon (ok, I don't want any scratches on the door panel)hoping that the cover will go loose but it doesn't.

    Does anyone have any experience installing the front speakers on the GLS? I need some insight here.


  • jss4jss4 Posts: 17
    Congratulations on your GLS! Even after a month, I find myself coming up with excuses to go out and drive mine.
  • just1lyzzjust1lyzz Posts: 1
    Hi everyone! I need some help. I just bought a used 96 golf gl yesterday. Today the check engine light came on. I'm a little worried. I bought the car from a dealership with a very extensive system for making the cars ready to sell. I also purchased a four year bumper to bumper extended warranty. This is my first car and I love it. I'm just a little paranoid about the engine light. Is this something I should be worried about? The car only has 37,00 miles and is in great condition. Please help!
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Don't worry!! You have a warranty right? So if something is wrong, then they will fix it for nothing. The check engine light more than likely means something wrong with the engine computer. Also, it could mean you don't have the fuel cap on tight. Always make sure it "clicks" two or three times when putting it on after adding gas. Also, DON'T WORRY!!! :)
  • sivtecsivtec Posts: 8

    Any recommendations on how I can take care of my 2000 GTI's leather interior?

  • hi all,

    this is my first time on this website and i must say, i'm very impressed by the quality of the posts. you've said some really helpful stuff!

    anyway, i'm looking to buy a new Golf GLS. I'm kind of wavering between the 2.0 and the 1.8T right now. does anyone know if there's a dramatic difference in the cost of insuring one vs. the other? unfortunately (for insurance purposes)i'm young and male, but my driving recod is clean.

    also, does VW have any discounts for grad students that anyone know's about?


    med boy
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    Before I got the 1.8T, I asked my insurance agent if it would cost me an arm and a leg. Basically, the "normal Golf" and the 1.8T cost more or less the same, this being it is a 4-dr car (and that makes a big difference). That being said, I live in Canada and don't know if it is the same in the States. My insurance now is the same rate I paid for my brand new Civic 3 years ago (and the rate came down about $200 in 3 years). I am a female with a clean record, but then I think the difference with a male equivalent would not be too big?
  • l791515l791515 Posts: 2
    I bought my 2k Golf gls in NJ, USA a few weeks ago. To my surprise, there was no difference for Golf 2.0 or 1.8T, even GTI 1.8T. There was, however, huge difference between different insurance companies. In my case, from $1800 to $3400. I am a single male young driver.

    Not sure about the discounts stuff, but there should be a discount for anti-theft system and ABS.

    I test droved both 1.8T and 2.0. Except acceleration, I didn't feel too much difference(that was a big difference though). I bought 2.0 just because it's good enough for me and I do want to get into trouble. 1.8T is too quick:) Even with my 2.0, I always drive 85 mph on NJ's highway, which has a speed limit only 65 mph. If you live in midwest, maybe the 1.8T is more fun to drive.

    BTW, blue paint only goes with GTI not Golf, I thought.

    Good luck.
  • alfaromeoalfaromeo Posts: 210
    I am pondering the purchase of a GTI, but I read somewhere that the 1.8turbo would be offered with a sport suspension package for the 2001 model run... Can anyone confirm this???

  • mznmzn Posts: 727
    Why not call your insurance company, medical_boy, and see what specifics they will share with you?

  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Yes, the sport suspension will become available for 2001 on the GTI and Jetta 1.8Ts. Read the review of the VW Jetta 1.8T here on Edmund's website. They talk about the sport suspension option.
  • judasjudas Posts: 217
    For what the sport suspension package costs (1000?) I'd be pretty tempted to just buy the regular and let the aftermarket handle all your suspension needs. For that amount of dough, or less, you shouldnt have any problem getting new springs and shocks and probably anti roll bars as well. Or, for some more dough, you could go with an adjustable coil over that would allow you complete tunability, from ride height to stiffness.
  • alfaromeoalfaromeo Posts: 210
    Again, thanks Judas, for your qualified opinion!

    But I must admit, I belong to the 'sucker' crowd who likes to have everything 'standard'. By that I mean that a factory option makes me feel more comfortable than getting it from the after market even if it means getting better equipment at a lower price... Silly eh?

    What justifies this silly standpoint? Mainly, lack of technical understanding I guess... Like, do you have to reinforce the struts on the car if you change the shocks... Also, the belief that the 'aftermarket' is full of crooks (!I am being self-ironic of course!) and most of all, the fear of seeing the VW warranty voided!
    Please, ...short of seeing a shrink, I will listen to all arguments as to why I should join the aftermarket crowd... HELP!
  • judasjudas Posts: 217
    You can change the shocks and springs without changing anything else without worrying about any kind of stress damage or that type of thing. A strut tower brace wouldn't be a bad idea. As far as the warranty goes, you shouldn't have a problem. They'd have to prove that you changing the springs and shocks broke whatever component it is that you're trying to get covered. The only thing I can really think of that they might actually be able to void is any type of squeeks or rattles, as the car will ride stiffer. A lot of the aftermarket is crooks as far as I'm concerned (Don't get me started on K&N drop in's, or bosch +4 or Splitfire spark plugs) but most of the snake oil salesman confine themselves to cheap, cheezy bolt on engine type stuff. Koni is a very well respected suspension company. There are some other good ones out there as well. Neuspeed has a pretty good reputation. Bilstein. I'm sure there are some companies out there selling some garbage suspension components, my advice is, you get what you pay for. If it sounds too good to be true then it probably is.
  • I am interest in buying a new Golf GLS TDI but I have been having some problems with my dealers. I am in sales spending a lot of time on the road. There are five dealers in the cities I work in. All five dealers give me different stories. I was hoping that someone out there could give me some straight answers.

    The last story I got was that VW is moving production of the Golf from Germany to Brazil. The dealer told me that I need to get my golf now because there wouldn't be anymore coming into the states until production was up and going in Brazil. Is there any truth to this story?

    I usually order the cars I buy so I can get exactly what I want. I have had several dealers tell me that I cannot "order" a VW. They tell me I have to pick from what is on the lot or they may be able to trade with some other dealer to get what I am looking for.

    I also do not want the Luxury package on my Golf. Both my wife and I are over 6 feet tall and the sunroof eats up too much headroom. I have looked at maybe 20 Golf GLS TDI's and everyone has the luxury package. The dealers tell me I can't get one with out the Luxury package or that they are extremely rare. If I don't want the luxury package it may take 6 months for one to come into the "system" for me to buy.

    Finally, I usually drive vehicles with a standard transmission. I like the reliability, economy and life that I get from a standard. I typically keep a car for 200,000 mile or more and automatics don't have a reputation for holding up. However, I have been driving my wife's van with an automatic and found that I like it. I sometimes find myself with a cell phone in one hand a map in the other and I find its great not to have to change gears. Also one of my co-worker recently turned over 200,000 miles on his Infinity with an automatic, and another trading in a '96 Caravan with over 150,000 miles. Neither one ever had a transmission problem. I am wondering if I can expect the same life out of VW's automatic in the Golf with a TDI?

    Thanks for any advise you have to offer.
  • mnnmnn Posts: 31
    Bryanjohnfield, I think I can share some of my buying experience with regards to your questions.

    I too, have heard from 3 different dealers that the production for Golf is to be moved to Brazil from mid-May, 2000, that no more German imports would land in North America. I was told that whatever that was out there was the complete stock (German) left, after that would be all Brazilian made. Not sure how much truth that is, but I live in Canada, and if the same stories were being told, maybe it is the truth?!

    I agree with you that it is almost impossible to order a "custom" car with VW. When I bought my 1.8T, I went to 5 different dealerships and none can provide me the exact car that I want. One dealer even said something like "no one would want a car with no package, you have to have something!!". The Luxury package is very popular with dealers because of the alloy wheels, and unfortunately, the alloys comes with the sunroof. As far as I know, all my friends who bought VW ended up getting a car with something that they don't need/want. I have a sunroof in mine but then I am a good 4 inches shorter than you guys that headroom has not been a problem. I suggest you take the car (with the sunroof) for a serious drive and see how it feels. FYI, the "monsoon" sound system is really nothing special. In fact, I find mine worse than the aftermarket Sony that I used to have. Guess it must be the stock speakers and the position of the rear speakers (on the door panel instead of the dash), so you can spare that one if you can. Apart from the packages, there is also the colour. When I was picking my car, I was left with only red and black, so be prepared.

    As far as transmission, I only drive standard so I am afraid I could not help.

    Anyway, good luck.
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