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2011 Hyundai Sonata



  • syitalian25syitalian25 Posts: 303
    Yes, the outside temperature gauge is next to the clock.
  • swingmanswingman Posts: 54
    On my civic, it's just a button press to change cruise control speed. I know I've used cruise control on a couple other cars and all have been a button press. Never had a car that I had to hold down the button to get it to change.

    I think I'd prefer a button press to a button hold but I guess as long as I know what I need to do then it's not a big issue.
  • jsmit86jsmit86 Posts: 116
    In reply to :
    I am the owner of a V6 06 Sonata LX. I am thinking about purchasing a 2011 Limited. My biggest concern is if I will be disappointed with the I4. Any owners of the 06 having bought the 2011 have any comments. I would appreciate your opinions.

    I recently decided to buy a 2011 Limited with the I4. To put this in perspective, my trade-in is a 2003 Infiniti G35 w 265HP. Is the Sonata as fast as that? Of course not, BUT it is plenty quick. I am currently driving a 2010 Sonata V6 Limited as a loaner until my car arrives. It is just slightly faster,but floats more than the 2011.

    I test drove the new 2011's a few times, and I was able to do a high speed acceleration merge from a rolling stop on a local highway. I was very pleasantly surprised by the power. This car is not as fast as my G35, but it is definitely faster than some of my previous V6s including a 1996 Chrysler Concord with 214 HP. I would also say it feel nearly as quick as my '99 300M that had 253HP.

    Before making my final decision, I was close to purchasing a new G37 or an M35. I actually went to the Infiniti dealer with title in hand, ready to purchase the M35, which had a great price. That dealer low balled me my 3K on my trade after assuring me on the phone that they would give me the deal I was looking for. :mad: They had already appraised my car at another location. I walked out due to their BS. On the way home, I passed a gas station that had just changed the price to $3.05 per gallon.

    After giving it some thought, I decided that the 2011 I4 Sonata was the right choice. I will be saving over $17K, and I know that the improved fuel economy will be a nice plus.

    Get behind the wheel and drive the car! I'm betting you will not miss the 6cyl that much.
  • midas69midas69 Posts: 118
    On mine a button push is all that's needed to change the speed. Each push is 1MPH. Just like every other car I've ever owned. If yours requires holding the button I'd get it looked at, something is wrong.
  • midas69midas69 Posts: 118
    I just went from a V6 Camry to the new Sonata. I'd have the same comments. Not was fast, but fast enough. It's got plenty of torque and the 6 speed always gives you a good gear to accelerate with.
  • swingmanswingman Posts: 54
    I think you misread my post.

    It's m6user that has to hold the button. I said on all the cars I've had, it just requires pressing a button.
  • midas69midas69 Posts: 118
    I think you misread my post.

    Yea, I know, but I was too lazy to go back to the original so just hit reply on yours.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,174
    I have an Infiniti, a Toyota Tundra and a Mazda6. It only takes one button push to SET the speed. What I'm talking about is say you set the speed at 60 and a little later decide to move it up to 65. Instead canceling the cruise, speeding up with the throttle and then resetting the cruise, I just push the + button until the speed is 65 and then take my finger off it. It works this way on all three vehicles and always did. To reduce speed I just press the - button until I reach the speed I want it at.

    I think maybe we are talking about different things. One, initial setting of the cruise control and two, adjusting the speed.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,174
    I think we're accomplishing the same thing but just in different ways. Mine may work in 1 push, 1 mph increments. I've just never did it that way.
  • swingmanswingman Posts: 54
    Never tried to push and hold. Might work both ways on all cars.
  • 'I would also say it feel nearly as quick as my '99 300M that had 253HP'.....

    I had a 2001 300M...... best car I ever owned. The x-wife still has it.... 300,000KM and going strong. Only repair has been a flat tire!

    I loved that car.
  • akeiyakeiy Posts: 22

    Currently I have a 05 camry and I am thinking whether I should buy 2011 sonata to replace it. Then I have been to the dealer to test drive the new car and I found there is no big difference for road noise between the two cars. What do you think of it? Any thought will be welcome! Thank you very much!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,242
    With Hyundai (and GM) Push and release gives you 1-2 mph. Push and hold and it accelerates until you release, then holds the speed at which you release.

    BTW, on a Hyundai with a manual transmisison, the cruise is so quick and accurate you can almost drive the car without using the accelerator.
  • ramkatramkat Posts: 23
    edited March 2010
    Apparently there is a risk of deposits forming on the valves of DI engines

    Here is a patent that reduces that. Judging from the intro it is a common problem with DI engines

    I am wondering if that problem has been solved with the Theta II engine?

    Just to reduce the risk of deposits I will continue to use only Shell when I get my Sonata. May also be a good idea to switch to full synthetic oil during the first oil change. Any technical guy that could provide us with some guidance here?
  • 8babies1dog8babies1dog Posts: 122
    I'm a big 3.3L man, but go take a 2011 se out for spin, a little in town a little on the
    hi-way, see what you think. I have the 09/10 SE-v6 love it. Go check the new 11
    out for yourself, a beautiful awesome ride. the build quality is excellent. Then go
    try the rest, you will see.

    Happy Hyundai owner::
  • To clarify, after the speed is set, adjusting with the +/- buttons seems to have little to no effect unless I hold down the button. Most cars I can feel the engine gain power or the car slow down. In the Sonata the speed does not seem to adjust significantly. Maybe because the speedometer has such poor resolution.
  • syitalian25syitalian25 Posts: 303
    I believe each press only adjusts it by 1 mph or so, try pressing it 6-7 times in a row and see if you notice the difference. It also takes a second to register and change the speed.
  • eblue2eblue2 Posts: 8
    Hey Pegasus17, whats your new Indiana dealer? I live here and nobody is giving a decent quote. The best quote I've got is from Chicago. Pls. give me a clue to your dealer.
  • m6userm6user Posts: 3,174
    That's about how all of mine work. After it's set you have to hold the button down for awhile to really get a noticable difference in speed.
  • Friends:
    I am thinking of buying a 2011 Sonata Limited Model (without navigation). I am wondering what will be the best price that I can bargain for this. Anyone got the car below invoice price? Welcome pricing suggestions from anyone who recently bought. Thanks.
  • mikemartinmikemartin Posts: 205
    edited March 2010 - ng=Y

    ZIP CODE 10019 (New York)

    2011 GLS MANUAL
    Savings off MSRP:$2,406

    Savings off MSRP:$2,451

    Savings off MSRP:$2,785

    Savings off MSRP:$3,187

    Savings off MSRP:$3,376
  • ramkatramkat Posts: 23
    edited March 2010
    More info on the problem mentioned above

    "The DI invention concerns an internal combustion engine, especially an Otto engine, with a fuel injector.

    Gasoline engines with direct injection of the fuel into the combustion chamber, i.e., not into the intake port, suffer especially from the problem of the formation of carbon deposits on components. Carbon deposits form especially in the neck region of intake valves. A more exact analysis of how these carbon deposits form leads to the following result: Oil and fuel constituents first form a sticky coating on the components. These constituents are chiefly long-chain and branched-chain hydrocarbons, i.e., the low-volatility components of oil and fuel. Aromatic compounds adhere especially well. This sticky base coating serves as a base for the deposition of soot particles. This results in a porous surface, in which oil and fuel particles in turn become embedded. This process is a circular process, by which the coating thickness of the carbon deposits continuously increases. Especially in the area of the intake valves, the deposits originate from blowby gases and from internal and external exhaust gas recirculation, and in this process, the blowby gases and the recirculated exhaust gas come into direct contact with the intake valve.

    Especially in the area of the neck of the intake valves, excessive carbon deposits have extremely negative effects for the following reasons: In the case of Otto direct injectors, the successful ignition of the stratified charge depends to a great extent on correct development of the internal cylinder flow, which ensures reliable transport of the injected fuel to the spark plug to guarantee reliable ignition at the spark plug. However, a coating of carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve may interfere so strongly with the tumble flow that ignition failures may occur there as a result. Under certain circumstances, however, ignition failures can lead to irreversible damage of a catalytic converter installed in the exhaust gas tract for purifying the exhaust gas. Furthermore, the coating of carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve causes flow resistance, which can lead to significant performance losses due to insufficient cylinder filling, especially in the upper load and speed range of the internal combustion engine. In addition, the carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve may prevent correct valve closing, which leads to compression losses and thus sporadic ignition failures. This in turn could irreversibly damage the catalytic converter. There is the potential for small particles to break away from the coating of carbon deposits in the neck region of the intake valve and get into the catalytic converter. These hot particles may then cause secondary reactions and corresponding local damage of the catalytic converter. For example, a hole may be burned in the structure of the catalytic converter.

    Globular deposits are found especially on the valve stem downstream from a partition plate in the intake port. Due to the dripping of high-boiling hydrocarbons from the partition plate towards the valve neck or valve stem, globular carbon deposits eventually form there by the sequence of events explained above. These deposits on the valve stem can result in flow deficits due to undesired swirling and turbulent flow around the globular carbon deposits. This may persistently interfere with the formation of stable tumble flow from cycle to cycle.

    A possible solution would be to keep these sources of deposits away, for example, from the intake valve, by completely eliminating exhaust gas recirculation and the introduction of blowby gases into the intake port. However, with the combustion behavior of modern reciprocating internal combustion engines, at least external exhaust gas recirculation and the introduction of blowby gases into the intake port are absolutely necessary for reasons of emission control and fuel consumption, so that this approach is not possible. "
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    "Yes, the outside temperature gauge is next to the clock"

    Thanks for the clarification.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    I assume you have an opinion on DFI. What is it?

    DFI has been around a long time, mostly on higher end cars. Do you know how it's working for them?
  • ramkatramkat Posts: 23
    There is no option. If you buy a 2011 Sonata you have DI :)

    Yes,. DI has been around and the above quote is a response to problems they have been experiencing. Honda apparently dropped their DI because of that. If you do a google you will find some discussions going on about this.(VW, Audi etc) Some engines are already badly build up at 40K. :surprise: To clear it means opening the engine and manually removing it with the help of some chemicals (i.e $$$) There are patents out their to reduce this - some more costly and/or effective that others. The reason why I posted this is to try and find out what Hyundai did about the deposit build up in their design.
  • lancep97lancep97 Posts: 36
    opinion, not option :)
  • I have had my 2011 Sonata Limited (w/o Nav) since Feb13. Drove 150 miles to get it in the black on black that we wanted. This is our fourth Sonata. Our 2009 GLS was totaled in an accident, and were down to one vehicle for three months waiting for the 2011.This is also our first Sonata with an immediate warranty issue. The turn signal on the right side passenger mirror has significant moisture beaded inside. Has anyone else experienced this problem? We also received the recall notice on the locks, but we are not idiots (cannot imagine holding down lock while trying to open door) and prefer to leave the locks alone rather than have them tear the door apart. BTW, is it better to take the car to a local dealer for warranty work or to the dealer from which we purchased the vehicle?
    P.S. The 2011 is significantly better in handling and in many other ways as well. The only negative is over concrete interstates with expansion joints it is REALLY noisy and rough. The 2009 was much quieter.
    PP.S. I have enjoyed reading all the posts (lurking for the past two months) . Thanks for so much good info.
  • ramkatramkat Posts: 23
    My apologies lancep97 , i really need to get that eyetest done :blush:
  • syitalian25syitalian25 Posts: 303
    well good thing for that 100,000 mile powertrain warranty then, just in case :P
  • rico84rico84 Posts: 7
    Wait, how is he breaking forum rules?
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